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My talon has a hard time getting into first and reverse

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Radclifftalon

Probationary Member
13
0
Apr 2, 2011
Radcliff, Kentucky
i have the act 2600lb clutch in the car. When i try to get into reverse, the car grinds to get into gear. When im at a red light or a stop sign, the car will hardly shift into first. I replaced the slave cylinder last week, and made a few adjustments in the clutch pedal. What else could be causing the problem?
 
Is the problem only happening in 1st and reverse? If so it is probably not a clutch issue. Have a friend step on the clutch a couple times while you watch the slave to see if the rod is extending all the way. If it is not, then you have either air in the system or a master problem.
But if the problem only happens in 1st and reverse than its more likely to be a synchro issue.
 
Are you sure the clutch is adjusted correctly. Jacks transmission has a video on youtube to guide you through the process. I would start there.
 
Yep, you definitely need to consult this video:YouTube - Proper Clutch Adjustment

Unfortunately, your pedal assembly is probably worn, and if they havent ever been replaced, your clutch master and slave cylinders arent going to handle the 2600 long. Is your clutch engaging directly off the floor instead of in the middle of the pedal travel as it should? If you dont fix this immediately, you will eventually kill your synchro rings and need a transmission rebuild.

Is the problem only happening in 1st and reverse? If so it is probably not a clutch issue. Have a friend step on the clutch a couple times while you watch the slave to see if the rod is extending all the way. If it is not, then you have either air in the system or a master problem.
But if the problem only happens in 1st and reverse than its more likely to be a synchro issue.

The reason this is happening when youre trying to grab 1st and reverse is because the vehicle is stopped and your clutch is unable to release the transmission and allow it to slow down independant of the engine; this is less of an issue when the vehicle is moving at speed, however, even though it allows you to shift (for now, at least) you are causing undue, excessive wear on the synchros and they will fail.
 
You should always adjust the pedal when doing a clutch install. If that's not the case then question two- did you replace the pivot ball and fork? If not, 9/10 times you'll be pulling the tranny to replace it.
 
i guess im going to take it to ammco in the morning, hopefully i can get all this bs out of the way and get back to enjoying my car.
 
One easy way to check for a worn ball/fork: look down at the front of the transmission, where the slave is bolted up, and you will see where the fork comes out of the trans. Grab the fork and pull it toward the passenger side of the car and when it stops, note the position of the fork. Is it centered, is it angled slightly to the driver side of the car, or is the fork angled toward the passenger side? Ideally, the fork should be angled just slightly to the driver side; centered is okay, but the fork is definitely worn if its angled to the passenger side of the car. Next, check the pedal assembly for wear. This is very easily done: push the clutch to the floor, let it up, then grab the pedal and pull up. If it moves up even a little, the assembly needs a rebuild and will never function properly until this is done. I mention this because most transmission shops will not know how or even TO check these things and will place blame on the clutch/transmission instead of finding the true cause of the problem. The video I posted is comprised of multiple parts, detailing pedal adjustment, worn pedal assembly, fork, ball and the effects of a dragging clutch. Just give the labor guys at the shop the instructions Ive given here and they will find the issue. Hope you get her rolling soon.:thumb:
 
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