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my first port job.

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Yuck is what I see.. But hey, We have all been there...
Bro. If I was you I would have went to a junk yard and bought a Cracked chevy 305 V8 Head (10$) and started grinding on that. Before porting anything on your car.
You have 8 ports to destroy, Err Learn how to Use the tools before getting into your Car parts.

Highly reccomend you go and buy some Flapper wheels and clean that mess up! Get a couple 60 grits and some 240's. They come in All sizes. Get some 1" flappers..
You can get them at Any auto store, Home depot, Lowes Etc....

Better yet Buy this Kit and do it right from the start...
 
you need to spend some time on smoothing it out

not bad for first time but make it look more like....

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this is what i did on the intake side
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oh this is not something you want to rush, just spend time on it, make it look nice
 
thanks for the pictures APEXVIII its a good example of what i need to follow... i know mine looks sh***y but ill try to smooth it out now that i got the hard part out of the way.
 
just spend time, this is what i started with, matched to the 7cm gasket
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Then i used Carbide burr's until it looked like this
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until it looked like this, then i modes on to the 80 grit flapper wheels
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a lot of cracks LOL this was on my friends 14b LOL
then i moved to the 120 grit

which ended up with a finish about like this
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these are what the bits look like
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left is double cut(<--what i used leaves a finer finish), middle is single cut, and right is for aluminum metals


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Flapper wheels
 

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And if you wanna go gangbusters, after the flapwheel, you can hand-sand up to 600grit and get your OCD thrills...

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thanks for the pictures APEXVIII its a good example of what i need to follow... i know mine looks sh***y but ill try to smooth it out now that i got the hard part out of the way.

Here is a quicky port job. I use an electric die grinder which I prefer much more than an air die grinder. The trick is not to spend too much time with the carbide burr in any one place, but to rotate it around to get a nice smooth material removal. I then try to leave enough material so I can switch to a stone wheel and finish things off. Finally the 80 grit sanding flapper will polish things up nicely. Anything beyond that is for show. I got a few deep scratches that I didn't detect until after polishing. What I would do next time is lay some "Dykem red" into the porting area after the stone wheel and check for deep gouges. I probably could have switched from a tree shaped stone wheel to a rounded wheel which probably would have eliminated the deeper scratches. I'm not that anal though.
 

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You definitely want to spend some more time smoothing everything out.

And if you wanna go gangbusters, after the flapwheel, you can hand-sand up to 600grit and get your OCD thrills...

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Damn beautiful.
 

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ive already started on the sanding .... its already looking better... but quick question what if i left it as it was? does it affect performance since i ported it to begging with?:confused:
dumb questions i know but i lack the knowledge.
 
All that rough surface creates turbulence which hinders/restricts the flow not increase it.
That is why its called port & polish:thumb:
 
I know this seems like a dumb question. But, How do you guys get way down deep inside the housing? I have a die grinder myself, but it seems like getting it down into a thinner area would be harder to port the inner parts of the turbo/manifold/etc. And do you guys clean all the black off so it's an easier job?
 
You are leaving the grinder in one spot too long. Make circles and keep the bit moving. You'll get low and high spots that are impossible to remove.
 
My Harbor Freight $47 die grinder with 2" burr shanks was able to reach "deep enough". And a Dremel and flapwheel can reach in just as far. You don't want to grind down into where the "L" shape of the volute is unless it's just to take the casting texture off with a flapwheel. Just blend the major porting into the stock shape smoothly.

As was said, don't linger in one spot with the grinder. I'd work from outside to in sweeping smoothly side-to-side, then shift over a bit and repeat...all the way around. Don't go too deep before shifting to a different section. Hit all the spots taking off a bit, then repeat until you've taken what you want out of the housing.

When you get the shape close to where you want it, start taking off the high spots to get it fairly smooth.

Then I went at it with 80 grit flap wheel bits on my Dremel. If you can get coarser ones (60 grit) online, it'll make the next phase go faster, but 80 grit worked for me. Just work your way around swinging around the inlet back and forth, in and out, shaving down the lumps and smoothing out the deeper scratches.

After that, I went at it with my fingers and sand paper starting at 100 grit, working up to 600 grit dry then wet. As it got smoother, I'd notice a couple of spots that I couldn't see before, and I'd hit them with the flapwheel again.
 
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