My custom holset install - (The H1-3558x), **underway currently**

[BoostedBeaver]

Thanks for the log. It is much different looking at them in this format and takes some getting accustomed too.

I fixed a boost leak I had a week or so ago and got a surprise. I run a solenoid that controls boost through link. Anyway, it is indexed by gear and rpm. The table covers 1st, 2nd, and 3rd. I had this table set up to produce 30lbs. I went for little ride and when I got back, I hit 39.4lbs of boost. Do not know if the leak was that big or the air is that much more dense but the extra load of 4th gear in low rpms and pulling from a 3rd gear table was a major contributor. FWIW there is another fail safe table in place, but it was not dialed in and the error correction was not put to use. This was only for a very quick second. The BOV was fluttering at this time so I was taking it easy. Here is the screen shot.

FWIW, this is an HX35.

Robert

 

[turboglenn]

interesting..... I've een having some overboost issues with the MBC and this turbo, it just can make PR so fast i think the crap MBC can't hang, I miss my profec, need to hook it back up.

just call that a "good faith log" i'll get some ones up that have some seriouse pulls on them sooon. tonight was my first real time to even tune on the thing. i need a set of plugs bad thugh, from an over rich warm up and bad 10k pot i usefor global fuel trimming that was adding 11% fuel across the board thee are fouled out and keeps shutting a cylinder down during high boost and even misses bad at cruise a lot of times unles i run closed loop long enough to burn the plug clean

I took m MSD off to sell it but might need to hook it back up, i'm so tired of havingblow out when either a tad rich or because of some temporary rich loading up, seems everytime i go up in injector sizze and have to start tuning again i go through 2 sets of NGK's. I need to go back to a richer plug as well, these bR8ES's are j8ust too cold i think

 

[dragonov_elite]

#$%^ I need to get my clutch figured out so I can share my results with you guys and compare my WH1C to the H1C.

 

[turboglenn]

#$%^ I need to get my clutch figured out so I can share my results with you guys and compare my WH1C to the H1C.

well, what are you waiting on??&%$#^!!!!! j/k, but it would be cool to see your results, i'd be very interested to see how the two stack up.. gotta remember though my turbo is closer to an hx35/40 hybrid than it is to a regular h1c because of the upgraded compressor wheel and housing.

I'm really hoping to get to the dyno still, I just need to make the time to finish sorting out the tune so that when i get there i'm solely fine tuning and extracting power instead of working with AFR's that are so left field the car will barely run at WOT under some boost levels. Rightnow my map is just my 1000cc injector map with30% fuel pulled everywhere and some light tuning at cruise and idle. I literally haven't even touched boost levels above 5-7psi yet, but i have less than an hour total tuning time in it just because the weather has been so cold and mostly involving snow so trying to get anything down as far a real tune is concerned is just about impossible anyway.

Soon though i hope, we will just have to see what the weather holds and go from there

 

[sk8freak8989]

I am also going to be using an H1 series turbo. I have a H1e that will be using the bolton housing. I hope my setup will do as good as yours.

 

[nfernotalon]

Hey Glenn awesome thread as always. Im going to be running an h1c set up soon it's sitting on my kitchen table. I'm running a single walbro a 255 and was planning on going to a dual walbro in tank set up. I saw that's what you were using how are you doing on fuel from the dual intank set up?

 

[Dyesuperman]

Hey Glenn awesome thread as always. Im going to be running an h1c set up soon it's sitting on my kitchen table. I'm running a single walbro a 255 and was planning on going to a dual walbro in tank set up. I saw that's what you were using how are you doing on fuel from the dual intank set up?

You should be fine with a single rewired 255 for the h1c

 

[turboglenn]

I am also going to be using an H1 series turbo. I have a H1e that will be using the bolton housing. I hope my setup will do as good as yours.

I'm sure using it in a mitsu style bolt on housing you'll be very satisfied from what i've read, as for the t3 botl on housing from Tim's i've read a lot of mixed reviews on spool times, most being relatively laggy in comparison to mine (which mine borders along the lines of what the mitsu bolt on housings are seeing)

Hey Glenn awesome thread as always. Im going to be running an h1c set up soon it's sitting on my kitchen table. I'm running a single walbro a 255 and was planning on going to a dual walbro in tank set up. I saw that's what you were using how are you doing on fuel from the dual intank set up?

Well, When i was on dual pumps i never had a shortage of fuel like i did on the single, but i also upgraded the entire feed from tank to rail (went -6 push lock) at the same time i instlaled the 2nd pump.

now i'm running a single pump because of space limitations in the hanger of the AWD tank and i'm still not having any shortages but i haven't pushed the boost or duty cycles yet. And from what i've read the singe should be adequate for the HP goals i have of 525-550hp, but i don't have solid data to back tht up only "hearsay" from the forum.. but i have found a way to install the 2nd pump within the baffling but not in the hanger so that i can leave the sending unit operational and not have to rig anything up that isn't what i would consider reliable..

i have to say though from doing duals on a friends car that's in the 750-800hp range, dual parrallel pumps seem to be the way to go for max flow compared to an secondary inline pump outisde the tank (it's a diual in tank AWD but we removed the hanger side sending unit and replaced the other side with a FWD unit to keep the gauge on track as long as the siphon i working correctly (which it was)

Overall i think my original issue of running out of pump on both the 720's and 1000's on e85 was solely due to the OEM feed line because i'm flowing a lot more fuel than previousely on a single pump (by far) So like i said i think most of the issue was undersized feed line instead of the pump which lead me to starting the dual pump project to begin with.

Also since my fuel needs aren't much over what one 255hp is supposedly capable of i MIGHT just add an inline pump being that i don't need anywhere near what maxing out tht combo would provide.

one thing to keep in mind on muysetup though is that my compressor wheel is from an hx40 so my turbo is only an H1c at the center section (CHRA) and other than that it's closer to an HX35/40 hybrid

 

[Yamahaulin]

I had no problem fitting my full blown dual intank setup in the tank with sending units and baffling and I'm awd. Are u trying to mod a stock hanger?

 

[nfernotalon]

You should be fine with a single rewired 255 for the h1c

Yea that's what I figured for 91 which is all we can get from the pump here. I am going to be running e85 though there's a station right down the street from my house.

Glenn- so it looks like it's worth upgrading that stock fuel line and might as well do the rail. I'd just hate to pay for a tune and dyno session only to find out I'm out of fuel. Especially when it's so cheap and easy to do the dual intank set up on a 1g. Thanks again Glenn.

 

[turboglenn]

YAmahaulin, I was thinking about modding a stock hanger but came up with a much cleaner and easier method that mounts the pump intside the tank it's self not using a hanger
. I'm gonna use bulkhead fittings and mount the pump just outside of where the hanger sits with a bulkhead threaded through the top of the tank body but still close enough that the sock and pump will sit in the bottom of the baffle still

nfernotalon.....Actually the rail is good for over 600hp, so i'd leave that alo0ne, I think the 1g rail is better than the 2g or at least it's easier to get the injector plugs on but some where i've read that it flows better than a 2g rail but again i have no concrete evidence on that

NOW for the bad news The holset is already showing some journal bearing wear, the thrust is PERFECT, but the side to side movement in the shaft is just a tad over spec and more than what it had going in. I picked up a rebuild kit today and have arranged for a balancing of the rotating assembly once i get it apart today as well. That's the only thing i didn't do on this build and i'm sure that's what is causing the wear already sioce the thrust is fine which shows oil pressure should be good to go or there would be some in and out play from the boost levels i've been pushing

I got the comressor wheel as a "component balanced" unit but accoridng to holset literature the turbine in this was balance WITH the old compressor wheel as a complete unit. The shop is going to balance the turbine with "component balancing" and then check the entire assembly to see how it is going, being that there's less than 500 miles on this turbo and the play went from feeling fresh rebuilt to being excessive (feels like the play a ball bearing turbo would run) so i'm gonna re build it today and have the balanving done today as well and then i'm going to increase the oil flow with a bigger banjo bolt (smallest restriction in my oil feed) and then i'll post the results from there

I said i'd report the findings both good and bad, well, i've shown the good and now we';re at the bad unfortunately

i'll update as i go

 

[Dyesuperman]

Sad to hear man, hopefully the wheels not being balanced together was the issue and not your oil feed setup. How much is it going to cost you for the balancing if you don't mind me asking?

Also, I noticed mine seems to have a little shaft play after running it a little while but not sure if it is just normal or what. Could be the fact that I checked it when it had been sitting for a while so no oil was on the bearings either. I was looking on the cumminsforums and everyone on there it was normal to have some shaft play and unless it is touching the housing not to even worry about it. Found that odd but they have more experience with holsets than we do since it is their stock turbo

 

[turboglenn]

Dyesuperman... the hoslets have a limit of .020" side to side shaft play, I would say mine was at about .025" today when checked, it would have lived but i'd rather know that things are exactly within spec so that when i'm checking on the life of the turbo i know i have a good baseline to start with... after running mine a bit it loosened up to show about the same amount of play you'd find in a ball bearing turbo(they have more play both side to side and in and out compared to a JB unit but it's because of their design, BB units are said to not matter on play as long as no wheels can touch the housing andthat's from garretts website)

Great news, the wear was not from me, and was actually there but coked oil caused the bearing to feel tight, then running it and cycling it hot with the synthetics i run had cleaned the turbo out and let the play show up

it was a victim of too many hot shut downs accoridng to the place balancing it for me and said there has been no lubrication issues with it (i felt the same but having them back me is always good)

I go get the wheels back at 2pm (2 hours) and will get to put it back together and back on the car... I bead blasted the red paint off it so that i can stillwork on polishing it one day if not today while waiting

here's some basic pics of the rebuild so far, still waiting to put the ring on the turbine when i get it back and torque the comp wheel on (i'm having the diesel shop torque the wheel since they have the realli nice small torque wrench that's super accurate

first pic is the CHRA with new bearings after having been cleaned

second pic is the thrust bearing and washer installed

third is the thrust collar with nw ring (old ring sitting on backing plate for illustration)

fourth is the new backing plate bolts with lock washers instead of the metal plates you bend to hold the bolts from backing out

fifth is the oil slinger which is kinda unique on the holset h1c so i thught i'd toss a pic up of that and the 6th pic is shoing the assembly ready and waiting on the turbine shaft/wheel

and the last pic just shows the original 50mm by 83mm comp wheel compared to the new 8 blade 58mm by 83mm comp wheel i'm now running on it bigga is betta

another thing that struck me as unique and something i like about the holsets is that the area in the backing plate for the thrust collar and ring is a pressed in brass or bronze section where as garretts use plain old aluminum that's part of the backing plate and wears out easily when something goes wrong, this just shows the cool little things about the hoslets that make them "diesel tough"

the "line" on the top thrust bearing bolt hole that looks like a crack is actually some cotton from a cue-tip that i used to clean the threads out so the loc-tite would have a clean and dry surface to adhere to...... Also notice the HUGe oil return area in the front of the CHRA, again if you've ever seen a garrett unit this thing makes the garrett look like a toy

15 more minites and i can go get my freshly balanced turbine and compressor wheel and put this bee-yatch back together and in the car, the weather is also getting ncier out (almost 40* F) so i might get some good logs this evening

UPDATE ON BALANCING________________________________________________

Well the turbine was within spec and again the guy assured me the wear was from previouse use and that i just loosened up a carboned up turbo that already was worn but had just gotten "sticky" from sitting off an engine for a few years

He went ahead and balanced the unit to as best as he could get it (to the lowest end of the spec for allowances or something he said) but whatever the scale was on grams per something he took it from 15 which was below the 28max allowable and got it down to within 2-3grams for the complete unit, and since my oiling was fine i'm gonna go ahead and keep running it like i have. now it's just time to bolt it back on and get to boostin and logging, the weather is nice today and the roads are getting really dry and traction friendly so it should be a fun evening

EDIT; 4:05PM_______

Turbo is back assembled and installed.. I blasted the left over red paint off it and it looks better and the bearings are all now inperfect condition along with new rings/seals and the rest of what's involved in a turbo rebuild

So now the total investment in this turbo aside from the initial trading is now 400 bucks +/- 10 bucks, and everything in the turbo is new/rebuilt..new compressor housing and wheel, complete rebuild kit, the turbine was polished, bead blasted and rebalanced today so it's pretty much a "new turbo" (since a lot of "new turbos" are rebuilt cores anyway) and it's still got less invested than a standard journal bearing t3/t4 hybrid.. Give it i did do a lot of machining and such myself that others would have had to pay for as well as the rebuild for those not confident in doing itthemselves, but hell this is one badd ass budget turbo IMO, i couldn't be more proud of the final product to be honest

The initial "trade value" of trading off the journal bearing to4z/t67/to4r (many names for same turbo config) also yielded me a rebuildable 50 trim (that i've rebuilt already) and some 1600cc injectors (which i wanted to get badly, my plan was to sell the 67mm for injectors and to buy an hx35 but i came out one better )

Then i traded my griffin intercooler with sparco end tanks (the old popular configuration for GN's, RX-7's, SVO mustangs and the like) plus a forge BOV and got a Greddy/trust supra/skyline FMIC core that supports 1150HP with 1psi pressure drop at like 1500CFM, and let me tell ya this thing cools air.. on my old core after a few 1-3gear pulls i would heat soak and get temps in the 150* F range atthe TB (after the FMIC) but with this unit i'm not heat soaking at all really, i'm doing repetitive pulls and still seeing at worst 20* F over ambient temps, and on the first 1-3 pull from normal driving i usually only see about a 10* F or less increase over ambient, and i still haven't cut out enough of the bumper and bumper cover to expose any more of the unit than i had showing on my last FMIC, so i think i could gain some more cooling there..

My friends WRX with VF34 and a roughly the same size core taht was also a greddy was seeing temps that were dead at and sometimes maybe 3* over ambient on hard pulls and i was jealouse but i think i'm finally getting matched up to that This year in trades has been great to the DSM.. I literally dealt with a lot of BS like broken timing belts, frozen calipers and such but all in all i converted to AWD for under 200 cash + trades of parts i had sitting, then have no more than 450 dollars in the new FMIC and holset upgrade (and have 2 nice turbos to sell still but gotta add rebuilt kit prices to those), But when ya think about it going AWD and getting my turbo/FMIC combo i'd been wanting for years now all for under 750 bucks total cash at the MAXIMUM is not a bad set of trades, swaps and labor input for the results i'm now getting (what out talon dave here i come...J/K i can't catch ya if i wanted to but it does make for a nice wish )

 

[BoostedBeaver]

Well Glenn things seem to be coming together nicely. Some traction on the roads will make for some fun driving and maybe you can get that much needed tuning in. Not really much to say, just wanted to bump this in case you had another update.

Robert

 

[nfernotalon]

Where did you get that oil return fitting for the holset? I'm still not sure how to go about it might just go with a 2g return line.

 

[turboglenn]

Well Glenn things seem to be coming together nicely. Some traction on the roads will make for some fun driving and maybe you can get that much needed tuning in. Not really much to say, just wanted to bump this in case you had another update.

Robert

just took it for a spin to check that all systems are a go for regular use and so far so good I turned the boost down but i'm still sideways on better roads and better weather at only 22psi in second . things are coming along nicely i'm very pleased.

Where did you get that oil return fitting for the holset? I'm still not sure how to go about it might just go with a 2g return line.

That oil return line is just one for a garrett T3 center section, I have several of them and you can get them from ATP turbo cheap, then it just has a fittingg fro ATP screwed into it that was the largest of the few i had for ID.

From there i have my 2g return line cut in half and a piece of rubber hose connecting them (it's good hose though, has held up for over 10 years, got it from a tractor trailer place that sells all the silicone hose by the foot and such)

but what i'm running is what some others have ran and basically what you'll probably end up with as it's the easiest to put together, and i have no issues with return oiling while feeding from the OFH after my mods for pressure (PLUS it doesn't cost damn near 100+ dollars to build like making one from all -16 fittings and the trouble of pulling thepan and welding into it as well)

bbbupdate on oil pressure

I had changed the oil fresh the last when i modded the OFH and my pressures were hiting 75psi and falling to 72 after the valve opened. Now i'm getting a really linear base of 30psi at 1000-1500 RPM and it's climbing only to about 68psi by redline (figured brand new oil was holding a little higher and i was right now that it's a week later and the oil has some miles on it) This is very good news IMO, just more assurance that i won't see smoke rolling out the holset anytime soon

 

[turboglenn]

well, if it isn't one thing its another , I'm not sure wether it's a bad seal on one ofthe pipe thread fittings at the turbo or if the line has developed a small hole from being right up against' the down pipe but some where inmy oil feedthere's a slow leak.. I can't find it with the car running and me under it but i can smell oil after a hard pull and find evidence that it has leaked a little it atthe line (drops on the DP burning off)

I've re-routed the line as far away from exhaust parts as i can and am watching it closely, but it diens't seem to leak until i get the RPM's way up in the rev range where oil pressures are at their highest. So for now i've just got to clean the line and constantly watch for where the oil starts to develope.

it's not a bad leak at all or anything that will cost flow to the turbo, but it is annoying :/

also, and i think this might be from oil on the alt. but the battery light started flashing on and off last night and after an hour or so driving it stopped all together.. it did it three times today but no more than that.. i have a lifetime warranty on the saturn alt, so i'm just gonna swap it out for a new one either way and go from there

 

[turboglenn]

Well, the oil leak ended up being a combo of one of the fittings at the turbo and the oil line fitting at the feed on the OFH, each one only drips a tad but enough to be annoying. since they only drip once i get high in the revsand get the OP up i have to deal with the smell of synthetic 5w30 burning off the DP.

I had the old starter i'd rebuilt 3 times finally bite the dust yesterday too but with a lifetime warranty replacement for only 75 bucks i won't have to worry about that again (getting the start tune right on 20*F and below temps can put some wear on starters )

turbo is still performing awesome, yesterday was the first time i had dry and warm enough roads to actually feel the pull on this thing in 1st and 2nd and i have to say i'm very impressed, It pulls like a large turbo up top and spools like something much smaller in the low end.. I felt as if i should shift around 7200 RPM but it was like there was an extra boost inflow and the turbo continued to pull straight past 8k RPM as if there was nothing to stop it from going further. I'm relaly impressed with the holsets and as long as i don't have any troubles with this one over an extended period of time i think i've foidn my turbo of choice.

I'v egot roughly 800 miles on this thing by now and i'm still loving it and it still continues to impress with every change in boost or each time i push it further in the RPM range or change the tune to better meet it's airflow.

I"m still super rich landing in the 10.8 - 11:1 ranges under wot (shooting for high 11's low 12's for AFR) I was having trouble tuning because my knob that dials in global fueling on the fly went bad adding 11% fuel everywhere when it felt like it so that is disabled for now while i finish the tune and find a replacement knob (0-5k Ohm) to take it's place.

I cna't think of much else to add aside form trying to get some good logs when the weather cooperates enough to permit some 1-2-3 pulls for me to post (once the AFR's are proper as well)

Wednesday i have a lot of driving to do going to my doctor and gettingmy meds from the pharmacy so i'll hope that the weather holds and I'm able to get some logs then.. This is the ONE time i wish i had a MAF metere just so i could post what kinda airlfow i'm seeing in lb/min, but i uaully judge that by figuring in AFR"s and IDC's based on injector size to come up with a figure.. Right now at only 23psi this turbo is pulling better than the 57 trim did at roughly 28 psi, and still with a better spool

To be honest at this point i think i chould have went with the 60mminducer wheel and been just fine but when i ordered the one i have i had imagined the spool would have been much slower due to my home made turbine housing and the odd matching of wheels on the thing but so far so good and i can't comaplain a bit except for about the oil leaking which is at most slightly aggrivating

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

Sounds good Glenn! Glad to hear most everything is working out well for you. And yeah, I hear you on the airflow thing. Hopefully it's nice enough to get a couple logs tomorrow when you're out and about. I'll be looking forward to another update.

 

[turboglenn]

WEll, one thing that made a HUGE difference and I didn't even touch the MBC was getting rid of the small "spectre" filter and upgrading to a nice large 4" K&N, the spool, power and added boost all spoke for themselves, just proves a damn good filter is nothing to scoff at..

going back to EBC today, this MBC crap is just too finicky for my tastes

I also got to mount the gauge for the turbo's oil pressure in the cabin tonight, it's nice having real tiem data as to what's going on....the leak is at the large 3/8th pipe fitting at the turbo and sadly i can't get in there to tighten it with anything i have even a crows foot so it will drip slowly untill i have a need to remove it again (to polish the comp cover that is )

since the rebuilt the turbo has not developed any more play and i've beat it extra hard on extra miles just to be sure, glad to say the previouse damage was from it's former life on a case tractor

Not sure if i mentioned it but my alternator started randomely flashing the battery light the otther day with no ryme or reason but it was loosing voltage whenit would do it (lwould last a few seconds tops), i was guessing it was from oil on the alt. and i was correct, a partial can of electrical cleaner and the problem was solved

i do either need to go back to my MSD unit i removed to sell or at least get new plugs and wires ASAP beacuse i can't keep from blowing out spark at even 25psi lately (seems every 2nd-3rd run i have to lift because it's just sputtering and loosing boost from missing so bad) i"m gonna run to hotter plugs being that the E85 burns cooler, and since the 1600's tend to load up the plugs some hotter ones will help to stay burned clean better as well

I've got a list of things i'm going to work at tomorrow to improve, power, reliability and consistancy.

Things like improving crank venting, opening up below the filter and blocking it off for cool air only,, going back to EBC from MBC, ADdding the water injection back in both pre-turbo and maybe pre-FMIC, work on getting my 2nd fuel pumpback up and in service, replace a defective trim knob for global fueling on the fly on my haltech, and do something about my ignition... I lowred the fuel pressure today from 43psi base to 36base (no vacum) and things got better, not to just finish things up a bit

 

[BoostedBeaver]

Glenn I had the same blowout issues at about 23psi. I had new magnacore wires, new BPR7es plugs gaped accordingly, good coil, good transistor, etc. The solution was so simple, that I was amazed. Go pick up some BR7es plugs and give them a shot. Long story short, the projected plug blew out around 23psi and the non-projected plug held 40 the other night without blowing out. These non-projected plugs hold 30-32 every time I drive it and I have not had any issues since the change. This is with a slightly smaller gap, but almost just as large.

I have comparison pics and can post them when I get home if you would like. I may have posted a thread on this, but I am not sure. Let me do some digging and see what I can find.

Robert

 

[turboglenn]

i'm notrunning protruded plugs, I'mrunning BR8ES IIRC, but something tells me I asked for 7's last time but idon't think they had them. these plugs are fouled and shot from having WAY too righ a mixture when ifirst put the 1600's in and flooded the engine a few times anyway, i'm sure fresh plugs will cure it.

I justmiss running the MSD becausei could gap the plugs at .028" and still run 30psi, now on stock coils ihave to gap themdown to like .019:

I've been having boostcontrol issues, the MBC iwas using either let mebe at 25psi or WAY over30psi(not good )

So today i took industrial solenoid and played with different ways of setting up it's 3 ports to work with my pro-fecB. HOpe todosome testing tonight.


One thing i must say is this thing even at only spring pressure of 21 psi,it's a damn monster breaking tires loose all over,and getting WELL past the 60MPH roadsIwasmerging onto before i could even think tomy self :hey i'mgoing too fast"

I found my oil leak at the turbo..THe Set screw I used toseal off one end of the double male pipe threaded T(has female in center where i put the feed) well that screw is leaking under higher oil pressure: (looks like nexttimeit's out I either replace it with a regular copper male tofemale 90* coupler or weld over the area with the set Scrrew.

Either way it doesn't leakfast, just annoyingly so. And iwill get it fixed soon(wish I could rech the TIGdown in there )

UPDATE: Bought some BR7ES plugs tonight

but i decided to go back to side gapping and see if it would helpon an OEM ignition

 

[turboglenn]

I have the leak fixed at the oil feed at last!!!!!! I had to put a SSclutch line in today becuase the fitting at the master (the OEM one) was leaking bad and i was sick of clutch issues so while i had it apart ipulledthe manifold and turbo and welded up the area that was blocked with the set screw originially in my fitting i made,that stopped the leak completely

I took it around the block and everything was perfect, no oil smell no drips and a perfect clutch again after having it get air in it today..

one thing i will recomend on clutch line building is use -3 line.. I had a -4 andcouldn't bleed it to save my live (putover a quart of fluid through it and no luck) well when i was getting a fitting at the local speed shop they said they can't get the -4 complete lines to bleed with out vacum bleeding them PERIOD, so imadeitfromold -3 stuff i had and it had pressure on the first bleed fromalmosta dead empty system, and within 5 minutes it was perfect and works great

It's really nice not having the turbo drip, left every where i park, not to mention the constant smell after i would get on it especially(it was embarrasing at lights thinkgin that the people around me are looking at me thinking "what a piece of sh*t"

Also, I swapped from a banjo bolt at the OFH to a 3/8 NPT to-4 with the 90* angle on it (like the ones everybody sells) got it for 5 bucks locally and actually using that instead of the bajo that was a restrictor due to it's hole sizes i gained oil pressure to get me in a much better range for really high boost.

I'm still running 25-30 at idle but instead of the 56-58psi i've been seeing at redline i'm now seeing 65psi which to me couldn't be any better, under the max but high enough that it can helpsupport much higher thrust loads should i push the turbo that far (which i doubt but it's better safe than sorry)

I have converted all the camera footage, but agian i was in a rush and forgot the power supply for the laptop so logs weren't an option for me today and i'm running pigrich at 10.8 to 1 and a best of 11.2:1

I also finished getting my new boost control solenoid setup and perfected the boostranges by changing the vent hole size from a .022 down to a .018 (smallbut made a nice 2psi difference) now the profec is also acting as a safety feature since at it's highest setting it's pushing just at 30psi till redline (and that's all i want for now) hell the car is insane at 25psi roasting 1st gear on dry pavement with weather in the low 50's today so i know it' wasn't a traction issue from ambient conditions

the new FMIC is still justpleasing till no end..after repeated pulls through 1st to 3rd the MOST I saw was going from a 45* average to a 54* peak, I just couldn't heat soak it to get any hotter than that and the car is loving it,I have my J&S setup kinda sensitive and there wasn't a trace of knock on the monitor where as with the old FMIC and especially the smaller 57 trimafter 3-4 pulls i wouldseea lot of activity from it on 1 -2 cylinders (it's cylinder independant)

I think i've finally got the perfect setup that meets all the goals of what i always would think in my head of "what i'd really like to have in a perfect world"

Even after several test drives there's no new signs of oil, the car is still insane at what is now set at 27psi and tuned to 12.5:1. I want to richen it back up a little though, although e85 can run lean it yilds better torque and power below the peak when slightly fatter, just as any fuel does really,the leaning out really only helps near and after the peak power range


here's a couple morepics fromwhen i just ran to the store, I love seeing so much more of the FMIC than I ever have before on my car, and there's a shot of the camera mount i used to getthe footage today that i will upload later (got a femalcoming over for the night so i'm not promising anything car related or even internet for that matter after she arrives if ya catch my drift )

one thing to add

I don't know whY i ever stopped "side gapping" my plugs, even in conditions that would blow out a perfectly good normal plug today when i was rich and the boost was well above 35psi there's been no blowout at all on the side gapped units..Ithinki got lazy having the MSD to make up for poor plug prepand bad wires, but since removing it i'm re-learingin my old tricks/tips that mademe hold such good poweron so little parts for so long in the past..

foranyone getting blow out oneven good plugs, try thenside gapping,it's easy with a dremel and takesonly a few more minutes than a normalgapping( i sit at a table and spend 10-15minutes preppingmy plugs before installing them opposed to just gapping them during install)

THere's plenty of info out there or i can make a short vid using an old plugthat was blowing out constantly just to demonstate if anyone in sterested or needs it carified

 

[nfernotalon]

Have you had any experience in indexing plugs also? Is it worth the time?

 

[turboglenn]

Indexing is good on an engine like a small block checvy where the blugs go in at an angle with a "side" pointing towards the piston/combustion starting area.ON a hemispherical head like ours there's no real indexing tospeak of, the best thing tomake sure spark front makesdirectcontact with the fuel air mixture is toside gap them.. when i had the MSD inmy car i could run .028gap at 30psi easily on br8esplugswith e85 and no issues..after removing it i went to 7es plugs and had blow out until gapping to .019 and tighter.. and even then they were hit and miss..after going back to trying a side gap on the 7's today i was impressed even when they shuold have blown out and unless i get another CDI unit i think i'll stay side gapping (trying to sell mineto pay some bills i'm behind on since i can still drive without it)