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My car wont start. This should be fun.

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AWD_FIEND

10+ Year Contributor
180
2
Sep 4, 2009
Mission Viejo, California
So my turbo drain line has been leaking a bit for a couple weeks and I finally decided to replace it with a braided steel setup. After completing the install i went to start the car to check for leaks and it spontaneously wont run. Car turns over strong but doesnt show any signs of life. Spent about 5 hours diagnosing before I finally threw in the towel and decided to post my issue. Here's everything I've already done.

First thing first cleaned all the battery terminals and checked the fuses. Then made sure I was getting fuel by powering the fuel pump at the test connector and could hear the pump and fuel rushing through the rail. Couldnt verify pressure however.

Checked for spark and found the arc to be red and somewhat weak but present. Ohmd my brank new NGK plug wires and got between 36K-60K resistance depending on how long. Seems very high but not sure whats normal for these wires. Pulled the plugs and inspected plugs and gap they were COVERED with fuel but otherwise in good condition.

Tested primary coil resistance and got 1 ohm which is higher than .75-.85 but I'm not sure if my DVOM reads that low or is that accurate. So I figured it was the coils but I only have 1 new coil so I replaced the weakest sparking cylinder 1 and 4 coil and the car still wouldnt start.

Purchased new plug wires (bosch generics) which ohmd out at 200-400 which is pretty good. Installed them still no start. Changed out the igniter with a known good unit, still no start.

I'm going to test next the ECT/CAS/Inj Resistors and I just want to hear any possible culprits to that I might be overlooking. Could MAF cause a no start...?
 
I'd start with the ecu if your still getting somewhat of a spark but it seems to be week could be a sign of the ecu going out. If the capacitors happen to be leaking it would be a slow process until they finally would just stop. I would still try a good known coil pack too. It's most definitely a spark related issue if your getting fuel but nothing else check all your plug to the coil pack as well could have maybe come loose a little.
 
Try new plugs? Possibly the current ones are fouled out. Swap out an entirely good known coil pack, then swap the ECU.

I'd start with the ecu if your still getting somewhat of a spark but it seems to be week could be a sign of the ecu going out. If the capacitors happen to be leaking it would be a slow process until they finally would just stop. I would still try a good known coil pack too. It's most definitely a spark related issue if your getting fuel but nothing else check all your plug to the coil pack as well could have maybe come loose a little.

I purchased the ECU from Steve so the caps were replaced and I know the ECU is good, although that was my initial culprit. As far as plugs go I guess I forgot to mention I replaced those with the plug wires.

As far as the coils go I figured if they are both bad then replacing one would have changed the way the car was turning over it might at least sputter a bit, but there was no change. I still need to try a pair of good coils which I'm trying to find online. I'm hoping someone will chime in on any more obscure possibilities. Also can anyone tell me what the normal resistance is for NGK wires.
 
I would pull the ecu out and check it, takes 5 minutes crack the case and see how your caps look. my car did that and ended up being the ecu was shit. but also the coolant temp sensor could keep it from starting also
 
So here's an update. I fogged the manifold with some starting fluid and there was no change, its still just turning over without any signs of life. This should prove it's ignition related although I'm still a little concerned with how much raw fuel was on the spark plugs so I'm also suspicious of the FPR.

Tested resistance at the ECT and got 30k ohms(definitely not 3k)?! So I replaced that with a used one that showed 3400 ohms cold which is close but not perfect. I also checked voltage at the ECT and got 4.69v so I know the ECU is sending the right signal. Still no start.

Checked the timing belt (brand new) to see if it slipped and everything is in alignment so it's not cam timing. Im at a loss on where to go next other than the coils/transistor.
 
lots of raw fuel and no starting makes me think no spark aswell so its just dumping the fuel in. id try replacing the coils and see were it goes also check the wiring to coils sometimes that will be bad and cause it not to start
 
lots of raw fuel and no starting makes me think no spark aswell so its just dumping the fuel in. id try replacing the coils and see were it goes also check the wiring to coils sometimes that will be bad and cause it not to start

I actually already replaced one coil with no change but I need to get my hands on another coil to test. Anyone in the Boise area have an extra coilpack I could borrow?:)
 
Possibly the igniter?

Very possible because I tried a spare whose condition hasnt necessarily been verified, although it did run on the car I pulled it from. But I think if the ignitor/transistor has failed it would have any spark, not 100% on that. Need to hear from a guru as I've already moved through the usual suspects and think this issue is more complex.

BTW did a cold compression test (i know not as accurate but car doesnt run so...) and got 100psi/100psi/110psi/110psi which is very low but not enough to cause a no start.
 
Did you do anything else besides the oil drain line while you were at it? Also, are you positive the plug wires are connected to the right terminals?

I have a feeling you'll be real embaressed when you figure this out; I bet it's something simple that's been over looked

God I only hope so, and I keep thinking it's just a vacuum line or something stupid, but I didnt touch anything else on the car initially. In double and triple checking all the wires/hoses/line I did notice one of the bolts for my CAS backed off, but the other bolt was still tight and it didnt appear to have slipped. Still I'm going to start testing the CAS next, but I dont suspect it to be the problem cause the injectors are firing as well as the plugs.
 
Sounds like something simple. I would suggest trying to pull the codes if any are present, that should give you an idea if there are any simple connection issues. Besides that I would definately trace your steps and make sure you didn't just forget something crucial.
 
Subscribed to see what happens

I'd test a good working PTU.

Just realized you said you tried a PTU swap.

--------------------------------------------------------

Inspect the CAS.
 
Last edited:
i had this problem too today. my 1g tsi would turn over but had no interest in starting even with starting fluid so i got to checking and turns out my fuel filter was clogged and my plug wires werent in the correct order so double check those two options. i feel your stress man
 
Subscribed to see what happens

I'd test a good working PTU.

Just realized you said you tried a PTU swap.

--------------------------------------------------------

Inspect the CAS.

I did try another transistor but there's a chance that one is also not 100% b/c I pulled it from a junkyard and need to test it. Right now I'm waiting for a replacment coil and ECT to arrive then I'll go from there.

i had this problem too today. my 1g tsi would turn over but had no interest in starting even with starting fluid so i got to checking and turns out my fuel filter was clogged and my plug wires werent in the correct order so double check those two options. i feel your stress man

I was suspicious of the fuel filter (cause its a few years old) which is why I used the starting fluid. If the car runs for a second or two with starting fluid then it's fuel related, if not then its ignition. My car didnt even cough or try and start with the fluid so I know its not the filter. Still I should probably replace it just cause its time. I know the plug wires arent crossed because I pulled into my shop and replaced the drain line but it ran for a year flawless before that without ever touching the wires. There might be too much resistance in the wires though so Im having a buddy test his in the next couple days and I'll compare my results to his.

I appreciate the sentiment and all the responses!
 
So I tested the coils and even the resistance in the coil wiring and found everything to be perfect. I tested the Transistor/CAS/ECT and everything was in spec but the car still just wouldnt start. I was staring at the engine bay imagining pouring napalm all over it when I noticed the connector to the Ignition Coil Capacitor or Noise Suppressor was chipped and looking kind of nasty. I figured "what the hell I havent considered that yet" so I cut out the connector and soldered the wire together. Jumped in the driver seat and turned the key...pop, pop, sputter, sputter, vrooom. She fired up and purred like a kitten. Shut it off and tried again a few more times and it ran like a champ. So there you have it kids, I dont know if this is the first case of the capacitor disabling a car but I have indisputable proof that it's possible. Or maybe my car really is possessed by satan and hates my guts. I suppose either possibility are equally likely. Hopefully if someone searches in the future they'll be able to see my case. Audios.
 
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