My alignment specs

[drewbird91]

I just did a bunch of suspension stuff on my 1g GSX:
welded trailing arms
dme camber kit
energy suspension bushings
new ball joints
new hankook rs2 tires
car was already lowered

I took it in today for an alignment and the sheet is attached. Look at the rear, before was -1.6* on the left and -1.9* on the right, now its -3.2* on both. He said he couldn’t turn those out anymore. But I don’t understand since the “before” was closer. I have done a ton of searching and found some info out. I found out adjusting camber changes toe, adjusting toe does not affect camber. This is why you always set the camber first and the toe second when doing a full alignment.

He also said that I torqued the bolts before the weight of the car was on it in the rear because one bushing looked twisted so he loosened it up and fixed it.

I bought that rear camber kit which would should have gotten the rear camber back closer to stock. He was saying I might be better off with adjustable upper control arms in the rear.

I don’t know if I should try and go in there and adjust the rear camber myself? Or if that will mess up other stuff. Or just leave it…

I'd like to get the rear camber closer which is why I bought the DME camber kit, but it looks like now that doesn't allow for enough adjustment? Should I have just made adjustable rear upper control arms? Thoughts?

 

[PIMking]

Its because the dumbass that did your alignment turned the metal part in the dme kit. Trust me the people that did my car did the same thing. Came in pretty close and left with some serious camber in the drivers rear.

Now my toe on the other hand he couldn't get because the bolts were frozen he broke two rachets on it and I think thats pretty funny since the dumb ass didn't know what he was doing. Just jack up the rear of the car and pull the upper control arm and make sure the majority of the metal is pointing towards the outside of the car. Then put the bolt back in and make sure its at max and then tighten down the nut only. Your going to need two rachets or wrenches to make sure the bolt wont turn. Now with the DME kit you shouldn't be past what stock is.

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

Screw that. Make them do it. They ####ed your alignment up. They made things worse all around.

James

 

[drewbird91]

Its because the dumbass that did your alignment turned the metal part in the dme kit. Trust me the people that did my car did the same thing. Came in pretty close and left with some serious camber in the drivers rear.

Just jack up the rear of the car and pull the upper control arm and make sure the majority of the metal is pointing towards the outside of the car. Then put the bolt back in and make sure its at max and then tighten down the nut only. Your going to need two rachets or wrenches to make sure the bolt wont turn. Now with the DME kit you shouldn't be past what stock is.

I had the hole on the metal DME kit towards to middle of the car, just like the instructions call for when I installed them and took it in, hence the #s in the before column for rear chamber on both sides.

I'm wondering if he had to turn it in order to get the toe closer to zero?

Screw that. Make them do it. They ####ed your alignment up. They made things worse all around.

James

It was far away from my house, I just assume check the DME eccentric bushing and adjust it if needed. But will I run the risk of screwing up my rear toe if I adjust the camber? You said they made things worse all around, what else did they make worse ?

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

The rear is worse, and the front camber is half a degree off from each other. Its different story if they are both the same, but half a degree makes a difference.

James

 

[drewbird91]

The rear is worse, and the front camber is half a degree off from each other. Its different story if they are both the same, but half a degree makes a difference.

James

Thanks for the clarification.

 

[1992awdlaser]

Yes, if you try to adjust the camber yourself you will change the toe.

 

[drewbird91]

Yes, if you try to adjust the camber yourself you will change the toe.

So what adjustments would you make? Would you take it back to the place? Or just leave it?

 

[1992awdlaser]

I would have to fix it. It is going to make it easier for you to break the tires loose when you launch for one. And it will obviously wear out the tires quicker than normal. You can make it right and then bring it back to the shop and tell them you want the alignment checked under warranty and to fix what is wrong(toe).

 

[drewbird91]

So here is what I did. I jacked the car up and adjusted the rear control arm bushing because it the eccentric was 180* opposite of what it was when I installed that. So I adjust the rear camber and of course I could tell the toe was off, just like I knew it would be.

I ended up taking it back to the alignment place and explained what those eccentric bushing actually did and that they were off. They put it back on the rack and checked it again and everything was way off. I explained to them the eccentric was off and that if it was turned you could get more adjustment.

Well they were able to get the driver's rear within spec but not the passenger rear. Here's why, when they tighten all that stuff they load the rear suspension and tighten it down as if the car was sitting on the road. When he loaded it the passenger rear eccentric bushing would rotate giving me more negative camber. He tried it a few times and as soon as it was loaded it moved.

They were able to reset every back to the spec sheet above but that is the best they could do.

I should have got/made adjustable rear control arms because I am not happy with the DME kit.

The how to on here and on the DME website do not say anything about loading the car when you set those bushings. I read that some people have problems with the bushings moving after a bump or some miles, is that because they didn't load the suspension prior to torquing those bolts?