Stock alignment specs

[tpi_roc]

What are the stock alignment specs for an AWD 1g?


Also whats teh general opinion about 0 toe front and rear (maybe 1/32 front), an extra degree of negative camber in the front, and removing a negative degree from the rear (assuming I'm not out of adjustment range).

 

[Turbo Shogun]

More negative camber can be used to counteract some of the push found in our cars in a corner, however, too much can lead to tire wear (again, it depends on how often you drive you car). As for your rear, I'd keep the camber to 0*. A little toe-out might help in the rear to help the car rotate, but this is useless until you purchase an active toe eliminator kit. Of course, alignments are an essential part to how you race. If you drag your car, you'll obviously want neutral camber and toe (maximum contact patch). If you're a twisties whore, then having a little toe-out here and a little negative camber there may do you some good.

As for stock alignment, I took my car to Tires Plus and have them align the car to stock specs. I forget what the numbers are, but the car looks like it actually has positive camber in the front. I did this before an autocross event and noticed the car had an increased tendency to understeer. I haven't driven the car in competition for months, but hope to rectify this beforehand. Good luck.

 

[tpi_roc]

Well I didn't purchase a kit, but I no longer have active toe


Its actually because of this that I'm going in for an alignment and wanted to improve on what DSM started with. I also found out though that there's apparently no front camber or caster adjustment, only toe. I think i'll go with 0 front toe, 0 rear toe, and move the camber in the back closer to 0°. I drive my car way TOO Much, it has 4 new tires, I drive fairly spirited but not abusive and the way my tires currently wear (well up untill eliminating active toe) was hard on the inside of the rears, and hard on the outside of the fronts. Without camber and caster adjustement the only thing i can do in the front is 0 toe and hope that enough tire rotations save me (Or drop the car a little). For the rears eliminating active toe should stop inside wear on launch, 0 toe setting should help, and a little more positive camber as well hopefully, along with loosening up the rear a bit (maybe) to counter the under steer.

 

[pneumo]

Stock specs show that the front end has a slight ammount of positive camber. This also contributes to understeer. There are a few ways to get some negative camber up front. I remember seeing eccentric strut to hub bolts that can be used to adjust the front camber, but I can't remember where I saw them.

 

[King Salami]

Stock specs (as relayed by my local shop) are approx:

Front camber = +.5 to +1 degree (I think it's actually +.75, but my car is off a bit on both sides)
Front caster = +2.3 degrees
Front toe = 0

Rear Camber = -1.5 degrees
Rear toe = 0 (but varies during hard cornering)

For good handling versus tire wear , I would suggest -.5 degree up front with -.5 to -1.0 degrees in the rear.
1G camber kits are available for both the front & rear. Specialty Products Company has eccentric bolts kits for the front struts ($25 for both sides), and Whiteline in Australia has an eccentric bushing kit for the rear control arms for $50 (it's a Gallant VR4 kit).