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my 500AWHP DD 2g 6 bolt build.

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Eeeeky

10+ Year Contributor
344
4
Oct 8, 2008
Roosevelt, Utah
Hey guys, i figured this would be a great way to keep track of myself, and share my experiences with everyone at the same time. My goal has changed from an 800HP drag car, to a 500AWHP DD. Now bear in mind, i know it wont last 500k miles like this, and i dont care if its not as reliable as your moms civic. Ill have fun whomping on everything out there with it, and lookin good doing it :D:hellyeah:

Plans:

Wiseco or JE pistons (9:1)
Eagle Rods, maybe groden.
Clevite brgs
ARP studs on all
Custom fabbed dry sump oil system (tinkering with the idea)
272 or so duration cams (BC or comp 101200's)
Kiggly springs/retainers.
+1mm valves, portnpolish
Holset H1C (already on)
XSpower Mani (already on)
Just a clean, POWERFUL DD.

clutch will be act 2600, probably a shep stg 2 trans. followed by a fresh red paint job, 1.35" drop, KYB AGX shocks, covered in Sportline springs, and some tasteful motegi wheels. Will be powdercoating the calipers red to match the car. Compressor housing may be powdercoated with the VC to match the red.

Only two crappy phone pics of the engine, goodies to come!

Eeeeek
 
If your looking at doing Groden aluminum rods for a DD build, I think that's a bad idea. Looks like a good build otherwise. Maybe look into getting some Delta grinds of Kelford 272's...
 
It's not such a good idea beacuse they are made out of aluminum which WILL stretch out and you'll need to regularly check the rods for strech.
 
LiQUiDx;bt8087 said:
It's not such a good idea beacuse they are made out of aluminum which WILL stretch out and you'll need to regularly check the rods for strech.

No they won't, that's a rumor people seem to believe a lot. If you run them on the street you will want to wait for everything to warm up before you drive but they aren't just going to stretch because they're alum. Evil Eagle tore down his alum rod motor after a full season of racing and the bearings looked new and the rods were all in spec.
 
You sticking with the 7bolt?
 
Eagle rods are a great choice to use as they are rated up to 700hp. Overall, the build looks good.

@supravw
Yes EvilEagle ran them but that was a track car, not a DD which will be ran more.

Overall, if you are concerned about potential rod issues with anything, do some solid research on the available rods good for your build. You'll be able to get what you want to do :thumb:
 
gst4g63t, read the title buddy. 6 bolt :)

The rod stretching thing is BS...Im use MANY different types of aluminum for my helicopter stuff, and have researched heavily on the groden rods...they WONT stretch. i dont go far for DD'ing, but it will be BABIED after being built. I am thinking eagle rods, just for a little less money spent, being that i only want 500hp, they should do just perfect.
Also, if anyone else is interested, i can fab them up a "Got boost?" spark plug cover if interested.

Im not sure which ill go with yet, im not to that point, stil considering doing a stroker, but i want to be able to get to 9k rpm easily, which i know a stroker isnt good for that kind of RPM.

Eagle rods on MAPerformance are 309.99 for the 6 bolt's, the grodens are $745 if i remember. I think eagles it is, just to save the bucks.
 
Eeeeky;bt8085 said:
might i ask why you say groden rods are a bad idea? Theyre the toughest out there.

You have to drop the oil pan and retighten or replace the bolts every 5K or so depending on the amount of spirited driving you do. The bolts stretch with aluminum rods. Aluminum expands and contracts more so the rod bolts are taking the beating. The rods themselves won't stretch. Plus there's a lot more machining work needed to the block in order for them to fit. If your goal is 500whp, heck stock 6 bolt rods are fine.
 
How much for the boot cover? What kind of exhaust manifold is that...I just got an hx35 so I gotta get a t3 manifold! I would hope groden rods would last forever on a 500whp build I dont think you have anything to worry about there....But eagle rods are half the price arent they? And yeah stock rods will make 500whp but will not be reliable for long.
 
the mani is an XSpower or something, id have to look again. im almost tempted to use the stock rods, would stock pistons hold up? as for the boot cover, not sure. Its really kind of a make an offer thing. it cost me about $20 to make mine. my turbo is actually an H1C.
 
my car made around 500 completely stock(130k miles) plus metal gasket and studs for a long time, I daily drove it everyday and drove it from Oklahoma to Florida beating on it the whole way. it only failed when my wastegate stuck and I wrapped the boost gauge back around to 0 on a 35 psi gauge. I'm guessing it was somewhere around 45 psi on a FP green turbo. good luck with your build, looks good so far.
 
LiQUiDx;bt8097@supravw Yes EvilEagle ran them but that was a track car said:
A track car is beat every time it's driven so why would they not be good for a DD? Because driving it more often is worse then beating the crap out of it but putting less mileage on? :confused: That makes no sense, if it works great in a track car why wouldn't it work just as well in a street car? There are plenty of guys who have ran alum rods in street cars on here.
 
The issue with the aluminum rods is they are not made for the rigors of daily driving. Thats why auto manufactures dont use them in 99% of the cars on the road.. Professional race teams use them because of the light weight, and they constantly tear down and inspect the engines. Other than the light weight which is necessary on any engine that will experience extremely high rpms aluminum rods should be left alone. get yourself a good steel rod and call it a day. Also, there are guys that use stock rods and live at the high 400hp level.
 
Not one person so far has posted anything but hear say and research. I'm building my block right now for a street car weekend warrior/track car and can tell you from talking to guys who actually ran aluminum rods in their own cars on a daily basis and people like Darren at FFWD that aluminum rods are more than capable of being run in a dd. L19 rod bolts torqued down good and checking for stretch after the break in period and once a year after at most is all that's needed. Neither of which are crazy considering I would do that to any thing I built and beat on.
 
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