My 2.4 Build for my '97 Talon

[VETDRMS]

I won't be posting up a picture of every nut bolt and screw but I will try to make this a semi-informative thread that follows my 2.4L build for my '97 Talon.

A good friend runs a machine shop and builds some crazy bikes (nitro raptors, etc.) and donated all the machine work and misc. custom stuff that pops up. Big thanks to him.

This is a pretty standard recipe 2.4 build:

• 4G64 7-bolt Block - Split Thrust
• .020" over Wiseco 1400HD Pistons - Tirado Ceramic Coated
• Eagle Rods
• Eagle 100mm Crank
• ARP Main Studs
• MAP H11 Max Duty Head Studs
• 2g 4G63 Head - Porting by Loomis Racing
• Custom GSC Cams (274 seat duration - 11.7mm lift)
• Evo III Intake Manifold and Throttle Body
• FP Race Exhaust Manifold
• Borg Warner S256ETT - 74mm Turbine
• 2g Auto Built by Me - Thanks to Mark @ Metro for all the Help
• Restalled Stock Converter ~4500RPM

I am building a complete replacement for my stock motor (including all covers, brackets, etc.) so that I have a complete running spare that can be swapped in a day or two should I have any problems.

This will be a commuter car so throttle response and passing-torque are important but not focused on too much to sacrifice the overall power band.

I will be running pump/meth most of the time and either E85 or Q16 for race days.

Everything is here and mostly assembled so I just need to find time for the finally assembly and install and will be updating this thread with progress. The goal is to have the motor swapped in the coming weeks and make it out to PIR in the early spring.



Cylinder Head:

• Engnbldr SS Stock Sized Valves/Bronze Guides
• GSC Beehive Springs, Titanium Retainers, and Chromoly Seats
• Chambers modified to unshroud valves for 87mm bore
• Full radius valve seat
• Chamber Volume: 43cc

We looked at using AMPCO 45 material for the seats but seat life would not be good enough with SS valves and daily use. The Wiseco HDs have a 14cc dish and the block is at 0 deck. I am using a Cometic 0.066" gasket so the final static compression ratio will be 9.62:1.

Here are some pictures of the finished head. I did not get to take any pictures with the valves out as it was 1000 miles away.

 

[Long Duk Dong]

Very nice looking stuff. Keep us posted on the build. I too am building a 2.4 (For my 1G AWD.) but it is allot more basic. I am curious to see how the overall tq/hp increases. Good luck on everything.

 

[m_0ney_pit]

nice same pistons and rods I'm planning on using. The head looks really good, what engine management?

edit: why did you go with the eagle crank?

 

[VETDRMS]

nice same pistons and rods I'm planning on using. The head looks really good, what engine management?

edit: why did you go with the eagle crank?

I will be using ECMLink V3 with speed density. I used the Eagle crank because a friend had a new one laying around and sold it to me for $300. I didn't have a factory 2.4 crank so the decision wasn't too hard. Everything was balanced. Out of the box it was within 2 grams so there wasn't much to do.

 

[m_0ney_pit]

cool just wondering because I read someone on hear talk about crank breakage with the 2.4 on here. Made me wonder if I want to use that crank.

which valve stem seals did you go with

 

[VETDRMS]

cool just wondering because I read someone on hear talk about crank breakage with the 2.4 on here. Made me wonder if I want to use that crank.

which valve stem seals did you go with

I had seen the old crank breakage thread but there are a lot of things other than the crank that can play into that. Everything was checked out, it should be fine, we'll see.

I am using OE seals.

 

[crazyboy81]

I think I wet myself looking at that port job!

 

[DSMReviver]

"Chromoly Seats" is that meaning valve seats press into the head? did they have to have the valve angle seat cut to use these chromoly seats. I just haven't seen anybody done that before and was carious.(I know the factory dose not come with valve seat pressed into them).

 

[VETDRMS]

"Chromoly Seats" is that meaning valve seats press into the head? did they have to have the valve angle seat cut to use these chromoly seats. I just haven't seen anybody done that before and was carious.(I know the factory dose not come with valve seat pressed into them).

Sorry, I should have been more clear. I was referring to the chromoly valve spring seat that goes between the bottom of the valve spring and the head, not valve seats. With the higher spring pressures and higher RPM I guess the stock valve spring seats were cracking.

We looked at using a bronze/nickle alloy called AMPCO45 for the valve seats as an alternative to the BeCu material which is toxic when machined. The AMPCO45 has better heat transfer than the stock seat, but is not as hard. The sevice life would not be long enough when using SS valves (it is requied when using titanium valves).

 

[m_0ney_pit]

is there any reason you went with the stock sized valves with bronze guides for your build?

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

Ports look wonderful. Better than mine and i thought mine were good. Good job and good luck with your build my 2.4 brother.

 

[VETDRMS]

Just a quick update on this. Everything is moving along ok, budgeting time to work on it has been the hardest part but it's getting done bit by bit.

The shortblock is still wrapped up but I hope to have the motor mostly assembled this weekend. Still waiting on the cams from GSC with no indication of whether or not they are done... I'm afraid that will be the item that stops progress, but we'll see.

There was a little more material on the transmission drain plug that what I would like to see so I am going to try to find where that's coming from and will probably put new frictions in it. I'm also installing the Alto Red 5-disc front clutch while everything is down and replacing the OD cluches with some BW high-static frictions. There was some gear whine on decel/coast so I might try to find a good matched gear set and have them cryo treated.

The old motor is out and set aside. It will be nice to have a complete running backup should something come apart.

The good guys at English Racing hooked me up with various bolts/parts and picked up a 4" intake setup while I was there and some Evo rocker arms. I had a few sets of DSM rocker arms and picked out the best looking 16 but the Evo ones have less wear on the pads and are lighter.

I ordered the JMF catch can with -10 AN fittings and ER is welding bungs on the Evo III valve cover, which will then go off to the powder coater with a bunch of other parts I put together this weekend. Misc stuff ordered yesterday included OEM radiator hoses, OEM spark plug cover, -10 AN oil return kit (all fittings will be black/silver with SS lines) new o-rings for FIC injectors, heater hoses, fuel filter and new tailgate shocks (I am sick of the damn hatch falling). I still need to order a restrictor fitting from BEP.

I finally settled on a color-scheme. The intake will be coated a color called "Oatmeal", which looks silver with a bronze hue (similar to the color of the stock Evo III valve cover but more silver). The fuel rail, all brackets and water pipe/housing etc. will be a semi-gloss black. The valve cover will have brushed lettering and the Mitsubishi symbol will be red (the only red in the engine bay...well, other than the bay itself).

I will post some pictures Sunday if there's any meaningful progress. I am still trying to decide what to do with the engine bay...

 

[VETDRMS]

I spent a while today trying to find all the front case bolts. Made a little progress and ported the OFH.

Does this look like it's opened up enough? I plan to run 20w50. Rod bearing clearance is at .0028 and mains are at .0030.

I tried to find a 2g windage tray but couldn't locate one. However, I got an Evo tray and the bolts and almost everything else is the same but there is a large opening on the Evo tray where the 2g tray doesn't have one:

Evo:

2g:

Thanks

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

Opening looks good to me. Looks like mine. Im waiting for cams too from gsc. What are you going with? Im getting mine from english racing and chose the S2R.

 

[VETDRMS]

Thanks. Funny you say that as I am also running the "S2R", from ER. I "ordered" them back in November. ;s

They were supposed to ship last week, I will try to get an ETA on Monday. The auto bushing in the crank was kind of a pain to get driven in, which had to be done with the shortblock assembled. I hope it doesn't cause any issues with the thrust washers. My end-play is .006-.007, which still falls in the standard value but seems a little loose for a new setup.

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

Thanks. Funny you say that as I am also running the "S2R", from ER.

They were supposed to ship last week, will try to get an ETA on Monday. The auto bushing in the crank was kind of a pain to get driven in, which had to be done with the shortblock assembled. I hope it doesn't cause any issues with the thrust washers. My end-play is .006-.007, which still falls in the standard value but seems a little loose for a new setup.

My machinist told me mine was 3 to 4 thousands. I cant move it by hand so im good. Let me know what they say about the cams because thats what holding me back too . That and my ferrea springs and retainers. I guess ferrea had to make a set for me since they didnt have any valve locators. I feel special.

You know what though. I would rather wait and get the best cam possible than get them early and they suck. I called last week and he said a few weeks. Im on the list so. There cant be many of us waiting to get these. No body knows about them.

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

Woot. They are almost ready.,

 

[VETDRMS]

My S2Rs should be here this week. With any luck this will be mostly together this weekend and I will be able to start going through the transmission.

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

Well, just got off the phone with Aaron from ER, and he said you are getting the only set. :-( Wish i could have gotten a set too but i just ordered the S3 that Aaron recommended so we still will have similar cars just your cams have a little higher lift 12vs11.7mm and a faster ramp rate.

 

[VETDRMS]

Well, just got off the phone with Aaron from ER, and he said you are getting the only set. :-( Wish i could have gotten a set too but i just ordered the S3 that Aaron recommended so we still will have similar cars just your cams have a little higher lift 12vs11.7mm and a faster ramp rate.

Well GSC hasn't been very responsive so we'll see what happens. I was under the impression that the "S2R" was 11.7mm lift with a faster ramp rate than the S3.

I just dropped a heap of parts off to be powder coated. The intake/valve cover are a color called "Oatmeal" which is actually mostly silver with a bronze tint and all the brackets, water pipes/housings/mounts/fuel rail etc. Are going to be a matte black.

I have an Evo III valve cover so the little mitsu symbol will be red, which will be the only red in the engine bay. I think it will look nice. The lettering will be brushed.

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

Aaron said the S2r was going to have a 12mm lift.

 

[VETDRMS]

Aaron said the S2r was going to have a 12mm lift.

News to me. I know >11.7mm+ lift requires a different billet core.

Here are the specs on what I will be using:

Intake/Exhuast:
Seat Duration: 274/274
Duration @ 1mm: 236/236
Lift: 11.7mm/11.5mm
Centerline: 107/113

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

Im going to pissed if your car idles better!!!

What pump are you running to support e85 on a big turbo like that?

 

[VETDRMS]

What pump are you running to support e85 on a big turbo like that?

I won't be trying E85 until I go through the fuel system. I am going to run pump/meth or C16 with my current 255 and 750cc injectors, which will probably be too small. Once it's broke in and dialed in at lower boost I'll start on the fuel system.

 

[1fastlaser]

Very nice build man. I had a couple questions, so I sent you a PM.