My 2.4 Build for my '97 Talon

[knochgoon24]

So what head did you go with to have the 43cc chamber? I see it has the smaller intake ports. I've been trying to track down enough details to make a write up about it.

From what I've found, there are at least 4 different "Hyundai heads."

 

[VETDRMS]

I installed the oil pickup/pan yesterday morning. I picked up some 6.0mmx1.0x30mm studs and some flange nuts to install the pan with. It made it a lot easier to get it aligned without making a mess of the RTV.

I used Right Stuff grey for the pan. The caulking gun tubes are really nice and would recommend them to anyone that uses this stuff fairly often. My attempt at an 1/8" bead turned into more of a 3/16" bead but there was only a couple spots where there was some overhang when it was bolted down.

I prepped both the block and the head using some microfiber clothes and brake cleaner until there was no residue on the cloth. You can see the plugged oil return holes on the deck for the 4G63 head. They were plugged with freeze plugs and covered with Right Stuff black.

The MAP H-11 Max Duty studs were installed hand-tight. All the threads had been chased at the machine shop so everything went in smoothly. I had nitrile gloves on to not get any moisture on these as, at least according to ARP, even sweat from your hands can cause stress corrosion. I also installed new dowels in the deck.

I applied three light coats of copper spray to the head gasket, waiting 30s between coats. I let it hang dry for about 20 minutes before installing it.

The head went on smoothly. A couple of the washers were difficult to get around the springs but the nuts were fine. I applied ARP ultra-torque to top/bottom of the washers and liberally on the nuts.

The torque sequence I used was 14-30-60-90 and went over them once at the final torque. I did not torque-cycle them as the ultra-torque lube is supposed to achieve the proper preload in the first cycle. It felt very consistent and smooth compared to the standard ARP moly lube I have used before, pretty cool stuff.

I am waiting for cams so I am going to install what I can on the front of the motor and start working on the transmission. Most of the brackets, intake, and valve cover are at the powder coater and I won't have those until next week so I am at a stopping point.

The only concern I had was the gasket blocked one coolant port beside the number 4 cylinder. You can see it above, it is the port in the upper left corner.

So what head did you go with to have the 43cc chamber? I see it has the smaller intake ports. I've been trying to track down enough details to make a write up about it.

From what I've found, there are at least 4 different "Hyundai heads."

I am using a 2g head from a '99. After it had been decked the cylinder volume was 43cc. I believe the stock 2g head is 45cc so we took off more material form decking than we added when modifying the chambers.

 

[okm12346]

The combustion chamber for 1g/2g is usually 47cc.

The engine looks nice. I just finished building mine, pretty much the same components.

I used 43cc Hyundai head (small port, 2g style) and 9.0 Wiseco pistons. Before the swap the SOHC head and stock pistons with 250k miles on them was giving me around 190psi of compression. Now with the new pistons and 43cc head I get around 200-210 psi (dry test). So you should expect a slight bump of the compression after the head was cut.

Here's mine:

Good luck with your build

 

[VETDRMS]

Sorry, that's correct it is 47cc stock. I was expecting 45cc after we cut it and modified the chambers. I can see why there would be some confusion if the Hyundai head is 43cc.

The static compression ratio of this motor is 9.6:1. Cam duration/timing will impact cranking compression. For comparison, my 11:1 small block chevy has 185psi cranking compression. It has a big solid roller cam with a fair amount of overlap. I really don't expect a cranking compression over 200psi with the "S2R" cams I am using, but we'll see!

 

[1fastlaser]

I was wondering if anyone really played with the 43cc chamber hyundai motor heads. I figured why not since you can get the same 1g port design in a 43cc chamber...or go with the smaller port design with a 43 to get some bump out of compression.

 

[2gmummy]

nice set up thats real simular to the set up i want to run, so ill be interested in the results. Are you going to be running and oil stabilzer or just straight 20w? And is that crank girdle stock? Ive seen one on map but it was only for 6bolt or the g4cs ive never seen one for a 7bolt. And awesome head job!

 

[knochgoon24]

Many people have run the Hyundai heads, but there are several styles.

 

[VETDRMS]

I cleaned off the transmission and dropped the pan. I was expecting much worse but there is actually not much material on the magnets and there isn't a ton of glitter in the pan. This was with about 12,000 miles on the new build.

I was concerned as I had a rattle-type noise when free-reving in neutral. My old billet converter used to do this so I wonder if it is just the converter.

I had the stock restalled converter cut open to check it and everything looks great. He showed me how loose he sets it up and you can rattle the stator around quite a bit so that may have been where the noise was coming from.

I am going to install the Alto Red 5-disc front clutch and put some BW high static frictions in the OD clutch and button it back up based on what I saw in the pan. I will probably pull the input shaft and take a look at the kickdown band. I may tear the pump down as well.

nice set up thats real simular to the set up i want to run, so ill be interested in the results. Are you going to be running and oil stabilzer or just straight 20w? And is that crank girdle stock? Ive seen one on map but it was only for 6bolt or the g4cs ive never seen one for a 7bolt. And awesome head job!

Thanks, with any luck it will be running in the next 2-3 weeks.

I haven't decided on which oil to break it in on, I am leaning toward trying the Brad Penn break-in oil or just non-detergent straight 30W. After that I will use Brad Penn 20w50 only.

The 7-bolts have a 1 piece main cap/girdle.

 

[mysticj]

Many people have run the Hyundai heads, but there are several styles.

Mainly two: The 43cc big ports found in the G4CN(4G67) and the 43cc small ports in the G4CR/G4CP(4G61/4G63).

 

[VETDRMS]

I picked up some parts from the powder coater today, which was a few days ahead of schedule.

I am happy with how they came out, the color combination is exactly what I wanted. It is actually really close to the factory color. The red Mitsubishi symbol sets it off well I think.

The transmission turned out to be in better shape than I had expected. I am installing some better seals and cleaning up some bushings that were showing wear. Also I found out my sunshell was warped causing uneven wear/heat on the kickdown band. I ordered a new band, a paper/seal kit, and some TransGo parts. The torque converter is done and ready to pick up as well. It should only take a half day or so to get the transmission set up and back together.

I'm just waiting on the cams at this point, otherwise I would be close to having everything back in the car this weekend.

 

[Strm Trpr]

Sweet build!
I'm in for results.
I'm curious to see how that Evo III intake manifold works on a heavy breather like the 2.4L.

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

I just got my cams today. Look schweet. Assembling my motor with my friend Ryan (kapok06) on friday.

 

[VETDRMS]

Made a little progress tonight. I am going to pick up the parts for the transmission tomorrow. I am about as far as I can go on the motor until the cams show up.

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

Looks about where mine is less the oil pan on and my cams and gears are on. I had a bi*** of a time putting those head studs on. My engine builder told me i should retorque those head studs btw. He said to go a quarter turn back and retorque to 80.

 

[VETDRMS]

VETTE_50_TH: I torqued the studs to 92ft/lbs per ER's recommendation. After reading up on ARP's ultra-torque lube I only did one torque cycle.

It has been a while since I updated this as progress has been pretty slow. I am still waiting for cams, which doesn't surprise me much, but hopefully GSC comes through.

In the mean time I am finishing what I can. I finished the transmission last night. I ended up replacing the sun shell and kick-down band. When the transmission was new it would occasionally bind on the 1-2 shift when using full line pressure. It wasn't bad but it was noticeable. When I had disassembled this transmission the first time the kick-down band was burnt up. I didn't realize it also warped the sun shell. Upon disassembly this time only the inner 1/2" of the kick-down band showed any heat marks. The sun shell wasn't flat so it was catching the high spot upon engagement. I backed the kick-down adjustment off about 1/8 of a turn from before. I had about .070" of pin travel before and it is .080" now. I also had some bushing wear that was pretty characteristic of how violent the full line pressure shifts are. I sanded the bushing to clean them up which will help as they will be a little looser now.

I also replaced the OD clutches/steels as I had a part-throttle 3-4 shift flare and the steels showed some heat. I combined some parts from a new TransGo shift kit with the existing TransLab modifications to try and fix this. I used a different spring on the rear exhaust valve, changed the kick-down spring, and backed off the line pressure a little bit. The inside of the valve body was very clean but the 3-4 shift valve was a little sticky, which could have caused the flare.

Upon disassembly the input shaft end-play was .039". I shimmed this to .020" with the shim in the TransGo kit. I also used the TransGo sealing rings on the pump. They have a small wire under them to help get fluid under the rings to seal better.

I also installed the Alto Red 5-disc front clutch pack. The stock 4-disc steels had heat spots so it wouldn't have lasted long with the 2.4.

I had the converter cut open to check it out for wear as I could feel the lock up clutch auto-engage on launch. Everything looked good, the woven Kevlar clutch looked great and there was only some minor wear on the cover. The seal for the lock up clutch had a small tear in it, so it might have not had 100% apply pressure.

I used 6x1.0x30mm studs for the pan. I tried to find another rubber gasket but didn't have any luck so I just used one of the many cork ones I had laying around. Hopefully it doesn't leak.

Other than the transmission I got the water pipe/thermostat housing installed. I had to open up the hole on the water pipe mounting tab a bit to accommodate the additional 6mm of deck height. I could pull it down but it moved the o-ring pretty far down in the thermostat housing. I also plugged the water lines I wouldn't be using. I used some 8x1.25 stainless steel cap screws with JB weld. They look pretty nice.

I also got the intake, ignition components, and fuel injectors/rail installed last night.

I am using a Magnus thermal heat barrier intake gasket. After reading some posts about the EGR port melting these I plugged it with a 1/8" NPT plug and JB weld.

The gasket was a good match when aligned with the holes. I moved it to match the port and then scribed a small line above the upper bolts to mark where it should sit. I adjusted this to match while torquing the bolts.

I wasn't sure if they needed to be grounded, but I realized that all the powder coated ignition-mounting parts would not act as a ground due to the coating. I tapped all the holes in the intake and brackets and sanded off the coating under the mounting bolts. I checked continuity between the block and all the bolts/brackets after it was assembled and it is fine. I plan to add a grounding strap from the bottom of the intake to the back of the block as well.

I am happy with how the color-scheme is coming together so far.

Does anyone know where I can get a throttle-body gasket for this intake and throttle body? Will the 1G NT gasket fit the Evo III throttle body? The one I have looks like it has been re-used several times, the last time with grey RTV.

 

[mysticj]

The 1G NT TB gasket should be just fine with the EVO3 IM/TB

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

I ended up torquing my head studs to 90 ft/lbs after calling A1. Im having trouble getting my belt to work with my g4cs and 63 head. Cant get the crank to line up.

Your motor looks nice.

 

[VETDRMS]

The 1G NT TB gasket should be just fine with the EVO3 IM/TB

Thanks!

I ended up torquing my head studs to 90 ft/lbs after calling A1. Im having trouble getting my belt to work with my g4cs and 63 head. Cant get the crank to line up.

Your motor looks nice.

What belt are you using? I am using the 4G64 DOHC Galant? belt and Fidanza gears. Hopefully I will be at the same point within the next couple weeks or else I will be looking at different cams.

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

Yep. 64 belt and gears.

 

[VETDRMS]

The good news is that the cams will finally ship today and I should have them Friday!

I have been test fitting the turbo. The water pipe had to be dented a little bit as the taller deck height moved the turbo up 6mm.

The -10AN kit I got from Extreme PSI shouldn't really be called -10 as the adapter fittings are less than 1/2" ID. Also, the square drain on the BW turbo just hits a flat wall on the drain fitting. I drilled the fittings out to a little over 1/2" while still keeping the wall thickness in a safe margin and I also ported out the drain fitting to match the square drain on the turbo and transition to the hose better. Every little bit helps, right?

With a straight fitting on the pan and a 45* fitting off the turbo the angle doesn't look very ideal for a nice hose bend. Any tips for getting this right the first time? After looking at Gamble's thread it's tempting to just go with Pushlock fittings, although he is using the harder-to-work-with -12AN stuff.

On the same topic, I don't have a BW drain gasket and can't seem to source one locally. ETS recommended a small amount of Copper RTV and says that's what they use on their cars. I usually don't want RTV anywhere near my turbo but if it is thin and allowed to cure a little bit it would probably work. I was thinking of just making a paper gasket from the pile of misc. gaskets I have laying around. What are your opinions?

Also, what should the clocking on the downward outlet be in relation to the block? Should it be parallel or do they pitch toward the front of the car a bit?

Thanks!

Yep. 64 belt and gears.

How far off is it? If you decked the block or the head by any considerable amount they won't line up without using a set of adjustable cam gears. I am still trying to think of the best way to attach my degree wheel to the crank...

 

[VETDRMS]

A picture is worth a thousand words:

Well, far less than 1000, but I only have 1 cam so I will not be getting the motor done this weekend as planned. After waiting three months, GSC sent the intake cam untapped for the late 2g cam sensor after requesting confirmation multiple times that it would be tapped...

I dropped the cam off at a machine shop this afternoon to have it drilled/tapped but it probably won't be done until sometime next week. Hopefully it is handled with care and doesn't have chuck-marks on any of the journals when I get it back.

In any event, here is the cam card. These are pretty aggressive but I think it will work well with my combo. It looks like I will be bench racing a while longer, any fellow b-racers out there have any input on these? Apparently this is the only set that GSC will produce as they are "done" with custom DSM cams.

 

[jimbob_843]

Here's my 2.4 build. Stock head (for now), I kinda ran with the "Frankenstein" theme. Wish i could powdercoat some parts chrome purple and build my head up but hey only 19 with a part timer.

 

[Strm Trpr]

Well, far less than 1000, but I only have 1 cam so I will not be getting the motor done this weekend as planned. After waiting three months, GSC sent the intake cam untapped for the late 2g cam sensor after requesting confirmation multiple times that it would be tapped...I dropped the cam off at a machine shop this afternoon to have it drilled/tapped but it probably won't be done until sometime next week. Hopefully it is handled with care and doesn't have chuck-marks on any of the journals when I get it back.

I spoke with Greg on many ocassion about tapping the intake cam for a 2gb and I received my S2's without the intake cam tapped.

I hope your machine shop doesn't mess up your cams.

This is exactly why I asked Greg to have it done at GSC instead...

Those pics of your the head work look awesome.
PM my pricing on that head work from Loomis Racing.

 

[VETDRMS]

jimbob That green should look pretty good with the white.

Strm Trpr PM sent.

Turbo is installed along with O2 housing and wastegate. I'm just trying to do what I can while waiting for the intake cam. I have been putting off cleaning up the engine bay as it is my least favorite thing to do.

The drain line was kind of a pain to get right as it is pretty short and the hose wants to kink. Here is the order I did it in: (1) install straight fitting onto hose (turbo side), (2) bolt up and mark length to the 45* fitting on the pan, (3) install pan side fitting on hose, (4) install turbo side flange on hose assembly, (5) install assembly to pan and rotate up to turbo, (6) bolt turbo flange down. This was the easiest way to install once the hose was assembled. It took a while to get the center section and compressor clocked how I wanted it and in a way that put the least amount of kink in the drain hose. I had to grind down one of the compressor housing bolts to clear the AN fitting. I tried to keep the oil return as straight down as possible and the compressor outlet is also pointing straight down.

I am using a 0.070" restrictor fitting from BEP but I still need to put together a feed line. I just used the small green spring in the wastegate for now so it will be broke in at 8psi. Here is everything installed:

 

[rx7ttlm]

look its a baby intake

glad you got at least one of the cams. That took for ever!