Motor Mount Q's.

[nightspeed87]

Now I hear it is possible to reduce wheel hop by strengthening/ tightening your motor mounts to reduce engine pull.
I know many people go and purchase those polyurethan ( I think thats what there called ) mount installs, but not to sound cheap but i have heard of people using window weld in the motor mounts and letting it solidify to strengthen the mount. Any one with experiences in this?

And my second question is, is there any ill effects of ( temporarily ) running without a transmission mount. ( The one in front of the battery )
I only have a n/t mount and it wont bolt to the turbo tranny because the shapes arent even. I was thinking about stacking washers to make it the same height but wasnt sure.

 

[jongreenway]

I would replace it.

I just had 3/4 mounts repalced in my engine. You don't want the engine bouncing around.

 

[xioca]

Are you talking about this? http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205132

I've also heard of cutting down a certain type of kitchen cutting board to make inserts.

I would have done the first method but figured you can only really one or maybe two at a time, and they have to fully cure before going back into the car. Therefor I got a set of prothane mounts for ¿$60?and was done with it. Also I don't think running around without a tranny mount is the best idea, but I have no experiance with it, but thats just my opinion.

 

[nightspeed87]

yea , i guess it could affect my shifting if the tranny is flexing huh.
How does your car respond with the stiffer mounts? Notice any difference?
I see your awd so maybe it would be a less effect of stiffening than opposed to on a fwd.

 

[jorge4g63]

Hey bro,just get the prothane kit, i've ran it in all of my talons and they are great. Only ill effect is a little more vibration in the dash. The pros far outweigh the cons really, your engine will be able to transfer more power to the ground, less wheelhop, and less mount breakage(more money in the pocket) .

They're really a worthy addition.
just my .02, hope it works out,good luck

 

[wibblersnatch]

yea , i guess it could affect my shifting if the tranny is flexing huh.
How does your car respond with the stiffer mounts? Notice any difference?
I see your awd so maybe it would be a less effect of stiffening than opposed to on a fwd.

All my mounts were bad when I replaced them with polyurethane and I noticed a BIG difference. The car just felt a lot better. Now my steering wheel shakes at idle which I didn't like...at first, but now for some reason I think it's cool as hell .

 

[titogs95]

If you can get the kit. since you don't have to wait days to let the window weld dry.

Don't run without the motor mount. since it will creat more strees in the other motor mounts = something will happen.

All my mounts were bad when I replaced them with polyurethane and I noticed a BIG difference. The car just felt a lot better. Now my steering wheel shakes at idle which I didn't like...at first, but now for some reason I think it's cool as hell .

Me too!!
But, all I have to do is rev it a little more or stick my leg under the steering wheel and push up

 

[nightspeed87]

ok.. Didnt know the window weld took that long to dry ? I figured it would only take like 2 or 3 hrs to dry? I guess not. Can anyone link me to the cheapest motor mount kits on the internet then?

 

[DSMunknown]

Now I hear it is possible to reduce wheel hop by strengthening/ tightening your motor mounts to reduce engine pull.
I know many people go and purchase those polyurethan ( I think thats what there called ) mount installs,

Yes, you can reduce wheel-hop by replacing the old OEM mounts with polyurethane mounts. You will be recovering lost power when you do this, while also giving your engine more stability.

but not to sound cheap...

But that is exactly how you're coming off as. Look at the link below. The full motor mount set of four is under $60!


http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/products.asp?cat=1306

And my second question is, is there any ill effects of ( temporarily ) running without a transmission mount. ( The one in front of the battery )

Perhaps you should take a gander at the recent thread below. Personally, I wouldn't recommend it, only in extreme cases where you have no other choice (although it is hard to come up with an example where this would be the case).


http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=244263

 

[titogs95]

ok.. Didnt know the window weld took that long to dry ? I figured it would only take like 2 or 3 hrs to dry? I guess not.

From Importnut:

Once you are complete satisfied with your work set it aside and do not touch it for at least a day. I found that waiting a few days allows it to fully cure. However, 24 hours should be more than enough time to allow it to cure and reinstall.

Can anyone link me to the cheapest motor mount kits on the internet then?

ebay link
Ebay is pretty cheap for 80 $ it is not that bad... BTW you will need to have some tools to insert the motor mounts. so be ready... READ here

 

[nightspeed87]

ok well thanks with the links.

 

[92awddsm]

If you try to run it without the tranny mount, you run the risk(a great risk) of cracking the bellhousing on the tranny. Honestly, I doubt you would even be able to drive the car without the tranny mount.

 

[nightspeed87]

yea i wasnt going to try it; at this point idont want to have to worry about anything else going wrong; but thanks for the advice .

 

[JayRolla]

Ohh and believe me you will love the difference with the poly mounts in a FWD. Helps a lot. Taking off will be much easier.

 

[funniegus]

The window weld mod is the best bang for the buck. I was able to fill 3 of my mounts with just 1 tube. the only draw back is that you have to wait 2-3 days for it to fully cure. Or you could speed up the process and use the right amount of heat to cure them faster. I did mine while I had my trans out.

 

[DRated]

Sub-frame mounts are the same as motor mounts? Looking to get some for my talon. This link HERE is what i'm looking for, correct? Thanks.

 

[romeen]

The Windo-Weld is a good compromise between the polyurethane and rubber. I have the ES inserts on the torque mounts and the Windo-Weld on the tranny/driver's side mounts.
http://www.raktron.com/misc/mt.htm

Prothane polyurethane is stiffer than ES. Also with the Prothane you must remove the inner metal sleeve and all the rubber out of the mount for the tranny/driver's side mounts and press the new mounts in wich can be a PITA. I'm not trying to talk you out of the Prothanes, I'm just letting you know.

Frankly, I didn't know ES made inserts for all 4 mounts as shown is DSMunknown's link. Otherwise I probably would have done that. I think they only recently started offering inserts for all of them.

Having said all this, stiffer motor mounts really do work quite well. I have substantially less wheel hop. But the vibrations transmitted to cabin are substantial also. I alleviated this by setting my idle to about 1,000 rpm.

 

[Dream On]

Sub-frame mounts are the same as motor mounts? Looking to get some for my talon. This link HERE is what i'm looking for, correct? Thanks.

No, they are not the same. The ones you linked to are more for the suspension bushings rather than motor mounts.

 

[nightspeed87]

this is a old thread who brought this back?
Anyways for a follow up I found a turbo tranny mount a while back
and I ended up filling my motors mounts with window weld and its been working great.
I actually only did the front back and drivers side and left the tranny one alone because
it was good when I got it. I used a hair dryer on full blast directly on the mount and left it there for 50 minutes per mount and it fully cured. I got it all done in one day.
No more wheel hop, or harsh vibration that was giving me shifting, and reverse problems.
Perhaps one day ill go for the prothane just for a quality look but Id recommend this window weld to anyone on a budget. .

 

[MarkAngelo05]

Nice to hear some feedback about the windo-weld stuff! I was gonna go with the full set of prothane mounts for my car, but I just could not wait a week to get them in and I have read good things about windo-weld. For a second, I almost used Liquid Nails, but I am glad I did not! I found me a tube of windo weld for 16 bux here at checkers in hawaii and the caulking gun for another 6 bux.

So far I have done the cutting board/windo-weld method on my FRONT and DRIVERS side mount. I was gonna do that tranny side, But I only have one jack and that's my stock jack and I just could not get the tranny mount off because it would just get stuck unless I could push the engine down some more...

I just stuck my 2 mounts in the oven, well filled with windo-weld and pieces of cutting board. My front mount was completely obliverated so I had to line it up and smash plastic between to keep it stable and then filled the whole thing with windo-weld. I SURE HOPE THIS CURES OVERNIGHT or in a few hours. I set the oven to 170 degrees. Hope that's not too hot. I didn't see it bubbling or anything, so.

WELL, thanks for letting me know this stuff works!! I hope that I feel the difference with just the front and drivers side done.

Mark

 

[nightspeed87]

i didnt think of sticking it in a oven, how were the results?
And i didnt get a gun or any of that stuff you mentioned, i just bout a 12 dollar tube
of window weld and hand squirted it in. Just wear gloves because it is very annoying to
get off of your hands. Its been working extremely well on my car so far and I stil have two mounts still to fill ( tranny and drivers side. )

 

[MarkAngelo05]

It feels like it's cured pretty well in the oven at 170 degrees for 5 hours.. I tried moving the center hole around and it barely moves!! it's pretty rock solid w/ a little give of course. I'll be installing them tomorrow. Some parts of it feels like there is air stuck in it. I press it and its kind of soft and feels like a balloon. but that's just on the surface part. I made sure to stick that tip into the crevices and fill between the rubber and the pieces that I stuffed in there to stiffen it up a bit more and support the COMPLETELY TORN Front mount.

wow man.. you did that without the caulking gun!! dude, I tried pushing it out with my fingers and inserting a tool in there and pressing it in but it would barely come out.. , so I just ran to napa and bought a gun, made it a little easier, but it was still pretty rough ### the consistency is pretty thick.

I'm going to leave the REAR and TRANNY mounts alone for now. Hope just doin my front and drivers side will help.

Thanks for the quick reply... also, have you done any HARD Launches on it?? I'm not planning on those, but just to see the durability of this mod.

Mark

 

[nightspeed87]

It feels like it's cured pretty well in the oven at 170 degrees for 5 hours.. I tried moving the center hole around and it barely moves!! it's pretty rock solid w/ a little give of course. I'll be installing them tomorrow. Some parts of it feels like there is air stuck in it. I press it and its kind of soft and feels like a balloon. but that's just on the surface part. I made sure to stick that tip into the crevices and fill between the rubber and the pieces that I stuffed in there to stiffen it up a bit more and support the COMPLETELY TORN Front mount.

wow man.. you did that without the caulking gun!! dude, I tried pushing it out with my fingers and inserting a tool in there and pressing it in but it would barely come out.. , so I just ran to napa and bought a gun, made it a little easier, but it was still pretty rough ### the consistency is pretty thick.

I'm going to leave the REAR and TRANNY mounts alone for now. Hope just doin my front and drivers side will help.

Thanks for the quick reply... also, have you done any HARD Launches on it?? I'm not planning on those, but just to see the durability of this mod.

Mark

yea i did a hard launch and my throw out bearing broke ( not related obviously )
But my whole motor was jiggling around in the engine bay before I did it, and just by replacing the rear it stopped shaking, then when i replaced the front it was solid.
The rear i believe is more important than the sides as far as shaking around is concerned, and at least equally important than the front. I would do the rear also , the tranny isnt as nessesary. Its not too hard to take out the rear as it seems.
And you probably got air in yours if you did it all at once, thats why you fill it up proportiantly like filling 1/4 then letting it harden, then another 1/2 then so on and so on.

 

[wcpierson]

why wouldnt any of you just replace them with oem ones? my motor moves around so i was thinking about getting the polyurothane ones but was told the vibration inside the car can be quite annoying so i was gonna have mine replaced with oem ones...what do you guys think?

 

[MyÜberFastGSX]

My friend did the polyurethane fill. And he was happy with how that worked.