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Motor Mount Q's.

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nightspeed87

15+ Year Contributor
1,761
12
May 2, 2006
Tampa, Florida
Now I hear it is possible to reduce wheel hop by strengthening/ tightening your motor mounts to reduce engine pull.
I know many people go and purchase those polyurethan ( I think thats what there called ) mount installs, but not to sound cheap but i have heard of people using window weld in the motor mounts and letting it solidify to strengthen the mount. Any one with experiences in this?

And my second question is, is there any ill effects of ( temporarily ) running without a transmission mount. ( The one in front of the battery )
I only have a n/t mount and it wont bolt to the turbo tranny because the shapes arent even. I was thinking about stacking washers to make it the same height but wasnt sure.
 
Just a tip for those having trouble getting the sleeves from their motor mounts out to install prothanes.... I used a dremel and made a v shaped cut (because that's the only way the dremel could cut far into the sleeve) that met at a point in the middle, then a little bit of rubbing it the right way with a hammer and flathead and they came right out.

This was after using a hacksaw that had the blade taken off and put back on through the motor mount (don't waste your time with this)... banging the holy crap out of them and breaking chisels and screwdrivers... really your best bet is to use a cut off wheel with a dremel or find someone with an arbor press (good luck) to press them out for you. If you don't have a dremel already, you're kinda slackin.
 
bling5tatus said:
Just a tip for those having trouble getting the sleeves from their motor mounts out to install prothanes.... I used a dremel and made a v shaped cut (because that's the only way the dremel could cut far into the sleeve) that met at a point in the middle, then a little bit of rubbing it the right way with a hammer and flathead and they came right out.

This was after using a hacksaw that had the blade taken off and put back on through the motor mount (don't waste your time with this)... banging the holy crap out of them and breaking chisels and screwdrivers... really your best bet is to use a cut off wheel with a dremel or find someone with an arbor press (good luck) to press them out for you. If you don't have a dremel already, you're kinda slackin.







^^ Or just take the car and the mounts to a local trusted shop and have them install the stuff. That seems like one of the easier routes to me. :sneaky:
 
^^ Or just take the car and the mounts to a local trusted shop and have them install the stuff. That seems like one of the easier routes to me. :sneaky:

Seriously? I was offering some advice. Personally, I will not take my car to either some monkey that doesn't know what a dsm is, or to a monkey that does know what a dsm is and thinks I'm the typical idiot that they're gonna charge 500 dollars to do a set of motor mounts...

Haha, that's sweet to take the easier route if you like that, but I like knowing how things work and how to do them myself. If someone is too bent on taking the easy way out of things, they probably should not be messing with a dsm.
 
I just pulled the rubber out and welded in a solid piece of metal, only on the front one. seems to work good sofar havent really had the chance to test it since my car as been down for quite some time.
 
i also filled mine up with industrial polyurethane is $8 at lowes, one tube is enought for two sets of engine mounts.
the difference on my fwd was well worth waiting for a week for it to dry, it was winter time when i did mine so i set them on top of the heater vent and flipped them around every other day, thinking about saving $80 and waiting the same amount of time on getting the "kit" shipped made it easy to chosse between buying them for me. :thumb:
 
You MIGHT get a little more vibration. :| Is it a daily driver?

screw that ^^ . after the install i felt a lot of vibration , but after a while it feels kinda kool.
now i get very lil wheel hop and shifting hella improved the car feels way solid!
 
I kept breaking my OEM mounts, so I tryed some cheap inserts from RRE. I haven't broke a mount since and the engine is definately tighter. Expect a little extra vibration though.
 
Anybody have any tips on how to get the rear Energy Suspension motor mount insert installed? I got the front insert installed easily, but getting at the bolts on the rear mount is just a PITA. :mad:

I've been using the Road/Race instructions as a guide, but still have had no luck. Short of pulling the tranny, anybody have suggestions on how to get the rear done?
 
bling5tatus said:
Seriously? I was offering some advice. Personally, I will not take my car to either some monkey that doesn't know what a dsm is, or to a monkey that does know what a dsm is and thinks I'm the typical idiot that they're gonna charge 500 dollars to do a set of motor mounts...

Haha, that's sweet to take the easier route if you like that, but I like knowing how things work and how to do them myself. If someone is too bent on taking the easy way out of things, they probably should not be messing with a dsm.







The key word there was "trusted".
 
The rear mount is a pita... you can get to it alot easier if the head is taken off the car. I would say take the intake manifold off, but that's a pita and it's easier to just take the intake and head attached together off. Other than that, it is VERY possible to do, there just isn't much room to have your hands in there and you probably will not be able to see what you're doing so it must be done by feel. Try removing your battery tray and see if that helps. Good luck.
 
Anybody have any tips on how to get the rear Energy Suspension motor mount insert installed? I got the front insert installed easily, but getting at the bolts on the rear mount is just a PITA. :mad:

I've been using the Road/Race instructions as a guide, but still have had no luck. Short of pulling the tranny, anybody have suggestions on how to get the rear done?

You're right, the rear one is a big PITA. But it can be done. Make sure you are feeling patient and calm the day you do it :p . Like the RRE instructions state, some of the bolts are "easier" to access from underneath the car...doing it by feel. For the other ones remove the battery and tray as previously mentioned.

You will also need to unhook the shifter cables at the tranny end as well as removing the bolts that hold the cable bracket to the tranny. This is necessary for when you go to lift the rear mount up and out, the cables will otherwise be in the way. When I did mine, after I removed all of the bolts I rotated the mount 180* while it was still in the bracket so that the bottom of it was now facing up. This made it easier to work it past the shifter cables.

Be ready for some bleeing knuckles. Good luck.
 
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