Metal in oil.......Advise Please...PICS

[VTEC KILLR]

Ok, i this car is only 4 weeks old, and I am positive I bought a piece of crap. I have replaced the transfer case already now this. It started when my journal bearings in my turbo started making noise. After sending it out for a rebuild, I was told that a piece of aluminum had got wedged in the oiling holes locking it up. So I drained my oil and strained it and found small metalic flakes that are non magnetic. Then i cut my oil filter open and found that the paper element was full of very small non magnetic metal flakes, it appears to be aluminum. Under the valve cover, i also found the same flakes in any oil puddled up. I did research this and think it may be my oil pump. I was told that my motor has 12k miles on it and it is not making any noise. Also my oil pressure is fine, according to the factory gauge. . I am taking my motor out this week and going to check in the oil pan and oil pump. If it is my oil pump what kind should i buy? If it is not my oil pump any ideas on what else it could be? Any help/and or advise would be appreciated.....

 

[quayzar590awd]

O.E.M oil pump or bust. I personally do NOT trust anything but the orig equipment, I have heard horror stories about cheap ones. Its not worth an engine for a 100 dollar part. Sorry to hear about your bad luck. It will be ok just keep giving her love and eventually she will show you love back.

 

[#40Fan]

Head, oil pump housing, pistons. Only thing I can think of that are alluminum. Can't remember if the bearing material is magnetic or not, but if you had a bearing going out, you would probably be able to hear it. Check the crank play. Could have been a too tight of thrust bearing. See that before.

 

[webconnect]

1. OEM oil pump only.

2. It could be bearings. You don't have to pull the motor to check. Drop the oil pan, check for wiggle on the rod caps. However, bearings typically won't be a fine texture like that.

 

[lacroixdp]

It's most likely not your oil pump. The oil pumps on 4g63 are practically bulletproof. The helical cut geared pumps aren't quite as reliable as the straight cut geared pumps in the 6bolts, but I've only ever seen a handful of failed pumps of either type.

It could be the bearing surface for your cams. However, since that crap has been floating in your oil, all your bearings are probably cooked by now. Either way, you're going to need to yank out your engine and do a rebuild. Check your pump while you're in there. Every single oil passage is going to need thoroughly washed... do NOT trust your machinist to do this for you! You're also going to want to get your journals on your crank micropolished. After you get your block and head back, clean them thoroughly yourself. Take out the bolt on the back of the block to clean the main passage.

Yes, I'm saying your engine needs rebuilt. After contamination like this, there's no way in Hell I'd run my car until it was taken apart, inspected, thoroughly cleaned, damaged parts replaced, and reassembled. You'll only make your situation even worse if you choose to ignore this.

 

[96eclipzGsT]

Metal = bad

The oil pump housing is aluminum, the gears are not. I don't know about it being the oil pump. Are the balance shafts still in it? Good luck... I don't see this one turning out to be an easy fix.

 

[VTEC KILLR]

I have the best luck....... Anyway I just switched over to mobil 1 100 miles ago. The guy before me ran valvoline zr1 racing oil.......retarded. When I changed my oil 100 miles ago I strained it and checked it since it was the first time I changed it and it was fine. I was told that sometimes the oil pump clearance is off causing it to grind the housing? I am pulling the engine and going to check the bearings and will get back with the source of the shinny goodness. I really don't want to have to rebuild the engine......oh well.

 

[LittleBear]

Good luck. It just happen to me, and i still have not found out.

 

[seamus7]

start looking for another motor dude. then if you can build that one and when its done take the crap one that you have now out. if money is the issue...... get a used 4g63 and disect the current one you have. after the new one goes in!!!! good luck

 

[420a_turbo]

You should be able to go kick someones ass for this!

Sorry to hear it man, really shitty situation you are in. Just like the horrible news others are saying, even if its just the pump that shit has been circulating in your motor and needs to be cleaned. More than likely your bearings(cam/crank/rod) are toast! IF they are not toast you would be the luckiest DSM owner ever. Either way, they need cleaning/replaced and your main oil passages need attention too! You probably could get the motor running as is, but I doubt you will get 10k out of it.

The metal is like kryptonite to superman.

Instant death to your motor! Good luck!!!

 

[VTEC KILLR]

Yeah I here you 420a turbo. I would love to spend some quality time wth the douchebag I got it from . What really sucks is I got this car to use as a daily driver because I lost my job and company truck. The asshole I got it from knew this. I am going to start looking for a decent short block and try to move on. It just blows because unemployment doesn't pay that well. Lol.

 

[Beemer92]

Sounds like the oil pump ate itself. Does the car have a stubby balance shaft eliminator?? If so, thats probably your culprit. I agree with the other guys on finding a used engine. Good luck.

 

[Defiant]

It just blows because unemployment doesn't pay that well. Lol.

Worse than that, it's twenty-four hours a day, with no breaks.

 

[quayzar590awd]

Worse than that, it's twenty-four hours a day, with no breaks.

Defiant you always make me laugh, You failed to mention the vacation time.

 

[VTEC KILLR]

At least I'll have some time to work on it. Haha
and you guys are the funniest.

 

[ricktb]

bet your turbo is hurtin.. that would need inspection and a flush too. sorry about the news

 

[sax_man]

As others have said, you will probably have to drop the oil pan. But start with the turbo as it's the easiest.
I ran into the same thing as you, and I thought it was my pump. It turned out to be the turbo.

If it ends up being the oil pump pm me. I have everything you'll need to replace it, and it's all OEM.

 

[notverygood]

if the motor really only has 12k on it its pssible the metal is from the break in process-motors tend to produce some serious metal when breaking in due to the rapid wearing in of parts-the rings seat, pistons get seated, most rebuilt motors have some sort of rough machining that tends to make the first couple oil changes iffy. HOWEVER The lower end bearings are made of soft non magnetic metal (babbit SP?) with a copper inlay-is any of the metal copper colored? That does look a bit like bearing wear-does the motor make funny noises-.

 

[notverygood]

pull the pan-check for metal down there-remove a rod cap and check to see if the bearings have dirt contamination (small pit marks), signs of overheating (blued), improper machining (inconsistant shiny streaks) or wear-if the crank has grooves that catch your fingernails a rebuild is in order. Pull the oil pump and check to see if the housing is wiped-that much metal, something is wrong.

 

[VTEC KILLR]

The turbo has just been rebuilt. That's how I actually found out about the metal in the oil. A piece locked up a bearing. But a fellow dsmer jusmx141 did the rebuild at a resonable price, super fast, and did a awesome job. The motor is coming out tomorrow. I wil check the bearings for discoloration and scoring. Maybe I will get lucky. Yeah right. I may take you up on the oil pump I will pm you and let you know. Another member has a 6 bolt block with arp hardware, acl bearings with 5k miles on it for 500 shipped to me. Does that seem like a decent price? Just in case my engines toast. Thanks for all the advise everyone.

 

[lacroixdp]

Even if it wasn't toast, I'd be tempted to just go ahead and buy that 6bolt and drop it in. You're going to need your block cleaned, along with your head and new bearings at the absolute minimum... you'd be looking at $500 just to get your block you have going again. It would be easier just to drop in the 6bolt IMHO.

 

[VTEC KILLR]

I finally got my engine out and apart today. And when i pulled the oil pan....suprise suprise....lots of metal. Apparently the guy i got it from did rebuild the engine 12k miles ago. Everything looked good, all the gaskets were new, new timing components. Although he didn't remove the balance shafts, and he DIDN"T REPLACE THE BALANCE SHAFT BEARINGS The rest is history. I am rebuilding the entire thing. The pistons are scored up pretty bad, and the bearings are TOASTED. The crank and rods have to be turned. Any one have a suggestion on pistons? Any good deals going on anywhere?

 

[lacroixdp]

That sucks - I'm sorry to see your loss Do not turn the crank - junk it and buy another one. Mitsubishi's specs for it are if it's out of spec, it is to be replaced.

 

[96eclipzGsT]

Is that the balance shaft bearings? That sux. If the crank isn't grooved up I would mic it and see if its still in spec. I don't believe you can turn them because they are nickel coated. Is the block bored over any?

 

[VTEC KILLR]

The block is not bored out any, and the rods have std. bearings as well as the crank. I never knew you couldn't turn the crank. MMMmmm i will have to see if there are any grooves. I know there are some heat marks. My main and rod bearins were SHOT. Oh and yeah thats the rear balance shaft bearing. When i pulled the pan thats what i seen down beside the balance shaft in that pic.......FREAKING AWESOME>>>