MD Inspection Fixes

[Magrud3r]

I live in the oh so wonderful state of Maryland and the inspections here are ridiculously stupid about some things. I thought my rear pads and service engine light wouldn't pass when I had my gsx inspected recently but this was not the case. They did however complain about a bunch of other stuff that I need to get to pass, even if it's temporary. I must get my car on the road asap so I don't have to make two car & insurance payments, as I want to save all the money I can before I leave for the Air Force.

I have a custom molded rear bumper and it doesn't have the two holes near the middle on each side for the reverse lights.. this does not pass and I need a way of getting reverse lights on the car. The reverse lights only come on in the tail lights if the head lights are on. I'd like to wire it so they came on all the time when it's in reverse or put a hole in the bumper for the reverse light. How would I go about doing this? Is there a part # for the wire for it someone could share with me? Any input/advice is always appreciated. I can post a picture of the bumper if someone wants to see it.

My other big thing that didn't pass was the internal front bumper has been cut to accommodate the big front mount. I am going to take the bumper off tomorrow and look at it, but as far as this goes, it should be fine to take off the remaining internal part, making it appear as it was never there right?

There are a few other things that didn't pass but these are small simple fixes I can handle, like a battery hold down, etc. Anyone with any insight to my main problems here would really help me out.

 

[counti41]

Seperate the wiring for the reverse lights from the other harness and wire them to your cars reverse switch from your transmissio.you could wire in a fuse and circuit breaker if youre worried about pretecting that circuit this should take anywhere from 30 min to 1 hour to do a clean install

 

[Magrud3r]

Seperate the wiring for the reverse lights from the other harness and wire them to your cars reverse switch from your transmissio.you could wire in a fuse and circuit breaker if youre worried about pretecting that circuit this should take anywhere from 30 min to 1 hour to do a clean install

Yes there is hope! Okay thank you, but is there a wiring diagram somewhere I can look at? I want this done once and done right.

 

[NHerron]

Can you go to the junkyard and pick up spare reverse lights and the harness that may go with? If the stock rear lighting harness isn't hacked I would imagine the original back up light connections are still there... you would just need to integrate the backup lights into the bumper itself at that point

To make the backup lights come on anytime you're in reverse, I don't think it would be very hard come ta think of it . Most likely you would just need to trace the electrical diagrams to find where to jump the right wires. For instance, when the headlights are switched on, this most likely causes a relay to trigger on, so now the only thing keeping the backups lights from switching on, is the actual backup sensor in the trans.

So by simply jumping the ASSumed 'existing' relay wires, it'll be an incomplete circuit just UNTIL trans is shifted to reverse

Make sense?

 

[RamenPride]

No such thing as "temporarily" passing inspection. It either passes or it doesn't. Easiest thing would be to put the stock rear bumper w/reverse lights back on, and then take out the FMIC and put a stock bumper support back on. It will then pass inspection, then just go home and put the aftermarket stuff back on. Unless something's changed, the MD inspection is just a one time thing so you don't have to worry about it again (unless you register your car in another state and then move back or something)

 

[Magrud3r]

Can you go to the junkyard and pick up spare reverse lights and the harness that may go with? If the stock rear lighting harness isn't hacked I would imagine the original back up light connections are still there... you would just need to integrate the backup lights into the bumper itself at that point

To make the backup lights come on anytime you're in reverse, I don't think it would be very hard come ta think of it . Most likely you would just need to trace the electrical diagrams to find where to jump the right wires. For instance, when the headlights are switched on, this most likely causes a relay to trigger on, so now the only thing keeping the backups lights from switching on, is the actual backup sensor in the trans.

So by simply jumping the ASSumed 'existing' relay wires, it'll be an incomplete circuit just UNTIL trans is shifted to reverse

Make sense?

Yes, I understand. I just hope the wiring is still there. I'm going to try and find a wiring diagram or at least a picture for what to look for. Then hopefully I will be able to get my inspection and tags.

No such thing as "temporarily" passing inspection. It either passes or it doesn't. Easiest thing would be to put the stock rear bumper w/reverse lights back on, and then take out the FMIC and put a stock bumper support back on. It will then pass inspection, then just go home and put the aftermarket stuff back on. Unless something's changed, the MD inspection is just a one time thing so you don't have to worry about it again (unless you register your car in another state and then move back or something)

Sure there is, just do something for it then take it back off. The rear bumper would have to be destroyed for that, it's molded on. Worst comes to worst I will do that or just put a hole in it for the stock reverse light spot.

As for the front it's just the support, I am going to take a look at that today and see what it looks like and go from there. How would it run without an intercooler?

 

[NHerron]

Well my bad for ASSuming

The backup lights actually come on anytime trans is shifted into reverse. Found out by looking at my diagrams and doublechecked by checking my car this morning. It appears my transmission backup sensor is broken too So I jumped the connector and whalah! Backup lights with or without headlights on. Picture is attached which came from my 97-99 FSM.

Here is a link to download diagrams to your hearts content along with a nifty parts program where you put in your VIN number and get OEM part numbers for any part on the car (scroll down to "ASA / CAPS Parts Programs" first link below) It's also possible to order parts from any Chrysler dealerships in case no Mitsubishi dealers are around ya

http://www.mitsubishilinks.com/

 

[Magrud3r]

^Awesome that is perfect. The problem is I don't see any white at all in the reverse lights now.. I don't know if the stock tails have white reverse in there ..? Any confirmation on this would be awesome (Once again I have a molded rear end which doesn't have the spots for the middle reverse lights.

I was working on the car all day trying to fix the things needed done to pass. I have halo projector lights and had to swap the bulbs out in the parking/turn signal spot and also had to remove the blue ring around the low beams. While taking the battery off my allen wrench touched from the positive terminal on another metal piece (not sure exactly what part it is I can post a picture if needed).

The car was tuned (good 30 hours of tuning) and now when I give it gas the boost gauge hardly goes above 1psi... The right blinker inside the car was also staying on and coming off for no reason. When I turn the left signal on it's fine but the right is very dim when it's turned on. When I just turn the parking lights on the right side is much brighter though. And then the interior gauges started flashing..

I had a previous issue of the previous owner putting the battery in backwards which blew the alternator fuse and that's been replaced for awhile. The fuse isn't blown. I don't know what exactly happened/is wrong with the car but I am kind of scared to drive it. I don't want to damage anything. I'm considering putting it back to stock (mod wise) this is ridiculous every time I turn around something happens...

I didn't think taking off the battery terminals reset the tune? Anyone with any ideas would be very helpful this is taking its toll on me.

If it's worst case scenario and needs a retune, anyone know of anything near the Maryland area that is fair priced? I know of Mach V Motorsports that's about it.. far away. It was tuned by Extreme Motorsports (who have gone under) and tuned with Apexi S-AFC and Apexi A-VCR

Anyone?

 

[Magrud3r]

Need some advice asap, so far I've gathered that if the tune reset I would need to change out the injectors...

 

[NHerron]

If your rear bumper uses the stock tails, then no, you don't have integrated backup lights. They are separate from tails. The backups are near the license plate, just look around the gallery for pictures of stock rear ends

According to the manual page 9
http://www.fd3s.net/avc-r_manual.pdf
settings will be stored even with unhooking the battery. You might have fried it but hard to say. Try restting it. In short, it's an enhancement of boost control. You would be fine using just a regular manual boost controller (MBC) but it's up to you if you still wanna use the AVR-C. Search around tuners for "boost solenoid vs mbc" or similar to it to see if you want to run it or not

I don't know if you can short out the SAFC like that but since the boost controller got messed maybe it's possible. Do you have a wideband to check what the air fuel ratio is?

Point is, the boost controller being bad isn't the end of the world since you can just unhook it. But not the SAFC. If you have bigger than stock injectors and higher than stock boost pressure you need a means to adjust fuel. You can tune the SAFC yourself, just look at the guides on SAFC tuning but I would really recommend a wideband

Fill out your vehicle profile to get a better idea of what your setup is

 

[Magrud3r]

If your rear bumper uses the stock tails, then no, you don't have integrated backup lights. They are separate from tails. The backups are near the license plate, just look around the gallery for pictures of stock rear ends

According to the manual page 9
http://www.fd3s.net/avc-r_manual.pdf
settings will be stored even with unhooking the battery. You might have fried it but hard to say. Try restting it. In short, it's an enhancement of boost control. You would be fine using just a regular manual boost controller (MBC) but it's up to you if you still wanna use the AVR-C. Search around tuners for "boost solenoid vs mbc" or similar to it to see if you want to run it or not

I don't know if you can short out the SAFC like that but since the boost controller got messed maybe it's possible. Do you have a wideband to check what the air fuel ratio is?

Point is, the boost controller being bad isn't the end of the world since you can just unhook it. But not the SAFC. If you have bigger than stock injectors and higher than stock boost pressure you need a means to adjust fuel. You can tune the SAFC yourself, just look at the guides on SAFC tuning but I would really recommend a wideband

Fill out your vehicle profile to get a better idea of what your setup is

Wow don't know what I'd do without you! I've went ahead and ordered a backup assembly, lens and bulb for $36 altogether. I'm going to have a spot put in the rear for it because I want the stock bumpers eventually if I keep the car anyway.

I think I will just use the apexi temporarily until I can decide on a better boost controller, had a hallman in my evo it did the trick for $60. Unfortunately there isn't a wideband but I definitely will be getting one as soon as I have tags.

I have never tuned before but I am definitely willing to learn. The boost was set to stock level before (13 psi I believe?) but it had 3 other settings though I kept it on the lowest. I'm not 100% sure on every mod I will try to find out what size injectors. Some of my mods for example are:

• Frank 4 20g turbo
• HKS 264/264 cams
• Built engine - Ross pistons - Crower rods - Magnafluxed crank - Ross rings - ARP head studs - .02" overbore - 8:5:1 compression
• Ported and polished head, 3 angle valve job
• R&D thermal exhaust

There are a lot more but the previous owner didn't give me a complete list..

As for the right signal being on whenever I turn the headlights on, any advice or what to check for there? I really do appreciate your help most people read and don't bother. It means a lot.

 

[NHerron]

When you arced the wrench, did the wires fuse together or melt etc?

I have halo projector lights and had to swap the bulbs out in the parking/turn signal spot and also had to remove the blue ring around the low beams.

What do you mean swap bulbs? Basically, what exactly did you have to do there...did you move, unplug, rewire anything? Is the harness running up to the headlights stock? IE not hardwired to the headlights

Taking a picture of the back of housing would help

No problem man sometimes when you can't help yourself theres nothing to do but help others... When I have the spare time anyway. Which I currently have for another 2 weeks, and then it's balls to the wall at my new job working oil fields

I really need to get into the good sleep habit again

 

[squeak104]

Double check you put the correct bulbs in when you replaced the turn signals. For a temporary fix, just put some thin foglights on the bottom of your bumper in the back for reverse lights. Cheap and not permanent.

 

[Magrud3r]

When you arced the wrench, did the wires fuse together or melt etc?



What do you mean swap bulbs? Basically, what exactly did you have to do there...did you move, unplug, rewire anything? Is the harness running up to the headlights stock? IE not hardwired to the headlights

Taking a picture of the back of housing would help

No problem man sometimes when you can't help yourself theres nothing to do but help others... When I have the spare time anyway. Which I currently have for another 2 weeks, and then it's balls to the wall at my new job working oil fields

I really need to get into the good sleep habit again

No it was straight metal on metal. I just undid the bulb in there and replaced it with an amber bulb. I only replaced the parking bulbs.. The harness is stock I believe it's just the headlights aren't. I can get a picture of the housing later.

I may just sell the car to get out from the issues I've been having nothing major but more than I really wanna deal with before I go away. And I hear that dude I've been waking up anywhere from 2 to 6pm

Double check you put the correct bulbs in when you replaced the turn signals. For a temporary fix, just put some thin foglights on the bottom of your bumper in the back for reverse lights. Cheap and not permanent.

Yes I put in 1157s, they are many ideas I came up with for the rear but I think I will see how hard it is to wire the reverse assembly then go from there..

 

[TSITurbo95]

As for the front bumper, it MUST still retain the crash beam. As long as it retains this, you will pass. As for inspection, I would personally find someone who has a connection/works as an inspector and put all this behind you!

 

[Magrud3r]

It does have the bar, they said the internal front bumper was cut in half and I didn't see this only the radiator support was cut a little for the front mount... And I've looked for days to try and find an inspector, they're all dicks about it.