Manual transmission oil type? Will this mobile 1 be ok?

[darknezz7]

Ive seen everything from redline, royal purple, the bg stuff is said dealer and best, reguar 75-80w gear oil

I'm wondering if this mobile 1 75-140 synthetic will be ok for awhile? we can change it later but I have this already and need something to put in the car. I also have regular gl5 80-90

Or can someone tell me something cheap we can use for a bit?

 

[DSM1G90]

Diaqueen fluid is close to a "Franklin" ($100.00) a gallon.

 

[Maes]

Ouch must be price jacked or really good

 

[92AWDHX40]

No that's what the diaqueen costs, you get a gallon of it.

 

[jbeaton9292]

Thanks J I'm going to try it out after winter. Winter up here is pretty brutal so the car stays in the garage

im up in michigan i hear you i hate winter its a whole 12 degrees today i was like really a white thanksgiving

 

[bastarddsm]

f***in amateur hour in here. http://teamrip.com/manual_transmission_gear_oil_recommendation_info.html

If you can't find anything on his list any GL5 is fine. The high pressure additives might make the synchro's a little less effective, but I can flat shift mine at 9500 with a single disc clutch. So it clearly can't be that bad. Having a clutch that releases well is at least several orders of magnitude more important. It does not corrode you synchro's, it tarnishs them, and if you have ever taken apart a used transmission, they are tarnished anyway.

Never evey use synchroshift, or the "thin" type lubes. You need gear oil in your trans.

Can a moderator like delete all the bad misinformative posts?

 

[kchaazz]

I use Redline 75w- 140 NS in my trans, but I have a Kaaz front dif and its supposed to have a gl5 oil. The NS (No slip) has no friction modifiers, so itll not only make the diff lock harder, it is also great for synchros. Im thinking about going to the 75w- 90 NS though since the 140 is super thick in this cold weather. I dont know why this has to be so difficult...

 

[darknezz7]

Lol back n fourth back n fourth.

We are just gonna go with redline, its what I've used and its obviously trusted and what a lot of other use.

thanks for the link bastarddsm

 

[zedicus]

royal purple and mobil 1 are also both really good 'brands' just get the correct style of fluid. saying 'royal purple synchromesh sucked' might be true in our trans. however royal purple manual transmission fluid or royal purple 75-90 are both really good in our trans. don't hate on a brand if you misused a product.

 

[GST with PSI]

f***in amateur hour in h ere. http://teamrip.com/manual_transmission_gear_oil_recommendation_info.html

If you can't find anything on his list any GL5 is fine. The high pressure additives might make the synchro's a little less effective, but I can flat shift mine at 9500 with a single disc clutch. So it clearly can't be that bad. Having a clutch that releases well is at least several orders of magnitude more important. It does not corrode you synchro's, it tarnishs them, and if you have ever taken apart a used transmission, they are tarnished anyway.

Never evey use synchroshift, or the "thin" type lubes. You need gear oil in your trans.

Can a moderator like delete all the bad misinformative posts?

I'll elaborate. It is well documented that GL-5 lubricants which contain additives like sulfur and phosphorus corrode "yellow" metals such as copper and brass. If you're using a GL-5 lubricant that doesn't contain these chemicals, then sure, your synchronizers will be fine. Many manufacturers aren't specific about what additives/chemicals their lubricants actually contain though, so you'd be best off using a GL-4 lubricant in an application that calls for a GL-4 lubricant. Redline, for example, specifies some of their GL-5 lubricants are not corrosive, so obviously these would be fine.

If you want to use an EP GL-5 lubricant designed for differentials and heavier gear sets in your transmission, by all means, do so. That doesn't make it right, and it's certainly not the best choice given the other lubricants designed specifically for the application.

Amateurs settle for what works because they can't find anything else. People with brains do shit right the first time.

 

[darknezz7]

Amateurs settle for what works because they can't find anything else. People with brains do sh** right the first time.

This. Thats why we got redline, why I used permatex the right stuff on the oil pan, bought the adapter to recirc the bov, wont go bigger turbo until ecm link, ect ect.

Its been fun learning and without this site and all the info out there this project would not have been possible.

 

[donniekak]

Never use any of the "synchro" oils in a dsm transmission. It may shift better, but the bearings, and gears will pay the price.

 

[luv2rallye]

I've used the Redline "MTL" (SAE 75W80 API GL-4 Gear Oil) in my FWD Eclipse for 10 years. I've tryed the MT-90 and it worked ok but the MTL shifts easier, especially in the colder winters up here. The MTL also says right on the bottle it's designed for FWD transaxles. MT-90 works best on AWD trannys.

 

[bastarddsm]

I'll elaborate. It is well documented that GL-5 lubricants which contain additives like sulfur and phosphorus corrode "yellow" metals such as copper and brass. Amateurs settle for what works because they can't find anything else. People with brains do sh** right the first time.

Show me your sources on this? What is the rate of decay? I can damn well guarantee that it is very very slow. I've bought a lot of transmissions over the years, and I have yet to see one with significant corrosion to the synchros. I run GL5 and in 10 years of this I have not seen any of this catastrophic corrosion you speak of. Old muscle car guys run Gl5 in toploaders T-10's and M22's, don't see any scary tales of corroded synchros there.

Considering that all of our cars are far beyond what the factory suggested I'd say that running the GL5 is the right choice.

 

[darknezz7]

Ive gone and started a war...

I've used the Redline "MTL" (SAE 75W80 API GL-4 Gear Oil) in my FWD Eclipse for 10 years. I've tryed the MT-90 and it worked ok but the MTL shifts easier, especially in the colder winters up here. The MTL also says right on the bottle it's designed for FWD transaxles. MT-90 works best on AWD trannys.

well we already bought mt 90 so ohwell....

heres a pic of the car

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just a few coolant hoses and 2 caps for the throttle body nipples away from done.

 

[luv2rallye]

MT-90 will be fine in your car.

 

[GST with PSI]

Show me your sources on this? What is the rate of decay? I can damn well guarantee that it is very very slow. I've bought a lot of transmissions over the years, and I have yet to see one with significant corrosion to the synchros. I run GL5 and in 10 years of this I have not seen any of this catastrophic corrosion you speak of. Old muscle car guys run Gl5 in toploaders T-10's and M22's, don't see any scary tales of corroded synchros there.

Considering that all of our cars are far beyond what the factory suggested I'd say that running the GL5 is the right choice.

Even if I knew the decay rate (which I don't) it would be different for each lubricant, and not present in lubricants that don't contain the additives I mentioned in my prior post. Regardless, it's a moot point. Whether it causes corrosion over a matter of days or a matter of years, it's a FACT that it happens, and a quick Google search will yield you hundreds of results on the topic. You're willingness to ignore a fact based on the rate of decay says you're not using common sense.

Furthermore, in a world where you're using a GL-5 lubricant that is not corrosive to your transmission, it's still stupid. Many manufacturers (including the list you posted) do not recommend an EP GL-5 lubricant be used in transaxles. I've already stated the reasons for this, and you can also re-read them by clicking on the link you posted. If you think you know better than the manufacturers, then by all means, keep running GL-5 in your shit.

Like I said, everyone has their own opinions on what's best in their trans. If you are in a situitation like the guy who posted earlier, who said his aftermarket center diff called for GL-5 lubricant, scenarios like that are understandable. Otherwise, I don't see the point. You say GL-5 is the best lube for the job. I say, that's stupid, given the 1,000 other products on the market that are designed specifically for the application. Not to mention, I almost guarantee most GL-4 lubricants will perform better 9 times out of 10. If it works for you, great. Keep doing what you're doing. Venting the BOV on a stock car works for some people too, but that doesn't make it right.

 

[Ryannterror]

I always use Redline MT-90 in my 1g AWD trans.

 

[bastarddsm]

.

They also don't reccomend installing different turbochargers, or any of the things we do.

I suppose thats why TRE generally suggests GL4 oils for "stock power levels"

I'm sure you run synthetic 5w30 in the engine and wonder why your turbo life is shit too?

 

[GST with PSI]

Hey, you wanted the mods to take all the misinformation down, while simultaneously posting misinformation. Now you're acting all defensive?

C'mon. Read some of your own posts. You say things like high pressure additives might make the synchros a little less effective...and GL-5 may cause corrosion, but it's slow and nothing to worry about.

What the hell is there to gain by running GL-5? In most cases, any extra protection the EP properties provide would be cancelled out by destroying the synchronizers and ultimately the gear sets themselves. The shit is too slick for synchronizers to do their job. That's pretty easy to understand, right? Not to mention, you'll need to verify the GL-5 you're using won't eat your transmission, and is actually compatible with applications that call for a GL-4 lubricant.

Here's a thought; do what every other normal human being does and run the right fluid in the transmission from the get-go so you don't have to worry about any of the risks associated with running GL-5 where it's not recommended. For some reason, you seem opposed to this, which I am failing to comprehend. I'm not sure if you're just arguing for the sake of arguement or what, but it really seems like you're grasping at straws here.

 

[darknezz7]

on a side note

I put the redline mt 90 in and started it today! only idled it for a few mins but its already running great!

btw this is my first time working on this engine, limited turbo experience period, first custom engine build (done plenty of stock head gasket changes) and first time attempting an engine bay like this.

After 5 months of work, I'm super happy it is running

 

[donniekak]

I run a heavy gl5 oil to help this not happen as often. The synchros don't have time to tarnish when the gears only last a few months at best.

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[GST with PSI]

Yep, 3rd gear is typically the weak link when you start making real power. I'm not sure any type of lubricant will keep that kind of carnage from happening. Nice work