low oil pressure (just happend)

[randyknight]

ok i used to beable to post in all sections of this fourm, but im not sure what happend to that... but i found this thread and its kinda like this.. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/395950-oil-pressure-problem.html

i built a 2.4 stroker have a 4g63 6bolt boared .20mm over 100mm eagle crank, weisco pistons, manley H beam rods ARP main studs.. spec on main and rod bearings was 1 thousands when i built it.. it has about 4000 miles on it and has been running great for two years now... i was driving to a friends house to take off my old turbo and install a new (bigger) one. cruising at about 60 mph i had about 55 psi of oil pressure.. normal for what it has been runing... i noticed it started dropping very slowly.. it dropped to about 40 psi at 60mph... i got to his house and installed the new turbo.. when i started it back up my oil pressure cold at idle was like 12 psi.. alot lower than it had been being.. checked the oil, and it was good.. so i drove it home (about 10 miles) it is now reading about 24 psi at 60 mph.. 60mph being about 2500rpm. i installed a new oil pump and BSE kit when i built the motor. any sugestions before i just pull it down and replace all the bearings, oil pump, and BSE kit????? help me if you can... no weird sounds or anything.. i remember having to port the oil filter housing when i built it because i had like 75 psi of oil pressure at warm idle...

 

[empie1]

ok i used to beable to post in all sections of this fourm, but im not sure what happend to that... but i found this thread and its kinda like this.. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/395950-oil-pressure-problem.html

i built a 2.4 stroker have a 4g63 6bolt boared .20mm over 100mm eagle crank, weisco pistons, manley H beam rods ARP main studs.. spec on main and rod bearings was 1 thousands when i built it.. it has about 4000 miles on it and has been running great for two years now... i was driving to a friends house to take off my old turbo and install a new (bigger) one. cruising at about 60 mph i had about 55 psi of oil pressure.. normal for what it has been runing... i noticed it started dropping very slowly.. it dropped to about 40 psi at 60mph... i got to his house and installed the new turbo.. when i started it back up my oil pressure cold at idle was like 12 psi.. alot lower than it had been being.. checked the oil, and it was good.. so i drove it home (about 10 miles) it is now reading about 24 psi at 60 mph.. 60mph being about 2500rpm. i installed a new oil pump and BSE kit when i built the motor. any sugestions before i just pull it down and replace all the bearings, oil pump, and BSE kit????? help me if you can... no weird sounds or anything.. i remember having to port the oil filter housing when i built it because i had like 75 psi of oil pressure at warm idle...

If there is no leaks than it sounds like a bearing might be starting go. You sure your op sending unit is %100? Sounds like you know the deal, drain the oil and check it out.

 

[randyknight]

well i used ACL tri-metal race bearings... im using a autometer electric oil pressure gaugebut the stock one is reading real low as well.. the stock one on my car hasnt given me any trouble but i got the autometer one to be sure after the build.. i guess i will just order new bearings, oil pump driven and drive gears, and BSE kit.. that is if no one else has any suggestions..

 

[empie1]

well i used ACL tri-metal race bearings... im using a autometer electric oil pressure gaugebut the stock one is reading real low as well.. the stock one on my car hasnt given me any trouble but i got the autometer one to be sure after the build.. i guess i will just order new bearings, oil pump driven and drive gears, and BSE kit.. that is if no one else has any suggestions..

Why order anything before diagnosing the problem? Thats throwing away money. You do realize that race bearings dont mean they will last 100k right? Its relevant to abuse and maintenance.
As said, drop the pan first.

 

[randyknight]

my train of thought is to go ahead and order the bearings, because if it is the bearings i will have them and if not, i will use them one day.. i have another 6-bolt block i want to build anyway.. thinking of using clevite 77 this time..

 

[empie1]

my train of thought is to go ahead and order the bearings, because if it is the bearings i will have them and if not, i will use them one day.. i have another 6-bolt block i want to build anyway.. thinking of using clevite 77 this time..

Hey man...whatever works for you!

 

[randyknight]

so you would have me plasigauge all the bearings?

 

[empie1]

so you would have me plasigauge all the bearings?

Absolutely. Cases like this are where plasigauging is especially crucial. Honestly I wouldnt even drive it till you figure it out just in case.

 

[randyknight]

those ACL bearrings didnt last long if it is a bearring..

 

[empie1]

those ACL bearrings didnt last long if it is a bearring..

Well there are a lot of factors to consider before blaming a bearing failure. How you drive the car, oil quality, oil pump quality, maintenance...98% of the time parts dont fail for no reason. Especially a name brand like acl.

 

[randyknight]

well it has had some "drive it lke you stole it" moments, but it has also had alot of just driving it normal... it has almost 5000 on it.. new mitsu oil pump at build, mobil 1 full syn 10w30 oil.. have changed the oil 3 times since build. had 1 thousandths of oil clearence on main and rod bearrings when i built it.. all i can think of is that the old turbo i had went through a MAJOR bearing failure while it was in the car.. but i have always used k&n oil filters...

 

[empie1]

well it has had some "drive it lke you stole it" moments, but it has also had alot of just driving it normal... it has almost 5000 on it.. new mitsu oil pump at build, mobil 1 full syn 10w30 oil.. have changed the oil 3 times since build. had 1 thousandths of oil clearence on main and rod bearrings when i built it.. all i can think of is that the old turbo i had went through a MAJOR bearing failure while it was in the car.. but i have always used k&n oil filters...

Well there yours your problem. Oil filters are not going to filter out metel shavings. Once its in the oil and you keep running it, the shavings will eventually destroy mains/rods bearings.

 

[randyknight]

im sure the damage is done my friend.. i will see...

 

[fstfbdy]

Id cut open one of those oil filters and check for metal.

 

[l314ckhe4rt]

not trying to bomb your ad. but i am having similar issues with one of my talons turn out to be the bearings and it broke. the oil pressure will be low at idle and increase alittle when driving, if you start the car in the morning oil presurre will be normal until car warms up and the oil pressure starts to drop. if this sounds fimiliar it might be the bearings that is about to break.

back to the bombing part.... i have another gsx fully built that have low oil pressure really low until i drive then it gets very high. dont know if its normal but when it gets low at idle i get kind of scared. i check to see if the oil is shooting out at the oil cap when i open it and it does but i want to know have any body have this low oil issue. bad oil pressure relay maybe?

 

[randyknight]

when i start it in the morning its alittle higher due to cold oil, but still lower than it was... im taking the ol pan off today or tomorrow (depends on how long it takes me to clean the shop out to get the car in there.. ).. i will post updates..

ok, drained the oil today... drained the oil pan, oil filter and oil cooler... almost no metal shavings in the oil ... like 5 to 10 very small peices of what looked to be brass, which i would expect due to the old turbo biteing the dust and the new one breaking in for about 45 miles.... what i did find is the pressure hose going to the oil cooler was leaking like hell.... i think this is my problem and i dont know how i missed it till now.... i will replace the hose and post update later to comfirm findings..

 

[randyknight]

ok fixed the oil lines for the oil cooler and the pressure came up alittle, but not back to where it was so i checked the bypass valve and it was stuck upen alittle. the spring seemed fine, has anyone heard of those plungers sticking before? i may need a new oil filter housing..

 

[randyknight]

the oil bypass valve was stuck half open causing this.... al i need is a new oil filter housing...

 

[empie1]

Good deal. But did you find where the brass shavings came from?

 

[randyknight]

Good deal. But did you find where the brass shavings came from?

came from the old turbo destroying itself... now its alittle high, but thats probably due to the bypass valve not being able to move freely... note to self and all " be carefull when you port your OFH and make sure you get all the burr's out and the piston moves freely before you reinstall it.." im buying a new one because i figure when it stuck it probably garred the piston and the bore alittle...

 

[empie1]

came from the old turbo destroying itself... now its alittle high, but thats probably due to the bypass valve not being able to move freely... note to self and all " be carefull when you port your OFH and make sure you get all the burr's out and the piston moves freely before you reinstall it.." im buying a new one because i figure when it stuck it probably garred the piston and the bore alittle...

Hell yeah...i always go over my port stuff with a "flapper" bit...smooths it out till its shiny.

 

[way2fastlaser]

i have fried 5 turbos because of this thank you for showing me what i was doing wrong im going to swap out the crank and bearings im sure its messed up good i get about the same oil pressure as some of you did like 5-10 HOT some times nothing sharing same symptoms of barring failure