Looking for Parts suggestions

[zsn0w]

The main question I’m having right now is what lifters to buy (or not buy). I’m rebuilding a 1G 7 bolt. Should I replace the lifters with ITM or topline revises lifters? I’ve read a decent amount about this and am pretty sure I should switch to the revised for the bigger oil ports, but I’m not sure which brand. If I’m wrong and I should just clean the stock ones, let me know.
Maybe I should start another thread for this question, but I don’t want to flood the forum with my problems. How bad/good are aftermarket harmonic dampeners to use? I don’t want to have to shell out for the crazy price of the OEM version. Any suggestions?
Thanks!

 

[Boomdeeze]

Swap in the revised lifters. Just use the Topline:
https://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=18474&cat=1351&page=1
Best harmonic dampener(Fluidampr):
https://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=20790

 

[1cleangsx]

I agree with using top line, that’s what I went with on my 6 bolt rebuild and work great There’s was some brief lifter tick upon the first initial start up but after that I haven’t heard any at all, even with cold starts on vr1 20w-50 racing oil

 

[1cleangsx]

Also in regards to the dampener, my oem unit began to separate and it caused a horrible knocking sound I thought was a spun bearing, I didn’t realize the pulley was shot until after the tear down, so I upgraded to the fluidamper for improved performance and because it can’t separate the way an oem one can

 

[zsn0w]

Thanks for the recommendations! I’m not sure if my build can benefit from the fluidamper enough to justify the price if I’m only going to be topping out at 300hp max. Are cheaper alternatives any good/comparable to OEM? Or is it really THAT much better for any build?

 

[Vegas Smith]

I doubt anyone will give you a concrete answer on this. However, I have heard of aftermarket pulleys having incorrect timing label marks.

 

[zsn0w]

I doubt anyone will give you a concrete answer on this. However, I have heard of aftermarket pulleys having incorrect timing label marks.

Dampeners don’t have timing marks though, right? I thought crank timing was indicated on the metal plate behind the timing gear.

 

[Vegas Smith]

You still need a mark to set the ecu timing to 5 degrees.

 

[zsn0w]

Didn’t think about that... that is worrying then.

 

[1cleangsx]

The fluidamper has the marks, I used them when I set base timing

 

[Ludachris]

A new OEM damper will be your cheapest option. From there you're looking at Fluidampr or ATI. Might be some cheap knock-offs available, but I wouldn't touch them.

 

[Boomdeeze]

Honestly keep an eye on the classified and buy the fluidampr off there, you will save a little. The fluidampr is worth it even on a stock car IMO. Ever seen what carnage the OEM causes when it separates?

 

[zsn0w]

Thanks for all the advice everyone. I’ll get the OEM or try to save up for a fluidamper if that part of the build takes awhile to get to.

Ever seen what carnage the OEM causes when it separates?

no, but I imagine that would be pretty awful. How many miles would that take, though? Seems to me like it’d take 200k for something like that to just fly apart.
I will keep an eye on the classifieds, though. I normally check them every weekday, so I’ll just add a fluidamper to my list of things to check for.

 

[Boomdeeze]

no, but I imagine that would be pretty awful. How many miles would that take, though? Seems to me like it’d take 200k for something like that to just fly apart.
I will keep an eye on the classifieds, though. I normally check them every weekday, so I’ll just add a fluidamper to my list of things to check for.

Yes it can take awhile and some last longer than others. For me it was more piece of mind that I didn't have to worry about it and only had to pay slightly more than a new OEM balancer.

 

[1cleangsx]

Here is a picture of my timing cover when mine separated. The drive belt for the ac compressor was eating thru it! This crank pulley however had over 100 thousand miles on it for all I know and I’m sure a new oem one would last a while and be fine for a stock rebuild, I just figured it would be a nice upgrade

 

[zsn0w]

Wow that’s pretty gnarly. I’ll definitely try to get the fluidamper, but we’ll see where I am money-wise when it comes time to add the dampener. It’s hard to spend an extra $100 over OEM when you’re living on a tight budget haha

 

[1cleangsx]

Dude that’s why my rebuild took a year and a half . With a mortgage and 2 kids it’s not a top priority but it pays to take your time and it’s worth it in the end

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

If you can hold off on the Fluidamper until Black Friday sales, you can get very good discounts from vendors on them.

 

[zsn0w]

If you can hold off on the Fluidamper until Black Friday sales, you can get very good discounts from vendors on them.

I’d like to believe I’ll be done with my build by then, but realistically I probably won’t haha. Thanks for the tip, I’ll probably try to wait till then and snag one!

 

[Vegas Smith]

Meh, I think I saved $20 when I bought mine last Christmas.

 

[ChessmoDSM]

When I went to do my timing job last spring(belt, tensioner ect ect) on a 92 6/4 bolt 27k mile car I found that the OEM Harmonic had separated already, it was lucky that I found it without traveling too many more miles..

 

[DSMPT]

Both ITM and Topline lifters are good. I have been using ITM lifters for many years without any issue.
ATI and Fluidampr are good but the Fluidampr is maintenance-free. So easy to use. It is better avoiding to use knock-offs.
FYI in case if you plan to buy an used Fluidampr. Make sure not to buy one that has deep dents on the side. it doesn't work well if dents are deep enough to disturb the flow of silicone fluid inside.