looking for feedback Dupli-Color "Paint Shop" paint

[mike96]

like the title says, I am looking for some feedback from some people who have used Dupli-Color's "Paint Shop" brand paint. specifically how it holds up on things with a higher flexibility like the front/rear bumper covers. does it flex well, has it spider webbed on you, Etc. Etc. I sent Dupli-Color an E-mail asking how it holds up but I would like to hear from someone who has used it personally.

the down and dirty is that I am working on doing a full color change on my car. I purchased some urethane paint online from a company who has been dealing paint since 1945 but I am very unhappy with the way it turned out. the color didn’t come out the way I thought it would and now two weeks after painting and have started re-assembling the car I am finding that this paint is scratching very easily. so long story short I am looking into some different options, may as well do it over before I get the car all the way back together... I have yet to e-mail the company in question but I am starting to believe that there is something wrong with the way the paint was manufactured, color didn’t look correct and now the paint chipping and scratching...

if you have used the Dupli-Color please let me know what your impressions are I would appreciate it.

thanks.

mike

 

[DSM1G90]

Was that online stuff PPG or some other brand? Did you do a clearcoat after the paintjob with sanding inbetween the coats?

-DSM

 

[92AWDHX40]

i used it not bad, even compared to omni paints, layed on good i have omni on now, good for the price, just 22 bucks a quart doesnt go far.

 

[mike96]

Was that online stuff PPG or some other brand? Did you do a clearcoat after the paintjob with sanding inbetween the coats?

-DSM

no it was Trinity single stage urethane not PPG and now that i have looked at their web site a little more i found that i have been mistaked... they have only been satisfying customers since 1998, right there at the top of the page. haven't done the entire car yet and there isn't suppose to really be any time between coats for sanding and what not. besides it was recommended i not sand down between coats because it is a metallic paint and i only did the engine compartment. prep washed the entire front end about 5 times with soapy watter using a green scrubby, primer a few spots that needed it so not everything was primered but that doesn't seem to make a difference, cleaned the front end with soapy watter/green scrubby again, wiped down the entire front end using a rag and acetone, sprayed down the tarps on the wall and the floor with watter from a bug sprayer to get the dust down, let it dry for about 30 min while i changed and got the air compressor running, sprayed down the floor and tarps with watter again, ran over the front end with a tack cloth, mixed the paint per the tech sheet (8 parts paint, 2 parts thinner, 1 part activator) hit it with a tack cloth again and started spraying with second and third coats about 15 minuets apart which is a little less than what the tech sheet on their web site recommends (20 min). this is what was recommended to me for the prep work.

i think there is something wrong with the way it was mixed from the factory. the color isn't quite what it looked like on their website and like i mentioned earlier it doesn't take much to chip it off. all you need to do is install a part and if you need to take it off to make an adjustment or over tighten a screw this garbage just peals up...

 

[scooby21043]

I have used dupli-color on my rims and tail lights and have liked it. No problems, works great and isnt too highly priced.

 

[fullCircle]

no it was Trinity single stage urethane not PPG and now that i have looked at their web site a little more i found that i have been mistaked... they have only been satisfying customers since 1998, right there at the top of the page. haven't done the entire car yet and there isn't suppose to really be any time between coats for sanding and what not. besides it was recommended i not sand down between coats because it is a metallic paint and i only did the engine compartment. prep washed the entire front end about 5 times with soapy watter using a green scrubby, primer a few spots that needed it so not everything was primered but that doesn't seem to make a difference, cleaned the front end with soapy watter/green scrubby again, wiped down the entire front end using a rag and acetone, sprayed down the tarps on the wall and the floor with watter from a bug sprayer to get the dust down, let it dry for about 30 min while i changed and got the air compressor running, sprayed down the floor and tarps with watter again, ran over the front end with a tack cloth, mixed the paint per the tech sheet (8 parts paint, 2 parts thinner, 1 part activator) hit it with a tack cloth again and started spraying with second and third coats about 15 minuets apart which is a little less than what the tech sheet on their web site recommends (20 min). this is what was recommended to me for the prep work.

i think there is something wrong with the way it was mixed from the factory. the color isn't quite what it looked like on their website and like i mentioned earlier it doesn't take much to chip it off. all you need to do is install a part and if you need to take it off to make an adjustment or over tighten a screw this garbage just peals up...

This is not a personal attack.

As for the color not being right... unfortunately that kinda falls on you. the color that is displayed on your monitor was not the true color of the paint you were seeing. this will very between monitors as to the exact color you are seeing. if you are not using a factory color code or are sending in a spec sheet for the exact paint color you have seen in person it will more likely never be exact unless you verified the color in person before hand.

Photographer's have to deal with this all the time when editing and printing photos.

 

[brian9397gsx]

i have used it on a motorcycle turned out great as long as durability not sure sold it a month after wards but it looked good covered the fairings good

 

[mike96]

This is not a personal attack.

As for the color not being right... unfortunately that kinda falls on you. the color that is displayed on your monitor was not the true color of the paint you were seeing. this will very between monitors as to the exact color you are seeing. if you are not using a factory color code or are sending in a spec sheet for the exact paint color you have seen in person it will more likely never be exact unless you verified the color in person before hand.

Photographer's have to deal with this all the time when editing and printing photos.

no, you are correct. i understand that what you see on the monitor is not always correct... i did briefly address with them and they basically said the same as you so i left that issue at that..... my biggest problem now is the fact that their paint quality is crap and after two weeks of cure time it falls off the car as if it was a piece of paper layed on the car... and of course they don't show any disclaimer or grantee of defects in their products on their web site either, but i highly doubt i would be able to prove that the can of paint i purchased is garbage as they will more than likely just give me the standard line of B.S. and tell me that i must not have prepped the car correctly. after all who is to say i didn't just pull the parts off and spray the car as it sat without doing any prep work at all.

and that sir is the reason why i have asked for others opinion who have used this paint i am looking into now as an alternative to what i am using at the moment. no point in continuing with what i have if it will come out looking like garbage when someone rubs up against it and half of it falls off the car. something that i should have done before i purchased this paint... o well live and learn i guess.

 

[fullCircle]

Buying crappy paint blows... and the fact they are not trying to rectify the problem... blows even more. I am not a paint & body man so i really can't give you a hands on point of view but i have watch plenty of automotive shows and that stuff seems to come out pretty well, of course take that statement with a grain of salt. we don't really get to see the long term effects from those shows either.

 

[mike96]

Buying crappy paint blows... and the fact they are not trying to rectify the problem... blows even more. I am not a paint & body man so i really can't give you a hands on point of view but i have watch plenty of automotive shows and that stuff seems to come out pretty well, of course take that statement with a grain of salt. we don't really get to see the long term effects from those shows either.

yea thats kind of why i was looking for some feed back from some people who have used it and may still have it on their car. from most of the pictures i have seen so far they have been of cars with little to no plastic, or if it had plastic it had been changed out for something made of fiberglass...

 

[DSM1G90]

mixed the paint per the tech sheet (8 parts paint, 2 parts thinner, 1 part activator)

Dang! Wonder what kind of specs are those, for PPG is 4 paint-1 reducer-2 hardner on single stage...

Way it looks like you were shooting the mix without enough hardner-why it didn't cure too well and was easy to scratch.

(Sorry in not answering your original question, but heard that Duplicolor is good stuff to use as well..)

PPG had a new paint http://www.tcpglobal.com/docs/ppgdccp.pdf that you can take a peek at ... and good luck - DSM

 

[68442]

The duplicolor stuff is lacquer, it will fade fast, chip easier. Your better offer getting some cheap urethane. How far down are the chips? metal? Primer? Something was done wrong or not mixed right, wrong temp etc.

 

[DSM1G90]

Lacquer is good for the climate areas that doesn't get crazy with temperatures.

For if you live in an area of hot summers and cold winters, that lacquer, which is hard as glass when fully cured, cannot flex with the change in temperatures as does acrylics and urthanes and will crack, spider web and peel.

Agree - use the acrylics and urethanes being there in the VEGAS area ... - DSM

 

[mike96]

Dang! Wonder what kind of specs are those, for PPG is 4 paint-1 reducer-2 hardner on single stage...

Way it looks like you were shooting the mix without enough hardner-why it didn't cure too well and was easy to scratch.

(Sorry in not answering your original question, but heard that Duplicolor is good stuff to use as well..)

PPG had a new paint http://www.tcpglobal.com/docs/ppgdccp.pdf that you can take a peek at ... and good luck - DSM

i will take a look at ppg's stuff again, i don't like their website it seems to hard to navigate. here is the spec sheet for what i was using shows the mix ratio on the second page... it did seem to take a little longer that 2 hours to get tack free, maybe there needed to be a bit more hardener in it than what they suggested.

http://www.paintforcars.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/urethane_kit_data.pdf

The duplicolor stuff is lacquer, it will fade fast, chip easier. Your better offer getting some cheap urethane. How far down are the chips? metal? Primer? Something was done wrong or not mixed right, wrong temp etc.

chips are only down to the primer so a little sanding will smooth them out quickly. like i mentioned earlier as far as i know i mixed it correctly i wasn't using a paint measuring but a regular measuring cup, perhaps that what screwed my up... i started at 2 cups of paint, added reducer until it hit the 2 1/2 cup mark then activator until it hit the 2 3/4 cup mark ( 2 cups paint, 1/2 cup reducer, 1/4 cup activator). the only thing i can think of is maybe it was a little to warm, i cant spray paint until about 9AM on the weekend because the #### across the street likes to turn me into the HOA when i brake the rules, so it was probably between 85 - 90 degrees i have already been turned in for running a business out of my garage and once for running the compressor before 9am on a saturday... and it wasn't even me, it was her next door neighborer. so i have to wait until 9 to fire up my gas compressor, or i have to borrow one from someone.

Lacquer is good for the climate areas that doesn't get crazy with temperatures.

For if you live in an area of hot summers and cold winters, that lacquer, which is hard as glass when fully cured, cannot flex with the change in temperatures as does acrylics and urthanes and will crack, spider web and peel.

Agree - use the acrylics and urethanes being there in the VEGAS area ... - DSM

thats what i wasnt sure on, like i said i have seen a few cars painted with it but not the factory bumper covers so i wasn't sure if it would have been a good choice for this application. thats why i ended up with a urethane paint to begin with.

 

[DSM1G90]

I did a search on that brand of paint and some results have been pretty disasterous. It's paint that you're gonna use if you're planning on selling the car later on.

Sorry on that - good luck - DSM

 

[mike96]

I did a search on that brand of paint and some results have been pretty disasterous. It's paint that you're gonna use if you're planning on selling the car later on.

Sorry on that - good luck - DSM

yea like i said unfortunately i didn't do enough research before i purchased the paint. got a response back from duplicolor, they basically said the same thing that has been mentioned before. not intended for higher temps no more than 150F, not flexible enough to be used on things like bumper covers... and basically they don't have anything that is either...

so i think here is the plan. as much as it is going to hurt i am going to go talk to the local paint shop i have been doing some business with and see what they can do for me. last time i went in there they gave me a price on some paint that wasn't to horrible but i defiantly didn't have the money to pick it up, $375 for a gallon and that included all the reducers, hardeners, and clear i needed to do the entire car. if i remember correctly that wasn't the cheapest i could get but it was pretty darn close. i still don't have the money for it now... but... if i can get a descent price on a quart and and enough supporting supplies to do the engine bay and enough of the cab to basically put the car together and get it running and drivable, then i will go with that for the time being and worry about the rest of the car later. so now i just need to figure out if i need to get rid of this garbage that is on the car now before i try painting over it with something else.

unless they recommend just clear coating what i have already. i mean it did spray nice and smooth, looks good all things considered just doesn't seem very durable.. i will be in there tomorrow to see what they say.

 

[ktgurl87]

we used the silver and blue colors on an '89 240sx. it turned out awesomely AND, besides having to clear coat THE HOLY CRAP out of it to make it shiny, it worked out beautifully. we even held onto the car for atleast a year i believe after we painted it. it held up really well... i'm pretty sure i can find a picture of it....

here she is:

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the quality of the picture isn't that great but you get the general idea. that paint actually lasted a really good long while and it still looked good when we sold it. as far as the bumper... it was still the original so that helped because it wasn't quite as uh... 'wobbly' i guess. we live in NC so it can get pretty doggone hot here as well... but mostly we just stay soaked. but anyway... there's no mixing or anything... strain it into your gun and you are good to go. try it, you might like it! good luck!

 

[BLINKY619]

yea i was thinking of painting my civic jet black... ive seen people use this stuff and it turned out really good... i mean it shined like a beast.... just worried about it no flexing with flexible stuff like bumpers...