The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

  • Update Your Password Today!

    We have implemented tools to identify member accounts using insecure passwords and will be locking those accounts until their passwords are updated. Don't get locked out of your account - update your password today, and ensure your account has a valid email address on file. Read more here...
Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support ExtremePSI

Long route (old school)

staticbrainwash

Proven Member
1,682
13
Oct 10, 2004
Midland, Michigan
Alright, i've been searching a lot on this and i can't seem to find exactly what people were doing to route this way.

I know it's not as effective or anything, but i'm still on a 14b. And i can't go shorter because my core is so damn long. But this is all for a diy fmic project. The total so far without welding is 320 bucks!

Anyway, the cold side routing to the uicp (dejon) is pretty self explanatory. I need pics or diagrams or instructions on how people maneuvered around the crossmember/toe hook/body for the hot side.

I don't necessarily have a problem cutting anything, but i'd prefer not to for times sake.

But yeah, i'd really appreciate anyone who diy'd this way to come and tell me how it went down!
 

LaN-

Proven Member
956
6
May 7, 2004
New Baltimore, Michigan
i don't have any pictures, but for a typical long route design. This is how it would go

UICP - out from the IC loop around to where the SMIC was and go up to your orignal UICP.

LICP - out from the IC loop around the frame and back to the turbo.

its a lot fo piping so its called the LONG route.

If you've only spent 320 bucks so far and you still have stuff to do, i don't think it was worth it. I coulda got you a complete short route IC kit for your 1g for around 100 bucks more.
 

Synapses

Proven Member
426
0
May 9, 2005
Dawson Creek, B.C._Canada
Yah, that is true Lan but it's been proved mathematically that the difference between long route and short route is minimal so I would say long was the way to go.
 

LaN-

Proven Member
956
6
May 7, 2004
New Baltimore, Michigan
i know the difference is minimal, but it looks like crap. ROFL

I can't get an IC pipe setup for 100 bucks. I can get the entire IC kit for 100 bucks more. I sell short route IC kits (core, pipes, couplers, clamps......everything) for around 450.
 

staticbrainwash

Proven Member
1,682
13
Oct 10, 2004
Midland, Michigan
I wanted to build it? I'm not asking for criticism, i'm just curious how people do this. Because to me, it looks like i'm going to need crazy bends to get around the toe loop, or to cut some of that section out.

And honestly 300 bucks compared to even the 500 for the punishment kit, or 450 for the ebay kit with crappy couplers and clamps. Money is an issue, so i've been picking up items as i get the cash, and this has worked out much better than just "buying a kit". I'm a lot more pleased when i buy something and build it as opposed to just slapping a kit on my car.

I spent 300 bucks on Hightempsilicone couplers (4ply), t-bolts, 5 bends and 3 ft of 6063, punishment j-pipe, and the 31x7x3 core. I will spend a case of beer for welding, and i'm hanging and fabbing myself.

I guess my main question is how did people get round the filter housing/toe hook area. Otherwise it's pretty self explanatory.
 

LaN-

Proven Member
956
6
May 7, 2004
New Baltimore, Michigan
I wanted to build it? I'm not asking for criticism, i'm just curious how people do this. Because to me, it looks like i'm going to need crazy bends to get around the toe loop, or to cut some of that section out.

And honestly 300 bucks compared to even the 500 for the punishment kit, or 450 for the ebay kit with crappy couplers and clamps. Money is an issue, so i've been picking up items as i get the cash, and this has worked out much better than just "buying a kit". I'm a lot more pleased when i buy something and build it as opposed to just slapping a kit on my car.

I spent 300 bucks on Hightempsilicone couplers (4ply), t-bolts, 5 bends and 3 ft of 6063, punishment j-pipe, and the 31x7x3 core. I will spend a case of beer for welding, and i'm hanging and fabbing myself.

I guess my main question is how did people get round the filter housing/toe hook area. Otherwise it's pretty self explanatory.

Don't think i'm giving you shit ROFL.

To get back to your orginal question. You will have to take 90 degree bends adn loop completely around the frame on the drivers side. A little bit of a fab work will be required, but it should come out good. I'd paint the pipes black if i was you.
 

staticbrainwash

Proven Member
1,682
13
Oct 10, 2004
Midland, Michigan
That was a debate actually. Either paint black, or leave the industrial piping look which i also like.

So a straight 90 will be able to get around all that eh? Hmmm, I'll give it a go.

I actually really like the long route look. Nice piping coming all the way from one side to the other with a big core in the middle. It's hot. Haha.

If anyone can dig up some good pics or something let me know. I found a couple things on here, but nothing really showing the process to get things to work.
 

staticbrainwash

Proven Member
1,682
13
Oct 10, 2004
Midland, Michigan
Yeah, i'm going to end up with a 90 and a 45 on the cold side (less bends than even the rre). And like the j, and 3 90's on the hot. I just know getting around the rad core isn't possible with the core size.
 

T9S1i

Proven Member
1,870
9
Dec 16, 2004
San Francisco, California
There are some pictures of a long route on the cold side here:

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/instructions/1gfmic/1gfmic.htm

Hopefully this helps.

Thats a top to bottom flow intercooler, i think he's asking about a regular side to side flowing intercooler, where he would have to run piping around the drivers side to get it to come in at a certain angle.



check out http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=212936&highlight=ebay that link, it shows another alternative to running short route piping with that kind of intercooler. My buddy/ mechanic Paul at new logics racing fabbed those up (two 90* bends)
Hope this helps showing you another option.... check out post #48 in that thread and you will see he made the piping set for another guy and they worked great.
 

staticbrainwash

Proven Member
1,682
13
Oct 10, 2004
Midland, Michigan
Looks awesome, and good suggestion but not quite what i was thinking. I'm trying to do this on the cheap. And since i don't personally have a welder, i'm trying to keep costs down that way too. Too much to weld and i might have to give the kid more than beer. I just can't have that, haha.

I can't believe no one has pics of the know how to do this. I just want to go in with a decent idea before i pull everything off and apart.
 

T9S1i

Proven Member
1,870
9
Dec 16, 2004
San Francisco, California
i think the general consensus is that the long route sucks balls. Its hard to do on a 1g. Thats why most people either went short route, or top/bottom flowing fmic. It can be done, but it sucks, if you want to go extremely long route, you can do it like the xs-power fmic kit, where you would run your tubing like the rre link (top to bottom flow fmic) and then run it up and over the side/side fmic and down and around back to the inlet.
 

MrBoxx

Moderator
3,727
119
Aug 19, 2005
Midland, Michigan
Geoff, if I had had my car when I was in Michigan, I would have shown you how I did my piping route (long route on a 28" core) and it might have given you some idea. I ended up buying some steel bends and cheap couplers to make it work.

On the hot side, I had to use a 45* coupler off the J-pipe, angled forwards towards the fan, that went to an RRE L-pipe that ran along the radiator, under the fans, in front of the motor mount, and under the WG actuator. All those little obstacles were the reason for the 45* coupler. From there, a 180 degree U-bend, cut to fit, which wraps around the radiator to meet up with the inlet of the FMIC.

On the cold side, I used a 180* U-bend cut in half to make 2 90* bends. The first 90* bend comes off the FMIC outlet, with the free leg angled up a bit. The second 90* continues from there to mate up with my Dejon upper intercooler pipe at the stock SMIC's outlet location.

I think the two 180* bends I bought came out to less than $80, the silicone couplers I used for the 45* and the reducers for the FMIC inlet and outlet were around $70.

By the time my car returns to Michigan, I'll probably have an entirely new setup. :D
 

force it in

15+ Year Contributor
127
5
Dec 11, 2003
Los Angeles, California
These are the best pictures that I have right now. My intercooler is 28"end to end. If you are interested, I can take some under hood pictures & some of how I got around the drivers side. Let me know.
 

Attachments

  • DSCN2566.jpg
    DSCN2566.jpg
    124.4 KB · Views: 759
  • DSCN3700.jpg
    DSCN3700.jpg
    131 KB · Views: 758

staticbrainwash

Proven Member
1,682
13
Oct 10, 2004
Midland, Michigan
Forceitin, i would TOTALLY appreciate some pics of the routing and how you got it through there on the drivers side.

Eric, the problem though with trying to compare the 1g to 2g in terms of routing is that the front end is a bit different. I have to go all the way around the core clear to the drivers side tire well. I don't know if you had to on yours, but everything i've seen on "long route" on a 2g looks a hell of a lot shorter than a 1g.

I'm really debating selling this core and picking up a smaller one. Pain i know, but if this is going to be entirely too difficult. . .

I could still do short route piping on the hot side with this, but the core will be totally off center.

Ugh, this is turning out to be a headache.
 

force it in

15+ Year Contributor
127
5
Dec 11, 2003
Los Angeles, California
Here are some pictures I took today. It runs from the J pipe to a 90(first picture). Then a small bend just below the alternator that points slightly towards the rear of the car (picture 2). Photos 3&4 are looking in from the drivers side tire. From there a 90 degree bend that will direct it towards the front of the car(picture 3). Now another 90 degree bend with a leg that goes to the intercooler. I didn't cut any pieces of the car to run the piping. I also bought 90 degree mandrel bends instead of 180's so that I could have a long straight piece after each bend. My local muffler shop did the welding for me. Once you finish you'll realize how easy it was.

Good luck.
 

Attachments

  • DSCN3913a.jpg
    DSCN3913a.jpg
    101.1 KB · Views: 688
  • DSCN3914a.jpg
    DSCN3914a.jpg
    126.8 KB · Views: 687
  • DSCN3917a.jpg
    DSCN3917a.jpg
    88.3 KB · Views: 677
  • DSCN3919a.jpg
    DSCN3919a.jpg
    79.2 KB · Views: 673

staticbrainwash

Proven Member
1,682
13
Oct 10, 2004
Midland, Michigan
2 questions.

#1, What is the angle on the bend around the alt? And is it possible to just run a straight pipe through there?

#2, On the last pic, it looks like you have an extensive ammount of coupling. Is that to compensate for the angle around the alt?
 

brandonzero0

Proven Member
376
2
Sep 1, 2005
Detroit, Michigan
Hey staticbrainwash if you want my brother can make your intercooler piping he's very good at tig welding and we have spare 2.5 piping we're alos in michigan other wise its best to minimize the length and amount of couplers when routing intercooler piping
 

force it in

15+ Year Contributor
127
5
Dec 11, 2003
Los Angeles, California
#1. I'm not sure of the specific angle, but it's less than 45 degrees. I just cut it & did a test fit. I'll see if I can get a better picture of it for you.
#2 I just used an extra long length of coupling (truck radiator hose). On the intercoolers maiden voyage I blew off a coupler on the cold (passenger) side. I just wanted to be sure that this never happened again. I run 25 psi daily & it has been holding up.
The coupler that you see in the third photo is just there to insulate the piping fron the O2 dump (extended to exit underneath the car).
 

staticbrainwash

Proven Member
1,682
13
Oct 10, 2004
Midland, Michigan
Brandon - I've got a couple welders already lined up to help keep couplers down to a min. As i figure, i'll have 5 (i'll still need things to be removable).

Force - Did you use an actual bend or just cut a straight pipe at an angle? I've got 3ft of straight pipe to work with on this so if i need to sacrifice some for a "bend" i can.
 

force it in

15+ Year Contributor
127
5
Dec 11, 2003
Los Angeles, California
I used an actual bend (I assume that you are talking about the one that runs under the alternator). A straight pipe cut cut at a slight angle may work for you. I really need to lift up the car to get a better photo for you. I'll try and make some time tomorrow.
 

Pro3racer

Proven Member
550
1
Nov 26, 2004
Stevens Pt./UW-Whitewater, Wisconsin
It was a bi*** to cut out, and can only be done with a cutter, that metal is thick. Basically its a metal box right there, with a little mount/support in the middle(you can barely see it in the opening to the right of the pipe). I cut the hole on one side, then went to the engine bay and cut the other side and grinded everything down, wrapping the edges with vaccum hose so it wouldn't rattle or rust. The toe is still functional, as long as you are clean with your cutting and don't cut to much, mine isn't anymore, after a hit with a rumble strip while at a lapping day and destroyed mine..nother story. The pipe bend is actually like a 175 degree angle, i had my buddy cut it and make the angle a little less, for your application a 180 may work, you need to test it.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Top