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Long route (old school)

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Your wish is my command....:thumb:
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Its an RRE J-pipe..
 
for anyone wondering, yes i am venting with a greddy type-s BOV, my car runs fine with it, but i am hoping to go back to the normal venting when i figure out how to. My BOV is on the bottom of my UICP next to my tranny, and facing the other way, so its not exactly and easy thing. Also, I need a new filter, and me exhaust was not bolted on in the picture.
 
Im doing my own right now too...

For me, it looks like taking a 180 pipe, then cutting it in half and making it work should be fine.

Ive seen some pre-made kits though that have like little 90's made for that side. You have extra pipe, just start cutting it into the right size for a nice bend.

Its a pain in the ass, but its all you can do...

I was also thinking about cutting that side piece out... looks good.

Dont know about you, but running under the frame and shit wont work. My pipe sits about 2" off the ground when I run it like that..........


Ill get some pics of mine this weekeend though. ###### wont help you anymore than whats already up, but itsa nice referance.
 
Yah, that is true Lan but it's been proved mathematically that the difference between long route and short route is minimal so I would say long was the way to go.

are you kidding me. You have no idea what you are talking about. Lets try an d fiqure this out so you will understand it. It's really simple.

The more pipe you have = the longer the spool time
The less pipe you have = the shorter the spool time.

spool time = the time it takes for the air to reach your motor through the pipeing it must travel
 
are you kidding me. You have no idea what you are talking about. Lets try an d fiqure this out so you will understand it. It's really simple.

The more pipe you have = the longer the spool time
The less pipe you have = the shorter the spool time.

spool time = the time it takes for the air to reach your motor through the pipeing it must travel

Hey hey, we all know the arguments behind it all. But i just want a fmic on for track this year before i move and get something better/bigger. I'm very content with how this will work so please no arguing.

PRO - It looks like you may have been able to pull off a full 180 through that if you hadn't taken an angle off the j-pipe.

Thank you everybody for the awesome info and pics. Keep them coming and i'll post up a truck load of pics when i get around to doing this (should be soon). I just need couplers still, then a chra to comp housing o-ring, and new exhaust manny (long story on that).

Comp housing is getting the interior polished, outlet will be ported, and the inlet will be cleaned up a bit. Exhaust manny will get ported in collector and polished in runners (2g manny). Otherwise the turbine is ported, the 02 is CRAZY ported.
 
are you kidding me. You have no idea what you are talking about. Lets try an d fiqure this out so you will understand it. It's really simple.

The more pipe you have = the longer the spool time
The less pipe you have = the shorter the spool time.

spool time = the time it takes for the air to reach your motor through the pipeing it must travel



Who cares. Unless its an all-out track car it doesnt much matter. It is a fraction of a sec. diff with what is being talked about here...

Maybe an extra 6-8" of piping here...Depends on exactly how its ran...



He said that its the way he's doin it, same with me, cause its cheaper, and more rewarding just to make our own.

So dont waste your time.
 
are you kidding me. You have no idea what you are talking about. Lets try an d fiqure this out so you will understand it. It's really simple.

The more pipe you have = the longer the spool time
The less pipe you have = the shorter the spool time.

spool time = the time it takes for the air to reach your motor through the pipeing it must travel

the difference is so minimal its not even worth arguing over. or you can run dsmlink or whatnot that has a NLTS feature and you only spool once! so its a moot argument at best

i know its not a 1g, but heres the "long route" piping on my 2g. IMO it was a bit easier and straight forward than trying to go straight from the IC outlet and up to the TB, and i think sometimes it looks better and less cluttered in the engine bay with the UICP in the stock location coming from the sidemount area to the TB.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/509528/3
 
Cool, thank you for the good pic. I might go that route if i can't hack through the body right there. I'll just cut straight pipe how i need and weld them in at the bends.

Thanks everyone, and keep things comming. I've got couplers on the way finally and thats the last bit.
 
are you kidding me. You have no idea what you are talking about. Lets try an d fiqure this out so you will understand it. It's really simple.

The more pipe you have = the longer the spool time
The less pipe you have = the shorter the spool time.

spool time = the time it takes for the air to reach your motor through the pipeing it must travel

Ok, I'll take 6 feet of straight pipe and you take 5 feet of pipes with nothing but 90 degree bends. I suppose you'll have a faster spool up than I will. :| Take a class in fluid dynamics. Until then, don't tell others that they have no idea what they're talking about. It's a bit more complicated than just the pipe lengths.
 
Anyone else have pics or anything of their piping. I finally got everything together and i'm starting to pull stuff apart. Bumper comes off today, then i clean as much as i can, then i start fabbing piping.

To those of you that went THROUGH the support on the drivers side, do you think a 3" hole saw would work to get through that section? If not, i'll just cut some straight pipe at angles to get around the alt.
 
You can try a hole saw, but that metal is thick and strong, so a plasma cutter was my tool of choice.
 
Anyone have any idea how to get the condensor out? I've got a tranny cooler (stock) in the way.

I'll search a bit, but if any A/T guys know how to get it out, let me know!
 
Yah, that is true Lan but it's been proved mathematically that the difference between long route and short route is minimal so I would say long was the way to go.

Supporting links?
 
Alright, pics everyone!

Partially mounted, lookin' pretty!
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We didn't Eff around!
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Fabbing the cold side, that was the easy side, haha.
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Hot side was a little tricky. Cutting holes in the car ftw!
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HOLE!
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INTO THE ENGINE BAY!
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Finished cold side!
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More work on the hot side. We had to drill, and sawzall, and die grind because no one had a plasma cutter. Took FOREVER.
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Hot side almost done
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Almost looks like it belongs there!
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SEXY!
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Final product with bumper on. VERY little trimming required. Just needed to grind a little to clearance the piping from the core. (Ignore the car duster, haha)
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^^^

Everything looks good now, but damn didn't you have a hole saw? LOL I know its a little thick right there, but I would have fought with it.
btw, is that a JRC core?

I cut the tow hook off and cut a half circle under the support. It works, and works well, but I don't like how it looks from the front because the hot side looks like it sags. Problem is, can't go through the support because of my oil cooler. I'll make it work until I go short route with a translator though.
Edit:
I didnt realize someone had already suggested a hole saw, silly me.
 
Haha, completes the car :thumb: The pics were worth the wait. Where did you have to notch the bumper? I can't even tell, mission accomplished :p

:rocks:

Edit: Clean pipes coming out behind the bumper. Sexy.
 
Had to notch the little Pieces next to where the stock fogs go. On either side on the vertical part for the piping. I'll take a pic of how close i got it to sit. It's hot.

I gotta give props to my buddies adam and don for helping with the fab and welding. That aluminum was a PITA to get to actually take a bead.
 
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