ECMlink LOG Review slow spool and intermittent issues

[bigdnno98]

Ok so I'm pretty sure I have a couple of non-related issues. First, my old school FP Green is spooling very slowly for what it is. I'm guessing 700-800 RPMs slower than it should. I've boost leak tested this car numerous times. Last 2 in a row have came back with 0 boost leaks. I'm thinking possible exhaust leak but I haven't noticed anything. I'll get a closer look this weekend. Next is an intermittent hesitation that almost feels like spark blowout. I'm thinking it's a TPS issue though. Current plugs are BPR7ES and gapped to .025. I'm going to put BR7ES gapped to .022 tonight and see if it improves. I'm noticing some weird TPS values in the logs though that's why I think it's TPS related. Finally, on the logs, the boost curve starts to break up and stop building boost up top, around 22psi. Weird, the car also goes a little rich when this happens. I think my POS Greddy BOV is opening but I can't be sure. The car is too loud to hear the BOV opening but I'm not sure what else it could be. I have 15psi WG springs in so I doubt that's it. Car runs pretty good minus these issues. Mods are below. Please let me know if you notice anything in the logs that would point to the cause of any of my issues.

99 GSX MT
stock 6 bolt swap
old school FP Green, stock non-ported exhaust mani
HKS 272 cams
e85
FIC 1120 low Z
Wally 255
PR O2 with 38mm tial mvs and open dump
Megan 3" DP
Apexi 3" exhaust
3" intake pipe with K&N filter
tuned on V3 with SD (AEM 3.5bar MAP, AEM IAT, AEM UEGO)
dedicated vacuum line from port "p" on the 1G TB to the POS Greddy BOV
dedicated line from the turbo compressor cover to the 38mm Tial external WG
Hallman MBC

 

[gofer]

...post a log.

If the BOV were opening under boost then it would do the same while you're performing a BLT, you are testing for boost leaks up to your max boost pressure setting, right? If you're running 25psi then you need to at least test to 25psi for leaks.

How much boost are you trying to run and at what RPM are you expecting it at?

 

[bigdnno98]

sorry forgot to attach files I boost leak tested it to 35psi and plan on running 30 but am at 25psi right now while I figure out what's going on.

 

[bigdnno98]

I am expecting 20PSI around 3800, I'm not getting it till around 4300-4500.

 

[gofer]

Check mechanical timing and do a compression check. I'd also run a line directly from the turbo to the wastegate to eliminate the MBC as the problem. There's also a possibility that the flex section in your downpipe has collapsed creating a restriction in the exhaust so the turbo is having a hard time spooling...

Was this something that just started happening or were you getting 20psi on a 16g by 3.8k and then you installed the OS FP Green and now you're getting 20psi by 4.4k? Just trying to figure out how you've determined that it's spooling slower, if it was an expectation or without changing anything it just started spooling later in the RPM band.

 

[bigdnno98]

I've determined that it should spool 20psi by 3800rpms by looking at dynos/logs of other cars with very similar setups. Of course not all setups are created equal but an old school green is an old school green and spool should be within a couple 100rpms if all else is similar. The DP is new so the flex section is fine, I will check mechanical timing this weekend, that is next on my list of things to do. I haven't compression tested the motor. I bought the car in FEB, already 6 bolt swapped. It had the freshly rebuilt FP Green on it already. It had sat for a couple of years so I did a bunch of maintenance on it, converted from IWG to EWG and did the injectors and V2 to V3 upgrade and put it on corn. I've bypassed the MBC and gone from the compressor cover to the EWG, spool is the same and the MBC is new.

 

[gofer]

Is there a catalytic converter on it still, or any crushed sections of exhaust? Any restriction, whether it's a collapsed DP or not, will cause spool up issues...

 

[bigdnno98]

Nope, no restrictions. No cat no nothing. I'm gonna pull the turbo this weekend and look for signs of a cracked or leaking manifold or turbine housing. I'm guessing an exhaust leak, pre-turbine is going to be the only option I haven't checked out yet at this point. I ordered a new NGR BOV from the group buy also, hoping that at least works better than this POS greddy. I hate that thing.

 

[gofer]

It sounds like you've got a plan and hopefully you find something. I'll take a look at the logs when I get home from work to see if there's something that can be done to help spool-up with the tune.

 

[bigdnno98]

Thanks for your help.

 

[gofer]

After reviewing your logs, you've got to do a fair test to get a true idea of spool-up. You're doing a 4th gear pull from 3.5k, how do you expect it to hit 20psi at 3.8k when you start the pull at 3.5k in a taller gear?

Before you tear your car apart trying to find a problem that may not exist give the turbo a fair chance to prove itself. You need to do a 3rd gear pull from 2.5k, put the pedal to the firewall at 2.5k and don't lift...

 

[bigdnno98]

I know what you're saying. I'll have to grab one. I know I have one somewhere but I'll just grab another one. It did pretty good tonight. I put new BPR7EIX in tonight and gapped them to .022 but the car is still breaking up around 7k. I'm fairly confident it's still spark blowout. Just weird that it's still doing it at .022. I'm going to put some BR7ES in tomorrow and gap them to .020 and see if it goes away. The car ran decent other than that. I didn't do any 3rd gear pulls from low RPM so I'll do that tomorrow. Logs from tonight.

 

[jery1234]

Looking at the logs first thing that I see is very low voltage.

 

[bigdnno98]

Yeah, I had a shop do a battery relocation and now the car wouldn't start yesterday morning. I'm going to bring it back to them Friday and ask WTF did they do to it. I have a brand new alternator and a new red top optima.

 

[bigdnno98]

Pretty sure I have worse issues now though. I think I spun a rod bearing. I started noticing a faint knocking Friday night at the track. I drained the oil yesterday. Seemed to be some tiny bits of something in it but they weren't magnetic. I pulled the injector clips one at a time to see if the knocking would go away, but it didn't so now I'm confused. I'm going to pull the oil pan this week, may tonight and go from there. I'm dropping off my spare block and crank Friday to the machine shop just in case

 

[bigdnno98]

Well not a spun rod bearing. Knocking goes away when I push the clutch in so not sure what is going on.

 

[gofer]

The symptoms you're describing sound like a bad throw out bearing.

 

[bigdnno98]

Man, I'd be pretty happy if that's all it was. The car shifts like butter though? I'm gonna monitor and see if it worsens.

 

[bigdnno98]

Well, the alternator i bought 700 miles ago is toast. FML. I just ordered an OEM reman from rockauto. Hopefully that lasts longer than the autozone one . I have a bunch of parts to put on while I'm waiting on the alternator to come in so, I'll get back to this potential clutch problem then. A buddy this morning said the sound was normal for 6 puck clutches with LWFW. Not sure, but i'll be getting 2nd and 3rd opinions for sure.

 

[gofer]

...LWFW?

 

[bigdnno98]

lightweight flywheel

 

[gofer]

Strange, never heard LWFW before. A rattling is normal for car's running twin disk clutches, if you've got a single disk and it's doing it then there's a problem.

 

[bigdnno98]

LWFW must be a BMW thing we have DMFW stock

 

[boost97gst]

How does your crank pulley look? Check thrust/end play yet?

 

[bigdnno98]

I checked the crank end play. None. I was a little worried about CW but I went and checked crank play, clutch adjustment, etc. all was fine.