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Little help.

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EagleAWD

Probationary Member
25
0
May 11, 2004
Westchester, New York
OK, here is the problem. I just got a 1G DSM, it is my first and I am learning. I have the following setup.

90 Talon TSI AWD
Free Mods
K&N Filter
Buschur AFPR (40psi at idle with vacuum tube off)
Catco Free Flow Cat
Buschur 2 1/2 Catback
S-AFC2(All wired in except the air correction wires)

I don't have the S-AFC correction wires installed because I didn't have a datalogger yet and I thought I shouldn't wire in those and tune without a logger. I have a datalogger coming in and once it gets here I can tune.
Well I am getting a couple problems. First it is really rough at idle, if I rev it up then let off the gas when it comes down it really wants to stall, sometimes it actually does stall. Also the knock reading on the S-AFC seems like crazy high, when I go into setting knock it reads like around 150 at idle, but when you just go to monitor then it reads like 20, so I am not sure why those readings are different. So I know the knock comes from running lean, but with the AFPR set 3psi over stock, only a couple minor parts installed and running on stock fuel maps I wouldn't think I am running lean. So I thought I would ask the people who know this car well. The DSM is a second car, so I am not gonna run it til I get the datalogger and I can tune it properly, the only other thing that is odd is that the car was inspected earlier in the day and it came up great, HC and CO were really low, running really clean. So I am not really sure what is going on. If you have any ideas please let me know.
Thanks alot guys!
 
If youre Venting the BOV thats probably why it wants to stall.

The knock reading on the S-AFC 2 isn't really accurate, i wouldn't tune by it.

You can wire it up fully and just leave all the corrections at 0 until you get a logger.
 
CanadianTSi said:
If youre Venting the BOV thats probably why it wants to stall.

The knock reading on the S-AFC 2 isn't really accurate, i wouldn't tune by it.

You can wire it up fully and just leave all the corrections at 0 until you get a logger.

No the BOV is plumbed back into the intake, just like stock. I have the crushed BOV mod but it seems to be working perfectly so I don't think that is the problem. I removed the small honeycomb on the MAS, I am certain I did the right one, checked it over with several different sources to make sure of that. But that will increase the amount of unmetered air correct? So that means the MAS is reading less of the air getting in. If that is the case would that mod be enough to start running lean? Does it just mean I need to richen it up. I tried pumping up the fuel pressure but it didn't help, maybe need to lengthen the injector pulses. Also how do you reset timing back to 5*. Not sure if my timing is advanced or not, only had the car about 2-3 weeks and still figuring out everything that was done to it.
 
EagleAWD said:
I removed the small honeycomb on the MAS, I am certain I did the right one, checked it over with several different sources to make sure of that. But that will increase the amount of unmetered air correct? So that means the MAS is reading less of the air getting in. If that is the case would that mod be enough to start running lean? Does it just mean I need to richen it up.

Did you read somewhere that removing the honeycomb was a good idea? If you did, then that's wrong. Think about it; you just removed a section of metered air, so the ecu doesn't know the true amount that's going into the car. But in reality there is more air coming in then fuel that it's providing. I could see that causing the vehicle to want to stall, and not run properly. Sorry, but hacking the maf and removing honeycombs is always a bad idea.

EagleAWD said:
I tried pumping up the fuel pressure but it didn't help, maybe need to lengthen the injector pulses. Also how do you reset timing back to 5*. Not sure if my timing is advanced or not, only had the car about 2-3 weeks and still figuring out everything that was done to it.

Just run the stock fuel pressure. I'm not sure what it is for a 1g, something like 38psi. And like CanadianBacon ( :p ) said above, wire up the safc in full and just leave all the settings at zero; that will act like it's not even there. Just make sure you set up all the menus correctly (4cyc, karmen maf...)
 
Blk_99gst said:
Did you read somewhere that removing the honeycomb was a good idea? If you did, then that's wrong.

Yes I did read it somewhere, on this site. It was right at the top of the tuning guide.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/tuning-guide/1gturbo/stage1power.php
I kinda thought that it was a reliable source. I wasn't going to pull it first, but I thought that I should ask around first. so I checked with some other people who have done it and they said it was a good mod, no harm. So I went ahead and pulled it. If that is the problem then I should be able to resolve it with a proper tuning, so hopefully that is it.

Blk_99gst said:
Just run the stock fuel pressure. I'm not sure what it is for a 1g, something like 38psi.

It is listed as 37psi, but it was running really rough at that pressure, when I brought it up to 40 it smoothed out a little, knock was still high though. It may be the case that the SAFC Knock is not accurate as stated above, but it definately feels like it is running rough. Hopefully when the logger comes in I can get a better idea of what is going on.

Thanks for the help so far guys. :thumb:
 
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