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FP Green Guys: Little Help?

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hardware

20+ Year Contributor
38
0
Nov 11, 2002
Wichita Falls, Texas
Yeah, I wanted to get a FP 3065, but it would appear that I don't have $13k to do it right. I'm pretty sure that I want to go with a FP Green on my 91 AWD. I've got a few questions though. Is anybody running a 1g DSMLink on theirs yet? I'm looking for low 12's and a better street car out of mine, so I'm wondering about driveability issues that can come up from using just an SAFCII or another type of piggyback system. I'd appreciate any help that ya'll can give me. Thanks for the space!
 
See, I was looking at the EVO III GT and the SB Bastard 20g, but for the price of the SB 20g, you might as well go with a Green, and the 16g seems small for turning the boost up when you want to go to the track later. I should really rebuild the motor in my car anyway, so I've been pricing stuff for about 4-450hp.
 
i put down 458 hp and 385 tq on my green with 26psi and race gas.

stock bottom end and head
 
hardware said:
See, I was looking at the EVO III GT and the SB Bastard 20g, but for the price of the SB 20g, you might as well go with a Green, and the 16g seems small for turning the boost up when you want to go to the track later. I should really rebuild the motor in my car anyway, so I've been pricing stuff for about 4-450hp.

Low 12s and 450hp doesn't compute.

With 450hp, you had better be in the mid 11s.

Do NOT get the Evo III GT. It is a copy of unknown quality. Get the real thing if you want a reliable turbo that is capable of running in the 11s.
 
I’d be thinking long and hard before going green. From the questions your asking you would probably be faster with a smaller turbo. To much turbo with to little experience leads to trouble.

If you using the green to any of its potential you need full control over fuel and timing if you want to do anything with pump gas. If your using any bit of the 50 trims efficiency then the amount of air you will be lying to the ecu about with an afc or similar will totally fubar how you ecu implements the timing.

Oh yeah, and I’m gonna cover my ass here. I know people have run 6’s at 190 mph on pump gas with the afc hack this hack that hack the hood whatever. I’ve seen these super fast cars, and they aren’t street cars. You don’t hand the keys over to a sober driver with one of these cars, you don’t drive them on a snowy day, and you don’t let your mom borrow it to get groceries.
 
danl said:
If you using the green to any of its potential you need full control over fuel and timing if you want to do anything with pump gas. If your using any bit of the 50 trims efficiency then the amount of air you will be lying to the ecu about with an afc or similar will totally fubar how you ecu implements the timing.

Correct me if I'm wrong (and I usually am), but doesnt the 1g DSMLink cover all of these aspects? I've never once been planning on running an SAFC on this car, not from day one. I realize that it's a great tool, however, the 1g DSMLink is at a friggin awesome price for it's adjustability and user-friendliness.

Oh, and I said mid 12's because A) I don't have a lot of experience SERIOUSLY racing and B) I'm trying to be conservative.
 
Ahhh, misread then. Green and at least 650's, may as well go at least 750's though with the dsmlink. Put a minimum of a 255lph pump on it and either raise your base FP or get a FP regulator. With a nice 3" exhaust, and an OK fmic+charge piping you'll be in good shape. As in you should be doing 12's at 108-110 on pump gas easilly with that setup.

As long as you don't have puke and die 90 cams ROFL
 
My plan for the motor is:

Wiseco 9.1:1 pistons
1g Big rods
FP2 Cams
Extrude Honed intake
Slowboy cast exhaust w/ Tial wg on #1 runner
ATR exhaust w/ 3" o2
Crower valvesprings
750cc injectors on a -6AN stevetek fuel system w/ 255HP
Dejon Tool race FMIC w/ blowby MAFT

Yeah and all the porting, machining, polishing, and whatever else they can come up with between now and the time I find a decent 6-bolt I have money for.
 
Don't forget some ARP headboltd and rodbolts. When you go with ARP rod bolts you need the rods align honed. You might want to price this with buying a set of rods with ARP's allready installed and make a decision then.

If your looking at low 12's at 112-114ish then a stock headgasket is what I'd use. A headgasket is a cheap weak link as compared to pistons and/or piston rings.
 
Already bought the JAM gasket kit with the Cometic HG, as well as their billet main caps. The block is going to have to be align honed anyway, so I figured I'd have FFWD hook up one of their butcher cranks. Maybe I can get my Eagle's again for $320
 
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