Lifter Tick [merged] Revised lifters 3rd Gen Generation 3g

[95talontsi]

I am fixing my valve tix by taking out the lifters or the auto valve lash adjusters. I have the valves cover off, the engine is at top dead center and I am on 3# cylinder. I got instructions off the net, now with either a tool or a standard screw driver press down on the valve and remove the rocker arm then remove the lifter. Which then I will clean out.
The question is where do I push down, The valve has the spring around is and the metal cap on top of that( forget the name of that) where do I push down with out damaging anything, I will probably have to push a bit so I do not want to damage anything. please help?

 

[doodie]

10w40 non synthetic, try that first before you spend so much money on replacing those lifters. Mine had a lifter tick too, but after I switched to 10w40 non synthetic and the tick went away once the lifters get lubed up with thicker oil.

 

[sallystrothers]

That doesnt always work (10w40). It seems that the different oils just change the interval in which the lifters tick. I used to have 5w30 and they things would only tick after warmed up. Then I changed to 20w50 and the lifters would only tick at warmup, and not afterward.

 

[sallystrothers]

One more thing... does anyone know if ticking lifters are covered by a bumper to bumper warranty? I have a full warranty and I am not sure if they fall under the general maintainence category.

 

[BlkBird]

Alright so...I brought my car to the mechanic got it all fixed, ALL new lifters, Rods, bearings, replaced it all. He checked the cams, he said they were fine. So i bought some rims, exhaust, and he put those on. Now I got the car back, it still has lifter..hardcore, it didnt get better at all, Maybe a TAD. Is this normal? does lifter tick not go away? Is there anything i can do? I always run 93 octane in it anyway, have since i got her. I heard that helps, but if i've been doing that all along, obviously i cant go like..100 octane...haha. ANyhoo, just lookin for some feedback before i go and bi*** the guy out, and get my 800 bucks back . Lata

 

[rockice]

u shouldnt have lifter tick if he replaced them unless u just got it. it should clatter at first but then should go away after a bit but if it didnt go away i doubt he even changed the lifters

 

[benleyd19tx]

Good god, get a real mechanic. If he can't tell a rod knock from a lifter tick, he should be damned to work on Ford Escorts for the rest of his days

:laugh: BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHA!!!!!!:laugh: :laugh: Werd.

 

[TalonRacer18]

try putting a capfull of a/t fluid in her when you change the oil next time.

 

[hondakid_2001]

hi i have a 95 eclipse GST, with a 97 motor put in it the motor has about 23,000 miles on it i just recently had it installed by a 5 star dealership so ya know i didnt jimmy rig it together. but anyways one night i started hearing a ticking type sound that i thought okay maybe its just my regular lifter tick, then it got louder and louder now it sounds like a horse is troting on my hood everytime i get it passed about 2500 rpm, i had a guy look at it he put like a stethescope on it or w/e the things are he said it sounds like its coming from the head he said it doesnt sound like its coming from the lower part of engine, what does everyone think it is? all the way

 

[spoolup]

First aint a 95 and the 97 the same engine? 7 bolt, I think so. why not do the right thing a get a 6 bolt. Also its a 5 star in whos book, you local phone book? DSMs are a strage beast to learn, most mechanics think I am bypassing my PCV with my catchcan due to it being connected to the nipple onthe passanger side of hte head.

To answer your question I had the same problem, but yours could be 2 things that just happen to come to mind, 1) injector tick, can be detected by use of a test light (not a regualr one, but some mullet created one) do a search and I think you can get a Part number. Or one of the 2 emissions solenoids on the firewall, one on the left is the EGR, on the right is the EVAP. My evap would chatter like a mofo. is loud as hell, and people said it soulds like rod knock, I tested my theroy by disconnecting it for a few seconds and taking a little drive, 1 street is all that is needed. But to get a idea, rev your enine it should start to tick, then grab solenoid right at the end of the wires, you will feel it tick, that will be the one.

to avoid spending the dough on it, you can use a little math and buy a 10W resistor since that thing at operating specs draw 4.6A, and a 5A would be cutting it close, but before doing that you need to disable whatever it does. My money on the evap solenoid. It shoudl kick on at about 3K but since is screwed will just chatter. try it out mate.

but bear in mind that it allows the gas tank to vent, back into the intake none the less, so if you bypass it you may run into problems not disabeling everything it does first. But since its emmision related it is also against the law. So take heed.

The reason why you hear it in the head, is that it is amplified by the manifold, into the head. and hte injectors well lets figure why it sounds like it is in teh head??

 

[LightningGSX]

Does anyone have the part number for the revised lifters?

 

[jb talons]

I got mine through Prime Automive out of Irving, TX. Phone No. 888-855-9712. Part No. EHT-1913. $7.74 each. $130.84 for a set of 16 shipped to my door.

 

[DSMSPOON]

lifters are very easy to change...it only requires taking off the valve cover and thats the longest you spend...next take off the cams and bam they are right there and they just pop right off...shouldnt take you more then 2 hours to take off and put back together...

get a manual and a freind and do it yourselves...

its OILLISTIC!!!

 

[BlkBird]

Well i brought it back to the mechanic....9 days ago. Today he finally told me, that i spent 700 on new lifters rods and bearings for nothing, because it had nothing to do with them, its my number 1 piston, it has these scratches on the side of it, it was "ticking" against the cyl. wall. The problem now is, if a new piston will fix the problem, due the fact that the scratching bored the cylinder wider, so I'm in the best mood of my life. Spent 700 for nothing, now my car might not be able to be fixed, and in the past 30 days, I've had my car 5 of them..tomorrow i get to walk 10 miles to work. Man do i love my car. Shes gettin sold when i get her back. haha, sorry to see her go, but my god, way to many problems.

 

[King Salami]

sallystrothers -
They should be covered under warranty. I had mine replaced for free at 40,000 (extended warranty). If the dealer balks, go over his head & call the Mitsu warranty dept.

 

[jb talons]

Originally posted by jb talons
I got mine through Prime Automive out of Irving, TX. Phone No. 888-855-9712. Part No. EHT-1913. $7.74 each. $130.84 for a set of 16 shipped to my door.

That's Prime Automotive - not Automive.

 

[dsm5150]

i treated her to a oil change today.gave her first dose of full synthetic oil(10-30).runs a little smoother but now my lifters tick! what the hell.is this normal or should i change to a different weight oil?additives?if not im going back to my regular oil.
also i did a search and a couple people had the same problem,but no answer to what fixed it.

 

[tjstoner]

Replace the oil with a synthetic blend and you should not have a problem, full synthetic tends to shrink older seals and causes leaks and some noise on parts that it has trouble adhering to

 

[dsm5150]

does mobile make a blend?i looked for it,didnt see it tats why i said what the hell and got full syn.

 

[Defiant]

There are no "seals" on lifters, and the fable that synthetic "shrinks" seals is just that. Leaks are usually a result of a lower viscosity, same with the lifters ticking.

 

[tjstoner]

Originally posted by Defiant
There are no "seals" on lifters, and the fable that synthetic "shrinks" seals is just that. Leaks are usually a result of a lower viscosity, same with the lifters ticking.

I never said that there were seals on lifters , and there is a good amount of swelling of the seals that occurs with natural oil, syn. does not have these properties and tends to somewhat harden the seals , wich tends to shrink them. In order to take full advantage of synthetics, you must replace your seals and do a motorflush and allow the synthetic to adhere to the metal parts uncontaminated , thats why a synthetic blends works well for his application

 

[heavyD]

Originally posted by Defiant
There are no "seals" on lifters, and the fable that synthetic "shrinks" seals is just that. Leaks are usually a result of a lower viscosity, same with the lifters ticking.

I agree. The myths about synthetic oil are just that. The problem is that people with 10-14 year old cars with worn engines putting synthetic oil in their cars. Synthetic oil cleans all of the sludge and deposits causing any leaks or bad seals to be exposed. If you have a high mileage engine, you should replace your seals/gaskets before using synthetic. I have used it on my last three vehicles and never had any leak or ticking problems.

 

[thehyena]

synthetic oil is the shit but once you gosynthetic it's very bad for your engine if you go backto normal oil

 

[Kevin90GSX]

Originally posted by thehyena
synthetic oil is the shit but once you gosynthetic it's very bad for your engine if you go backto normal oil

yeah exactly dont even think of going back to the old stuff. If anything get the upgraded lifters that guy in TX I think it is has.

And call it a day.

 

[dsm5150]

would a syn-blend be ok?im going to give it a shot.thx for the help.

 

[King Salami]

Switching oils or adding ATF or any other oil additives (or changing your oil) will buy you a little time between episodes of ticking, but the fact remains that the old-style lifters have oil passageways that are too small to sufficiently lube the lifters.
I've tried cleaning my combustion chambers, adding 20-50W, etc., but no matter what I try, my lifters start to tick (progressively louder) at about 40, 000 miles. I'm on my second set of the old style. I'm going to spring for a new set of the '99+ lifters very soon (that place in TX has 'em for about $7 apiece). This seems to be the only way to eliminate it for good.
I've had my lifters quiet down for a month or so after cleaning, adding thicker oil, changing my oil, cleaning the combustion chambers etc., but the ticking always returns.
I'm running Mobil 1 10W-30. I don't think changing to a conventional oil is worth it (for a turbo'd engine).