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1G Lifter question

YungTlon

Proven Member
102
10
Mar 6, 2018
Pueblo, Colorado
Hello fellow dsm’ers. I have had yet another amazing idea of everything that can go wrong cross my mind.
SOOOOO! As it’s my first time building a motor (machinist will be installing rotating assembly) when it comes to after my first start up and my lifters are knocking at my door like a jehovas witness, is it okay to still rev it like you’re supposed to on a fresh engines first start up?? Can someone drop the link to a forum if there is one with this answer .. I know the lifters tick for quite a while on first start up but I’m more worried about my piston rings seating . There for on first start up planned on revving it from 1500-4000 rpm for 20 min before I take it for a drive .. will doing this while the lifters are ticking cause any damage? Thanks all!:)
 

ThunderChild

Supporting VIP
3,763
1,124
Jan 5, 2012
Rathdrum, Idaho
Personally I don't run new engines at that rpm unless I'm breaking in a cam on an old school engine.

Focus on getting some basics dialed in so you can run some load cycles on the rings. The lifters should sort themselves out with some time.
 

1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
8,563
4,463
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
Once the oil gets warm and thin, the lifters should pump up and quiet down. Did you bleed the old oil out and relube with new oil then bleed that out? 1g lifters have such a small hole that it will take thin warm oil to get them pumped up. Let it reach operating temperature and then do as @ThunderChild has stated. Idle tune to stoich tune while she is warming up so the rings aren't washed out if they are too rich. Then go drive it. It won't hurt it, stay close to home and come back and let her cool down and sort out any issues then go put her thru some hills then flats for varying the load and some mild boosting. Keep revs below 5k for breakin at my place. Everyone is different though. I might be doing the same thing this weekend if I get my sons 7 bolt finished. :thumb:
 

YungTlon

Proven Member
102
10
Mar 6, 2018
Pueblo, Colorado
Once the oil gets warm and thin, the lifters should pump up and quiet down. Did you bleed the old oil out and relube with new oil then bleed that out? 1g lifters have such a small hole that it will take thin warm oil to get them pumped up. Let it reach operating temperature and then do as @ThunderChild has stated. Idle tune to stoich tune while she is warming up so the rings aren't washed out if they are too rich. Then go drive it. It won't hurt it, stay close to home and come back and let her cool down and sort out any issues then go put her thru some hills then flats for varying the load and some mild boosting. Keep revs below 5k for breakin at my place. Everyone is different though. I might be doing the same thing this weekend if I get my sons 7 bolt finished. :thumb:

still not sure if I’m gonna use the same lifters I pulled out of brand new ones.. I plan on reviving the car kinda high so I don’t think the stock 1gs will do it . And I honestly have never played with lifters I just pulled them out of the head and threw them in a container of brand new oil and are letting them sit . And honestly I am going to be running my old tune and setup to avoid it being too rich on start up and revs .. and I am going to be running brand new cams and I think there might be a break in from what I heard where you have to rev it . I won’t know for sure until they show up at my door step though! So basically the car will already have a good tune on it for first startup (the tune it was on last time it ran). I know I’m over thinking it quite a bit but I just want the rings to seat as good as they can considering I’ve been spending every dime I own on this thing. I did see jafro start up his Elantra motor fresh out of a rebuild and just let it idle , but it was on used rings, pistons, rods, everything .. I’ve been told letting them idle on a fresh motor is bad for long periods of time and you should go give it a little rip as soon as you can get it warmed up by revving it a little 1500-4000. But I know everyone has a different method, I planned on revving it but I did not take into consideration that the lifters would be going ape shizz. I don’t wanna rev it if the lifters are ticking because I’m not sure if that’ll hurt something or just sound terrible but thin out the oil faster and make them quite up sooner.. thanks so much guys
 

Goldenugget

Probationary Member
26
15
Jan 30, 2019
Albany, New_York
I just did BC280 cams, springs, retainers, HLA, and revised lifters. When you first start it up just wait a couple of minutes for the lifter to quite up and carry on doing what ever brake in procedure you planned on doing. I would not worry about letting it idle for a couple of minutes on a fresh motor. By the time the motor gets up to temp to drive it anyways the lifters will probably stop making noise.
 

jed344

Supporting VIP
1,147
242
Jan 10, 2008
Waterville, Iowa
Little trick aswell for fresh engines. You can put a nipple on the OFH. It’s the same thread as the barb on the stock intake manifold for brake booster if I recall. Then force oil in and it will prime the pump and push oil to everything. Instant oil press at start up and almost zero lifter tick.
 

pauleyman

DSM Wiseman
7,265
2,191
Nov 19, 2011
oklahoma city, Oklahoma
You could also spin the oil pump by itself before installation. If you do this be mindful of balance shaft phase (if you have them) when you reassemble timing belt.
 

YungTlon

Proven Member
102
10
Mar 6, 2018
Pueblo, Colorado
Good info thank y’all, I did plan on spinning the oil pump with a drill . And I don’t have balance shafts , so I plan on spinning the pump but by the time it takes me to re assemble everything I might just pop in the 1/8npt and pump oil into the motor .. depending if the oil pressure I built by spinning the pump will go away / oil will drain back down within a hour or two
 

pauleyman

DSM Wiseman
7,265
2,191
Nov 19, 2011
oklahoma city, Oklahoma
Good info thank y’all, I did plan on spinning the oil pump with a drill . And I don’t have balance shafts , so I plan on spinning the pump but by the time it takes me to re assemble everything I might just pop in the 1/8npt and pump oil into the motor .. depending if the oil pressure I built by spinning the pump will go away / oil will drain back down within a hour or two
I don't see a reason to do both. An hour to drain back? How do you think the oil system operates with the car is running? Only difference is the oil would never get warm. I suppose one could also pour in pre warmed oil. Honestly I think you're way over thinking this.
 

YungTlon

Proven Member
102
10
Mar 6, 2018
Pueblo, Colorado
I don't see a reason to do both. An hour to drain back? How do you think the oil system operates with the car is running? Only difference is the oil would never get warm. I suppose one could also pour in pre warmed oil. Honestly I think you're way over thinking this.

I promise you I am just turned 18 and spending all my money on this motor and I just want it to be healthy because if it’s not I’ll have to wait a while before I can afford to re try the whole process!
 

1GAWD87

Proven Member
72
33
Mar 8, 2009
milaca, Minnesota
Little trick aswell for fresh engines. You can put a nipple on the OFH. It’s the same thread as the barb on the stock intake manifold for brake booster if I recall. Then force oil in and it will prime the pump and push oil to everything. Instant oil press at start up and almost zero lifter tick.
I also did this as a precaution. i had zero lifter noise on start up. I will do it again in the future
 

motomattx

Proven Member
3,499
1,327
Dec 9, 2010
wampum, Pennsylvania
Bleed those lifters before you install them, lest you run the chances of a bent valve! you can let the engine idle to seat the rings if you want, I let them idle for one hour in fifteen minute increments letting it cool down completely in between, then change the oil and go for a nice easy drive, has always worked fine, less than a few percent leakage in the cylinders, the crosshatch in your cylinders are what seat your piston rings, revving it not so good, especially if your lifters are not pumped up, you can toss a rocker that way, the 4g63T engine uses a roller cam, cam break in is really not necessary like it was on old V8 engines, the oil is better now and the hardening on the camshafts is better now. Make sure that you are using cheap Wal Mart of other conventional oil, no additives and no synthetic oils during break in, I consider things broken in after 1000 miles.
 
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