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Lets talk Ebay FMIC. Especially if you have one.

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chicagoavenger

15+ Year Contributor
981
13
Aug 17, 2004
Rio rancho, New Mexico
I have read a couple of threads on ebay intercoolers but just wondering which ones out there that are actually good? Allot of them have something that goes like this

"Good for up to 500bhp(I have seen from 350-600). all our intercooler has been tested to withstand more then 80psi pressure and it has very small pressure drop across the end tanks, at 15psi inlet the out let has 14.8psi that means it has only 0.2 psi pressure drop ,compare to many other intercoolers it is an excellent figure (some intercooler has 1-2psi pressure drop) also at the same condition, the temperature has drop from 120 degree to 28 degree ( and it is an excellent figure for efficiency"

Is the above statement just a bunch of bs or true? Has anyone tried the Megan racing FMIC? I think it's crazy to spend 700+ on a core and piping. I really don't care about name brands I just want it to work. Kinda like a Dave Brode part or Megan Racing or Johnny Racecar FMIC all cheap but effective with great quality. Here are just a couple of FMIC I'm talking about that look good but do they perform and will they last? Please chime in if you have a ebay FMIC or had one especially if it worked or did not work well for you. thanks

Megan FMIC

No name brand but has the standard psi and efficiency spill

Street Imports FMIC

XOXO Core but has good feedback on the core
 
Does the ss/xs power 2g fmic kit position the bov so that it can be easily recirculated like the oem position?

Also, does anyone know where to find the peice of pipe that you use on t25/t28 style turbo that positions the outlet toward the driver side of the car?
Like this one.........
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Dejontool has em for $50 and Im not about to pay that for that lil peice of pipe.
I guess when the fmic kit gets here I might can look at it and make something???
 

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skinnykenny84 said:
Dejontool has em for $50 and Im not about to pay that for that lil peice of pipe. I guess when the fmic kit gets here I might can look at it and make something???
I bought the Dejon pipe and it is expensive for what you get. They have improved the design since the picture was taken but I still had to modify it to fit my application. It was a little too long so I cut about 1" off the turbo end which also cut off the beading on the pipe. I beaded all my pipes using epoxy putty. JB Weld makes it and several others, I used Qwik Steel. You knead it until it's even in color and roll it out into a thick strand of spaghetti. Wrap it around the roughed up end of the pipe and smooth it out. It makes very functional beads and the putty method is easier and cleaner than the epoxy glue method described on RRE:
Epoxy
Clean up the end of the pipe, no oil or paint at all. Rough it up a little with at least 80 grit sand paper, rougher (36 grit) is OK too. Mask off a stripe of exposed pipe. Run a bead of thick epoxy around the pipe. While the epoxy is still a little wet, pull off the tape. This will leave a bead of epoxy around the pipe end that will help keep the hose from blowing off.
Here's a piece I beaded and have left over:
 

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DSM90AWD said:
Check out my new eBay c :cool: :cool: ler projects :D

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Top one is a clone of the Spearco 2-221 though uses a Garrettish bar-plate core with staggered internal fin design which I was going to test against my Griffin Top/Bottom FMIC.

I've been looking at some same sided intercoolers as well because it seems like they'd be pretty easy to setup and the stock fans could stay. How much did that one cost you, and who's the seller? Thanks
 
RiceKiller_TSi said:
I've been looking at some same sided intercoolers as well because it seems like they'd be pretty easy to setup and the stock fans could stay. How much did that one cost you, and who's the seller? Thanks

I got it directly from Treadstone Performance, but shops on eBay carry their products .

I kept both my fans with the Top/Bottom core with my 16G, but the TO4E turbo I now run would have have required trimming so just got a slim line. With that core, I ran the LIP around the PS radiator support and the UIP "short routed" thru the hole in the PS radiator support :dsm:
 
skinnykenny84 said:
Does the ss/xs power 2g fmic kit position the bov so that it can be easily recirculated like the oem position?

Also, does anyone know where to find the peice of pipe that you use on t25/t28 style turbo that positions the outlet toward the driver side of the car?
Like this one.........
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Dejontool has em for $50 and Im not about to pay that for that lil peice of pipe.
I guess when the fmic kit gets here I might can look at it and make something???


The bov is kind of in a wierd spot, but just get some copper piping and solder them together to make the proper bends to recirc.
as far as the turbo, you could also do what I had done too mine (see pic, I had FP do it for me while the built my T28)
 

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RiceKiller_TSi said:
Did you take any install pics?
I'll be dropping the front clip this week. Will post up a pic of the routing.

But as is, any BR style FMICs UIP will connect to the outlet via a 90* silicone elbow and the LIP is simply (2) 90* and either a 2" to 2.5" elbow to a 20G/Garrett or "J" pipe for a 14B/16G :dsm:
 
DSM90AWD said:
I'll be dropping the front clip this week. Will post up a pic of the routing.

But as is, any BR style FMICs UIP will connect to the outlet via a 90* silicone elbow and the LIP is simply (2) 90* and either a 2" to 2.5" elbow to a 20G/Garrett or "J" pipe for a 14B/16G :dsm:

Ahhhh... very good, very good. Can hardly wait for pics. BR style = Buschur Racing?
 
unlmtdndeavor said:
actually..i have. thats how i found out that it wouldnt fit. i started to mock up how to cut up the radiator support when i realized that it wouldnt fit the way i wanted it to. i lined it up and i noticed that if i relocate the outlet pipe to face the rear, that it would go right through the existing hole in the radiator support. rather than making comments at me, would you please just share what you found out when attempting it yourself.

so you want to make the pipe face the engine by going through the radiator support hole, right? now once the pipe goes through that hole you will run into another problem..... the alternator. if you notice the 1g sbr kit has the inlet and outlet on the top of the intercooler and is shaped for that type of inlet/outlet setup. the 2g ssautochrome intercooler has the inlet on the bottom and the outlet on the top. if you were to keep the inlet at the bottom but relocate it, you will hit the alternator. but if you move the inlet to the top, you will not get the best flow or cooling because it was designed to flow from the bottom to the top for best cooling in the middle. i think you know what i am talking about or trying to describe. you really should just route the tubing differently other then redesign the whole intercooler, as this way you use the intercooler the way it was meant to flow and cool.
hope this helps
later
 
ill post up a pic tomorrow, but i had the endtank relocated to make it rear facing. it is now parallel to the passenger side. i mocked it up on the car and it should fit very nicely, just that i need a 90* coupler or bend since the outlet is high.

thanks for the reply though
 
I didn't need to bend my AT dipstick. What I did was unscrewed a bolt that did not let it from twisting. Now the Dipstick is close to the maf sensor. Ill show pics later today. Also I fitted the stock tranny cooler on the passenger side with no need of brackets
 
I bought my intercooler from X02 racing I must say for the $200 shipped I spent it is extremely nice and the hot side is hot enough to hurt when you touch it and the cold side feels colder than the surrounding air. VERY well worth the money spent
 

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skinnykenny84 said:
Does the ss/xs power 2g fmic kit position the bov so that it can be easily recirculated like the oem position?

Also, does anyone know where to find the peice of pipe that you use on t25/t28 style turbo that positions the outlet toward the driver side of the car?
Like this one.........
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Dejontool has em for $50 and Im not about to pay that for that lil peice of pipe.
I guess when the fmic kit gets here I might can look at it and make something???

Why not use a 90º coupler? I use one on mine to go to the stock location and when I install my frount mount I am just gonna flip it around. I think it was less than 15$ at AMS and all I had to do was trim it down to fit correctly.
 

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myblack98gst said:
I bought my intercooler from X02 racing I must say for the $200 shipped I spent it is extremely nice and the hot side is hot enough to hurt when you touch it and the cold side feels colder than the surrounding air. VERY well worth the money spent

do you mind posting pics of how you routed the hot side piping? did you have to cut through the side metal?
 
thanks for reminding me I HATE 1g piping hahaha


I cut the tow hook off the side for starters. then the 180* bend around > 90* bend pointing up towards the engine till it was close to the front cross brace > 90* facing towards the turbo tilted out far enough to clear the radiator..

I will try and get a good pic of it.. if nothing else I am pulling it back out this friday so I will take a pic then.
 
exactly why i did not want to do a side to side setup. even when i was mocking it up i realized that there would be a lot to cut off on the sides, which is why i opted to do the rear facing instead.
 
m1nd64m3 said:
Why not use a 90º coupler? I use one on mine to go to the stock location and when I install my frount mount I am just gonna flip it around. I think it was less than 15$ at AMS and all I had to do was trim it down to fit correctly.

I dont see why you are using a 90* coupler to go to the stock location when the turbo already faces the stock location??

Are you using the same turbo? (t25 or 28)
 
RedTurboEclipse said:
Anyone pressure test their core's?

I saw this on another forum, its an SBR core..

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yikes.

Now thats what you call a boost leak. OMG
 
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