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* Leak * ~~~ Oil Return Line ~~~ Crush Washers [Merged 9-7]

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mockujin

20+ Year Contributor
48
0
Jan 6, 2003
Hey what is the kragen part number for the oil drain plug gasket? Or what do i need to fix the leak?
 
ddavisaf said:
Better safe than sorry :)
I know a ton of people that have both, I personally only use a gasket.

Well i only used a gasket this time and its leaking, but thats probably because i didnt use crush washers. Im going to try using washers, rtv, gasket, and permatex. That should take care of the leak.
 
Are you running a stock manifold? I have a friend who has an ss autochrome or some other tubular and it moves the turbo a bit and the stock mitsu return line wouldnt seal since its sitting at a different angle.
 
olmytsi said:
Are you running a stock manifold? I have a friend who has an ss autochrome or some other tubular and it moves the turbo a bit and the stock mitsu return line wouldnt seal since its sitting at a different angle.

I have an EvoIII manifold, i would assume thats not the problem since its basically a bigger version of stock.

DSMcrazy3: I wouldnt mind doing that eventually, but for the time being I have dumped enough money into this project. I'm sure many of you can understand.

I read somewhere that you may encounter problems if you over tighten the return line bolts, well i think i might have done that. I didnt know i needed crush washers, i think thats causing the leak, so i tightened the bolts down pretty hard to try and stop the leak. Can anyone give me some heads up on the amount of damage i might have done. Thanks guys.
 
I don't use crush washers usually.
My bolts lost the washers months ago.
Overtightening could mean you've stripped the two threads in the oil pan. Simply re-thread it. It'll take a couple of seconds.
Use thread lock when putting the bolts back in. Let it sit for 30 minutes or so before you go and drive it to make sure the thread lock cutes.
You don't have to crank the bolts down. But get 'em nice and tight. I don't know what the actual torque specs. for the oil pan return line are.
 
ddavisaf said:
I don't use crush washers usually.
My bolts lost the washers months ago.
Overtightening could mean you've stripped the two threads in the oil pan. Simply re-thread it. It'll take a couple of seconds.
Use thread lock when putting the bolts back in. Let it sit for 30 minutes or so before you go and drive it to make sure the thread lock cutes.
You don't have to crank the bolts down. But get 'em nice and tight. I don't know what the actual torque specs. for the oil pan return line are.

Thanks for the insight. Any other comments are welcome.
 
Well if most of you know me, i am a neat freak about things, and like to keep things clean, and what i did was pulled off the water line for the turbo on the front side (Banjo bolt goes through and 2 crush washers seal it around the head of the water line) to clean it, and i am pretty sure it is going to leak now if i try to reuse the crush washers.... i need to buy some things here someday, and was wondering who sells the crush washers? my next question is, when the bolt goes into the head of the water line, does it matter if the hole that goes through the bolt doesnt match up with the water line hole? i tried a few times to screw it in, and can't get the holes to match up , so i dont think that they are going to... any help will be appreciated!
 
They are very cheap, even at the Dealer. It does not matter where the bolt tightens at, the line is recessed at the end so oil flows through it no matter what. Kinda hard to explain. Just tighten it and you'll be OK.
 
ZachM31 said:
and was wondering who sells the crush washers?
Yes, any parts store should sell crush washers. You can use copper or aluminum.

ZachM31 said:
my next question is, when the bolt goes into the head of the water line, does it matter if the hole that goes through the bolt doesnt match up with the water line hole? i tried a few times to screw it in, and can't get the holes to match up , so i dont think that they are going to... any help will be appreciated!
Notice that on the bolt itself, there is a channel cut all the way around the bolt right where the hole is. No matter which way the hole is actually facing, fluid will flow through that channel to get where it needs to go. It makes absolutely no difference which way the hole faces.
 
Alright thanks guys, i just wanted to make sure before i put my engine in and drove around and found coolant leaks, wouldnt be my most favorite sight! haha, thanks again! :dsm:
 
Hey guys. I am about to re-install my 16g and I need to know what crush washers I need for oil/coolant lines both. I know there's some 10mm ones, some 12mm ones, and some 14mm ones, but I just need to know how many of each I need. I know there's 8 total, but which ones go where and how many?
Thanks
 
Nevermind, I just found exactly what I was looking for. I'll post it for anyone who needs to know this also. This is taken straight from Forced Performance:

The following is a list of the number and type of crush washers required for a complete installation on various turbochargers:

14B/16G/20G: 4 x 14mm, 2 x 12mm, 2x 10mm
T25/T28: 4 x 14mm
Green/Red: 2 x 12mm
FP30: 4 x 14mm

14mm fits water connections on all T25, TD05, and FP30 turbochargers.

12mm fits oil inlet on all TD05 based turbochargers for DSM.

10mm fits oil supply from cylinder head.
 
Just as the title says:

The Mitsu dealer by my house couldn't locate the crush washers on their system. They also had a hard time getting the lower oil drain line gasket.(too many options:mad: )

I would greatly appreciate part numbers for these.:sneaky:

I have a 95 Eagle talon TSi and I am swapping to a Big T-28.
 
oil return gasket MIT MR258477 ( from slowboyracing.com)

banjo bolt crush washers, 10mm ( for the oil feed on side of head)

the banjo bolts on turbo are either 12mm or 14mm so you need to find out the size of your banjo bolts on the turbo and get the crush washer according to the bolt head size
 
mitsupartsdirect.com has then for cheap. Just bought some for the oil line on the turbo. Paid like $3 for the set. They are a dealership that gives us DSM'ers a discount. Just contact Mike Deal and tell him you are a member here and he will set you up with a price. Pretty descent company, have had good luch with them.
 
diablos991 said:
Do I have to buy the crush washers from the dealer? Could I find them at a home improvement store?
You can use those big ring terminals in your electrical connectors kit that you'd never use for anything else anyway. You may want to snip off the crimp ends, or you could crimp them onto a wire and connect the two together, and when someone asks you "What's that for?", just go :rolleyes: :toobad:
 
Alright, I shot mike an e-mail. Hopefully I can get everything I need by this weekend. I want to get this thing in and reviewed.;)

Thanks for your help guys.:)

P.S. Difiant, I hope it doesn't come to that but its good to know that those will work.
 
I thought I would post the part numbers that I found in here so that this thread will be usefull to people who are searching for this in the future.

Exhaust manifold gasket: MD181032
Exhaust manifold to turbo gasket: MD128901
Turbo to O2 housing gasket: MD191897
Oil drain line to turbo gasket: MD198888
Oil drain line to oil pan gasket: MR258477
14mm Crush washers: MF660065
6mm Crush washers: MD050317
Turbo Bolts: MR187699

Thanks again for the help guys.:)
 
Maybe someone can post all the Mitsu part numbers for the 4G63 and various years so it's easier to find them in the future??? Maybe make it a sticky even.....
 
greengoblin said:
The two bolts that hold you oil drain line to the oil pan have crush washer as well that are not reusable. You need to get them from the dealer or oil will leak past the threads. Sorry I don't have the part #.

I was unaware that there were some on the oil drain line. I will update my list later today.
Thank you for letting me know.:)
 
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