* Leak * ~~~ Oil Return Line ~~~ Crush Washers [Merged 9-7]

[mockujin]

Hey what is the kragen part number for the oil drain plug gasket? Or what do i need to fix the leak?

 

[majik2k5]

I purchased my crush washers from Advance Auto for around $2 for a pack of 4.

 

[diablos991]

I added the 6mm crush washers to the list.

 

[lilGSXthatcould]

if you need some small crush washers for the oil drain going into the oil pan, go to your nearest diesel mechanic shop and tell em you need some small crush washers that they use on the injector lines, that's the only place I could find what I needed, plus he gave me a handful for a $1

 

[desolateboosted]

Ok I have just finished putting my car back together for the 5th time. Started it up sounds fine. Took the car for a test drive. Everything seems normal. Come back and look under, while looking under I see oil dripping from the middle engine area. I jack up the car and inspect it. It looks like the oil leak is coming from the drain tube where it connects to the oil pan. I have replaced that twice now! It's wet around the drain tube where it connects to the oil pan. I also see wettness around the bottom of the tcase. Looks like oil but I'm not certain. I have replaced the oil drain tube with a brand new tube and a new metal attachment & new gasket! It looks like it's coming from the two bolts that bolt the drain tube in. I've never seen that before. It's only leaking while I take the car for a drive. If I let it sit on jackstands and rev it I don't see any visible oil leakage. Someone help me pin point this please!

 

[gman991057]

Make sure that the oil pan surface where the seal is made is in good shape with no major grooves or cuts, anything that may give you a sealing problem. Go from there but also make sure there isnt any oil leaking down the backside of the drain tube. Gooluck

 

[Auto RS T]

Double check that the part of the drain line where it bolts to the turbo is not leaking, causing oil to run down it.

Those two bolts on the pan side of the line are supposed to have little washers that crush down and seal to the pan, if you don't have any installed, add some copper washers. Seal the threads too.

T-case

Check that the drain plug and fill plug are tight on the t-case. There are only three other seals where gear oil could leak out of the case. One at the tranny output shaft seal, and the other at the very rear where the driveshaft goes in. The third is on the driveshaft yoke itself, it is actually a brass plug, if it is leaking from here then you must clean out the yoke and apply some rtv to the inside. Let it dry 24 hours and re-install. There is actually a recall out on this brass plug.

 

[ITSME4G63]

had that on my drain tube, figured out that didnt have a proper washer on there, make sure you put some of that heavy duty orange rtv on the bolt while you thread it in, just in case.

 

[TSIfreek]

yea I need to do this next oil change. I couldnt figure it out eather and I guess its coming from the bolt threads.

 

[GVR4592]

Double check that the part of the drain line where it bolts to the turbo is not leaking, causing oil to run down it.

Those two bolts on the pan side of the line are supposed to have little washers that crush down and seal to the pan, if you don't have any installed, add some copper washers. Seal the threads too.

T-case

Check that the drain plug and fill plug are tight on the t-case. There are only three other seals where gear oil could leak out of the case. One at the tranny output shaft seal, and the other at the very rear where the driveshaft goes in. The third is on the driveshaft yoke itself, it is actually a brass plug, if it is leaking from here then you must clean out the yoke and apply some rtv to the inside. Let it dry 24 hours and re-install. There is actually a recall out on this brass plug.

Just wanted to add that if the t-case is overfilled it will leak out of the vent located on the top of the case.

 

[desolateboosted]

Ok with those two bolts not properly sealed how much oil leaking are we talking about? Because I hope RTVing them solves my problem. I RTV'd the gasket on both sides but didn't want to RTV the two bolts (figured I didn't need to). I sure hope that is the culprit as this is pissing me off.

I forgot to mention I redid the oil pan gasket using RTV only. The edges of the oil pan looked dry pointing around with a flash light. Right when I point it around the drain tube/pan is where it gets wet and appears the oil leak starts there. Going down further to the tcase it is also wet but I'm thinking the oil leak starts up where the drain tube connects and flows down to the tcase while driving. I've put it on 4 jackstands in 1st gear letting it slowly roll for a minute then immediately checking under to see if there are leaks. It ends up being pretty dry. It's only when I drive/boost it the oil wets the area.

I'm pretty sure its not the tcase as it hasn't leaked on me before. I've double checked to see if the oil is leaking from above and flowing down the tube on the outside. It all appears to be dry until I hit the connection to the pan.

I am going to RTV the two bolt threads and let it dry and test it out. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.

 

[mastadogg2]

so did that fix it? Im having the same deal, cept it looks like where the draintube connects to the flange that goes against the oil pan is leaking, not the seal to the oilpan itself.. is that possible? maybe rotted out or something? I put a new gasket on + rtv'ed it, and it still leaked....

 

[96TSiAWDBLK]

I had problems with the turbochargers DIY return line. NEVER buy this line/kit from them, just an FYI. The connectors leak through, the pipe is too long so it kinks and *can* blow out your turbo seals if you don't catch it, and then the line itself bleeds oil (it seeps through constantly). I ended up breaking down and buying the $90 line from slowboyracing. Stainless braided steel, RTV'd around the gaskets with Ultra Black gasket maker Hi-Temp and my leak was gone.

However, it was too late, blew the seals out of my Evo IIIg :'(

 

[GVR4592]

There is no gasket on a DSM that needs RTV, the half-moon cam seal is the only place RTV is required. If you combine RTV and a gasket, you just defeated the purpose of using the gasket, and you created four potential places for a leak to occur instead of two.


The -- represents a place for a potential leak.

Flange--Gasket--Flange

or

Flange--RTV--Gasket--RTV--Flange.

I'm not saying that RTV is bad, because it's not. It's just not a good idea to combine it with a gasket.

The stock flex oil return line cracks in the middle of the flex section frequently. It may drip down the line and accumulate on the flange and make it appear that the gasket is bad, when it's not.

 

[mastadogg2]

If the rtv is used right, you'll never have problems. I ussually only use it to help stick the gasket in place as I use the gasket.. just like you do with the waterpump gasket.

I redid the dumb oil return, used The right stuff gasket maker this time, if it leaks now then its a crack in the line itself. I was feeling up inside the flange area to and i felt a rigid crack type deal.. im guessing my lines starting to crack.. o well we will see if it leaks anymore.

how much pressure actually goes through the return line anyways when the turbo dumps it back down?

 

[mastadogg2]

I had problems with the turbochargers DIY return line. NEVER buy this line/kit from them, just an FYI. The connectors leak through, the pipe is too long so it kinks and *can* blow out your turbo seals if you don't catch it, and then the line itself bleeds oil (it seeps through constantly). I ended up breaking down and buying the $90 line from slowboyracing. Stainless braided steel, RTV'd around the gaskets with Ultra Black gasket maker Hi-Temp and my leak was gone.

However, it was too late, blew the seals out of my Evo IIIg :'(

now that sucks!

 

[desolateboosted]

Well I think I may have fixed the problem(rtv'd the shit outta the bolt/threads) but I still have oil leaking around that area. Although I don't think it's coming from the drain tube but somewhere else. I havn't been tinkering with it in a couple weeks so I'm not too sure where the real leak is coming from. I'll update as soon as I get to it, which may seem like never. :/

 

[mastadogg2]

Heres the fix. The right stuff, "gasket maker" I had to add alot of it, and I do think I have a slight crack where the pipe connects to the flange and this fixed it. Have taken car out now for around 200 miles and not 1 drop of oil in the area.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[ILLiCliPSE]

Im just wondering what size bolts are the bolts that hold the oil return line to the oil pan? Mine are slowly leaking and starting to ruin my driveway. I called the dealer and they didnt have them for some reason. Has anyone got them at Home Depot? I wanna make sure they'd have them before I drained the oil out of my car and have to put everything back how it was, only to drain brand new oil a week later, and add brand new oil...I dont wanna do it twice.

 

[lookinfor400hp]

Its the bolts leaking???Not the gasket?
Not to sure about anyone else, but I never has a bolt leak.Plenty of gaskets,usually when a bolt works its way loose from years of vibrations allowing oil to get between the sealing surfaces.

 

[ericbev]

Alot of people dont even dissconnect the returnline from the oil pan if they dont have to because of its reluctance to stay sealed. Did you crossthread the holes? Are you sure it is leaking out of the bolt holes? Anyways.... the parts number you can take to the stealership for the return line bolts is MF101229.

 

[IslandTSI]

You most likely just need some new gaskets which are $3 a piece from any vendor and some RTV silicone

 

[romeen]

The bolts are 6mm. If I remember correctly the thread pitch is 1.00, someone correct me if I am mistaken. Make sure you have the 6mm copper crush washers that go between the bolt and the flange on the oil return line otherwise it WILL leak. Some even use pipe dope or teflon tape on the bolt threads although this is not necessary.

 

[Elvenhome21]

6X1.00 sounds correct, I just bought a package less than a month ago. I think they are 20 or 25 mm long. Its the same thread pitch/dia (just longer) as the top timing cover bolt, if you need a reference.

 

[ILLiCliPSE]

Hey I just ordered the bolts and new gaskets from Mitsubishi...the bolts were like 93 cents each and the gaskets were $1.30 a piece....cant go wrong with factory stuff for that price . Thanks ericbev for the part number on the bolts!

 

[GST98BIG16G]

make sure the threads in your oil pan are messed up . Thats what happened to me , i had to take the oilpan out and rethread the two holes. By the way oilpan has like 20bolts to get it off , rethreading the two wasnt that hard . Good luck