HaveBlue83
15+ Year Contributor
- 546
- 86
- Feb 10, 2009
-
Landenburg,
Pennsylvania
(I just added a fuel lab 515 AFPR, new fuel filter and did the charcoal canister/vac tree/EGR delete. fuel delivery is MUCH better. my old OEM FPR was shot from the Wally 255. that issue is fixed)
Backstory:
I had my BS belt improperly tensioned by my "buddy"during the 16g install/maint overhaul weekend. After about 15 pulls the next weekend the timing jumped bad from the shredded BS belt. It went at 5K RPM's; enough to gouge the Intake HKS cam and of course the valves kissed the pistons. I removed the valve marks on the pistons with a dremel, smoothed them up so i wouldn't have hot spots the best I could.
I was at about 11deg of timing before the belt went and the car pulled very hard. now it doesn't....
After the rebuild (used head, 262 intake cam) my timing has to be severely pulled in order NOT to knock.....I now start at about 0deg timing at 3K when I go WOT, slowly build up to 5-6deg total by 6300 when it starts to knock. If i add a degree in any rpm it will for sure knock exactly in that RPM range. I cannot see what the issue is anywhere.
I can't really do anything else. i know i need to do a boost leak test. I have to make the BLT. I never did one before and the car scared me it was so fast on 11deg timing before the timing jumped. I had no issues boost leaks before. I'm guessing the pistons are damaged ough to cause knock. I cannot see anything else that would make it do this but something internally damaged. Knock sensor is DRY, looks great.
ANYONE else have any input? here's two of my logs. On the first one (I mis-spelled the name, sorry) I added two deg at 4500RPMS, so i have some knock there as well. usually its zero knock till about 5k-ish. I did this to show that i am on the threshold with the timing where it is now of "about to knock". the second log is of it lowered to where it doesn't knock till higher RPM's.
Kinda wish I could turn the KS OFF and see what will happen in the log.
PLEASE, just download the logs if you can and check it out. I have posted about this on ECMlink as well.
Backstory:
I had my BS belt improperly tensioned by my "buddy"during the 16g install/maint overhaul weekend. After about 15 pulls the next weekend the timing jumped bad from the shredded BS belt. It went at 5K RPM's; enough to gouge the Intake HKS cam and of course the valves kissed the pistons. I removed the valve marks on the pistons with a dremel, smoothed them up so i wouldn't have hot spots the best I could.
I was at about 11deg of timing before the belt went and the car pulled very hard. now it doesn't....
After the rebuild (used head, 262 intake cam) my timing has to be severely pulled in order NOT to knock.....I now start at about 0deg timing at 3K when I go WOT, slowly build up to 5-6deg total by 6300 when it starts to knock. If i add a degree in any rpm it will for sure knock exactly in that RPM range. I cannot see what the issue is anywhere.
I can't really do anything else. i know i need to do a boost leak test. I have to make the BLT. I never did one before and the car scared me it was so fast on 11deg timing before the timing jumped. I had no issues boost leaks before. I'm guessing the pistons are damaged ough to cause knock. I cannot see anything else that would make it do this but something internally damaged. Knock sensor is DRY, looks great.
ANYONE else have any input? here's two of my logs. On the first one (I mis-spelled the name, sorry) I added two deg at 4500RPMS, so i have some knock there as well. usually its zero knock till about 5k-ish. I did this to show that i am on the threshold with the timing where it is now of "about to knock". the second log is of it lowered to where it doesn't knock till higher RPM's.
Kinda wish I could turn the KS OFF and see what will happen in the log.
PLEASE, just download the logs if you can and check it out. I have posted about this on ECMlink as well.
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