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ECMlink Lots of Timing, No Knock - Log Attached

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thejollyrancher

10+ Year Contributor
307
13
Mar 31, 2012
calgary, AB, Canada
Hey everyone,

I recently redid my tune and I wanted to run it by you guys. Im running 93 octane and ~16-17psi. Im at a rough stage in my tune, my AFRs still need to be adjusted a little and so does my MAF but its almost there. What is worrying me is my timing. I started off with Evo 8 tables and when I reached my target boost I began advancing timing via the sliders, not touching my DA tables for now. But Im getting some pretty crazy timing numbers with barely any knock. Is this right? It should be safe to advance timing by this much as long as Im not seeing knock right?

Ive posted a log, I before this tune I also was running a tune with even more timing and I started seeing a little knock when my sliders were maxed out so I pulled back, but never anything major.
 

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Zero out you timing sliders under ecu config, timing. right now 2k-8k rpm is +10 timing advance on sliders.[DOUBLEPOST=1413339117][/DOUBLEPOST]Sorry, I should add that I only like to change timing through the Da tables. Adding timing in the sliders adds onto the DA tables tming value, which is why your timing is 10 higher than the DA table in each rpm range on your log.
 
when I reached my target boost I began advancing timing via the sliders, not touching my DA tables for now

I know that. All the guides I read tell me to advance timing till I see knock. But I dont. Where do I stop with timing if I'm just seeing no knock? What is the limiting factor when it comes to timing?[DOUBLEPOST=1413339490][/DOUBLEPOST]Oh I see what youre saying. Ya Im aware of that as well. Im just playing around with the sliders instead of changing my tables for a rough tune for the time being. My problem is just that I could max out my sliders and still see very little knock, but is that a bad idea? If so, why?
 
Start from zeroed out sliders and add timing slowly in 1* increments while watching for gains in estimated hp/70-90 mph times in your log. After a certain amount of timing advance you will not gain any more power, just more stress on engine internals, even if you are not getting knock.
 
I have not looked at the log yet, the others confirmed everything. But one question that immediately struck me, how old is your knock sensor? Pretty sure its picking up det like it should?
And yea, there comes a point when you can have too much timing and it becomes a bad thing. On e85 people have found this.
 
Start from zeroed out sliders and add timing slowly in 1* increments while watching for gains in estimated hp/70-90 mph times in your log. After a certain amount of timing advance you will not gain any more power, just more stress on engine internals, even if you are not getting knock.

This is exactly what I did and I seem to be gaining power still, I just stopped to be safe. I had the sliders higher than I do currently and I was feeling noticeably more power. Its making significantly less power now than it did when I had advanced timing even more.


I don't see why you wouldn't reach MBT with "only" 16-17psi. Turn the boost up and let us know how your timing looks then.

Im happy with the current boost and I want to keep it where it is. But Im not sure exactly what you're suggesting. As far as I can tell I have not reached MBT yet. I can make more power if I pull more timing, and without any added knock.


I have not looked at the log yet, the others confirmed everything. But one question that immediately struck me, how old is your knock sensor? Pretty sure its picking up det like it should?
And yea, there comes a point when you can have too much timing and it becomes a bad thing. On e85 people have found this.

I changed it out quite recently and I'm confident its working.
 
Perhaps I've been mislead, but I've heard that it's often safer to run more boost and less timing, within reason of course. I dont see why you wouldnt run 20psi with the setup you have. My .02 anyways. The car would be faster with more boost and more conservative timing. If it wouldnt, we'd all just have Hondas.
 
Perhaps I've been mislead, but I've heard that it's often safer to run more boost and less timing, within reason of course. I dont see why you wouldnt run 20psi with the setup you have. My .02 anyways. The car would be faster with more boost and more conservative timing. If it wouldnt, we'd all just have Hondas.

Things like my duty cycle are a little too high at points so id rather keep my boost where it is.
 
CHECK YOUR BASE IGNITION TIMING WTH A TIMING LIGHT.
Make sure that the timing connector is grounded. It should be 5* BTDC on the timing marks on the timing belt cover. Don't use an adjustable timing light, they don't read correctly with our waste spark ignitions.

I have a feeling that your timing belt is off 1 tooth (retarded) on your intake cam. This will cause the logged timing to read 15* higher than it actually is.

Jim

 
CHECK YOUR BASE IGNITION TIMING WTH A TIMING LIGHT.
Make sure that the timing connector is grounded. It should be 5* BTDC on the timing marks on the timing belt cover. Don't use an adjustable timing light, they don't read correctly with our waste spark ignitions.

I have a feeling that your timing belt is off 1 tooth (retarded) on your intake cam. This will cause the logged timing to read 15* higher than it actually is.

Jim

I set base timing 5 degrees BTDC before I even started tuning. I also checked my timing and everything lined up at TDC so I'm not jumped a tooth.

Also as an aside, when people say the amount of timing they are advancing, are they talking about on top of their base map, or including it? Like if my sliders are set to 10*, am I running 10* of timing advance, or am I running 10 + whatever value I read on my timing map.
 
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