Log results - lots of knock! Eeeek!

[steve]

Steve, are you the person that everyone sends their ECU to for repair, inspection and cap replacement?

I think so.

Nathan & Steve - as far as the ECU goes, I can't rule out a problem that wasn't visible & no, I'm not an electronics expert. But I do have experience with computer boards & upgrades & have seen overheated or burned out chips. I can tell you that this board looked pristine - like it had just come from the factory. There was no oozing green gunk, no nasty dead fish smell, no burn marks, no dust, no nuthin'. So at this point I'm not inclined to think that's the problem. Instead, since we might go with the upgraded ECU down the line, I'm going to leave it for now.

The conformal coating on the ECU board tends to hold the capacitor leakage under the caps initially. It's not unusual for there to be no signs of leakage other than operational and once the caps are pulled find a hole in the main power traces under C108. At least find someone who can loan you their ECU for a test to see what happens. I've seen plenty of pristine looking ECUs that didn't work right because the caps leaked.

Steve

 

[kraka]

Ya..Steve's the man...

I would say time for new injectors, but Im not sure thats exactly the case...For whatever reasons I dont know, I also reach 85+% injector duty on my 560cc injectors and a 14b @ 17-18psi....

My buddy with an evoIII and some 550's still has injector left when he runs 20-25psi on that turbo, so I wouldnt jump straight to the conclusion of small injectors, instead I would find out why they are reaching such a high duty cycle...

Gurrr, I wish you had a wideband...This way we would know for sure the a/f of your knocking point in those high rpm's....I mean, for some odd reason, maybe this is just some sparratic crazy phantom knock that occurs only at high rpm's where the engine is making the most noise, but we did seem to notice a slight difference in knock count based on safc settings, so I would strongly doubt it being phantom knock...Or a knock sensor problem...

Leaking caps? Maybe, its always a good idea to rule out bad ecu...Swapping an ecu takes me 2 minutes and saves me $300 everytime instead of going out and buying a new ecu, or saving me $50+ on a rebuild of the ecu before I need it...Having an expert check it out is always a plus....

So, I dno what else to tell you
1. Check your spark plugs (look for a lean condition aka white plugs, damaged bits, metal pieces on the tip)
2. Check for boost leaks ( Dont forget to spray lots of soapy water)
3. Check the ecu (swap with buddy's)
4. Check fuel filter (clogged? Not if its new, but its worth a shot)
5. Check injectors (Flow test them and have them flow matched if not)
6. Bump up the fuel pressure, give your injectors more life
7. Switch MAF's? I dont think thats it, but worth a try
8. Race gas...If its still knocking, its not because of a lean condition

Just some thoughts

 

[Gromit]

Steve - thanks for the bit of info about the conformal coating on the ECU board. Did not know that. So I can't visually rule out the ECU as the problem. Unfortunately, I don't know anyone with an ECU or MAF I can swap in. May eventually end up sending the board to you for caps replacement. You don't happen to do socketing, too?

Kraka - good info from you, too. The injectors could certainly be the problem. As someone mentioned in 1 of the previous threads - it's hard to tell which part is causing the problem & which other parts are effected by it. I just replaced the plugs & the old ones were lean looking - not a surprise considering what's been going on to date. And yeah, the fuel filter is new so probably not clogged. MAF/ECU/injectors seems to be the big 3 to focus on...

 

[andymoraitis]

Neal,

Based on the information that we have, I would do the following at the same time:

1. Send the ECU to Steve for repair and socketing (he can do both)
2. Pick up a used 2G MAS and wire it in according the vfaq link posted above.

Run it on the AFC and see how it is. Once you've verified that it's operating correctly, you and I will swap phone numbers and I'll create some chip settings for you with custom A/F and timing tables that will allow for plenty of safe boost on pump gas. At that point you can sell the AFC and recoup some money.

That's just how I'd do it. Or, we could continue to blame Federline for all of this and sue for mental anguish. It's your call.

 

[spyderturbo007]

you and I will swap phone numbers and

Noooooo.....Don't do that or Andy will be calling you every 15 minutes and start blowing in your ear.




Just kidding buddy.

 

[andymoraitis]

Just because YOU didn't like it doesn't mean that Neal won't.

Ever think of that Mr. Smarty Pants?!

 

[kraka]

If the MAS was bad, wouldnt it throw off the CEL? Most mas related problems are quick to trigger the warning light...

Remember to do the maf swap and the ecu rebuild/swap seperately to see where the problem truly lied....I think both are a good idea, but based on the pattern of knock Im not so sure they're both necessary...

Your o2 voltage goes crazy during the WOT pull....It moves anywhere from .84 to .00 and .25 which is incorrect, it should be quiet steady in 1 range of .tenths during WOT....

First, I would try richening up the high rpm's significantly, seeing if you can tune it out, but then a new o2 sensor is definitely recommended

 

[Gromit]

Noooooo.....Don't do that or Andy will be calling you every 15 minutes and start blowing in your ear.




Just kidding buddy.

I think this was more than I needed to know...

Andy - I pretty much came to the same conclusion thinking about this yesterday evening. I will probably send the ECU to Steve for caps replacement & might as well get it socketed at the same time. I read through another thread I found where you explained some more about the custom chips & I really like the level of control it affords. Just have to figure out when's a good time to have the car down for a bit & then I have to get the info from Steve on where to send, etc. As for the MAS, I haven't decided on 2G vs. GM vs. 3G/EVO just yet.

A used 2G would be the cheapest route, I'm sure, but if money wasn't a concern, would it be the best choice? I've got a Dejon Tool hard intake pipe right now so the 3" GM MAS would match up to that & I wouldn't have to worry about the oval piping on the 2G. I've not seen/heard anything about the 3G/EVO MAS Steve suggested. A factor in all of this is my relative inexperience doing this sort of stuff so I also want the choice that is least likely to cause more problems due to any ineptitude on my part. I did look through the vfaq link you posted & that method is doable, but I'm not excited about it. Of course, the Federline option is also tempting...

Kraka - I'm confused by something regarding the o2 voltage info. During much of the pull it's pretty steady around 0.86-0.88 v. Then, when things get squirrely & knock goes through the roof, the o2 shows the erratic values like you mentioned. Isn't this just an indication of what the o2 sensor is really seeing at this point in time, i.e., the lean condition due to either the injectors not flowing enough or the airflow signal breaking up? As I understand, in open loop operation, the ECU disregards input from the o2 sensor. I'm not sure it indicates a bad sensor (the sensor is new, by the way) since it cycles fine in closed loop operation & only displays varying voltages when there are other things going on. Am I just not correctly understanding the way the o2 sensor functions in this system? In any case, I hesitate to try richening things up significantly to see if it tunes out - I have used slightly richer settings already & that had minimal impact. I think I'll get the ECU repair done, put it back in, turn down the boost a bit, work my way up & see what happens. Then I can go with a new MAS, if it is needed, the chip, & possibly bigger injectors.

Again, thanks for the suggestions!

 

[steve]

I have to get the info from Steve on where to send, etc.

As for the MAS, I haven't decided on 2G vs. GM vs. 3G/EVO just yet.

A used 2G would be the cheapest route, I'm sure, but if money wasn't a concern, would it be the best choice? I've got a Dejon Tool hard intake pipe right now so the 3" GM MAS would match up to that & I wouldn't have to worry about the oval piping on the 2G. I've not seen/heard anything about the 3G/EVO MAS Steve suggested. A factor in all of this is my relative inexperience doing this sort of stuff so I also want the choice that is least likely to cause more problems due to any ineptitude on my part. I did look through the vfaq link you posted & that method is doable, but I'm not excited about it.

The address is on the my webpage link below any of my posts. If you have other questions the email link works best.

Since you already have a 1G hard intake pipe the 2G would be expensive. The 3G/EVO MAS should fit it. They use a 3" round pipe. There's a guy on the GVR4 boards that sells new MAFs and adaptor cables inexpensively and it's an option DSMChips supports.

Steve

 

[kraka]

Gromit, yes, your theory makes much more sense....I believe you have a very good idea of the o2 sensors function, its just that seeing such random voltages like you saw is pretty out of the ordinary...

All your definitions are basically correct, but usually on WOT pulls, whether you choose to judge the narrowbands readings or not, the voltage usually will stay in a certain range, for instance, .80 - 1.00, not cycling like in closed loop..Your numbers cycle back and forth sporatically, I incorrectly saw this is as a bad sensor, but I would not disregard this data anyway....Its not a typicaly function for the o2 to move around like that in open loop..

Im probly wrong...

 

[andymoraitis]

I just thing that when things get haywire as a result of either the MAS or the ECU, all of the readings get wierd. I'm pretty I read that the O2 sensor was fresh so I think we can rule that out. Something electrical is happening and it's skewing a ton of readings at once. For an O2 to get that funky in closed loop, the ECU is seeing something weird and crapping itself.

Now there's a mental image or you!

Neal: Once you're back on stable ground, we'll talk about the chip and I promise not to blow in your ear. I only did it to Nathan since he said he liked it.

 

[Gromit]

I just thing that when things get haywire as a result of either the MAS or the ECU, all of the readings get wierd. I'm pretty I read that the O2 sensor was fresh so I think we can rule that out. Something electrical is happening and it's skewing a ton of readings at once. For an O2 to get that funky in closed loop, the ECU is seeing something weird and crapping itself.

Now there's a mental image or you!

Neal: Once you're back on stable ground, we'll talk about the chip and I promise not to blow in your ear. I only did it to Nathan since he said he liked it.

I would concur with this. The wacky readings occur consistently within their own wackiness at exactly the same place every time. Failing parts typically provide erratic readings that are non-repeatable. At least, that's been my experience.

As for the ECU "crapping itself" when all this occurs, I'm telling 'ya, I cracked the case open & there was no stink! J/K...

OK, now we're back to that blowing in the ear thing. Andy, if you really feel a need to demonstrate your skills, I'll put my wife on the line at the appropriate time. We actually work on the car together & she's fully apprised of the whole situation. She's also got a degree in engineering so you'd better be prepared to blow differential equations in her ear.

Steve - thanks for the info on the 3G/EVO MAS. I'll look into that & compare to the GM MAS option.

One thing which has just occurred to me - the car is a 92 with a non-EPROM ECU. I've read stuff alluding to the need for a daughterboard to override the existing micro-chip controller & allow for the socket. Is that the ticket, or would I have to somehow procure an EPROM ECU to use the custom chip?

 

[steve]

One thing which has just occurred to me - the car is a 92 with a non-EPROM ECU. I've read stuff alluding to the need for a daughterboard to override the existing micro-chip controller & allow for the socket. Is that the ticket, or would I have to somehow procure an EPROM ECU to use the custom chip?

Sure you can use the daughterboard, they are only $700.
You will need a EPROM ECU or be prepared to tune with the SAFC.

Steve

 

[Gromit]

Sure you can use the daughterboard, they are only $700.
You will need a EPROM ECU or be prepared to tune with the SAFC.

Steve

Well, that makes things a little more problematical. Let's say that ultimately I plan to get an EPROM ECU, have it socketed & custom chipped, upgrade the MAS to a 3G, & get bigger injectors. I'm wondering about these 2 routes:

1. I can just get an EPROM ECU from somewhere & throw it in the car & see if that changes anything, i.e., verify that the ECU was or wasn't the cause of the problem. Then get it socketed, get the chip, etc.

2. If I were to leave the ECU alone right now & assume it's not the problem, with my current set-up just throwing in a 3G MAS is gonna cause problems. I read thru some old threads & it sounds like the 3G MAS is what I want to go with - can be had relatively inexpensive, direct fit on the intake, not too hard to wire in, etc. But I think the airflow was something like 67% more than stock 1G - my 550's ain't gonna to be able to compensate for that. So I'd need bigger injectors - which is fine since the custom chip down the road would allow for much bigger injectors, anyway - but right now my SAFC's only good for maybe 650's? Big enough to handle that increased flow? Is it possible that the 3G MAS + big injectors sort of balance each other out & leave the SAFC within a capable tuning range? I guess what I'm trying to get at is whether or not I can just do the MAS upgrade 1st & see if that was the problem. I don't want to get slightly larger injectors which are limited by the SAFC, but then need to get even larger ones down the road, yet again.

Oh, I guess there's that 3rd option still floating around out there where I just go ahead & sue that K-Fed assclown. That seems more & more appealing everyday...

 

[power=dsm]

i'm almost positive you can run a 3g mas and 550s tuned by a safc.

i don't see why you just don't throw in a 2g mas, they're very inexpensive and buy an intake for it, (check out ebay) 2g mas and your 550's balance each other out!

 

[DSM90AWD]

i'm almost positive you can run a 3g mas and 550s tuned by a safc.

i don't see why you just don't throw in a 2g mas, they're very inexpensive and buy an intake for it, (check out ebay) 2g mas and your 550's balance each other out!

According to Jeff O (whom has cardinal knowledge of the various MAS flow rates) the 2G MAS flows 33% more air volume at the same Hz as the 1G MAS and the 3G 67% more (readings at 1000Hz).

With 550s flowing 22% more than 450s, you'd still have to correct via AFC/Eprom ~11% for a 2G MAS and ~44% for the 3G MAS. 44% is a ton of adjustment for an AFC and would have a strong impact to the timing tables as well. If going with the 3G, I'd suggest running a larger injector so less correction (and timing impact) would be needed.

Obviously an EPROM would be the best option

 

[Gromit]

According to Jeff O (whom has cardinal knowledge of the various MAS flow rates) the 2G MAS flows 33% more air volume at the same Hz as the 1G MAS and the 3G 67% more (readings at 1000Hz).

With 550s flowing 22% more than 450s, you'd still have to correct via AFC/Eprom ~11% for a 2G MAS and ~44% for the 3G MAS. 44% is a ton of adjustment for an AFC and would have a strong impact to the timing tables as well. If going with the 3G, I'd suggest running a larger injector so less correction (and timing impact) would be needed.

Obviously an EPROM would be the best option

Right, that's what I was getting at - 550's ain't gonna cut it with the 3G MAS. But normally, it's advisable to stick to 650's or smaller with a SAFC since you'd have to take out too much fuel for larger injectors - same problem of too big an adjustment for the SAFC & causing the ECU to freak out about the timing. But would running the 3G MAS allow you to use injectors larger than 650's with a SAFC & not have major tuning problems? In other words, I'd have a lot more air with the 3G MAS but I'd also have a lot more fuel with, say, 720's & the adjustment on the SAFC wouldn't have to be so big in either direction. Ultimately I'll probably get the EPROM ECU & the chip, so I'd rather go with the biggest injectors I'd likely want.

 

[kraka]

Or run a 2g mas and call it a day...Keep it simple...

An Eprom chip can compensate for the injectors and the larger mas...

 

[DJ23GSX]

Not sure if this problem is fixed yet but those logs look very similiar to mine when i was overrunning my 1g maf at 19psi with a small 16g and 560's. I had similiar mods and all i did was put in a 2g maf and all was good. How hacked is your 1g maf??

 

[Gromit]

Not sure if this problem is fixed yet but those logs look very similiar to mine when i was overrunning my 1g maf at 19psi with a small 16g and 560's. I had similiar mods and all i did was put in a 2g maf and all was good. How hacked is your 1g maf??

No, the problem hasn't been fixed yet. Do you have your logs that show the MAF overrun? I'd be interested to see how they compare. I can't decide which is the culprit - the MAF, the injectors, or the ECU so I haven't decided which route to take to address the problem. I've been searching through a lot of old threads but I think I have more questions now than answers. I think the injectors are too small regardless for what I want to do - they reach over 90% IDC by 4200 rpm. Oh, & my 1G MAF is completely stock - not hacked at all.

 

[PRESSURIZED]

Hey man, just go to www.xceedspeed.com and do a search for "DSMdave" on that site. Get in contact with him. He has a warehouse in DETROIT (my home town) and has everything you need bro and more, cheap.

The 1g MAF is crap and is easily overrun......

 

[DJ23GSX]

I don't have any logs from my overrun issues anymore. Try a 2g maf and even if it doesn't solve the problem its still money well spent over the 1g maf.

I am kinda having the same issues your having now with my car. My IDC's are climbing to 110% around 6k and i am getting knock like crazy. Only wierd this is my car ran perfect with 0 knock all summer at 20psi with my IDC's topping out at 93% but sometime in the last week or so somethings gone wacky. I haven''t changed anything in the car (except oil) since it was running great. I cranked up the base fp quite a bit and i was able to lean out the safc about 8% which brought my IDC under 100% but now its back over 100% even with the base fp at 45psi.

 

[Gromit]

I don't have any logs from my overrun issues anymore. Try a 2g maf and even if it doesn't solve the problem its still money well spent over the 1g maf.

I am kinda having the same issues your having now with my car. My IDC's are climbing to 110% around 6k and i am getting knock like crazy. Only wierd this is my car ran perfect with 0 knock all summer at 20psi with my IDC's topping out at 93% but sometime in the last week or so somethings gone wacky. I haven''t changed anything in the car (except oil) since it was running great. I cranked up the base fp quite a bit and i was able to lean out the safc about 8% which brought my IDC under 100% but now its back over 100% even with the base fp at 45psi.

Oh well...I looked at your profile & your mods are quite similar to mine. Frustrating when something seems to go wacky out of the blue like that. I don't know the history of your knock problems, but have you ruled out a failing knock sensor as the problem? How's the ECU look? What happens at that 6k point when you get high IDC's & all the knock? I have a pronounced stuttering for a short period when the ECU yanks the timing. I'm looking into MAF overrun, fuel delivery, & inadequate injectors as the source of my problems, but haven't gotten a solid grasp on all of it yet. I haven't gone with the 2G MAF as the quick fix because I have a hard intake pipe & don't want to get a new 1 of those to accommodate the oval piping. I'll probably just go with the 3G MAF which flows more anyway & is a direct fit.

 

[DJ23GSX]

Oh well...I looked at your profile & your mods are quite similar to mine. Frustrating when something seems to go wacky out of the blue like that. I don't know the history of your knock problems, but have you ruled out a failing knock sensor as the problem? How's the ECU look? What happens at that 6k point when you get high IDC's & all the knock? I have a pronounced stuttering for a short period when the ECU yanks the timing. I'm looking into MAF overrun, fuel delivery, & inadequate injectors as the source of my problems, but haven't gotten a solid grasp on all of it yet. I haven't gone with the 2G MAF as the quick fix because I have a hard intake pipe & don't want to get a new 1 of those to accommodate the oval piping. I'll probably just go with the 3G MAF which flows more anyway & is a direct fit.

My car just stops pulling hard cause so much timing is being pulled at 6k. My knock sensor, fuel filter, plugs and o2 sensor were all changed in the spring. I have phantom knock at low rpms but it goes away once the car is warm. I've tried loosening the knock sensor, tightening it and even washers between it and the block with no luck. I am thinking maybe lifters even though my motor has all brand new internals with less than 6k miles on them and I can't hear them at idle either. The knock issue i am having now is affected by changing safc setting so i know its not phantom knock i have. I also know that i loose all fuel pressure as soon as i shut the car off. This was present from the begining and the 0 knock tunes. I was able to narrow down the leak after the regulator. If i pinch off the return hose and shut down the car it holds the pressure fine but i haven't check this since the new knock issues. So far the lowest i have seen my knock is 11. Mind you a few weeks ago i was at 0 knock all the way to redline.

The studdering and the change in airflow is exactly what i had with the maf overrun. If you haven't already take out the lower honeycomb and back the screw all the way out on the maf and see if this problem still exist. My 1g maf i ported that whole bottom section and was able to run 18psi without overrun.

 

[Gromit]

Finally got some info here to dredge up this thread & update it. Seems I am on the right track now so I wanted to post the results in case anyone with similar issues searches & finds this thread.

Looks like all you Wiseguys, er, I mean Wisemen, were pointing me in the right direction. My conclusion was I was probably overrunning the stock 1G MAF (here's a good read on what seems exactly like what I experienced - http://www.vfaq.com/TMO/Tuning-Tips.htm - go down to the section on Airflow Hz), definitely maxxing out my 550's, & getting too much timing with the already-aggressive 1G maps. Over the last couple months I got larger injectors (FIC 650's), a 3G MAF, & a Stage III custom chip/EPROM ECU package from Jeff at DSMChips. I retained my SAFC for fine-tuning ability, setting all the Ne points to 0% correction for the moment. Everything is now installed & I had a chance to make a couple short runs over the holiday weekend. My chip compensates for the injectors & the 3G MAF, caps the timing at 18* advance on the high map, & sets the WOT AFR to 11.5:1 since I've got access to 94 octane. It also has the 2X Karmen feature so my airflow value as displayed is 50% of actual, allowing me to log greater than 1606 Hz.

For the 1st run I lowered the boost to roughly 12 PSI (note that both logs I post here are only 2nd gear pulls - didn't think I needed to be running 95+ mph over the holiday weekend ). Here's that data:

TIME O2-R BARO MAFS RPM KNOCK INJP IDC AIRT
11/23/2006 13:58:41 35° 0.78V 13.89psi 125.8Hz 3063 0 5.89ms 19 87.8°F
11/23/2006 13:58:41 26° 0.84V 13.89psi 213.9Hz 3219 0 7.68ms 26 87.8°F
11/23/2006 13:58:42 22° 0.88V 13.89psi 245.3Hz 3313 0 8.70ms 30 87.8°F
11/23/2006 13:58:42 18° 0.88V 13.89psi 301.9Hz 3469 0 10.24ms 37 87.8°F
11/23/2006 13:58:42 15° 0.88V 13.82psi 364.8Hz 3656 0 12.03ms 47 87.8°F
11/23/2006 13:58:42 14° 0.86V 13.82psi 440.3Hz 3906 0 12.29ms 51 87.8°F
11/23/2006 13:58:42 15° 0.86V 13.82psi 434.0Hz 4125 0 11.78ms 51 88.7°F
11/23/2006 13:58:43 16° 0.84V 13.82psi 452.9Hz 4344 0 11.78ms 54 88.7°F
11/23/2006 13:58:43 17° 0.84V 13.75psi 484.3Hz 4594 0 12.29ms 60 88.7°F
11/23/2006 13:58:43 17° 0.84V 13.75psi 522.1Hz 4844 0 12.03ms 62 88.7°F
11/23/2006 13:58:43 18° 0.84V 13.75psi 540.9Hz 5063 0 12.03ms 65 88.7°F
11/23/2006 13:58:44 18° 0.84V 13.67psi 566.1Hz 5250 0 12.03ms 67 88.7°F
11/23/2006 13:58:44 19° 0.84V 13.67psi 591.3Hz 5531 0 12.03ms 71 87.8°F
11/23/2006 13:58:44 19° 0.84V 13.67psi 610.1Hz 5688 0 12.03ms 73 87.8°F
11/23/2006 13:58:44 18° 0.84V 13.67psi 622.7Hz 5906 0 12.03ms 75 86.9°F
11/23/2006 13:58:44 20° 0.84V 13.67psi 629.0Hz 6031 0 11.78ms 75 86.9°F
11/23/2006 13:58:44 20° 0.84V 13.67psi 635.3Hz 6188 0 11.78ms 77 86.0°F
11/23/2006 13:58:45 21° 0.84V 13.60psi 647.9Hz 6344 0 11.52ms 78 85.2°F
11/23/2006 13:58:45 21° 0.84V 13.67psi 654.2Hz 6531 7 11.26ms 78 84.4°F
11/23/2006 13:58:45 19° 0.84V 13.60psi 660.5Hz 6688 6 11.26ms 80 84.4°F
11/23/2006 13:58:45 20° 0.84V 13.60psi 666.7Hz 6844 6 11.01ms 80 83.6°F
11/23/2006 13:58:45 20° 0.84V 13.60psi 673.0Hz 6969 6 11.01ms 81 83.6°F
11/23/2006 13:58:46 20° 0.84V 13.60psi 666.7Hz 7250 6 10.50ms 81 83.6°F
11/23/2006 13:58:46 22° 0.84V 13.60psi 654.2Hz 7281 5 10.24ms 79 83.6°F
11/23/2006 13:58:46 23° 0.84V 13.60psi 654.2Hz 7469 4 9.98ms 79 84.4°F
11/23/2006 13:58:46 25° 0.84V 13.60psi 660.5Hz 7563 4 9.47ms 76 84.4°F
11/23/2006 13:58:46 31° 0.86V 13.96psi 69.2Hz 7281 0 1.28ms 9 85.2°F
11/23/2006 13:58:46 45° 0.70V 13.96psi 25.2Hz 7594 0 1.28ms 10 85.2°F
11/23/2006 13:58:47 45° 0.68V 13.96psi 31.5Hz 7531 0 1.28ms 10 85.2°F
11/23/2006 13:58:47 45° 0.78V 13.96psi 31.5Hz 7313 0 1.54ms 12 86.0°F

I recorded BARO & AIRT to see that my new MAF appeared to be working correctly. Got a little bit of knock up top, but way better than previously. Also, no more bad stuttering. I added 2-3% fuel with the SAFC, raised the boost & did another pull. The next log was done at 17 PSI:

TIME O2-R BARO MAFS RPM KNOCK INJP IDC AIRT
11/23/2006 14:06:58 30° 0.92V 13.96psi 151.0Hz 2469 0 6.40ms 16 98.6°F
11/23/2006 14:06:59 19° 0.84V 13.96psi 151.0Hz 2500 0 6.66ms 17 97.7°F
11/23/2006 14:06:59 19° 0.86V 13.96psi 169.8Hz 2594 0 6.91ms 19 96.8°F
11/23/2006 14:06:59 18° 0.86V 13.96psi 188.7Hz 2656 0 7.42ms 21 95.9°F
11/23/2006 14:06:59 17° 0.88V 13.96psi 201.3Hz 2750 0 7.94ms 23 95.0°F
11/23/2006 14:07:00 16° 0.88V 13.96psi 226.4Hz 2875 0 9.22ms 28 94.1°F
11/23/2006 14:07:00 15° 0.88V 13.96psi 264.2Hz 3063 0 9.98ms 32 92.3°F
11/23/2006 14:07:00 15° 0.88V 13.89psi 301.9Hz 3219 0 11.01ms 37 91.4°F
11/23/2006 14:07:00 15° 0.88V 13.89psi 358.5Hz 3375 0 12.03ms 43 89.6°F
11/23/2006 14:07:00 14° 0.88V 13.89psi 390.0Hz 3594 0 12.54ms 48 88.7°F
11/23/2006 14:07:01 14° 0.86V 13.89psi 427.7Hz 3844 0 13.06ms 53 87.8°F
11/23/2006 14:07:01 13° 0.86V 13.82psi 471.8Hz 4094 0 13.57ms 59 86.0°F
11/23/2006 14:07:01 13° 0.86V 13.82psi 515.8Hz 4375 0 13.57ms 63 85.2°F
11/23/2006 14:07:01 14° 0.86V 13.82psi 540.9Hz 4594 0 13.57ms 66 84.4°F
11/23/2006 14:07:02 15° 0.86V 13.75psi 566.1Hz 4844 0 13.31ms 68 83.6°F
11/23/2006 14:07:02 15° 0.86V 13.75psi 603.8Hz 5094 0 13.31ms 72 82.9°F
11/23/2006 14:07:02 16° 0.86V 13.75psi 629.0Hz 5281 0 13.57ms 76 82.1°F
11/23/2006 14:07:02 17° 0.86V 13.75psi 641.6Hz 5469 0 13.31ms 77 81.3°F
11/23/2006 14:07:02 17° 0.86V 13.67psi 660.5Hz 5719 0 13.06ms 79 81.3°F
11/23/2006 14:07:02 18° 0.86V 13.67psi 673.0Hz 5844 0 13.06ms 81 80.5°F
11/23/2006 14:07:03 19° 0.86V 13.67psi 679.3Hz 5969 0 13.06ms 83 80.5°F
11/23/2006 14:07:03 19° 0.86V 13.67psi 710.8Hz 6188 0 13.06ms 86 79.7°F
11/23/2006 14:07:03 20° 0.86V 13.67psi 717.1Hz 6406 0 12.80ms 87 79.7°F
11/23/2006 14:07:03 21° 0.86V 13.67psi 723.4Hz 6563 0 12.54ms 87 78.9°F
11/23/2006 14:07:03 21° 0.86V 13.67psi 735.9Hz 6719 1 12.54ms 90 78.9°F
11/23/2006 14:07:04 21° 0.86V 13.60psi 754.8Hz 6844 0 12.29ms 89 78.1°F
11/23/2006 14:07:04 21° 0.86V 13.60psi 748.5Hz 7031 0 11.78ms 88 78.1°F
11/23/2006 14:07:04 21° 0.86V 13.60psi 767.4Hz 7250 0 11.78ms 91 78.1°F
11/23/2006 14:07:04 22° 0.86V 13.82psi 364.8Hz 7094 0 2.05ms 15 78.9°F
11/23/2006 14:07:04 45° 0.88V 13.96psi 62.9Hz 7219 0 1.79ms 13 80.5°F
11/23/2006 14:07:05 45° 0.82V 14.03psi 37.7Hz 7125 0 1.28ms 9 81.3°F

Looks even better. At this point I plan to spend some time making some small adjustments - I'm going to go ahead & rewire my 255 lph fuel pump just to make sure there's no issues with that. I also have a set of revised lifters waiting to go in. Then I'll see about running some seafoam through the system. I don't plan to do too much tuning over the winter since temps are pretty cold right now & I'd just have to re-tune in the summer. It runs fine at 17 PSI so I'll probably leave it there for now. Next Spring I'm looking to get a wideband O2 & possibly meth injection so I can raise the boost to somewhere around 22 PSI.

I have only 1 issue right now that is a bit perplexing. With this chip my FTRL at idle is pegged rich - 81.2%. This is only at idle - as soon as I give it some throttle it stabilizes near 100% (i.e., if I drive around in 1st gear at roughly 1500 rpms it's good, but goes right back to 81.2% if I come to a stop). FTRM & FTRH are both good, although not fully settled yet as I haven't done a lot of higher throttle cruising since installing the chip. And I cannot correct the FTRL with the SAFC - adjusting to the full -50% does not change it at idle. The chip guy suggested just lowering the base fuel pressure as the injectors were likely flowing more than they were rated for. Any thoughts on this?

Thanks for all the previous input!