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2G Keep blowing 30amp ignition fuse every time I load the engine

Posted by bizie, Jun 13, 2016

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  1. bizie

    bizie Proven Member

    113
    2
    Joined Jul 17, 2014
    hagerstown, Maryland
    I got a solid 250 miles out of a 2.4 stroker build I just did, and then my ignition module came loose and left the car dead. I reconnected it and redid some wiring for my gauges and now every time I get on my car I blow the ignition fuse and it leaves me dead in the water. I can sit still and Rev all the way to the redline but as soon as I drive and put a high load on the engine I blow the ignition fuse. I've been checking for grounding hots for two days. Nothing. I noticed that if I give the throttle a little blip and let off of it then my air fuel gauge goes dim for a few seconds then a few sec later it regains its brightness. I have it connected to my red line ignition power line from my ecu. Along with my apexi tuner. Before I did this swap I was having a low voltage issue but it would go away when I tried the car, I was thinking my alt was going bad. Well I just put a new OEM in there and it's still doing the same thing. Gauges are often dim, sometimes light up for a sec and then dim out, until I rev high, then they light up great, but if I rev low and steady the af gauge will go dim. Normally I would just deal with this issue but I can't even drive my car. I can putt around fine and great, but as soon as I load the car I blow my 30amp ignition fuse. Is there anything that could cause this besides a grounding positive? All my plugs are tight and all of my wires are covered, or seem to be. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
     
  2. Detail

    Detail Supporting VIP

    370
    23
    Joined May 28, 2003
    Marietta, Georgia
    Not sure if this is related, but I had an issue where the little radio interference wire on my manifold came unplugged. if it grounded out against the motor, it popped the fuse immediately. Check that little wire.
     

    333  5

    1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    awd · manual · 2G DSM

    726  23

    1995 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    14.000 @ 109.000 · 2G DSM
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  3. bizie

    bizie Proven Member

    113
    2
    Joined Jul 17, 2014
    hagerstown, Maryland
    Checked it twice. Thanks though!
     
  4. bizie

    bizie Proven Member

    113
    2
    Joined Jul 17, 2014
    hagerstown, Maryland
    Also blew a 40amp but 50 amp didn't blow. When it would have blown I got a huge misfire where it sounded terrible, like a loud fart, definitely not like a nice combustion.

    I know I know, upgrading the fuse can start a fire, but I had to get the car home... Now maybe I didn't need to stomp it to test the fuse but I have self control issues LOL. That is why I need help diagnosing this problem, self control is very limited... Ahhhh
     
  5. bizie

    bizie Proven Member

    113
    2
    Joined Jul 17, 2014
    hagerstown, Maryland
    I also notice that when I cruise the af gauge will also go dim. When i rev it a little it.co.es back to normal, but too much of a load and blamo, dead in the water. All seems like alt signs to me but it's brand new OEM. Maydayyy
     
  6. bizie

    bizie Proven Member

    113
    2
    Joined Jul 17, 2014
    hagerstown, Maryland
    I have 14.7 at the alt and 14.3 at the battery. Normal? Line looks good. It's doesn't look stock either
     
  7. bizie

    bizie Proven Member

    113
    2
    Joined Jul 17, 2014
    hagerstown, Maryland
    Fuel pump hot wire looks good, P.o had fans wires to run constant off the maf red ignition wire. I switched back to stock to start eliminating things. My o2 sensor is only a narrow band but it seems wired fine. Have the gauge lights to the green cigarette wire. I have a Apexi tuner, connections are soldered. Unplugged head unit, no difference. I have basically changed or unplugged everything. My narrowband seems to be getting more juice but I still feel like it's not enough. Checked my brand new alt and it reads 13.3 checked the battery and 13.0 that seems low to me. This is a OEM alt from JNZ. I am pulling my hair out over my own car when I'm suppose to be working on a customers car.

    I've cleaned all connections, checked for breaks. I dunno guys. What a day.
     
  8. weasel1G

    weasel1G Proven Member

    127
    47
    Joined Aug 26, 2015
    Columbus, Ohio

    Drag Race Build 2K  0

    1991 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    manual · 1G DSM
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  9. bizie

    bizie Proven Member

    113
    2
    Joined Jul 17, 2014
    hagerstown, Maryland
    I've changed a lot of things around, I found some loose wires but non were hot ignition wires. I was at a loss when I grabbed onto my plug wires with the car running and got one hell of a shock. I changed my wires and have made three solid pulls. The wires look fine to the naked eye but I guess they are not sealed somewhere. I'm going to start putting everything back to the way it was and keep the swapped wires in and see if that was officially the problem. I mean I suppose it is possible since it blew easier when I mashed the throttle. This is when the plugs work the hardest? Sounds legit LOL whether it is official or not I dunno yet.
     
  10. DSM EL

    DSM EL Probationary Member

    1
    0
    Joined Aug 8, 2018
    VINELAND, New Jersey
    Going to revive this post because I was extremely overwhelmed by this. After perseverance and a little bit of tears (not) I was able to find the problem, but first let me give you a little bit of a back story. I have a 98 Eclipse GST 4G64/4G63 Hybrid. Meaning I have a 2.0L DOHC Head on a 2.4L block out of an GS Eclipse Spyder. Even though I have a little bit of a franken-block this problem and the way to find it can apply to you as well. I was driving, as I approached a stop light the car stalled. When I went to go flip the key back on to start it I noticed the boost gauge was not doing its usual rising as the ignition is switched on, nor was my temperature gauge rising. Instantly I knew my 30A ignition fuse was blown. So i took the fuse cover off and put a new fuse in that I had laying around. As I went to go flip the key back to the ON position the fuse blew again. This is a telltale sign of a short to ground going on somewhere. Luckily I was about a minute from my house and I was able to drive my truck over and drag it back home as my uncle steered the Eclipse. When I got back home I noticed that my 1300W amp had fallen from its mounting brackets, so I instantly thought that there was a short somewhere in my radio harness. After some investigation, I had discovered that there was no short in this harness or anywhere in the car. I pulled off every single interior panel looking for a short, and my labors were proved fruitless. After countless frustrating days of playing hide and go seek with this short, I got tired of it and just jumped the 2 prongs in the fuse box with a screwdriver until the short got hot enough to start smoking. Sure enough the short started smoking and it was no where near the interior of the car. IT WAS MY 2 AND 3 COIL THAT HAD GONE BAD AND WAS SHORTING ITSELF OUT. I definitely do not recommend this method to find a short, but it was definitely effective. Take your time and go over any wires you might be suspicious of. Usually its an aftermarket accessory that is the culprit, such as an alarm, turbo timer, or even any aftermarket gauges. I believe in you, dont give up. - DSM El
     

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