just got back from the track!!

[VelocitàPaola]

Um... I guess that's possible, but I'd say it's unlikely. Mine was made in August '94... pretty close to when they first started manufacturing cars for the '95 model year. Furthermore, I've never even heard of a '95 without the OBD-II plug. Maybe the car you were working on was tampered with? I'm not quite sure how to explain that...

 

[greenmeanie99]

That is awesome congrats.

Whats the best proven NA-T tracktime we know of?

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Hahn likes to say they do... but I don't know about that. I've heard of others with better times, but what can I do? I don't have any timeslips to show you...

 

[awddynamite]

someone needs to make a best times list for these cars, that would show how people are advancing wuth these hoopties

 

[VelocitàPaola]

We have one... but unfortunately, not everyone chooses to post their data.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/timeslips.php?&do=420a

 

[TalonESIT]

Ah ok. You had Paul's post quoted so that's who I thought you were talking to.

I probably missed it, but what are you using to tune your car again? MSnS?

Was this question aimed towards me? Well, i'll answer anyways =D. I am running the hahn portfueler setup too, just with the 034efi unit. I am using the portfueler mounting kit, just not the control module.

Don't dissapear on me just yet trevtec! I definately would like your services on installing my clutch... just dont want to deal with that stuff at the moment!

 

[cs82685]

Wow, so that's what good tuning and knowing how to drive allows you to do with a 420a

Where's the jaw dropping smilie?

Great times, which I had the money to buy the car

Hahn likes to say they do... but I don't know about that. I've heard of others with better times, but what can I do? I don't have any timeslips to show you...

Hahn also uses a rather large shot of nitrous don't they? Something like 100-150 I think I remember reading.

 

[BigRand]

I'm gonna follow suit and say congrats,

But I just wanted to know about how long it took to tune the car? And was there a lot of road tuning first or all done on the dyno? And if say a regular customer came to do the same about how much would it cost at the shop?

 

[awddynamite]

all tuning was done on the dyno for my car but we do road tune alot of cars first, i just like the dyno, trevor will have to answer on the cost for it since he is the owner of the shop.

1/4 list is updated and i think more people shoud do the same, it is a pride thing, 10 2gnt on the list compared to 250 turbo dsm's

 

[TREV TEC]

We spent 2 hours on the car, but we tuned from 15 psi all the way to 26 on the scales. Since the portfueler only works under boost tuning for drivability isnt an issue. We were also using C16 racing fuel for any boost over 17psi, between 17 and 12 I recomend at least 100 ocatane and below 12psi 91 should be ok. On average I charge about $85 per hour for tuning plus dyno time. Road tuning a Portfueler is a pain in the ass ### you have to pull over and shut the car off each time you make changes. So about $250-300 would get a car tuned pretty nice.

 

[awddynamite]

sorry, im gonna say 2- 4hours max from raw tune to where it is now.

 

[TalonESIT]

I'm gonna follow suit and say congrats,

But I just wanted to know about how long it took to tune the car? And was there a lot of road tuning first or all done on the dyno? And if say a regular customer came to do the same about how much would it cost at the shop?

Im pretty sure all of it was on the dyno for tuning. Like I said before he had lots of dyno runs when we reviewed his files at DDP.

For a regular customer it would depend on how tuned or untuned your vehicle is. Hopefully they may be able to provide us with some sort of basemap, but it may not help us out (because of different setups)

When they were at the dyno they reviewed the curves of each of their parameters accordingly, trying to get hiccups out and smooth out their A/F.

Hopefully they will share more about it because of course I was only there when they were already at 380+whp...

woah...im a little late there.

 

[Talon ESI-T]

Actually, I just worked on a 95 talon last week that had only an obd-I connector. You could pull the codes by doing the key dance and the codes given were obd-I codes. I think the early 95 was obd-I and had a midyear change over to the obd-II.

All '95s came with the OBD II plug and the mitsu plug. They were not changed midyear yours may have been removed like said already. The 95 year can easily be read as an OBD II scan if your using a reputable Scanner. The cheap scanners you buy are junk and only for basic scanning. I have read all 95s as OBD II with the mitsu plug, then again the money i have in my scanner is more than you would invest in your car. The OBD II gives you OBD II info and the mitsu plug gives the data for vehicle specific info. Many OBD II codes are generics (which is why the cheap code readers work 1/2 the time) but many of the codes required are vehicle specific which is why the correct plug for our cars has 2 plugs on it (OBDII and Mitsu).

Now the cheap scanner Talon has is probably some over the counter 70.00 piece that just plain gives you a scan code. Or some cheap program he loaded on his laptop for 120.00. My scanner ran me 9500.00 with the current updates and gives me a shitload more info that your cheap units.

The 95 is an OBD II computer with OBD1 paramters. This is not new and people can entertain whatever belief they want.

AWD this is not geared towards you even though i quoted you. Certain members here just like to promote inaccurate info till it spews from their ears.


******NOW BACK ON SUBJECT*****


AWDDyna..... you said you shot for 12:1 throughout the boost range? Isnt that a little lean for 20+ psi? I always had the understanding we should shoot for 11.5 (not much of a difference)

In terms of ignition....what kind of retardation did you work with to lessen knock? Did you have any problem with the 4500 range being knock prone?

Also on your slicks.....Did you need to use an additional backspacing to get the 8" slick in without rubbing?

How does the correction factor work on the Mustang Dyno? I have never seen that used, not that i have seen that many (only Buschur's).

I ask because this would all be great info to help this community out since your leaving the platform so suddenly.

Have you taken any thought to persuing the platform to top Hahn's numbers or perhaps tackle the 2.4L road. Lot of money can be made in that realm if you were looking for a turnaround for the R&D and promote shop sales.

Terry

 

[awddynamite]

All '95s came with the OBD II plug and the mitsu plug. They were not changed midyear yours may have been removed like said already. The 95 year can easily be read as an OBD II scan if your using a reputable Scanner. The cheap scanners you buy are junk and only for basic scanning. I have read all 95s as OBD II with the mitsu plug, then again the money i have in my scanner is more than you would invest in your car. The OBD II gives you OBD II info and the mitsu plug gives the data for vehicle specific info. Many OBD II codes are generics (which is why the cheap code readers work 1/2 the time) but many of the codes required are vehicle specific which is why the correct plug for our cars has 2 plugs on it (OBDII and Mitsu).

Now the cheap scanner Talon has is probably some over the counter 70.00 piece that just plain gives you a scan code. Or some cheap program he loaded on his laptop for 120.00. My scanner ran me 9500.00 with the current updates and gives me a shitload more info that your cheap units.

The 95 is an OBD II computer with OBD1 paramters. This is not new and people can entertain whatever belief they want.

AWD this is not geared towards you even though i quoted you. Certain members here just like to promote inaccurate info till it spews from their ears.


******NOW BACK ON SUBJECT*****


AWDDyna..... you said you shot for 12:1 throughout the boost range? Isnt that a little lean for 20+ psi? I always had the understanding we should shoot for 11.5 (not much of a difference)

In terms of ignition....what kind of retardation did you work with to lessen knock? Did you have any problem with the 4500 range being knock prone?

Also on your slicks.....Did you need to use an additional backspacing to get the 8" slick in without rubbing?

How does the correction factor work on the Mustang Dyno? I have never seen that used, not that i have seen that many (only Buschur's).

I ask because this would all be great info to help this community out since your leaving the platform so suddenly.

Have you taken any thought to persuing the platform to top Hahn's numbers or perhaps tackle the 2.4L road. Lot of money can be made in that realm if you were looking for a turnaround for the R&D and promote shop sales.

Terry

i dont see any knock while in boost, i do see a little around 3000rpm but nothing to worry about, i have the dis2 but dont take any timing out at all.
no back spacing was needed and the slicks are 8.5inch, i do use a wheel spacer but only because the welds just barely hit the caliper, not enough to make the wheel stop spinning but enough to make a mark on the rim, i think i should have gone with the 3.5 offset and i would have been ok.
12 to 1 is fine with c16 race fuel IMO.

i think i could top hahns record with what i got, just change the turbo out for one that flows a bit more and i think 10.5 to 10.3 area without nitrous is very possible, BUT i love my 1g alot more and with the money from the 2g it would easily go 9.5s on its first outing, someone else can have a blast with the 2gnt and i will be there to help along the way if asked.