Just got a DSM!!!

[sho_shane]

Hey guys yall might be happy or sad to here that I got a car. I have 91 GS-T. I have only drove it ones but know that it going to need alot of work. The water pump is leaking so im going to try to fix that next weekend. I also beleave that the HG is Blown and it might be a rod knock im hearing.

I think im going to redo the waterpump and see if that fixes the over heating. I pulled the oil filler cap and there was a little milk on the cap. But I checked the oil on the stick and did not see any. I guess if Its blown ill replace it next weekend to.

As far as the noise I here the guy I got it from was told by one of his friends it was nothing to worry about. So I dont know, maybe change the oil and put some lucus in it and go from there.

The car came with a short block and another head.

I would like to know what yall think, I was thinking if it is a rod knock I would just re-ring and bearing the shortblock I have. Then spend 200-300 on rebuilding the head I have and slap that back in the car. Or I could order a rotating set pretty cheap and go back a little stronger. What do yall think? I would rather get to injoy it alittle before I have to put a grand into it if I could tho.

When I drove the car the one time I did I noticed that the boost went up and the car kinda ran out of power at 3500-4000K. What could this be?

I really hope I get into these cars and that im good at it.

 

[sho_shane]

If your timing belt is loose it is most likely because you reused the old, worn out tensioner. I would definitely replace that ASAP. If you belt slips your valves can bend, meaning more down time and more repair costs. The good news would be that you would be forced to learn EVEN MORE about your car, jk.

As far as the oil on your tensioner, there is probably a leak from above that is dripping down. I would check your valve cover by the cam gears and anything else in that area for leaks. You don't want oil leaks over there because it will shorten your belts life.

Good luck and keep us updated.



Calan, do you know if the FSM and WINCAPS will work on a Mac? I checked FP's website but they don't say.

Well the tensioner looked pretty new. How does the auto tensioner work? Is it by oil or what?

 

[talontd92tsi]

Im sorry that I keep bringing this thred back. Im just not big on starting new ones if I have a open one on the subject.

Ok I put a new water pump on this weekend and I redid the timing setup. I could not find a tensioner anywhere in town. I had to reuse the old one cus my drive way is only for one car and I needed to move the car so I can get to the bravada today. I have some guys coming to haul the bravada off so I can have my shop back for the car.

Anyway, I put it all back together and "reset" the timing. On the first try the car fired right up and ran so I guess I did something right (yay).

The prob is that I noticed putting it back together that there is slack at that arm that the pully sets on and the auto tensioner is. I do not know how to reset the auto tensioner to take the slack out? When the car is running there is slack in the timing belt also. Im guessing its cus the auto tensioner is not doing its job but I dont know.

You can hear a slaping/claping noise on the timing side when its running. I think its that arm hitting the auto tensioner but im not sure.

Also the bolts that hold the auto tensioner were covered in oil, Is this normal? I did not know so I went ahead and put a little silicone on them when I put them back in.

Over all I learnt alot about my car this weekend and feel pretty good about it. Depending on what yall think im probly going to have to pull it right back apart and thats fine. I just want this car back in good shape.

1. The slack in the belt is adjustable through the camcentric bolt in the tensioner pulley, there are 2 holes in it for a special tool (i made my own and in a pinch i have used a fork... yes a KITCHEN fork with bent prongs to do this) take the auto tensioner back off, compress it SLOWLY until you can get a pin (small allen wrench) through the auto tensioner to hold it there. tighten the tensioner pulley until the pin slides in and out freely and you are golden. All of this, of course is after you check the timing marks at #1 TDC to make sure nothing moved on you. T-belt jobs can be a bi*** on these things, but if you take ONE shortcut, it can cost you 16 valves, or worse.

2. I have read (not experienced) that those bolts CAN leak oil through the threads, some sort of thread sealant is recommended when installing them, but it could also be a leak from the valve cover, or cam seals. Cam seal leaks are generally much more noticeable however (lots of oil).

So, in summary, re-do your timing belt job properly BEFORE you start the engine again or you risk major engine damage.

It is also possible that the auto tensioner is worn out, it should hard to compress, not easy, and they can be had from many vendors online the one i used is this one http://www.store.partsdinosaur.com/product303.html

 

[sho_shane]

1. The slack in the belt is adjustable through the camcentric bolt in the tensioner pulley, there are 2 holes in it for a special tool (i made my own and in a pinch i have used a fork... yes a KITCHEN fork with bent prongs to do this) take the auto tensioner back off, compress it SLOWLY until you can get a pin (small allen wrench) through the auto tensioner to hold it there. tighten the tensioner pulley until the pin slides in and out freely and you are golden. All of this, of course is after you check the timing marks at #1 TDC to make sure nothing moved on you. T-belt jobs can be a bi*** on these things, but if you take ONE shortcut, it can cost you 16 valves, or worse.

2. I have read (not experienced) that those bolts CAN leak oil through the threads, some sort of thread sealant is recommended when installing them, but it could also be a leak from the valve cover, or cam seals. Cam seal leaks are generally much more noticeable however (lots of oil).

So, in summary, re-do your timing belt job properly BEFORE you start the engine again or you risk major engine damage.

It is also possible that the auto tensioner is worn out, it should hard to compress, not easy, and they can be had from many vendors online the one i used is this one 4G63 4G63T Timing Belt Tensioner Adjuster 89 - 92 All engines incl. turbo

Thank you for the very helpful post. Ill do it tonight.

 

[talontd92tsi]

Thank you for the very helpful post. Ill do it tonight.

Good luck, post back when you get it finished up.

 

[Calan]

Calan, do you know if the FSM and WINCAPS will work on a Mac? I checked FP's website but they don't say.

Hmmm... not sure. The FSM is just a pdf file(s), so a mac may be able to read it. I believe WINCAPS is Windows specific. (thus the name ... may work with a mac emulator though).

I would definitely replace that tensioner just to be safe. And the two bolt holes can leak oil. I usually use Blue Loctite Gel on them, which seals the threads and provides some thread locking.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Hmmm... not sure. The FSM is just a pdf file(s), so a mac may be able to read it. I believe WINCAPS is Windows specific. (thus the name ... may work with a mac emulator though).

Hmm. The WINCAPS program is what I am the most interested in. However I don't think I want to spend $35 if im not sure it will work. Oh well. Thanks anyways.

 

[talontd92tsi]

Ask and you shall receive

Stealth 316 - WINCAPS Installation

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Ask and you shall receive

Stealth 316 - WINCAPS Installation

I went to the link you provided but there is no Mac version. I'm downloading it just to make sure but I don't think its going to work. Thanks anyways.

*Update: Downloaded all 90mb and it didn't work on my mac. Oh well.

 

[NET ERROR]

Welcome to the DSM world . You will find out soon enough , this site is great ! Everyone here is willing to help . Also , check the Classified section . Lot's of parts for sale . You could save a ton of money .

 

[sho_shane]

Ok well I pulled it all down again lastnight. Im scared though, The timing was off 2-3 teath on the crank. I mean the timing gears matched but the crank gear was off a few teath. I turned the motor over by hand a few times and it turned freely so im thinking its fine.

I drained the oil and checked it out. I did not see anything that looked like metal in it. I ran a magnet through it and again no metal was found. That would tell me that the noise I here is probly not coming from a bearing in the bottom end.

I was going to buy a new timing tensioner but this morning it took a vice and all of my 280 pounds to get it the go in so I could reset the pin. So im thinking its working fine and ill save the money.

 

[99gst_racer]

Ok well I pulled it all down again lastnight. Im scared though, The timing was off 2-3 teath on the crank. I mean the timing gears matched but the crank gear was off a few teath. I turned the motor over by hand a few times and it turned freely so im thinking its fine.

Do a compression test or leak down test. That internal noise you've been hearing was probably the pistons making contact with the valves if yout timing was off 3 teeth.

 

[sho_shane]

Do a compression test or leak down test. That internal noise you've been hearing was probably the pistons making contact with the valves if yout timing was off 3 teeth.

Oh no, The time was right when I was running the car. Its now that I have retimed it that is off now. I do not think it was run with it 3 teeth off. The motor still turns free. Please tell me im ok. I dont have the love for this car I need to tare open the motor and replace the head. Ill just get rid of this thing.

And its not that im a quiter cus im not. But I have not gottin to drive this car since I got it. Its hard to have a pasion for a car whe nyou have not even drove it or riding in one to make you want to build it.

I JUST WANT THIS THING TO RUN!!!!!