Just got a DSM!!!

[sho_shane]

Hey guys yall might be happy or sad to here that I got a car. I have 91 GS-T. I have only drove it ones but know that it going to need alot of work. The water pump is leaking so im going to try to fix that next weekend. I also beleave that the HG is Blown and it might be a rod knock im hearing.

I think im going to redo the waterpump and see if that fixes the over heating. I pulled the oil filler cap and there was a little milk on the cap. But I checked the oil on the stick and did not see any. I guess if Its blown ill replace it next weekend to.

As far as the noise I here the guy I got it from was told by one of his friends it was nothing to worry about. So I dont know, maybe change the oil and put some lucus in it and go from there.

The car came with a short block and another head.

I would like to know what yall think, I was thinking if it is a rod knock I would just re-ring and bearing the shortblock I have. Then spend 200-300 on rebuilding the head I have and slap that back in the car. Or I could order a rotating set pretty cheap and go back a little stronger. What do yall think? I would rather get to injoy it alittle before I have to put a grand into it if I could tho.

When I drove the car the one time I did I noticed that the boost went up and the car kinda ran out of power at 3500-4000K. What could this be?

I really hope I get into these cars and that im good at it.

 

[ineedagsx]

hey, the milk on the cap might not be as bad as you think, if there car wasnt used a lot, or didnt really get up to temp it can cause the water vapors to rise and mix on top, if you drained the oil and its black i wouldnt worry about that... yet. my opinion would be to build up the spare block you have and drop that in if you have the money. I bought a rebuild kit from topline for 550 thats working out great for me. If you dont have the money then just go buy a timing belt, bs belt, new head gasket and a waterpump and see where you end up. The car is 20 years old so get that stuff out of the way. Before you even start tho I'd put it on a lift, drop the oil pan and look inside. either way good luck

 

[sho_shane]

hey, the milk on the cap might not be as bad as you think, if there car wasnt used a lot, or didnt really get up to temp it can cause the water vapors to rise and mix on top, if you drained the oil and its black i wouldnt worry about that... yet. my opinion would be to build up the spare block you have and drop that in if you have the money. I bought a rebuild kit from topline for 550 thats working out great for me. If you dont have the money then just go buy a timing belt, bs belt, new head gasket and a waterpump and see where you end up. The car is 20 years old so get that stuff out of the way. Before you even start tho I'd put it on a lift, drop the oil pan and look inside. either way good luck

Hey thank you, The water pump and timing belt is new. But the person that put the pump on did not seal it good do im going to have to pull it back off and redo the seal.

I was told that I can cut the front half of the driverside motor mount off. That I did not need this. Is this true?

 

[DSMopar]

Christ where's the spelling nazi's when you need them, this thread hurts my brain

 

[mindset]

1) Fill out profile.

2) Knock is possible lifter tick.

3) Loss of power could be a boost leak.

 

[sho_shane]

1) Fill out profile.

2) Knock is possible lifter tick.

3) Loss of power could be a boost leak.

1) Will go do that now.

2) Thank you ill check that out but it sounds lower.

3) The boost holds great on the gauge.

 

[FMFGSX]

Boost leak cannot be ruled out till tested!

 

[sho_shane]

Boost leak cannot be ruled out till tested!

ok, Please lead me in how to do it and I will jump on it.

 

[slinarez25]

Hey thank you, The water pump and timing belt is new. But the person that put the pump on did not seal it good do im going to have to pull it back off and redo the seal.

I was told that I can cut the front half of the driverside motor mount off. That I did not need this. Is this true?

Yes, you may cut off the front half of the driver side motor mount. You don't need it.

 

[sho_shane]

Thank you, Im thinking if it will still hold it good it would free up some room on that side.

 

[FMFGSX]

Visual Frequently Answered Questions - Home Page

 

[sho_shane]

So lastnight I got bored at home and started to tare into the side of the motor to get to the leaking water pump. I hit a stoping point when I seen that it looks like you have to pull the timing belt also. I wanted to ask you guys first before I did so?

If I do need to pull the timing belt do I have to retime it or just not move anything and put the belt back on when im done? If I do have to retime it I do not see any timing marks on the timing gears or anything. Can you guys help me out please.

Oh the pump looks new and he said it was but I think its still leaking out of the weip hole. So im probly going to have to replace that to. The belt looks new but the timeing belt tensioner pully and idler tensioner look all rusted. I know its from the antifreze but I think I might go ahead and replace them as well.

Im just going to knock out one problom at a time. When its all fixed ill have a nice car. My goal is to get to drive it the 161 mile round trip to the DI meet ON THE 2Oth of March. Alot of us are going from the North texas area and I would love for my car to be a part of it. Me getting to drive it there really depends on what I find with this rattle/knock/tap after I get it running again.

 

[Calan]

Thank you, Im thinking if it will still hold it good it would free up some room on that side.

Why do you need to cut the mount? Is it in the way of something?

You can cut it, but you may like having it the way it is from the factory if you ever pull the motor.

So lastnight I got bored at home and started to tare into the side of the motor to get to the leaking water pump. I hit a stoping point when I seen that it looks like you have to pull the timing belt also. I wanted to ask you guys first before I did so?

If I do need to pull the timing belt do I have to retime it or just not move anything and put the belt back on when im done? If I do have to retime it I do not see any timing marks on the timing gears or anything. Can you guys help me out please.

Oh the pump looks new and he said it was but I think its still leaking out of the weip hole. So im probly going to have to replace that to. The belt looks new but the timeing belt tensioner pully and idler tensioner look all rusted. I know its from the antifreze but I think I might go ahead and replace them as well.

Im just going to knock out one problom at a time. When its all fixed ill have a nice car. My goal is to get to drive it the 161 mile round trip to the DI meet ON THE 2Oth of March. Alot of us are going from the North texas area and I would love for my car to be a part of it. Me getting to drive it there really depends on what I find with this rattle/knock/tap after I get it running again.

Yep...gotta pull the t-belt.

From the sound of it, now is a good time to replace the water pump, t-belt, and all timing components. (tensioner, pulleys, and oil pump sprocket). It's a good idea to replace all those components at once, and especially after 60k.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Definitely replace those timing components. Kinda defeats he purpose to have a new belt and old pulleys/tensioners. Trust us, don't take shortcuts with the timing components. Also check the balance shaft belt while you are in there.

Yes there are several timing marks. Before you go any further on your car, go to auto zone and get a Haynes repair manual. It will be the best $15 you will ever spend on your car.

It sounds like you got the right idea with your car. Fix it first! Good luck and if you have questions, which I'm sure you will (we all do), search and post on here. Lots of knowledge on here and a bunch of people that are willing to help.

 

[16G1G4G63Talon]

i would go ahead and do a balance shaft delete too.....one less belt u have to worry about...and kits are cheap

 

[sho_shane]

I will go ahead and buy a book this weekend. That will probly be the next time I get to look at the car with all the snow we are getting in texas.

The pump is new. But I think its bad so I will go from there. on that. I was thinking of using this insted of stock. What do yall think?
STM: BLE TIMING BELT TENSIONER | MT00501 | MT00401 | SRTMT00601

i would go ahead and do a balance shaft delete too.....one less belt u have to worry about...and kits are cheap

BSD is done already.

 

[Calan]

I will go ahead and buy a book this weekend.

I would highly recommend the factory service manual (FSM) over a Haynes or Chiltons manual. You get WAY more information, not to mention the correct factory recommended procedures and data.

You can get the FSM on a CD for $35 from Forced Performance. You also get WINCAPS, which is the factory parts software, along with tech manuals and other goodies.

 

[sho_shane]

I would highly recommend the factory service manual (FSM) over a Haynes or Chiltons manual. You get WAY more information, not to mention the correct factory recommended procedures and data.

You can get the FSM on a CD for $35 from Forced Performance. You also get WINCAPS, which is the factory parts software, along with tech manuals and other goodies.

Thank you for the info and I plan on buying a few parts from FP but Im on a tight buget to get this car back on the road. So for my to get a FSM Ill have to find a place to download it for free.

 

[Calan]

It's well worth the $35. Just being able to look up part numbers for all the little crap your gonna need is worth that.

On the timing parts...

STM makes some nice stuff, but I would just stick with factory OEM parts for all the timing components. Many of the site's supporting vendors carry them at a decent price.

 

[sho_shane]

It's well worth the $35. Just being able to look up part numbers for all the little crap your gonna need is worth that.

On the timing parts...

STM makes some nice stuff, but I would just stick with factory OEM parts for all the timing components. Many of the site's supporting vendors carry them at a decent price.

Ok thank you very much. Ill check it out and see about getting it ordered.

 

[-token4g63-]

Gratz on your 1g bro

 

[sho_shane]

Token thank you very much.

I was just looking up FP and relized that they are right down the road from me.

 

[-token4g63-]

Haha!! thats even better than drivein an 1hour or 2, piece of cake

 

[sho_shane]

Im sorry that I keep bringing this thred back. Im just not big on starting new ones if I have a open one on the subject.

Ok I put a new water pump on this weekend and I redid the timing setup. I could not find a tensioner anywhere in town. I had to reuse the old one cus my drive way is only for one car and I needed to move the car so I can get to the bravada today. I have some guys coming to haul the bravada off so I can have my shop back for the car.

Anyway, I put it all back together and "reset" the timing. On the first try the car fired right up and ran so I guess I did something right (yay).

The prob is that I noticed putting it back together that there is slack at that arm that the pully sets on and the auto tensioner is. I do not know how to reset the auto tensioner to take the slack out? When the car is running there is slack in the timing belt also. Im guessing its cus the auto tensioner is not doing its job but I dont know.

You can hear a slaping/claping noise on the timing side when its running. I think its that arm hitting the auto tensioner but im not sure.

Also the bolts that hold the auto tensioner were covered in oil, Is this normal? I did not know so I went ahead and put a little silicone on them when I put them back in.

Over all I learnt alot about my car this weekend and feel pretty good about it. Depending on what yall think im probly going to have to pull it right back apart and thats fine. I just want this car back in good shape.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

If your timing belt is loose it is most likely because you reused the old, worn out tensioner. I would definitely replace that ASAP. If you belt slips your valves can bend, meaning more down time and more repair costs. The good news would be that you would be forced to learn EVEN MORE about your car, jk.

As far as the oil on your tensioner, there is probably a leak from above that is dripping down. I would check your valve cover by the cam gears and anything else in that area for leaks. You don't want oil leaks over there because it will shorten your belts life.

Good luck and keep us updated.

I would highly recommend the factory service manual (FSM) over a Haynes or Chiltons manual. You get WAY more information, not to mention the correct factory recommended procedures and data.

You can get the FSM on a CD for $35 from Forced Performance. You also get WINCAPS, which is the factory parts software, along with tech manuals and other goodies.

Calan, do you know if the FSM and WINCAPS will work on a Mac? I checked FP's website but they don't say.