Just did compression test pissssed!!!!!

[2GFWDbeast]

Had a shop do my engine build for me. They told me not to do any hard driving for at least 500 miles. So far i only have 199 miles on it, and its been about a month. I decided to do a compression test and it was 160 128 130 160 cause i noticed my vacuum at idle was little on the low side.

I have Je pistons 9.5:1. My vacuum is at 8 in/hg at idle. I do have hks 272 cams. Could it be that piston 2 and 3 haven't seated yet or do i need to goto the shop and bi*** at them, cause they messed something up.

 

[3kgt2nv]

if you have a torque wrench or access to one i would just pop the vc and check them just to make sure

 

[2GFWDbeast]

if you have a torque wrench or access to one i would just pop the vc and check them just to make sure

i did it a few days ago i set it to 90, and everything was good.

 

[DSMTyson]

Man, I really hope that shop doesn't try to f**k you over. I have a feeling they will try.

 

[2GFWDbeast]

idk man will see when the car gets dyno i about a month whether it blows up or not

 

[Talipse96]

What is the name of this shop?

 

[2GFWDbeast]

the shop where iam going is in Illinois. The place is called boostin performance. It's actually hasn't even opened up yet. The guy that owns the place is Deven who has the worlds fastest gt35r running 8's. He used to work at Boomba racing. But is opening up his own shop.

 

[dsm-onster]

Devin Schultz???

 

[2GFWDbeast]

Devin Schultz???

ya why do you know who he is?

 

[untouchablecc]

Im just trying to figure out how you have 5000 tied up in this thing and they didnt even pull the engine. You could have used a 3 stone hone and done the same honing job they did. Im just blown away by this. I would be killing someone right now. I am going to have way less in mine just because im doing my own work minus a 20 over bore and hone for 80 dollars at the shop. Thats why i took it there though is because a machine shop will put a better crosshatch on the cylinder then your typical 3 stone/ball hone.

On a side note. I went to an old school v8 machine shop as well back when i did my first rebuild years ago and the mom and pop machine shop did the same crap to me as they did to you. 2000 dollars later they said dont boost the engine for 1000 miles. Lucky for me i know better and came down every hill here in PA in a low gear with high rpms and then took a nice 10psi drive up 3 mile hill and my compression came back 168 across the board with 7:8.1 C/R.

You cant trust these backwoods shops they might be able to machine but they dont know every single car. I will never go back to that shop ever again and the best information i have found is on THIS SITE, ecmlink fourms , and my Haynes book.

 

[ramsack]

I'm just wondering the kind of honing people are having done that they are barely making any compression at first and it requires an actual break-in to make compression... I thought the new age of plateau honing was supposed to make the cylinder have the most perfect conditions right away instead of needing the rings to seat and wear down the honing peaks a bit.

 

[allwheelTSI]

Yeah, but you have to think about the time it takes the rings to make up for minor bore distortions after everything is bolted together. And yes, this happens torque plate or not.

 

[2GFWDbeast]

Im just trying to figure out how you have 5000 tied up in this thing and they didnt even pull the engine. You could have used a 3 stone hone and done the same honing job they did. Im just blown away by this. I would be killing someone right now. I am going to have way less in mine just because im doing my own work minus a 20 over bore and hone for 80 dollars at the shop. Thats why i took it there though is because a machine shop will put a better crosshatch on the cylinder then your typical 3 stone/ball hone.

On a side note. I went to an old school v8 machine shop as well back when i did my first rebuild years ago and the mom and pop machine shop did the same crap to me as they did to you. 2000 dollars later they said dont boost the engine for 1000 miles. Lucky for me i know better and came down every hill here in PA in a low gear with high rpms and then took a nice 10psi drive up 3 mile hill and my compression came back 168 across the board with 7:8.1 C/R.

You cant trust these backwoods shops they might be able to machine but they dont know every single car. I will never go back to that shop ever again and the best information i have found is on THIS SITE, ecmlink fourms , and my Haynes book.

I dont have 5000 all tied up in the motor. The actual charge including parts and labor for the engine build was 1800 bucks. the other 2400 was other parts that were broke on the car and fabrication done such as intercooler piping, down pipe,exhaust on the car. Heater core was broke, brake calipers and wheel bearings were shot in the car, e-brake was seized up, all gauges needed to be hooked up. The car was a complete mess barley drivable at all.

 

[Dsm4lyfe12]

Any news on your new compression?

 

[2GFWDbeast]

Any news on your new compression?

Im not going to check it till i hit 500 miles and do an oil change. I still have 200 more miles to go. The weather been crappy and temps have been cold, there no heater in the car. The tps went bad so now i need a tps.

 

[untouchablecc]

O i understand now. That makes a lot more sense. I still think you got the shaft on your bottom end. I had a crank polished, rotating assembly balanced with the flywheel and crank pulley. Thats still steep for that kind of work. They didnt do anything to your block except a backyard hone. If you spent the money for forged parts they should be doing a much better hone no excuses. I dont know what all work you had done but unless you have a ton tied up in that head and forged parts im not sure what all you got charged for. If you did spend all that on built internals who ever was doing the work should know how to machine properly to get the desired compression. I dont mean to harp on it at all i just feel bad for you at this point. So much work and effort.

 

[2GFWDbeast]

O i understand now. That makes a lot more sense. I still think you got the shaft on your bottom end. I had a crank polished, rotating assembly balanced with the flywheel and crank pulley. Thats still steep for that kind of work. They didnt do anything to your block except a backyard hone. If you spent the money for forged parts they should be doing a much better hone no excuses. I dont know what all work you had done but unless you have a ton tied up in that head and forged parts im not sure what all you got charged for. If you did spend all that on built internals who ever was doing the work should know how to machine properly to get the desired compression. I dont mean to harp on it at all i just feel bad for you at this point. So much work and effort.

it was 800 bucks for parts for the engine build. They cleaned it with the block still in car. They milled the head, pressure tested it and cleaned it. Also they cleaned my intake manifold, throttle body cause everything was filled with oil when my piston ring cracked. i was charged 50 an hour for labor. To be honest with ya the car was a complete disaster.

I got the car off a trade for my 97 gs-t. I knew that it had a blown head gasket, but that was the extent of what i knew what was wrong with it.

I got the car for many reasons:
All wheel drive
had a 4 bolt rear end
all ready had extensive work done to head
hks 272 cams
brand-new precision sc44 turbo
brand-new 35mm tial waste gate
Eprom
nice 3 inch exhaust
3 1/2 inch intercooler core good for 800hp

All in all grand total included car 8000.00 the parts and labor i had to spend Im hoping for at least 500hp. i see it as 500 awd hp for 8000 dollars isn't really that much. I will be posting video and dyno sheet when it gets done im hoping by end of march.

I just got my ecmlink v3 and speed density in the mail yesterday.

 

[dsm-onster]

ya why do you know who he is?

Devin Schultz on dsmtimes.org

Not sure about the 8 second evo . But he has a 9 second dsm and it is not gt35r it is an hta 35r; significant difference. Buschur is faster and he has an evo and it is not real gt35r but the hta version as well. All the results taken from dsmtimes though.

At first I would say trust him. But I don't know if you're heard him correctly now. He may very well have said not to run the motor hard because it isn't tuned. But you lower the boost and get a decent base tune and run it hard in short spurts (which you should do anyhow). I'm not going to question one with a low 9 sec 2g. But I CAN see you misunderstanding or mishearing him. Did he say something like, 'don't go to redline but short hard bursts in what would be the range of peak torque (peak cylinder pressure)'? You don't need to go to redline to breakin a motor hard. . . Or, did he flat out say not to run the motor hard in any fashion.

I would gather that the fasteners (headbolts, rod bolts) were put together correctly. And I'm sure he takes his blocks to the same shop that he took yours to.

 

[2GFWDbeast]

Devin Schultz on dsmtimes.org

Not sure about the 8 second evo . But he has a 9 second dsm and it is not gt35r it is an hta 35r; significant difference. Buschur is faster and he has an evo and it is not real gt35r but the hta version as well. All the results taken from dsmtimes though.

At first I would say trust him. But I don't know if you're heard him correctly now. He may very well have said not to run the motor hard because it isn't tuned. But you lower the boost and get a decent base tune and run it hard in short spurts (which you should do anyhow). I'm not going to question one with a low 9 sec 2g. But I CAN see you misunderstanding or mishearing him. Did he say something like, 'don't go to redline but short hard bursts in what would be the range of peak torque (peak cylinder pressure)'? You don't need to go to redline to breakin a motor hard. . . Or, did he flat out say not to run the motor hard in any fashion.

I would gather that the fasteners (headbolts, rod bolts) were put together correctly. And I'm sure he takes his blocks to the same shop that he took yours to.

if i said evo sorry. 96 Eagle Talon, FP 3586R, E98 8.98 @ 163 Quickest and Fastest 35r powered 4G63! Byron Dragway 4 cly. Track Record Holder! He wasn't the guy that did the motor work on my car a shop in my town did it. There a machine shop that's been around for 60 years building v8 race motor's. Devin is going to tune my car for me. Iv been talking to him a lot lately and he is in the process of opening up his own shop called boostin performance.

 

[Calan]

Im not going to check it till i hit 500 miles and do an oil change. I still have 200 more miles to go.

Just... wow.

I won't mention this again (and I may have misunderstood your earlier posts), but I can't believe anyone that puts in the elbow grease and hard-earned money on a performance car would skimp out on a proper $20 oil change during a break-in.

The majority of metal-to-metal contact happens in the first 20 miles or so and creates micro contaminants, which act as liquid sandpaper flowing around your engine. Not to mention the fact that during those first few miles you were literally pumping fuel and combustion by-products straight past the rings into the oil supply, which can rapidly break down the oil.

Every additional mile that you put on the car with that original oil is slowly but surely doing some damage, no matter how minor. (At worse case you may have diminished the efficiency of your filter if it's collected a lot of crap).

You may get lucky....but I hope you'll forgive us if we point you back to this thread if your motor doesn't last as long as it should.

 

[2GFWDbeast]

Just... wow.

I won't mention this again, but I can't believe anyone that puts in the elbow grease and hard-earned money on a performance car would skimp out on a proper $20 oil change during a break-in. The majority of metal-to-metal contact happens in the first 20 miles or so and creates micro contaminants, which act as liquid sandpaper flowing around your engine. Not to mention the fact that during those first few miles you were litteraly pumping fuel and combustion by-products straight past the rings into the oil supply, which can rapidly break down the oil.

Every additional mile that you put on the car with that original oil is slowly but surely doing some damage, no matter how minor. (At worse case you may have diminished the efficiency of your filter if it's collected a lot of crap). But to each is own!

You may get lucky....but I hope you'll forgive us if we point you back to this thread if your motor doesn't last as long as it should.

The reason i brought it back to this machine shop was because it was original built there from the beginning. The car ran high 10's with nitrous and a 60-1 sbr turbo 4 years ago with the original owner. So with all that abuse and several runs down the track it lasted for 4 years. The only reason the motor blew was do to other people owning and swaping out parts, to the point where i didn't even know what was on the car.

I'm the 5th owner of this car. The car came with 12,000 dollars in receipts. When i got the car the head gasket was blown on it. I replaced it with another felpro. I didn't get the head resurfaced. I put on 1250cc injectors and got an eprom so i could run E85. What i didn't know what someone took out the 255 pump, and stuck in a denso stock one.

I did a 5th gear pull on the highway which was a mistake on my part. A massive amount of black smoke shoot out which was oil. I knew it was bad my vacuum was at 4 in/hg at idle. The dip stick blew out, and oil was everywhere. Did a compression test 140-130-130-40. Took it to the shop Head gasket blew, the head was severally warped, piston 1 ring broke. I was told the motor was built but it wasn't.

 

[2GFWDbeast]

Devin Schultz on dsmtimes.org

Not sure about the 8 second evo . But he has a 9 second dsm and it is not gt35r it is an hta 35r; significant difference. Buschur is faster and he has an evo and it is not real gt35r but the hta version as well. All the results taken from dsmtimes though.

At first I would say trust him. But I don't know if you're heard him correctly now. He may very well have said not to run the motor hard because it isn't tuned. But you lower the boost and get a decent base tune and run it hard in short spurts (which you should do anyhow). I'm not going to question one with a low 9 sec 2g. But I CAN see you misunderstanding or mishearing him. Did he say something like, 'don't go to redline but short hard bursts in what would be the range of peak torque (peak cylinder pressure)'? You don't need to go to redline to breakin a motor hard. . . Or, did he flat out say not to run the motor hard in any fashion.

I would gather that the fasteners (headbolts, rod bolts) were put together correctly. And I'm sure he takes his blocks to the same shop that he took yours to.

Update compression is now 168-160-160-160 at 375 miles

 

[dsm-onster]

MUCH better! Is this after you've been pushing the motor more instead of 'babying' it?

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

Glad to hear the numbers came up for you.

 

[DSMTyson]

Update compression is now 168-160-160-160 at 375 miles

Nice! Its about time they came up. Hopefully they'll all come up to about 170 around 500 miles. But change your oil filter man. You don't have to change the oil if you want to follow the machine shops instructions. But they said nothing about the oil filter

 

[Tyeler18]

Anyone else notice one cylinder DROPPED compression?