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Junkyard find- convert NA to Turbo?

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gijoe985

15+ Year Contributor
562
20
Dec 13, 2007
Grandview, Washington
Howdy all,

I was just cruising my local junkyard, they had an eclipse and a talon. Both 1gs I am pretty sure. I don't think that either were awd. And I couldn't tell if the talon was a turbo or not. The exhaust was missing from the manifold down and there was a good amount of snow in the engine compartment, so I couldn't see much.

Regardless, if it was a NA 2.0 engine, what would it take to convert to a turbo shortblock? If I bought a turbo rebuild kit, would it be good for a 6 bolt short block? I'll need to read how to tell if it is 6 or 7 bolt again. I didn't get to see what year the car was, all I could tell was that it was a 1g. (I'm still new to the DSM crowd, so I can't identify years right off the bat) Either way, I do know the pistons and cams would be different. But I figure it'd work well for a short block if I got a rebuild kit with new pistons. Are the cranks and rods the same? Thanks for the help guys.
 
Howdy all,

I was just cruising my local junkyard, they had an eclipse and a talon. Both 1gs I am pretty sure. I don't think that either were awd. And I couldn't tell if the talon was a turbo or not. The exhaust was missing from the manifold down and there was a good amount of snow in the engine compartment, so I couldn't see much.

Regardless, if it was a NA 2.0 engine, what would it take to convert to a turbo? If I bought a turbo rebuild kit, would it be good for a 6 bolt short block? I'll need to read how to tell if it is 6 or 7 bolt again. I didn't get to see what year the car was, all I could tell was that it was a 1g. (I'm still new to the DSM crowd, so I can't identify years right off the bat) Either way, I do know the pistons and cams would be different. But I figure it'd work well for a short block if I got a rebuild kit with new pistons. Are the cranks and rods the same? Thanks for the help guys.

You need turbo, mani, ecu, injectors, inter cooler, inter cooler piping, engine harness, it would be easier tp just buy a 1g turbo car and sell the one you have.

You can tell obviously if it is a 6/7 bolt is the crank bolts holding the fly wheel in or if you get on the ground you can feel the oil pan on the timming side in between the pan and crank pulley if the oil pan is round its a 6 if it has a indent it is a 7.

You can also tell because the timming belt covers are differ, but the easy way to tell is by the above.

Blocks are the same pistons and oil pumps differ and oil filter housing differ. Thats it everything else is the same.
 
If I bought a turbo rebuild kit, would it be good for a 6 bolt short block?
Either way, I do know the pistons and cams would be different. But I figure it'd work well for a short block if I got a rebuild kit with new pistons. Are the cranks and rods the same?

Like I mentioned, I am planning on getting an awd turbo car.

I am planning on buying an AWD

Either way, I'm just looking for a 6 bolt swap candidate. And I am pretty certain that the pistons are the only things that would need to be changed. For the short block that is.

Sorry if there was confusion, I thought I made myself clear. Thanks
 
Like I mentioned, I am planning on getting an awd turbo car.

You know... I think you should get an awd car. In fact I would buy an awd car.

I'm sorry, but I feel like nobody read my post. No big deal. If there is a 2.0 DOHC engine that could be bought at a good price... that probably means I should buy a 1g awd car...

:beatentodeath:
 
You know... I think you should get an awd car. In fact I would buy an awd car.

I'm sorry, but I feel like nobody read my post. No big deal. If there is a 2.0 DOHC engine that could be bought at a good price... that probably means I should buy a 1g awd car...

:beatentodeath:


on turbos vs. non turbos: turbos have a boost gauge in the gauge cluster. or is the interior torn apart?
 
on turbos vs. non turbos: turbos have a boost gauge in the gauge cluster. or is the interior torn apart?

I didn't get the chance to see... It was sitting on another car, and covered in about 6-10 inches of snow. So it was not the best thing to be climbing on. I did get a chance to look in the engine compartment (no hood) and I saw that it is a DOHC, but if there were turbo parts, they are all gone now. So I need to get inside, but there wasn't much room for climbing. Not to mention I wasn't there for fun, I was supposed to be looking for an MPV dizzy.

I think the turbo gauge is my best guess for figuring out if it was a turbo or not.

Thanks
 
The NA block does not have oil squirters... so as stated already boost will need to be low if you do turbo your NA if you get the 4g63t block that would make it more fun. And the swap is not that bad in a NA FWD.
 
I personally know 2 guys who run 27 psi and more with no oil squirters. Running no oil squirters have never been proven to bust a block. Not that they arn't beneficial.

Nevertheless, the 6-bolt n/t block has the same TOUGH rods as the turbo 6-bolts. Do yourself favor and swap the stronger, lower compression turbo pistons. They're cheap insurance and give you an excuse to swap in arp headstuds. They're easy to swap. Remove the head and oil pan and push them out the top. Engine stays in the car. Tuning around those weak n/t, high compression (knock prone) pistons could be a real pain, depending on your goal. That is the reason to take it easy on the power output for an n/t block.

Keep the wiring harness, the turbo ecu plugs right in! Just wire up the knock sensor. And get/wire up a resistor pack for the low impedance turbo injectors. Get a turbo throttlebody or get the o-rings and flip over the seals on the n/t throttlebody like I did. I used silicone/lithium grease to encourage swelling. The n/t throttlebody affords the luxury of using a coupler of a bigger diameter than the 1g throttlebody elbow, but still has the larger 1g throttlebody bore. Search. Search. Search. Everything you need is right at your finger tips.
 
Half of the responses in this thread do nothing to help the original poster or even address his question, are you guys just boosting your post count or actually out to help the community? Dude never said anything about buying a fwd car and yet half of the answers address the benifits of awd, wtf guys?

N/t blocks make excellent turbo engines. I run one in my gsx, it came from an Eclipse GS with 156k miles. When I pulled the head I could still see the factory crosshatch on the cylinder walls, the block was absolutly mint. I had the block inspected and honed by my machinist and it was rebuilt with standard size 2g pistons utilizing the original crank and rods. Good luck finding a turbo engine in anywhere near the condition this block was in. Good 6 bolts are getting harder to find, but these n/t blocks are everywhere, they're in far better condition and they're cheap.

The blocks are identical in everyway except for the oil squirters. Call up most good shops and they will tell you to remove them anyways. No engine has ever failed from not having oil squirters, but many have failed because of oil squirters. They're only benificial when they work properly, not at the bottom of your oil pan.

Follow dsm-onster's list in the post above mine and rebuild it into a solid turbo engine and go for it. Don't pay attention to all the "hear-say" in this thread, instead listen to the people who have first-hand expirience with the subject.

Do a search, you will be amazed at how many fast cars run n/t blocks, I personally prefer them over turbo blocks.
 
N/t blocks are almost exact same as turbo blocks. Like purevil said there no oil squirters and change pistons if you keep the same head then you'll need to swap I believe the exhaust cam. its a perfect candidate for a 6 bolt swap. and probably wayyy cheaper at junkyards. Ive seen n/ts in PERFECT condition. and plan on running one with my build. If you find one for cheap I say grab that sucker and start building and dont even think twice about the oil squirters. if you do want the squirters in check out slowboyracing.com and pick some up fairly cheap.
 
To the three guys above. THANKS!!! I had this overwhelming sensation of people reading what I was saying. Regardless, the oil squirters was the answer to my question. I knew about the pistons. Oil squirters I was unaware of. I have been planning on getting a DSM for a while. One of my plans was to build a strong engine/tranny/tcase before I started buying the "go fast" stuff. Lately I have been keeping my eyes open for 2g cars with blown engines. I am hoping to have a 6 bolt rebuilt and ready to drop in when the time comes. I saw this car and figured it'd be a good candidate. Yet agian, I don't know 100% that it was a NT car. I need to look for that boost gauge.

Thanks again guys. And if there are any other parts of value that I should look for, let me know.
 
To the three guys above. THANKS!!! I had this overwhelming sensation of people reading what I was saying. Regardless, the oil squirters was the answer to my question. I knew about the pistons. Oil squirters I was unaware of. I have been planning on getting a DSM for a while. One of my plans was to build a strong engine/tranny/tcase before I started buying the "go fast" stuff. Lately I have been keeping my eyes open for 2g cars with blown engines. I am hoping to have a 6 bolt rebuilt and ready to drop in when the time comes. I saw this car and figured it'd be a good candidate. Yet agian, I don't know 100% that it was a NT car. I need to look for that boost gauge.

Thanks again guys. And if there are any other parts of value that I should look for, let me know.

i'm dropping what was originally a nt 6bolt block into my 2g right now. you'll be fine.
 
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