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J-pipe connection and bov question.

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sonik619

10+ Year Contributor
239
0
Oct 7, 2008
san diego, California
This little hose comes from the J-pipe and then splits to two different places, as you can see here....

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Is this correct?

Also I see screws on this bov as you can see here....

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Is this correct?

Thanks in advance.
 

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Yo, whats going on bro?

Are you sure that hose is going to the J pipe? Fill out your profile so that everyone can know what your working with...

By the way, Im pretty sure your not running a proper blow through system, I see stock intake piping there, if you are not running a MAF + T you should look into recirculating that BOV, or buying one you can.
 
Yo, whats going on bro?

Are you sure that hose is going to the J pipe? Fill out your profile so that everyone can know what your working with...

By the way, Im pretty sure your not running a proper blow through system, I see stock intake piping there, if you are not running a MAF + T you should look into recirculating that BOV, or buying one you can.

Hey what's up, you on aim?

Yeah this is how I bought the car. So I'm going to buy a bov that recirculates. But the one I have now shows screws there, is that normal?

Also yeah it comes from the j-pipe, it comes from behind this hose.

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Nah, no AIM... Not sure about the screws, never really looked into detail on a BOV like that one, know more about the Greddy's and HKS's.... But that screw really does not look like it goes there, looks a little hacked.WTF

Are you running a boost controller of any kind, the only think I can think of that hose might be going to is BCV, but not sure. Does your internal wastegate actuator have a line going to it, what kind of turbo do you have? If you have a J pipe its probably not stock...

Can you snap some more pictures of the engine bay, not so close to the BOV, I want to see how its mounted... Ignore the turbo question above, noticed you updated your mods list...

As far as your BOV goes, I would change that right away. From what I've read I dont think they sell a recirculating kit for that BOV, and they are known to leak even at low boost levels. If your a little on the broke side, look into getting a 1G blow off valve. I hear they hold up pretty good.

I found this picture after doing some searches..... Its a bit small but should give you a better idea... Your J pipe vacuum line should replace the vacuum line going to the turbo housing. Hope this helps.
 

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So in other words, that line has to go somewhere? it looks like its cut off. And yeah I think I'm going to get the hks bov or 1g. Thanks for the info.

O yeah, no boost controller at the moment.
 
So do you have a hose going to the actuator? because coming from your BCV is that T in the picture, one line should go to the actuator, and the other to the j piping fitting you have.

I will check tomorrow, my car also goes to 3000rpm at 60 mph, can this be a timing belt issue?
 
Update: more pictures.

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Hey I connected the vacuum hose together now and i was wondering, I have a hose coming from the j-pipe that connects to some black thing then the other hose goes to the intake, is that where you replace that connector and buy a mbc?

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The black thing you speak of, the one that comes from the t fitting and goes to the intake is called your WGS, or waste gate solenoid. When you get a MBC or EBC you will bypass that valve and place your new one. You will also probably remove the hose that goes to your intake and need to block off that nipple on the intake.

*** WGS valve has a small freebie upgrade you can do. Not sure if you know or not but you can remove the bottom hose.... i think thats the one!!!... and on the nipple of the WGS you will notice it has a small insert, if you carefully remove that insert it's supposed to add about 2 more psi in your stock setup. ***

Here is a link to better help explain the process...
Alex's 2g Waste Gate Solenoid Restriction Removal FAQ
 
Hey I connected the vacuum hose together now and i was wondering, I have a hose coming from the j-pipe that connects to some black thing then the other hose goes to the intake, is that where you replace that connector and buy a mbc?

That black thing pictured is your boost control solenoid (or wastegate solenoid, as said in the above post). One vacuum line runs to there from your intake pipe and the other runs to there from your wastegate, with your boost source teed into that line. When you install an MBC, you remove all of the vacuum lines. You then run one from your boost source directly to the bottom of your MBC. Then you run a vacuum line from the side nipple on your MBC to the wastegate. Nothing goes to your intake pipe. Just leave the BCS plugged in - no need to cap the nipples.
 
Nice thanks guys I'm about to get my transmission rebuilt and just wanted some more information on the car.

I took some pictures

Is this where one of the vacuum hose from the t from the j-pipe goes to?

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big 16g right? no shaft play at all.

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Would you like me to draw up some diagrams of hose routing/connection? I'm not sure if you don't understand what we've been saying or if you have no idea how your car is currently connected. The left side of that tee is going to your wastegate. I can't tell where the center or right sections go to.

Search in this thread to find out what turbo you have:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/57878-what-turbo-merged.html
 
Would you like me to draw up some diagrams of hose routing/connection? I'm not sure if you don't understand what we've been saying or if you have no idea how your car is currently connected. The left side of that tee is going to your wastegate. I can't tell where the center or right sections go to.

Search in this thread to find out what turbo you have:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/57878-what-turbo-merged.html

I understand now, I was just wondering if I can control boost from that little black thing because I hit fuel cut. But I know how everything goes now :D. Thanks.
 
How do you know your hitting fuel cut?:confused:

I researched, but now i kept searching other stuff and I can see it could be different problems as well, so after I get my transmission fix I'm going to buy a dsmlink or sacf with a logger, at 4500-5000 rpm my car stop going and faster and stop and goes at that same speed I guess it's called backfire?
 
Strange that you would hit fuel cut with your set-up. But I would definitely get a few upgrades put in to help out that turbo swap. Begin with a boost gauge and Boost controller of some kind. Make sure the boost is about at 14 psi and you should not have to worry about fuel cut.

Then I would get the SAFC, wideband, fuel pump and some bigger injectors to be able to turn up the boost. But make sure you do all the maintenance before you put strain on your motor...
 
Strange that you would hit fuel cut with your set-up. But I would definitely get a few upgrades put in to help out that turbo swap. Begin with a boost gauge and Boost controller of some kind. Make sure the boost is about at 14 psi and you should not have to worry about fuel cut.

Then I would get the SAFC, wideband, fuel pump and some bigger injectors to be able to turn up the boost. But make sure you do all the maintenance before you put strain on your motor...

New engine :)

So if you had my setup dsmlink wouldn't be needed?

I'm thinking of getting evo fuel pump and 660 injectors
 
Dont get me wrong, from what I hear DSMlink is the best, but in my opinion its very expensive and need a Eprom also.... Right now you can make great hp on just the stuff mentioned above which should still be quite some dollars spent and a good upgrade path. You still need a lot of basic stuff, including knowledge to be able to handle those kinds of upgrades. Just take it easy, read a lot and you'll get there in due time.:thumb:
 
He would also need a logger, in addition to the S-AFC and wideband, to properly tune.

Alright I have a question about that actually. I mean I have read a lot and see that a lot of people have there set ups with no logger, now I know what your thinking when your reading this that its the wrong way, but is it really that bad if your running about 18 psi and have your SAFC tuned evenly with the wideband?

I already almost have everything in my upgrade plan purchased, and it basically matches the OP's but I did not include a logger. Will I get myself into all sorts of problems without one.

Sorry about jumping off topic on your thread OP, but I think this will benefit you as well to hear.
 
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