2G Is this the stock turbo?

[Robertmacstars]

Hi Everyone! I just bought a 2g eclipse gst. It was previously modified and runs fine. I was wondering if anyone can identify this turbo? It doesn't appear to be the stock t25. No markings on the housing.

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[DJRace]

That tape is a really bad idea. Take it out of the car and clean it if you want to know what it really is.

 

[Artofschiffy]

Hard to tell from the pics but it looks like a 16g/14b variant. No markings on the housings may indicate that it is a China 16g, but nobody will be able to tell from those pics.

It looks like your BOV is unrecirculated which is not a good choice since you’re running the stock MAF sensor. The rubber hose on the intake with the plastic bottle cap lodged in it should be connected to your BOV but you’d need a recirculation fitting on that ssqv.

Fix these parking lot repairs before you step on it! Congrats on the new ride!

 

[Vegas Smith]

What you're looking for is a serial number like the one in the picture. You most likely have a chinabay turbo.

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[doubleclutch]

14b and 16G turbos are typically identified by the "j-pipe" coming out of the top of the compressor housing. Most other variants are "downfiring" meaning a j-pipe is required.

 

[802gst]

no not a stock 2g turbo, J pipe says 14b, 16g. And damn that's a hack job.

 

[Robertmacstars]

! Thanks everybody. I suspected it was an aftermarket turbo. So if it is a 16g or 14b variant, how do these particular turbos compare to the stock t25? and should my hks be loose? I can turn it side to side and wiggle it a good bit.

 

[brian9397gsx]

Judging by the adjustable wastegate arm it's an knock off 16g. If it was an authentic 16g then they are an awesome upgrade over the stock t25. The knock offs usually don't last long above stock boost levels. The bov shouldn't be loose I'll be willing to wager that's a knock off also.

 

[802gst]

well I yanked both my t25's out on tsi and gst in favor or the mhi small 16g on both. They honesty don't compare not even close with the 14b vs t25. I love my small 16g's they pull hard and spool almost stock. You can still rock a 14b, 16g all day on stock components and have fun, or upgrade and really have fun. Even on my auto I hated the t25, it's dead stock boost levels and dies fast when turned up. The ONLY thing I hate about 14b, 16g is the j pipe design but I got used to it.
EBay turbos are absolutely garbage (unless a genuine piece of course). I don't think anybody mentioned it may also be a 13g (td04h 13g) can't b sure but mitsubishi 14b and 16g will say td05h on the compressor and also have 49178-xxxxx that's where u find which one. sorry to ramble on but I'm happy to answer any questions you have as I know i had a lot to learn.

 

[95REGF150]

Wow the 2L bottle cap plugging the BOV recirc tube and the duct tape on the J-pipe is a new level of lazy. Just from that I say no way that is a real HKS. I'm sure its an Ebay special same as the UICP and probably the turbo as the other guys have said. L

Looking at the level of install work, if the BOV is loose it's probably missing the O-ring that seals it to the flange on the UICP. Just take the snap ring off and check.

Good luck with the new car man. These are all easy things to fix and otherwise it doesn't look like it's too molested which is a good thing.

 

[brian9397gsx]

Not a 13g from an auto that is clear it's definitely a knock off the side of the cover you can see doesn't have tdo5 or tdo4 cast into it.

 

[chrysler kid]

No one noticed the strut towers covered in Bondo and primer, and that the engine is crooked in the engine bay like it's missing a motor mount?

 

[Robertmacstars]

Thanks to all you guys for jumping in and sharing your knowledge on the matter. I will check out the o-ring situation. I can't wait to get her up to par and get out to some dsm meets. Is there any way to tell if I'm running a stock maf?

Wow the 2L bottle cap plugging the BOV recirc tube and the duct tape on the J-pipe is a new level of lazy. Just from that I say no way that is a real HKS. I'm sure its an Ebay special same as the UICP and probably the turbo as the other guys have said. L

Looking at the level of install work, if the BOV is loose it's probably missing the O-ring that seals it to the flange on the UICP. Just take the snap ring off and check.

Good luck with the new car man. These are all easy things to fix and otherwise it doesn't look like it's too molested which is a good thing.

Yeah I might try to use that coke reward code tho. . Thanks man. I'm super excited about this car. It's one my dream cars for sure. I've owned a plymouth laser, eagle talon tsi awd, and now this eclipse gs-t. I'm glad there is such a die hard community to lean on for support. Thanks you guys!

No one noticed the strut towers covered in Bondo and primer, and that the engine is crooked in the engine bay like it's missing a motor mount?

Yeah it looks like por 15 rust preventer, and I can tell they welded in new metal under that. As for the motor position. it may be the composition of the picture.

 

[95REGF150]

Thanks to all you guys for jumping in and sharing your knowledge on the matter. I will check out the o-ring situation. I can't wait to get her up to par and get out to some dsm meets. Is there any way to tell if I'm running a stock maf?

The stock MAF is the big sensor thats plugged in right between the air filter and that shiny intake tube where the recirc hoses is so cleanly plugged. So your definitely still running it. The only way to remove it and not run it is to change the ECU fuel control algorithm from Mass Air Flow to Speed Density. It requires a different sensor called a MAP sensor. A lot of guys will do that with DSMlink because it is a pressure based system where the MAF measures all the air directly.

It is because that big sensor behind the air filter measures all the air for the engine that if you have any leaks after the sensor (Like your HKS BOV when it vents to open air) the computer thinks the engine has more air in the system then it really does. This means it injects more fuel than it should for the amount of air that is left. What you are left with is a rich condition and while it is better than a lean condition it causes problems.

That is the textbook reason why you should always recirculate your BOV using that little hose back to the intake just like the stock system unless you make the switch to SD. It keeps all the metered air in and nothing is lost. These are the same reasons why you should test for leaks in your intercooler pipes as well. Especially looking at that duct tape job. Any leaks means lost air and incorrect fueling.

 

[Robertmacstars]

I will order the fitting and recirculate the bov. I can see an o2 sensor plug that was ripped out back by the cat. Is that a common tuner mod too?

 

[doubleclutch]

You would also need a intake air temperature sensor (IAT) to run speed density.

The rear O2 sensor should be after (farther towards rear of car) then the Cat. It only measures catalytic efficiency. The only thing that will happen is the CEL will be on if the sensor is missing. It isn't really a mod of any kind, and ECMlink can turn off the CEL.

 

[AntmanAndLittleDi]

The catalytic converter delete is common, but usually done better than pulling wires. There's a bunch of companies that sell stainless exhaust without converters, they're so easy to change out & the holes line right up, no cussing or bending needed. Then just delete it off the ecu & you're golden. BTW, my bov isn't recirculated and I'm having enrichment problems on pulls, I'll be tying mine back in. Looks like you have a easy fixer though, just a couple typical lazy newbie mistakes. You probably did the car a favor by getting it away from that person.