Is mobil 1 5w-30 to thin for rebuild

[havlc2u]

I am just wondering I have a new rebuild and I put
5w-30 into it and the oil pressure is very low when it warms up at cold start it is at around 20-40 it goes up with the rpms. when I remove the oil cap I can see oil getting to the lifters. I do have a BSE and no oil squirters.
but at idle it drops to 3-8psi. I am just wondering should I try like a 10w-30

 

[obsidian]

Your oil pressure should NOT be that low. you may have a much bigger issue here and you need to identify it.

Even with 5w-30 your oil pressure should be much higher. you may need to replace your oil pump.

 

[havlc2u]

I hope not it is a new OEM oil pump. This car has been a nightmare.

 

[kicker91laser]

Sounds like the bearing clearances may not be correct on your new engine...Did you clean the pickup and install a gasket between it and the front case?

 

[TSI_1G_90]

DSM being a nightmare? Unheard of!

 

[boost97gst]

You have a mechanical gauge? My Glowshit elec oil pressure gauge is junk. It reads near 0 when warmed up w 10-40 or 5-30. Im getting a new mechanical gauge for sure, then ill freak out. Id do the same if you have an elec one.

 

[havlc2u]

You have a mechanical gauge? My Glowshit elec oil pressure gauge is junk. It reads near 0 when warmed up w 10-40 or 5-30. Im getting a new mechanical gauge for sure, then ill freak out. Id do the same if you have an elec one.

Yeah I have a prosport evo digital and a mechanical one. The mechanical one seems to show a little more but I noticed that the oil running through the clear line don't seem to always make it to the gauge and the line is only about 2 feet long it is currently mounted under the hood for monitoring. I am hooked to the oil filter housing.

Just wondering dont the filter make a difference also larger the filter the lower the pressure I am sure it's not much but I thought I heard that in the past. I am seeing oil on the lifter and it comes shooting out at higher RPMs.

 

[JusMX141]

Why are you using Mobil 1 on a new engine?

Why are you using 5W30 when Mitsubishi recommends no thinner than 10W30 unless you live somewhere like Siberia?

 

[boost97gst]

Alot of guys are saying 20-50 is the way to go. I think im going there next oil change. What can it hurt? Especially in the summer.
And justins very right: its too thin and i didnt even notice, its synth!! Thats a big no no on breakin. Give it a thousand miles or so before synth

 

[havlc2u]

Why are you using Mobil 1 on a new engine?

Why are you using 5W30 when Mitsubishi recommends no thinner than 10W30 unless you live somewhere like Siberia?

I live close to Siberia Fargo ND gets down to about -35 in the winter that is when the engine was first put together. I just didn't try to start it or anything.

So what oil do you suggest. Everyone says something different.
I think I will change it to 10-w40 tonight and see what happens.

 

[DSM1G90]

10w/30 dino for break-in oils and about the first couple of changes before the synths. I wouldn't do 10w40 this time of year..maybe in the heat of the summer...and NOT 20w/50 .. be like molasses in the oil pan.

If it's that cold, put a drop light underneath the oil pan to keep the oil warm, but just don't go thin.

 

[obsidian]

I'm running 5w-40 full synthetic. The lower the FIRST number the more lubrication your engine is getting while cold. The 40 weight is the protection the engine gets while around 200 degrees.

The 5w-30 you're running should be fine on a mostly stock engine with not too much power output over stock.

the synthetic part can cause brand new bearings to not break in properly so that may need to be addressed.

Get that mechanical gauge and check your oil pressures on it.

 

[1Gina2G]

Just curious if you have the oil squirter plugs in if you're not running squirter? That's what my problem was all because Dsm graveyard didn't install them

 

[PieEyedPiper]

I'm running 5w-40 full synthetic. The lower the FIRST number the more lubrication your engine is getting while cold. The 40 weight is the protection the engine gets while around 200 degrees.

The 5w-30 you're running should be fine on a mostly stock engine with not too much power output over stock.

the synthetic part can cause brand new bearings to not break in properly so that may need to be addressed.

Get that mechanical gauge and check your oil pressures on it.

But then weird things like this happen. 5w30 Mobil1 pours more thin at 0* than Mobil 0w-40 does. Bobistheoilguy.com

 

[ghostd'GST4life]

10w-30 is the way to go. since your breaking in your engine you will have to change the oil fairly often at first. Even with that stock oil pressure shouldn't dip that low. like a few people said check the oil pump and all lines. even check your remote oil cooler and check for blockages..

 

[JusMX141]

The lower the FIRST number the more lubrication your engine is getting while cold. The 40 weight is the protection the engine gets while around 200 degrees.

I've heard that said many, many times....and I still don't buy it. If 5W30 was truly the same as 10W30 except being thinner when cold, Mitsubishi wouldn't recommend 5W30 only in climates that never exceed 60*f. I've also known of a few instances where 5W30 caused major valve seal leakage in higher-mileage 4G63's and 10W30 did not. They're obviously different, and I'll never use thinner than the recommended 10W30.


The engine should be broken-in using a SAE30 non-detergent or low-detergent break-in oil. After it's properly broken-in, swtich to your favorite 10W30, 10W40, 15W40, or 20W50 oil based on your climate and/or driving conditions.

 

[dberry]

Her is my personal recommendation use 15-40 rotella oil, it has no detergents and more zinc than normal oil, its cheap and it is great for breaking in a motor, my car runs about 25-30 psi at idol

I fully rebuilt my motor it only has about 60 miles on it, but with thicker oil it is always a good idea to warm the car up first so the heavy oil thins out for proper lubrication

 

[evileagleawd]

I use Valvoline VR1 20w-50. Like dberry mentioned lots of zinc. But i would not use anything thinner then 10w-30!

 

[JusMX141]

Her is my personal recommendation use 15-40 rotella oil, it has no detergents and more zinc than normal oil,

Absolutely wrong.

Diesel engines have higher compression, meaning more blowby, meaning more oil contamination from combustion, meaning a higher detergent is required. Diesel oils have a higher detergent content than their gasoline counterpart.

This thread is hinging on turning into a "here's what oil I use" thread, and we already have about a thousand of those.

 

[dberry]

I have built many engines and rotella is good fir break in and good for turbos, yea
It is an oil that alot of desel motors use , and it does have detergents but its not a bad thing to have them when you r breaking in a motor, there will be minor metal shavings during break in and also dirt from having the motor completely apart, its something that can't be helped, a detergent based oil will assit keeping the main and rod bearings clean , therefore your filter can more easily remove sediment and debri

Just find something that works for u and stick with it, there many break in oils out there and for the most part all of them have there pros and cons, only reason I use rotella for break in is that #1 its cheep
#2 more zinc
#3 Turbo Friendly Oil (in other words not as likely to seep past seals in Turbo nut any non synthetic oil with about a 15-40 to 20-50 weight will give u th same effects )

 

[My1GLaser]

What were the clearances on your main bearings when you rebuilt the motor? IMO that determines what viscosity oil you should run as much as the climate you live in. IIRC mine are between .002 to .0025 plus I live in the south, so 10w30 wouldn't be a good choice for me.

If you have a new OEM pump then that shouldn't be the problem if it was installed correctly.

Make sure there aren't any leaks in your pressure line.

Try moving your pressure line to different spots. Head, turbo inlet, etc. Make sure you're getting an accurate reading.

Run what is necessary so your pressure is correct, assuming you have accurate readings...

 

[donniekak]

I've heard that said many, many times....and I still don't buy it. If 5W30 was truly the same as 10W30 except being thinner when cold, Mitsubishi wouldn't recommend 5W30 only in climates that never exceed 60*f. I've also known of a few instances where 5W30 caused major valve seal leakage in higher-mileage 4G63's and 10W30 did not. They're obviously different, and I'll never use thinner than the recommended 10W30.


The engine should be broken-in using a SAE30 non-detergent or low-detergent break-in oil. After it's properly broken-in, swtich to your favorite 10W30, 10W40, 15W40, or 20W50 oil based on your climate and/or driving conditions.

They are the same viscosity at 200* when new. The larger the difference in numbers the more viscosity modifiers are used, and the thinner the oil gets as it shears down. So, after both oils have sheared down some, the 5w-30 is thinner than the 10w-30.

Another difference is the different API certification for 5w-30 and 10w-30. They have different additive packages. All the thinner oils have been reformulated for fuel economy, and emissions.

 

[obsidian]

The reason a lower number w rating oil will burn/leak more is when the engine is cold. When an engine is cold the seals are smaller due to contraction thereby letting thinner liquids by a bit easier. When the engine warms up, the seals and metals expand causing a better seal.

There is why a 5w-30 would burn more oil over a 10w-30. The beginning run of a cold engine will burn/leak it more than the 10w-30 would because the thicker oil isn't escaping as quickly due to it being thicker.

I've experienced this first hand. Had a Spec V sentra. I put 0w-40 oil in it after a headgasket rebuild for the performance. Burned through a quart of oil in 2 weeks. Changed it 2 weeks later back to 5w-30 and burned no oil.

Yes, if you noticed the operating viscosity was actually thinner and I burned LESS oil. All of it happens when the engine is cold. This is true only to a healthy engine of course.