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2G Installing an Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator?

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tschuhly

Proven Member
128
34
Nov 6, 2024
York, Pennsylvania
I am new to the DSM world since buying my 97 GST in pieces and trying to get it back together. I also realize that I am reviving and old thread LOL! It came with this AFPR and I was wondering if I needed to find a way to hook it up to the Fuel Pressure Solenoid. My thinking would be no since the purpose of the AFPR is to be tuned precisely but wasn't sure. Also, if it is not hooked up to the FPS, would that through an engine code?
 
I was wondering if I needed to find a way to hook it up to the Fuel Pressure Solenoid. My thinking would be no since the purpose of the AFPR is to be tuned precisely but wasn't sure. Also, if it is not hooked up to the FPS, would that through an engine code?
Required? No. Throw a code? No, unless you unplug the solenoid.
If you want the AFPR to work like stock just use the vacuum line that's already going to the stock regulator. Why do you want to bypass the FP solenoid?
 
Required? No. Throw a code? No, unless you unplug the solenoid.
If you want the AFPR to work like stock just use the vacuum line that's already going to the stock regulator. Why do you want to bypass the FP solenoid?
The car that I bought didn't come with the stock FPS and I have heard that they are very hard to find/expensive. So, before I got into looking for one, I figured I would ask.
Also, I am kinda learning as I go so I like double checking with people that actually know what they are doing, such as yourself haha.
 
The car that I bought didn't come with the stock FPS and I have heard that they are very hard to find/expensive. So, before I got into looking for one, I figured I would ask.
Also, I am kinda learning as I go so I like double checking with people that actually know what they are doing, such as yourself haha.
I would just leave the solenoid as is.
 
The only thing the solenoid does is slightly increase base fuel pressure at idle/vacuum. Not required but maybe helps if you have issues stalling/cold starts.
 
The only thing the solenoid does is slightly increase base fuel pressure at idle/vacuum. Not required but maybe helps if you have issues stalling/cold starts.
Yup. In my eyes it's kind of like a choke. 30 years ago I accidently hooked up a boost gauge on the wrong side of the solenoid. There was no vacuum on the gauge until the car warmed up a little. End result is as stated. A little more fuel pressure at cold startup.

On a 2g if you electrically disconnect that solenoid it will flag a CEL.
 
I really appreciate you guys!

As I stated, I am kind of learning as I go and although this is probably common sense to you guys this really helps. So, if I understand solenoids in general, they simply need to be hooked up electronically but not completely to avoid an engine light (obviously, this will also mean that it would work).

I was kind of going into this thinking they acted as a sensor and if not hooked up correctly that they would through a light, but I am learning that this is not entirely the case.
 
I was kind of going into this thinking they acted as a sensor and if not hooked up correctly that they would through a light, but I am learning that this is not entirely the case.
Correct. It does not act as a sensor. It's a simple output device. ECU does know that it's there.
 
One last question that I just thought of. I know that they make a thing to hook up to the SRS plugs to allow the plug to be disconnected without throwing a code. Is it possible to hook up 2 wires and a resistor to trick the computer into thinking that the solenoid is there? I am just asking in case I cannot find one of the solenoids.
 
One last question that I just thought of. I know that they make a thing to hook up to the SRS plugs to allow the plug to be disconnected without throwing a code. Is it possible to hook up 2 wires and a resistor to trick the computer into thinking that the solenoid is there? I am just asking in case I cannot find one of the solenoids.
I have heard of that yes but I have no specific info.
 
Are you able to post a wanted ad here in the classifieds? That might be the easiest way to obtain one.
That's a good idea. I am going to see which solenoids are missing as I hood up the harness and then probably post them all at once. I think the person that had the car before me didn't care about emissions so I will probably be needing all of the ones that involve emissions testing...
 
I am planning on using -10 AN line for the fuel. Should I also use the same for the return line or is it pointless to make that bigger? Also, would it make sense to use bigger line from the filter to the rail or is that not necessary as well?

I just wanna make sure I'm not wasting money and line. I am also completely new to doing anything like this so thank you!
 
I am planning on using -10 AN line for the fuel. Should I also use the same for the return line or is it pointless to make that bigger? Also, would it make sense to use bigger line from the filter to the rail or is that not necessary as well?

I just wanna make sure I'm not wasting money and line. I am also completely new to doing anything like this so thank you!
How much power are you trying to make? -8an is plenty for 800whp. Usually you can get by the the return being one size smaller than the feed but both the same would be ideal.
 
How much power are you trying to make? -8an is plenty for 800whp. Usually you can get by the the return being one size smaller than the feed but both the same would be ideal.
I don't really know but it's gonna be my DD so I'm thinking like 400. I have a full length return line I just figured I'd save it if I didn't need to use it for the car right now.

What are your thoughts about the line running from the filter to the rail? Should I do -8 as well or is the stock line fine for that?
 
I don't really know but it's gonna be my DD so I'm thinking like 400. I have a full length return line I just figured I'd save it if I didn't need to use it for the car right now.

What are your thoughts about the line running from the filter to the rail? Should I do -8 as well or is the stock line fine for that?
For 400hp the OEM lines from the tank are plenty. Just upgrade to -6an from the filter to rail and rail to AFPR. Plenty.

Extreme PSI carries everything needed in one kit: https://www.extremepsi.com/store/Fu...Gauge-Version-2-Mitsubishi-Eclipse-90-99.html
 
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