Installed Throttle body and now problems

[turbodsm18]

Alright, So I installed a 1G 63mm throttle body from Steve Monroe (throttlebodys.com) on my 2G and now I have some problems.

1) My idle has finally worked itself out kinda. When I start the car on a cold day, it revs up to 2400 rpms and sits there for a little but it will eventually drop back down to about 900 rpms. Would my TPS sensor cause this if it was a little off? Before the throttle body, it would rev to about 2000 rpms and idle right at 750 rpms when fully warmed.

2) I installed the throttle body and did a boost leak test and it is still leaking through the TPS sensor. I thought that the new shaft seals would prevent that from happening? That was the reason I bought the throttle body in the first place.

3)When I first try and push in the gas pedal, it feels stiff at first (just until i tap it lightly) then it softens up but when I completely let off the pedal and it returns to it position, It does it again. Could this be because the throttle body is new(or rebuilt) but pretty much new and the spring on the throttle body is still stiff?

Please, Any help is greatly appreciated and I really need to figure this out quickly!

Thanks everyone for helping!!!

-Kevin-

Edit : Also how do I check the voltage on the TPS sensor with it on the car. I mean how do connect to the sensor when It is plugged in???

 

[JayRolla]

The idle problem is the boost leak, not sure why its leaking there though, never had that problem.

Make sure the cable is not binding or the new Throttle plate is sticking.

 

[romeen]

I would recommend contacting Steve and running these issues by him. From my experience he puts a lot of pride in his work and I think he would likely be able and willing to help you.

Relative to the stiff gas pedal, does it feel stiff when you twist the throttle linkage by hand? You can also have someone open the throttle plate by hand and keep it open (with car off obviously) while you push on the gas pedal. If it is still stiff then the cable is binding somewhere. If not then I would be concerned of the possibility that the throttle plate might be sticking a little.....potentially very dangerous.

 

[turbodsm18]

I would recommend contacting Steve and running these issues by him. From my experience he puts a lot of pride in his work and I think he would likely be able and willing to help you.

Relative to the stiff gas pedal, does it feel stiff when you twist the throttle linkage by hand? You can also have someone open the throttle plate by hand and keep it open (with car off obviously) while you push on the gas pedal. If it is still stiff then the cable is binding somewhere. If not then I would be concerned of the possibility that the throttle plate might be sticking a little.....potentially very dangerous.

Today I just installed a new throttle cable ( non cc version) and it seemed to maybe help a little bit but it is still does it.

I believe I may contact steve and see if I could send this throttle body back to him so he could double check everything to make sure its in perfect working order.

 

[danny_l_2005]

Did you use Di-electric grease when you installed the o-rings? Also check your ISC.

 

[turbodsm18]

Did you use Di-electric grease when you installed the o-rings? Also check your ISC.

The throttle body was built by another guy who specializes in rebuilding them. Im just having problems with it.

 

[turbodsm18]

Well I spoke with Steve through emails and I am going to send the throttle body back to him so he can double check everything and install even newer seals.

I would like however to try this one more time. Does anybody know of a good way to seal the throttle body the manifold and throttle body elbow. The gasket are to small and I dont know if thats the right way to do it.

Also, I need to find a way to connect a volt meter to the TPS sensor and have it still get power. I mean, with it unplugged I can get volts to it, only ohms. And then when it is plugged in, how do I connect the voltmeter to it?

Steve Monroe has been nothing but excellent help and I assure you that these throttle bodies are top notch.

-Kevin-

 

[kmoore]

I would like however to try this one more time. Does anybody know of a good way to seal the throttle body the manifold and throttle body elbow. The gasket are to small and I dont know if thats the right way to do it.

You may want to try adding a small, thin layer of RTV on both gaskets to insure a proper seal.

 

[romeen]

^^^^Agreed, the RTV will work fine.

This may help you with testing the TPS: http://www.plymouthlaser.com/tps.htm

 

[turbodsm18]

^^^^Agreed, the RTV will work fine.

This may help you with testing the TPS: http://www.plymouthlaser.com/tps.htm

The only problem with that write up is that it is for a 1g TPS sensor. I need to know how to do it for a 2G TPS sensor because it has 4 prongs not 3.

If someone could help me find a way to test this on a 2G TPS that would be great.

-Kevin-

 

[romeen]

Maybe this one will be more helpful. Scroll about 3/4 down the page.
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/2gtbswap.htm

 

[turbodsm18]

Maybe this one will be more helpful. Scroll about 3/4 down the page.
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/2gtbswap.htm

Thats what I did when I installed the TPS.

My question now is.......How am I supposed to get a voltage reading when the sensor is plugged in? How do I connect the voltmeter to the sensor? Do I need to make a special clip or anything?....This is what Im confused on.

Romeem...Thanks for your help so far though, I do appreciate it!!!

-Kevin-

 

[Kloopofadown]

I also bought a bored TB from Steve and am having this sticking throttle issue, but I noticed that it only sticks when the engine is running. I've sent it back to him once and he told me that it behaved perfectly on the bench, but does the bench simulate the vacuum the engine would be pulling at idle?

 

[TSG59_Steve]

Did you get the issue resolved? I have the same tb and you guys have me worried.

The engine isn't in so I don't know if it will have the same problems as you guys or not, but if it does I would like to know what you had to do to fix it.

 

[SwampRat]

I'm about to do the same thing you guys are doing. There is an idle stall position switch on the one 1g and I removed it, this will make the throttle blade seat fully in the throttle body. If this is what is causing the problem then I'll reinstall it and use it to set the blade and this should fix the problem.

I'll keep you all posted if this is the,"simple fix".

 

[Kloopofadown]

Well, swamp rat, my throttle will only stick when the engine is running aka pulling a vacuum on the throttle plate. I've tried setting and resetting the idle position switch countless times to no avail. My ISC is working fine too, not that the ecu even uses it because the idle is too high.
I'm still driving around with a 2000k idle and a sticky closed throttle that you gotta kick to get it open. I've also noticed that when decelerating in gear the exhaust has the kinda burlbly popping of a v8 sound to it, at least that's how I would describe it.

 

[SwampRat]

Sorry for the delay in replying back, I installed the manifold and throttle body about two weeks ago and everything went in with no problems.

The idle however was around 1500 though.
I reseated the plunger on the IAC but it did not make a difference.
After a few days I could just smell a little bit of anti-freeze smell coming out of the exhaust.
I swapped out the the IAC/coolant body from my original TB and this solved that problem,"nothing was warped and the gasket looked good and could not find the source of the coolant betting into the TB though".

The idle now dropped down to around 1200.
While driving and monitoring the wide-band A/F I discovered that when letting off the throttle the A/F hovered around 12 to 13, it should have jumped up to 21 as the ECU should have stopped the pulse to the injectors because it was decelerating with the throttle fully closed.

I retested the TPS and sure enough it was off slightly, so even when the throttle was fully closed the ECU still thought I was at about %3 open throttle.

Now the car idles correctly at 950 rpm's

While I was at it I also bypassed the coolant line to the TB as I'm only running the car in the summer anyways.

The swap has made a difference with the turbo as well, I have the Greddy Profec-e01 and I now have to readjust the duty cycle for the vacuum solenoid at the set rpm points.

The stock ECU is still adjusting the A/F with now problems as well.

Anyways that's what I ran into with my swap and after,"Fine tuning the TPS" life is good.

 

[steve]

My question now is.......How am I supposed to get a voltage reading when the sensor is plugged in? How do I connect the voltmeter to the sensor? Do I need to make a special clip or anything?....This is what Im confused on.

Assuming your using a 2G TPS (like you should) the adjustment procedure is 99% the same as it would be on a 2G TB. Inset the feeler gauge between the pulley and the stop screw (1G IPS) and then rotate the TPS to where the internal IPS switches betwinn continuity ro no continuity with a ohmmeter. The actual TPS output voltage at that point have a very large specification (0.4 to 1.0v) but that's just a range to know when the TPS is bad. You could skip the check and have a >90% chance it's ok.

So from the RRE page:

Closed TP Switch and TP Sensor Adjustment [2G]

1. Disconnect the connector of the TPS.
2. Connect ohm meter between terminals 3 and 4.
3. Insert a feeler gauge with thickness 0.45mm (.0177 in.) between the throttle stop and the throttle lever.
[Fold a piece of paper in half 4 times if you don't have the feeler -Ed.]
4. Loosen the TPS mounting bolts. Turn the TPS all the way counter
clockwise.
5. Check for continuity in this condition.
6. Slowly turn the TPS clockwise until the point where continuity and
non-continuity is found (pins 3 and 4).
7. Tighten the TPS mounting bolts.
8. Check the voltage between pins 2 and 4 of the TPS with the ignition
switch on, but the engine not started.
9. Standard value: 400 - 1000 mV
[Measure at the ECU pins or on your SAFC]
10. Remove the feeler gauge.