IM STUMPED 1G tranny shifting problems

[Blaze4G63]

IM stumped i have just put a new 2600 ACT clutch in with a act flywheel it was stepped correct to .610 i aslo put a brand new master and slave cylinder bleed everything right...so i am having problems geting into gear when the car is on...so i adjusted the rod and i can get it in but now the valve on the master is closed so the slave doesnt bleed any fluid back but it is the only way i can get into gear when the car is on.....it was working perfect 3 days ago strong pedal and clutch grabed right in the middle now the cluch grabbs off the floor now and pedal feels weaker......so IM STUMPED AND GETTING PISSED I FOLLOWED JACKK TRANSMISSIONS EVERYWORD ON T"HE CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT VIDEO IM STUMMMMP

 

[govproperty]

What method did you use to bleed the system? Did you check your clutch fork while you were in there? It may need to be shimmed. But if it is feeling weak it sounds like air in the system.

 

[Blaze4G63]

no i didnt check the fork would that be the problem?? i know the system is bled right. it all work prefectly for 3 days nice strong pedal and the enagement was right in the middle now its off the floor

bump any help here????????????????????????????????????? clutch pedal assembly????????

 

[govproperty]

Have you seen the RRE page on clutches? I hay be of some help. RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info
Yes, it could also be the clutch pedal. I believe that there is a good write up on here somewhere. It is not fun to pull out just to check.

 

[Blaze4G63]

Have you seen the RRE page on clutches? I hay be of some help. RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info
Yes, it could also be the clutch pedal. I believe that there is a good write up on here somewhere. It is not fun to pull out just to check.

thanks man your one of the only ones with a lil bit of help...since i guess no one on the fourms know anything about this i guess ill just have to find out for myself then, i guess i shouldnt share any info when i do since no one on here does.....im just going to overhaul everything the lines and the pedal assembly...then if that doesnt work im pulling the tranny and getting a new pivot ball and fork..ill just replace everything i can since i work at an auto parts wholesaler thanks for none of the help guys!!!!!!!!except GOV

 

[doubleclutch99]

Did you check to see if the clutch fork is in the center of the rectangle that it sticks out of. ie center , left of center , right of center. bring us your findings sir. and then we can help.

 

[BoostedBeaver]

since i guess no one on the fourms know anything about this i guess ill just have to find out for myself then, i guess i shouldnt share any info when i do since no one on here does

Really, this is no way to treat members that you are looking for help from. It has been a few days. Someone offered you help, and yet you reply with the above statements and no findings to help us help you. You really should not burn what few bridges you may have.

Now that you have hopefully learned a valuable lesson about how to treat those that can help you, lets give you some work to do.

Check the clutch fork's position as stated above AND REPORT BACK with your findings.

Also try looking at the bushings on the clutch pedal assembly. Pics are on the RRE link and may be able to help you spot the problem. Another way is to check the free play in the clutch pedal. This will let you know if further investigation is needed into the Pedal assembly.

Make sure that your shifter linkage is adjusted to the FSM specs. If you do not yet have a copy of the FSM, One of our "UNHELPFUL MEMBERS" has been so kind as to provide a link where you can get this for free.

After you do what is asked above, report back with your findings, pictures, and whatever other issues you find along the way.

You should be grateful for the help that is provided to you instead of ungrateful for not getting more replies. Better to get one person with hands on experience than ten who are guessing what might be a solution. Again hope you take the first few sentences of this post to heart and realize that this site has more to offer than you will ever know. WTF

 

[Blaze4G63]

heres a video im just so pissed because it seems like im the only one with this dam problem

dsm clutch problems - YouTube

 

[BoostedBeaver]

The video seems to show a worn clutch pedal but again.....

Check the clutch fork's position as stated above AND REPORT BACK with your findings.

Look at the last picture in this link and read the instructions along with it. RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info

Also try looking at the bushings on the clutch pedal assembly. Pics are on the RRE link and may be able to help you spot the problem. Another way is to check the free play in the clutch pedal. This will let you know if further investigation is needed into the Pedal assembly.

This is from Jack's Page

1) With all of these clutches it is highly recommended to use the factory throw out bearing from Mitsubishi.
2) If you use a 4 or 6-puck disk DO NOT use the sprung units! The 4 or 6-puck units are too aggressive for the sprung hubs and the hubs break often at the rivets.
3) The more aggressive the disk and hub springs, and lighter the flywheel the more torsional whip/engine harmonics will resonate through the drive train. IOW, if you hear a womp-womp-womp noise through the driveshaft at moderate load while driving, it is the noise resonating through the shaft as there is no longer any mass at the flywheel or absorption at the disk to take it away. This is normal when modifying the clutch in an AWD car and just another noise to deal with.
4) When using a heavier clutch you absolutely have to adjust the clutch pedal assembly for more throw and be sure the clutch hydraulic system is in excellent condition. You will also need to perform this test to be sure you don’t have a dragging clutch and damage your tranny:
A) Have the car running with the e-brake off so it can roll.
B) Push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and hold it there.
C) Turn off your launch limiter in DSM link if equipped so the engine can hit 7K RPM.
D) Put the car into 1st gear.
E) Rev the engine up until you feel the car start to move forward. If the car moves forward below 7200RPM, your clutch is dragging.
5) The more aggressive the clutch, the shorter the life expectancy. On average, we see about 1 year (10k miles) of street and strip use out of a street disk ACT 2600 clutch.
6) When replacing clutch master or slave cylinders you absolutely have to use OEM factory units from Mits (the dealer). DO NOT buy OEM ‘replacements’ from ebay or the autoparts stores. They are junk and will ruin your tranny!
7) If a 1G DSM is having a heavier clutch assembly installed, the clutch pedal z-bar needs to be inspected for wear. One way to check is to pull up on the pedal. If it moves up by hand it is bad and needs to be replaced or the clutch will always drag and damage the tranny. DO NOT weld the pedal assembly! This doesn’t work! Replace the parts with new ones from the dealer. Come on, give us a break, they are cheap and it’s not worth having a shortened throw due to a hack-job welded clutch pedal assembly because spending $100 to do it right is too much. The headaches of not replacing the parts and having to do a tranny rebuild and re-do the clutch pedal assembly all over again will make you wish you didn’t cheap out on that $100.

If you insist on welding, here is another thread posted by a helpful member.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-drivetrain/156805-1g-clutch-pedal-welding-bushing-how.html

Make sure that your shifter linkage is adjusted to the FSM specs. If you do not yet have a copy of the FSM, One of our "UNHELPFUL MEMBERS" has been so kind as to provide a link where you can get this for free.

What about this.

One new thing is you could take a peak at the master if you are worried about it. Pull the boot back on the master from the inside of the car. If fluid leaks, a seal has failed.

I have provided you with a "trouble shooting guide" so to speak. If you can perform these test and report back we will tell you what is wrong. It may take some time but we need all the details. Please perform the above steps and we will go from there.

 

[Blaze4G63]

The video seems to show a worn clutch pedal but again.....



Look at the last picture in this link and read the instructions along with it. RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info



This is from Jack's Page

1) With all of these clutches it is highly recommended to use the factory throw out bearing from Mitsubishi.
2) If you use a 4 or 6-puck disk DO NOT use the sprung units! The 4 or 6-puck units are too aggressive for the sprung hubs and the hubs break often at the rivets.
3) The more aggressive the disk and hub springs, and lighter the flywheel the more torsional whip/engine harmonics will resonate through the drive train. IOW, if you hear a womp-womp-womp noise through the driveshaft at moderate load while driving, it is the noise resonating through the shaft as there is no longer any mass at the flywheel or absorption at the disk to take it away. This is normal when modifying the clutch in an AWD car and just another noise to deal with.
4) When using a heavier clutch you absolutely have to adjust the clutch pedal assembly for more throw and be sure the clutch hydraulic system is in excellent condition. You will also need to perform this test to be sure you don’t have a dragging clutch and damage your tranny:
A) Have the car running with the e-brake off so it can roll.
B) Push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and hold it there.
C) Turn off your launch limiter in DSM link if equipped so the engine can hit 7K RPM.
D) Put the car into 1st gear.
E) Rev the engine up until you feel the car start to move forward. If the car moves forward below 7200RPM, your clutch is dragging.
5) The more aggressive the clutch, the shorter the life expectancy. On average, we see about 1 year (10k miles) of street and strip use out of a street disk ACT 2600 clutch.
6) When replacing clutch master or slave cylinders you absolutely have to use OEM factory units from Mits (the dealer). DO NOT buy OEM ‘replacements’ from ebay or the autoparts stores. They are junk and will ruin your tranny!
7) If a 1G DSM is having a heavier clutch assembly installed, the clutch pedal z-bar needs to be inspected for wear. One way to check is to pull up on the pedal. If it moves up by hand it is bad and needs to be replaced or the clutch will always drag and damage the tranny. DO NOT weld the pedal assembly! This doesn’t work! Replace the parts with new ones from the dealer. Come on, give us a break, they are cheap and it’s not worth having a shortened throw due to a hack-job welded clutch pedal assembly because spending $100 to do it right is too much. The headaches of not replacing the parts and having to do a tranny rebuild and re-do the clutch pedal assembly all over again will make you wish you didn’t cheap out on that $100.

If you insist on welding, here is another thread posted by a helpful member.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-drivetrain/156805-1g-clutch-pedal-welding-bushing-how.html



What about this.

One new thing is you could take a peak at the master if you are worried about it. Pull the boot back on the master from the inside of the car. If fluid leaks, a seal has failed.

I have provided you with a "trouble shooting guide" so to speak. If you can perform these test and report back we will tell you what is wrong. It may take some time but we need all the details. Please perform the above steps and we will go from there.

my fork is right in the middle

 

[Artago]

@Blaze: Hey bud, I feel your pain. I've been having the same issue, mine also started after a clutch install. I've also done all the adjustments, new slave, new master, etc.

The only thing I haven't tried is a shifter cable swap. Are yours in good shape?

Tom

PS: If you find the problem and fix it please post back. I've been fighting this for a year now and it's really annoying.

 

[BoostedBeaver]

If it is in the middle then the pivot ball and fork can be suspected good.

What about the rest?????

 

[Blaze4G63]

@Blaze: Hey bud, I feel your pain. I've been having the same issue, mine also started after a clutch install. I've also done all the adjustments, new slave, new master, etc.

The only thing I haven't tried is a shifter cable swap. Are yours in good shape?

Tom

PS: If you find the problem and fix it please post back. I've been fighting this for a year now and it's really annoying.

finally someone else knows how strange this...im pretty sure its my clutch pedal assembly ### theres alot of play alot...this is what im goin to do
1.new pedal assembly..if that doesnt fix it
2.new master to slave line, if that doesnt fix it
3.new fork and pivot ball, if that doesnt fix it
4.new master and slave 1 more time. if that doesnt fix it
5.mitsubishi dealer and they can fix it and if they cant fix it
6. sell my gsx give up the DSM game

ive been long and faithful to dsm since i was 15 but if i cant even get mitsubishi to fix there own car then im done..im sick of not being able to drive my dsm becasue of driveline issues...this is my 4th trans..i got tabs 6 months ago and drove the car 4 or 5 times so it sat for 6 months dam paper weight

 

[Artago]

finally someone else knows how strange this...im pretty sure its my clutch pedal assembly ### theres alot of play alot...this is what im goin to do
1.new pedal assembly..if that doesnt fix it
Mine is loose too but I don't think this is the problem. I'll try tightening everything up just in case.
2.new master to slave line, if that doesnt fix it
I was also thinking of doing this. I was also going to remove the clutch accumulator in case I got air trapped in it or in case it's leaking or cracked or not working right
3.new fork and pivot ball, if that doesnt fix it
Mine are both new, no fix
4.new master and slave 1 more time. if that doesnt fix it
Mine are new, no fix.
5.mitsubishi dealer and they can fix it and if they cant fix it
They don't know shit.
6. sell my gsx give up the DSM game
I'll buy it

ive been long and faithful to dsm since i was 15 but if i cant even get mitsubishi to fix there own car then im done..im sick of not being able to drive my dsm becasue of driveline issues...this is my 4th trans..i got tabs 6 months ago and drove the car 4 or 5 times so it sat for 6 months dam paper weight

Yeah that sucks. For the first 2 years my car sat on jack stands more often then it did on wheels. But it's getting better and I think I can get it to behave

 

[BoostedBeaver]

Throwing parts at a car is not going to fix it. I have given you the information to find the problem and yet you refuse to find the problem.

The dealer is going to blame all your problems on aftermarket parts.

Until you decide to help yourself....... Goodluck

 

[Artago]

Throwing parts at a car is not going to fix it. I have given you the information to find the problem and yet you refuse to find the problem.

The dealer is going to blame all your problems on aftermarket parts.

Until you decide to help yourself....... Goodluck

Agreed. My fork is dead center so it's ok. I'll check the pedal assembly.

 

[Blaze4G63]

Throwing parts at a car is not going to fix it. I have given you the information to find the problem and yet you refuse to find the problem.

The dealer is going to blame all your problems on aftermarket parts.

Until you decide to help yourself....... Goodluck

well what do u suggest i do ...ive done everything u told me the forck is in the middle i have new master and slave the flywheel was stepped correctly i adjusted the rod in the master and followed jacks video.....it has to be the clutch pedal assembly theres nothing else it could be?..beside the fork and ball....so if i replace the whole system which is only the pedal,master,slave,line and the ball and fork why would i have anymore problems??

new master check
new slave check
bled system check
adjusted master rod check
made sure no leaks check
fork in the middle of window check
master valve is open check

new pedal?
new master to slave line?
new fork and ball (but my fork is in the middle)

i think that is the whole system minus the shifter and cables but i never had a problem with them in the past....... so whats the deal?

 

[Artago]

One more thing.. the gear selector mechanism on the out side of the tranny. It has a rubber bushing, mine is worn out, check yours. Because it's worn there is a lot of play in that mechanism. Maybe shim it? Or replace it.

Let me know how yours looks like. Snap a few pics or something.

 

[Blaze4G63]

One more thing.. the gear selector mechanism on the out side of the tranny. It has a rubber bushing, mine is worn out, check yours. Because it's worn there is a lot of play in that mechanism. Maybe shim it? Or replace it.

Let me know how yours looks like. Snap a few pics or something.

can u show me a pic of what ## talking about i think i know what ## talking about the part where the cables are hooked up?

 

[livedsm4g63]

100% correct on a warn out pedal assembly problem. Your pedal should not move as it does in the video. Send it in to shep and get it done right. I have had the same problem not to long ago.

 

[Lofty]

How many times did you bleed the clutch system?

 

[livedsm4g63]

How many times did you bleed the clutch system?

He can probably bleed it as much as he wants to and nothing will come of it. There is to much freeplay in that pedal for his own good. Also it shouldnt matter how much pressure is in the system, the pedal should always return to its starting position from the return spring. If there is free play, something is either worn out or broke.
Have fun taking it out

 

[master jared]

sry to jump into your thead man but im having some trans troubles myself all gears are hard to get into gear fluid is full clutch is good and goes all the way out trans dosnet leak clutch pedal is goon adjustmant is good has never grinded going into gear and started sudenly just outta the blue pm me if any one has any feed back

 

[Blaze4G63]

He can probably bleed it as much as he wants to and nothing will come of it. There is to much freeplay in that pedal for his own good. Also it shouldnt matter how much pressure is in the system, the pedal should always return to its starting position from the return spring. If there is free play, something is either worn out or broke.
Have fun taking it out

oh i know i have my hands full but i WILL NOT GIVE UP ON MY DSM!!!!!!

 

[Blaze4G63]

the ASS embly is out and headed to shep ill keep u guys posted on the installation and if it fixes my problems.....it better fix it