Ignition timing

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Outer for sure. May be on the other lips too but I'd have to check.

 

[Calan]

Well I just saw a pic of one that has it on the inner lip... so I guess it varies between different manufacturers or years maybe.

If you ever replace it, go with Mitsu OEM only. I had a brand "new" one from O'Reilly's come apart in just 3k miles or so.

 

[gofer]

The very outer lip of the outer belt groove...towards the outside of the car (IIRC).

Unless someone else has made their own marks on it.

Outer for sure. May be on the other lips too but I'd have to check.

Its the middle lip... I promise.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Its the middle lip... I promise.

Makes sense.

I'll check when I get home and do it correctly!

;D Thanks again! Now my baby can run correctly!

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Its the middle lip... I promise.

In that case its on both lips because I set the timing on two 1gs in the past month and they both had it on the outer lip, I'm 100% sure.

**EDIT - I just got home and checked and sure enough the crank pulley has the timing marks on the outer and middle lips as seen here:

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[jlr2196]

In my opinion (along with most professional engine builders/tuners) the best method for setting your base timing is to use an adjustable timing light set to 5* then simply point the timing light at your cam gears, adjust the CAS until the cam gear timing marks line up with each other. This method is the most accurate method for setting your timing versus trying to look down into the lower area of the engine with your head cocked to one side while trying to line up marks on the balancer and the "molded" pointer on the factory plastic timing cover which can be inaccurate. You will also avoid any potential timing errors due to a spun balancer.

 

[gofer]

In that case its on both lips because I set the timing on two 1gs in the past month and they both had it on the outer lip, I'm 100% sure.

**EDIT - I just got home and checked and sure enough the crank pulley has the timing marks on the outer and middle lips as seen here:

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That would be the inner and the middle lip, correct me if I'm wrong but outer lip would be the furthest from the motor?

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

That would be the inner and the middle lip, correct me if I'm wrong but outer lip would be the furthest from the motor?

Oh crap you're right. I was so sure that it was the outer lip that I didn't even pay attention, I just took the picture. I just looked at two crank pulleys and there are 2 timing marks, one on the inner lip and the other on the middle lip. I stand corrected.

 

[Calan]

Yep... Gofer is right. Just checked my Fluidamper and a couple of old pics of stock dampers, and they are marked on the middle and inside lips.

I stand corrected... right next to DOHC.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

;P

I got home, found the notches (Yes, middle and closest to block) and timed the car. I also removed the wheel and pulled the plastic back so I could look at it dead-on. ;D No awkward angles for me!

Once I got it set, I killed the car, disconnected the ground, got the tire back on, lowered it, started it, and enjoyed. Car rans SO much better. It continued to miss for about 2 minutes and then smoothed out. It seems to accelerate better, has a bit better throttle response, and accepts boost soooo much better.

I almost facked up though. Apparently when we were tightening the CAS back down, we bumped the coolant cap over a notch... >__> Well... after a bit of driving I noticed my heat going up slowly. So I limped the car home. I lost about half a gallon of coolant. I added some more, started her up, she purred and cooled down. -shrug- She's tempermental like that.

One thing - She doesn't like mornings. It takes about 8 seconds of cranking to start, and then it hesitates until it starts heating up. Then again, there is a bit of lucas in the oil. I suppose the thickness of that puts a little resistance on the engine. But considering that it's hot as hell here, I figured I needed it. Once it warms up, or has been siting outside until about 10:00am, it never has that issue. Gotta change the oil now anyway. I actually ran over my 500 mile mark to the 600.

Anyway, thanks for the help guys! I got a simple issue fixed with a little common sense I seemed to be lacking. ;P

 

[rstchris]

In my opinion (along with most professional engine builders/tuners) the best method for setting your base timing is to use an adjustable timing light set to 5* then simply point the timing light at your cam gears, adjust the CAS until the cam gear timing marks line up with each other. This method is the most accurate method for setting your timing versus trying to look down into the lower area of the engine with your head cocked to one side while trying to line up marks on the balancer and the "molded" pointer on the factory plastic timing cover which can be inaccurate. You will also avoid any potential timing errors due to a spun balancer.

I like this method but my MAC adj. timing light is not perfectly accurate when you spin the dial. Try setting timing on a honda as they have higher base. Turn the dial to 15* and time the mark to TDC then turn the dial to 0* and see if the light hits on 15* chances are it won't cause the light is not perfect at calculating engine rpm. I always use the light @ 0*

 

[92_6bolt_1290]

If the CAS is 180 off then just for kicks and giggles try putting the timing light clamp on another plug wire to see which one might line up with the mark on the crank pulley(if any).
probably not the best advice but you have nothing to lose and only knowledge to gain

 

[Calan]

If the CAS is 180 off then just for kicks and giggles try putting the timing light clamp on another plug wire to see which one might line up with the mark on the crank pulley(if any).
probably not the best advice but you have nothing to lose and only knowledge to gain

This thread is resolved...and his problem wasn't the CAS.