Ignition problem

[seminoles2005]

Pretty sure I caused this problem after removing my coil pack from the dynatek arc-2 and connecting it the way it would be stock. When i did this the car would not spark and fuel would just flood the car. So i allowed the car to dry up and connected the dynatek back and still would only crank.

I then realized that the small black square which is either a condensor/capacitor which connects to the ground of the coil ignition on 1g's was removed for the dynatek and that the reason it wouldnt start the stock way was probably because this little box was removed so i re-installed the arc system but I still had no ignition so i think i may have blown something?


Installed a new coil ignition and got the car started barely, but it ran extremely rich and would not stay on because the car couldnt burn the excessive amount of fuel. I think the car wasnt running on all 4 cylinders.

Now a week after letting the car sit if i crank the car for a few seconds as soon as i let the key off from cranking the starter i will instantly get a scary backfire. I know the car is getting fuel its just that the car wont burn it when its suppose to. Not sure why it will spark after i quit cranking it only to ignite the fuel built up in the cylinders but i need to figure out why it wont spark to turn the car on.


I pulled out a haynes manual and tested two different coil packs primary and secondary resistance and both were in range. Even the one i tried to run with the arc dis connected so i possibly could have damaged something else.

I think its down to either my ecu, power transistor, or possibly the cas. So i removed my cas plug and cranked the car a couple of seconds and used my data logger to scan for any codes and it threw the cas code so i plugged it back in and the code went away so i know my ecu is reading that and the logger also read pulses from the injectors so i guess i can scratch the cas and ecu being bad. Also the ecu looks perfectly fine, no fishy smells or anything leaking.

Do you guys think a bad power transistor will prevent a car from sparking completely? I've tried using a 1.5v battery and testing the ohms resistance with my volt meter, which is really hard without multiple alligator clamps, but I do not feel like im doing it correctly because the manual doesn't tell me the correct number of ohms i am suppose to expect to get.

Sorry for the long write up but im trying to be as detailed as possible and to get my car back on the road after sitting for over a year.

 

[seminoles2005]

Tested my power transistor with a light indicator for shorts, not sure if its the recommended 12v light the test asks for but the 1.5v battery wouldnt turn it on but my cars battery did so i tested the transistor with it and both 1 and 4 and 2 and 4 coils worked just like the test should for a good power transistor.

Removed all 4 plug wires and spark plugs and put only 1 spark plug in cylinder 4 plug wire and let the plug rest on my strut bar. Had my friend crank the car with the fuel pumps disabled and the spark plug would barely spark, i had to get really close to it just to see the light.

Do you think a spark could be so weak that it couldnt ignite fuel?

I keep hearing this ticking sound as if its the sound you get when someone touches you and it shocks your arm. Its coming from the bottom of my intake i believe. Could large pte 1600cc injectors make this sound when they pulse? Whats a quick way to turn them off if possible or would i have to remove all 4 injector clips? Hopefully i dont have a short in my wires.

 

[turboglenn]

TO answer one of your questions, Yes, a spark can be too weak to light fuel, and some times they will even spark out in the open but not under compression.. Have you tried new plugs?

You've got me puzzled as to what could be wrong though, so my only suggestion is to get back in the haynes manual and start testing everything in the ignition circuit. How's the power wire to the ignitor and coils? IN good shape? Getting a good full 12 volts?

Also the way you're testing your coils can hurt them (not often but it can) what you want to do is put plugs in all the wires and hook the plugs "face to face" using zip ties or hose clamps like in the pic below

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[landrocket]

triple check your wiring with the dynatech module. could have two wires backwards.

 

[seminoles2005]

Finally got the car started. Something must of wiggled loose or something because after pulling half my electrical wiring harness out and checking for a short i was clueless so i installed everything back again and checked my spark for the 3rd time. With the dynatek hooked up all 4 plugs would spark but the spark looked very weak and i could barely notice the spark.

I removed and unplugged dynatek and installed the capacitor the 1g ignitions have but required to remove to use dynatek and tested my spark again. The spark looked a whole lot stronger so i decided to try and start the car. After a few cranks the car barely turned up. After a couple of seconds the car sounded solid enough that i wouldnt have to worry about it dying.

Decided to remove the capacitor and install dynatek again and see how it goes. Plugged in the dynatek harness and installed the fuse and started the car. Ran like complete crap. Threw a code so i pulled it, Code said it was a "bad ignition". Checked my wiring and everything seemed fine except the car ran like crap. Uninstalled dynatek again to run just the stock ignition and the car sounded and felt a whole lot better. Maybe i installed it wrong? I dont see how because its so simple but my car just does not want to run the system.