idle problem

[2gPtisack]

Ok so i just pulled these codes p0125 p0443 p1105 p0304 and eveytime i start my car it bounces arund on the idle and if i try and drive it right away it drives like poop it bogs really hard and when i come to a stop it will just turn off, but if i let it sit and idle for like 3 minutes it will rev up and then i can drive it just fine. i just dropped my exhaust and am running open o2 housing so i know its not my cat i was wondering if someone could tell me if one of those codes is the problem. BTW its just a stock 7 bolt

 

[92AWDHX40]

Terry's Talon Troubleshooting Tips #3 - Fast Idle (aka. Idle Surge)

start with this, and find out what the codes mean.

 

[2gPtisack]

i know what the codes mean i have been trying to figure out the problem for like 6 months and its not idling around 1200 its more like 750 850

 

[92AWDHX40]

It still sounds like idle surge, bouncy idle, could be isc, boost leak, vacuum lines, it varies.

 

[2gPtisack]

but it corrects itself after a few minutes of waiting and drives perfectly fine but once i turn it off and start it up again it does the same thing

 

[v-manracing]

had same issues.. make sure you zip tie all your vac line, check bypass valve for leaks and what i did to fix mine was replace the lower injector seals, that seam to fix my idle issues good luck

 

[2gPtisack]

had same issues.. make sure you zip tie all your vac line, check bypass valve for leaks and what i did to fix mine was replace the lower injector seals, that seam to fix my idle issues good luck

how were the injector seals causing the problem?

 

[92AWDHX40]

They can crack and cause vacuum leaks, overtime.

 

[2gPtisack]

Ok thanks but do you still think its the ISC even though it corrects after a few minutes of letting it idle

 

[Timechg]

Are you sure your MAS/MAF is still plugged in?

 

[2gPtisack]

yeah i even got a new maf

 

[BradM]

I dont think its a vacuum/boost leak, after a few minutes of idling terribly it revs to 1500 or so than drops back down to 750 and drives great like it should. Im pretty sure it has something to do with the coolant temp being insufficient for closed loop operation as that was one of the codes he pulled.
And I know this because its my friends car and Ive seen it in person.

 

[Timechg]

I dont think its a vacuum/boost leak, after a few minutes of idling terribly it revs to 1500 or so than drops back down to 750 and drives great like it should. Im pretty sure it has something to do with the coolant temp being insufficient for closed loop operation as that was one of the codes he pulled.
And I know this because its my friends car and Ive seen it in person.

That makes sense, if the coolant temp sensor is bad, it will be running rich on startup.

 

[2gPtisack]

Even though it does even if coolant temp is at operating temperature?

 

[2gPtisack]

I got a new coolant temp sensor and it stil didn't fix my problem

 

[EclipseOwner95]

check ## throttle body internal seals and stupid warming temp sensor inside it. my buddy had the same problem. also had a leak where the screw was to ajust idel. btw the cool temp sensor will only make the car hard to start not idel rough.

Not true, a non functioning coolant temp sensor will cause hard starts and rough idle among a few other things. When the sensor fails or is disconnected, it defaults to a very low temperature, causing a rich condition at start, idle, cruise and WOT as the ECU thinks the engine is cold no matter what the actual temperature of the car is.

 

[Aphix]

The reason you are seeing a higher idle at a start is because the engine sets the idle to a higher setting and will slowly ramp it down as it warms up. There's actually eight individual coolant temperatures that adjust idle speed now that I'm looking in ECUflash here. Anyways, your first step should be to pull the idle speed control valve and check resistance across the terminals, this step motor wont throw a CEL and will still run even if it's partially defective. To do that refer to the link in the first post.

 

[ffemt546]

My car was doing the same thing i checked the codes with a newer obdII tested so it told me the code in words not numbers, but mine was the MAP sensor. my rev limiter was acting up too and it fixed both problems

 

[raybugarin82]

also try checking your ecu. i got idle problems too before.... replaced isc throttle body gaskets.. then one day it wont even start.... found out that my ecu was faulty... never had isle problems ever since....

 

[2gPtisack]

I put my friends ecmlink v3 ecu in my car once a little while ago and it still had the same problem replacing the ecu didnt do the trick.

 

[JwpRider]

I have found some autoparts stores selling the wrong CTS. Measeure the value to make sure it is correct. Also make sure the plug wiring is OK. If you measure at the ECU, you can be sure the wiring is OK. Should be 2200-2500 ohms at 70F, about 300 ohms at 180F...

If it is the incorrect CTS, this would explain why when your car is warmed up..all is well...