ECMlink Idle Issues

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

What's going on guys So I just upgraded to V3 and It idled ok for like 2 minuets and then just died. Started again and just dies. Also, when it goes into this condition it takes FOREVER to crank, we're talking 4-6 seconds. So I loaded my V2 tune as closely as possible and it helped but it seems like its fighting to get into CL mode and it still dies. Also, since V2 I've had an issue with the O2 not cycling at idle only. Does fine at cruise but is real lazy at idle. It seems to just want to go lean and die when idling but on throttle seems fine. Driving around its fine but between shifts it tries to die as well. Note it would still idle fine on V2.

Any ideas on where to start? Trying to go get a log

 

[Vegas Smith]

So the only variable you changed was a dsmlink upgrade?

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

So the only variable you changed was a dsmlink upgrade?

Correct and it sat for a couple weeks. Note it wouldn't cycle even on V2 but it dies now. I Bandaided it with some tuning but still it does it sometimes.. log.2016.10.31-01.elg Is a long as log of just idle and cruise stuff before I messed with the tune much. log.2016.10.31-05.elg Is what is happening when it dies.

 

[Vegas Smith]

The only thing I noticed is your idle position switch isn't 1 at idle.

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

The only thing I noticed is your idle position switch isn't 1 at idle.

The Idle switch is on. Is that a different switch you're talking about? Its not wanting to get into closed loop.

 

[Vegas Smith]

If I recall, it should be 1 at idle or when car is off and zero when you get on the throttle. I don't know if that would solve your problem but it's something to look into. Maybe you had your foot on the gas when starting the car and I didn't notice? I'm at work so I cant view logs right now.

 

[boostdawd]

Try to see if it idles better if u ground the diagnostic pin and/or lock timing in ecmlink.

 

[boostdawd]

Also, didn't notice if you have a wideband and simulating narrowband or if your still on the stock O2 sensor but check the wiring. Heat destroys wires.

 

[ob1murry]

since V2 I've had an issue with the O2 not cycling at idle only. Does fine at cruise but is real lazy at idle. It seems to just want to go lean and die when idling but on throttle seems fine. Driving around its fine but between shifts it tries to die as well. Note it would still idle fine on V2.

Any ideas on where to start? Trying to go get a log

I had very similar issues recently, that I kept bugging Brett (@GST with PSI ) with. He kept bitching about my TPS adjustments, and I kept ignoring him saying that it was fine, because I already adjusted in via the adjustment tool. I kept assuming it must have been an O2 issue, as it simply would not cycle at idle, but was fine when driving around and actually getting throttle. Eventually, I just gave in, zeroed the adjustment in link, and manually adjusted the TPS sensor, and suddenly, all of my problems went away, and I had to go crawling back and apologize to him.

https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/fueltrimupdatepoints

If your O2 is not cycling correctly at idle, you're never going to make it into Closed Loop:

"The O2 sensor did not switch around 0.5v for over 20 seconds while running in closed loop mode. In that case, the ECU locks itself in open loop mode."

I'm at work and can't look at the logs right now, but given the talk about your idle switch not operating correctly, this is certainly where I'd suggest you start looking. I'd adjust the TPS sensor and the idle switch, or else just adjust the TPS and then simulate the idle switch from the TPS, and see what happens.

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

If I recall, it should be 1 at idle or when car is off and zero when you get on the throttle. I don't know if that would solve your problem but it's something to look into. Maybe you had your foot on the gas when starting the car and I didn't notice? I'm at work so I cant view logs right now.

Thasts all correct and what its doing.

Try to see if it idles better if u ground the diagnostic pin and/or lock timing in ecmlink.

I'll try that

Also, didn't notice if you have a wideband and simulating narrowband or if your still on the stock O2 sensor but check the wiring. Heat destroys wires.

Does it with sim on or off doesnt matter.

I had very similar issues recently, that I kept bugging Brett (@GST with PSI ) with. He kept bitching about my TPS adjustments, and I kept ignoring him saying that it was fine, because I already adjusted in via the adjustment tool. I kept assuming it must have been an O2 issue, as it simply would not cycle at idle, but was fine when driving around and actually getting throttle. Eventually, I just gave in, zeroed the adjustment in link, and manually adjusted the TPS sensor, and suddenly, all of my problems went away, and I had to go crawling back and apologize to him.

https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/fueltrimupdatepoints

If your O2 is not cycling correctly at idle, you're never going to make it into Closed Loop:

"The O2 sensor did not switch around 0.5v for over 20 seconds while running in closed loop mode. In that case, the ECU locks itself in open loop mode."

I'm at work and can't look at the logs right now, but given the talk about your idle switch not operating correctly, this is certainly where I'd suggest you start looking. I'd adjust the TPS sensor and the idle switch, or else just adjust the TPS and then simulate the idle switch from the TPS, and see what happens.

Idle switch is functioning properly and I adjusted the TPS manually as well, BUT there is some play if you wiggle it by hand otherwise voltage stays consistent.

 

[Vegas Smith]

Hmm, it seems like the base tps voltage is changing quite frequently. I would try and fool around with adjusting your BISS. I know I had issues last week where the car would die quickly because the BISS was turned in too much but I'm also having other isc/ecu issues which add to the problem.

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

Hmm, it seems like the base tps voltage is changing quite frequently. I would try and fool around with adjusting your BISS. I know I had issues last week where the car would die quickly because the BISS was turned in too much but I'm also having other isc/ecu issues which add to the problem.

It now only does it SOMETIMES.......... Greaaaaaaaat. One light it'll idle perfect the next it dies. I'll give it a shot

 

[Vegas Smith]

I'd start from the beginning and set your idle position switch perfectly, set your tps through link perfectly with 0.63 volts at idle then set your idle/BISS and isc position to 30. I'm working on all this stuff right now with the new car and I've come to find out my ecu drivers are bad after all those procedures.

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

I'd start from the beginning and set your idle position switch perfectly, set your tps through link perfectly with 0.63 volts at idle then set your idle/BISS and isc position to 30. I'm working on all this stuff right now with the new car and I've come to find out my ecu drivers are bad after all those procedures.

TPS is simulating it because the switch is broken. ECMTuning tested My ECU and said it all good.

 

[blktalon3]

do you have anything running off your fps solenoid? meth, nitrous, etc..

One thing I noticed is you have the "disable maf comp w/sd operation" box checked under the maf comp tab. I've never ran a maf so I don't know, but it might be ignoring your maf comp table and trying to run of the sd table. Just a suggestion you might try.

 

[miliman13]

my observation is, your ignition timing seems high even when your RPMS are low, maybe its because the car is not warmed up.

Your setting ; since you are using MAF and not SD you don't need to check the "disable Airflow smoothing"
You also have enable narrow band; Do you not have a Front O2 ?

And you probably don't need to check enable hot start enrichment.

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

do you have anything running off your fps solenoid? meth, nitrous, etc..

One thing I noticed is you have the "disable maf comp w/sd operation" box checked under the maf comp tab. I've never ran a maf so I don't know, but it might be ignoring your maf comp table and trying to run of the sd table. Just a suggestion you might try.

No in fact, it might have been deleted. No idea where to look for it though. What exactly does it do anyways, I could never find an answer. I'll give that a shot.

my observation is, your ignition timing seems high even when your RPMS are low, maybe its because the car is not warmed up.

Your setting ; since you are using MAF and not SD you don't need to check the "disable Airflow smoothing"
You also have enable narrow band; Do you not have a Front O2 ?

And you probably don't need to check enable hot start enrichment.

Car does it at any temp. Only time it has never done it is first startup of the day. Its wanting to go way lean when it gets this dying condition, otherwise it idles right at 14.7 nice and smooth. Its not wanting to go into closed loop when its dying. I have a front O2 and the WB is in the down pipe right around the head of the t-case area. I'll try de-checking those options too

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

Ok de-checking the boxes didn't seem to do anything. I checked the O2 heater by having the key on but engine off and it heated up to about 120* in about 2 minutes.

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

Ok I think it was a combo of a boost leak and a bad alternator