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1G I need some clutch pedal assembly help

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turtleb00st

10+ Year Contributor
108
32
Jun 18, 2012
orlando, Florida
I’m looking for somebody who is well versed on rebuilding, and properly welding a 1g clutch assembly.

I bought my car in 2001….soon after an act 2600 killed the assembly. I got a spare one, and rebuild it without a weld, that lasted a few years, but now it’s got wear as well

I just recently purchased one from somebody, but it turns out the assembly was welded in the wrong position and the pedal has about 10mm less travel. Luckily I measured everything before install

I know dsm’ers who have had issues with welded ones due to improper methods used. This is why I’m looking for an “expert”

Iv had enough dealing with these things 😂. Is there any OG very experienced person who still rebuilds these? Should I email jnz and see if they can do me a solid? Any help would be appreciated
 
One person you could talk to would be @Brando_DSM. He used to make bronze bushings for the shaft.
I PMed him a couple years ago for a good pic of the final welded result, and I posted that pic in post #25 here:
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/q...y-clutch-disengagement.532845/#post-153791840
In that post is a link to a thread he had made a couple years earlier with other pics.
You might have to PM him, and I don't know if he is interested in doing assemblies for people.
 
One person you could talk to would be @Brando_DSM. He used to make bronze bushings for the shaft.
I PMed him a couple years ago for a good pic of the final welded result, and I posted that pic in post #25 here:
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/q...y-clutch-disengagement.532845/#post-153791840
In that post is a link to a thread he had made a couple years earlier with other pics.
You might have to PM him, and I don't know if he is interested in doing assemblies for people.
Very much appreciate it. Beautiful weld compared to the chicken poopy and non penetrating stuff I see on these assemblies 90% of the time.
 
The steel rod end and lever are fairly beefy, so a good weld should be obtainable from someone who knows what they’re doing. Just remember that pushing the pedal makes the rod want to rotate counterclockwise when viewed from the lever end, so try to force it as much clockwise as possible before the first arc.
 
I appreciate the mention @We're on Boost! Unfortunately I've been out the DSM game for a couple years, and no longer have the capability to manufacture the bushings. @turtleb00st got your message, best of luck in your endeavors

Just a thought: you could take an angle grinder to the welds to break it back apart, and then have it redone. You could also freeze the joint and try to crack the welds. Again just some ideas
 
Just a thought: you could take an angle grinder to the welds to break it back apart, and then have it redone. You could also freeze the joint and try to crack the welds. Again just some ideas
I have 2 spare ones that are un welded I was planing on using. I’m planing on sending the bad assembly I just got back to the seller, just waiting to discuss it all.

I really appreciate the info to all.

I build my motors, I built a transmission, I tune my cars my self…… but somethings are better left to an expert. Clutch engagement issues when trying to bang gears at 8500+ are a real buzz kill and I do not want to go auto.
 
I have 2 spare ones that are un welded I was planing on using. I’m planing on sending the bad assembly I just got back to the seller, just waiting to discuss it all.

I really appreciate the info to all.

I build my motors, I built a transmission, I tune my cars my self…… but somethings are better left to an expert. Clutch engagement issues when trying to bang gears at 8500+ are a real buzz kill and I do not want to go auto.
The 1GB I put the aforementioned clutch assembly in (my profile pic) had a laundry list of clutch engagement issues, I essentially had no pedal. I had to do a lot of things to finally resolve the engagement issues such as the modified clutch assembly, new master, new slave, new fork, and shimmed the pivot ball. Funny enough, shimming the pivot ball and adjusting the clutch pedal rod were my last resorts and both together solved it even though those were two things you theoretically should never have to touch. To this day, I will never know why that clutch system was such a headache.
 
JNZ has the bushing listed for $24. I imagine other vendors have them as well. You’ll need one of those.
I don’t return any spare parts, even when they’re not quite what I had hoped, because they can turn out to be much better than nothing (if, for instance, your original one is already too damaged from failed welding). Just saying…
 
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This lever with the hollowed out hole in the middle has a plastic bushing in it from the factory that disintegrates over time, that hole is where all my slop came from, I could move the clutch pedal about 2” before any movement in the master rod. I installed this bronze insert to replace it which cured the slop, I’ve got instant engagement of the rod now as soon as I press the pedal

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That plastic bushing is the one at the end of the assembly most replace with the bronze bushing(which I did) and weld, however I didn’t weld the nut at that end because I had no play there, as you can see in the pic the factory plastic 30 year old bushing was in excellent shape, welding that nut would’ve done nothing..
 

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Appreciate the and pics lads. Highly appreciated. Gonna check mine out a bit and see… but I’m still open to having somebody do it if anybody is out there 🤡.

After migrating to Facebook wirh all the other zoomers, I forgot how great the feel and format of a forum is.

The 1GB I put the aforementioned clutch assembly in (my profile pic) had a laundry list of clutch engagement issues, I essentially had no pedal. I had to do a lot of things to finally resolve the engagement issues such as the modified clutch assembly, new master, new slave, new fork, and shimmed the pivot ball. Funny enough, shimming the pivot ball and adjusting the clutch pedal rod were my last resorts and both together solved it even though those were two things you theoretically should never have to touch. To this day, I will never know why that clutch system was such a headache.
Iv had my dsm since 2001 you don’t have to tell me 😬. Iv dealt with these issues sporadically. Currently I have a mixture of a very slightly worn assembly + old hydrolics. I’m doing a semi restoration on the car now that I have time so everything will be replaced… and hopefully I can get a 9 out of the car. To be 100% honest, I think acts, specifically the 2600 pressure plate is a flawed design. That’s what we all were running during the 2000’s.

The car was last “built” over 10 years ago so Iv spend some hours cleaning up nonsense I did back then.

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Iv had my dsm since 2001 you don’t have to tell me 😬. Iv dealt with these issues sporadically. Currently I have a mixture of a very slightly worn assembly + old hydrolics. I’m doing a semi restoration on the car now that I have time so everything will be replaced… and hopefully I can get a 9 out of the car. To be 100% honest, I think acts, specifically the 2600 pressure plate is a flawed design. That’s what we all were running during the 2000’s.

The car was last “built” over 10 years ago so Iv spend some hours cleaning up nonsense I did back then.

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This car seems familiar. Are you the bro that I got my seats from? Lol.
 
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