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ECMlink I can not reach 4000 RPM

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sakroda

Proven Member
216
33
May 3, 2016
İstanbul, Europe
Hello friends, I'm writing to you from Turkey. There are only 10 of these cars in our country. I've spent a lot of money on this vehicle with great persistence. I finally got ECMLink, but I'm experiencing some issues. My car can’t go over 4000 RPM and I’m getting a check engine warning. The AFR suddenly drops to 9.9. Previously, I had an EVO 8 ECU. Now I’m using ECMLink and facing the same issue.


My car currently has original EVO 8 injectors (which I'm suspicious of). I bought them from an American seller, but everything I received from him turned out to be faulty. There were no issues with the original 450cc injectors. If necessary, I’ll reinstall the 450cc ones. The car is currently running an SD setup. There are no error codes, and I don’t have a major boost/vacuum leak either. I'm using a 255 Walbro fuel pump. I’m also uploading the most recent log I recorded.


Thank you very much in advance!
 

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I don't see a wideband gauge in there nor is AFRatioEst being logged. Please log AFRatioEst and if you have a wideband air fuel ratio gauge please assign it to a pin and log it as well then do another log and post.
 
I will learn how to connect it to ecmlink my AFR brand is zeitronix afr zt-2 and i will let you know sir..thanks for response
 
Hello, today I want to talk about a problem I’ve been dealing with for 1 year. I installed an Evo 8 setup on my car. For this, I bought an Evo 8 ECU, 560cc injectors, a Walbro 255 fuel pump, and an Evo 8 MAF. However, my car would not accelerate at all around 3200–3500 RPM.

Because of this, I purchased ECMLink. This time I installed a GM 3-bar MAP sensor instead of the MAF and adjusted the settings through ECMLink. But I didn’t do anything regarding tuning. Honestly, it remained on the stock map. I enabled the MAP sensor and speed density settings, but I didn’t perform any actual tuning.

I set the AFPR value to 43 psi. But I had the same issue with this setup as well. My car simply will not go past 3000 RPM.

Later, I bought a wideband—Zetronix brand. Whenever the car hits 3000 RPM, my AFR reading shows 10 or 9.9, and the car won’t move.

Please help me… What could be the problem with my car?
 
Hello, today I want to talk about a problem I’ve been dealing with for 1 year. I installed an Evo 8 setup on my car. For this, I bought an Evo 8 ECU, 560cc injectors, a Walbro 255 fuel pump, and an Evo 8 MAF. However, my car would not accelerate at all around 3200–3500 RPM.

Because of this, I purchased ECMLink. This time I installed a GM 3-bar MAP sensor instead of the MAF and adjusted the settings through ECMLink. But I didn’t do anything regarding tuning. Honestly, it remained on the stock map. I enabled the MAP sensor and speed density settings, but I didn’t perform any actual tuning.

I set the AFPR value to 43 psi. But I had the same issue with this setup as well. My car simply will not go past 3000 RPM.

Later, I bought a wideband—Zetronix brand. Whenever the car hits 3000 RPM, my AFR reading shows 10 or 9.9, and the car won’t move.

Please help me… What could be the problem with my car?
Are you saying you got another ecu with ecmlink and putbit in the car? Did you set it up for 550 injectors? Tell us what is in the car please.
 
Same car, same issue, different ECU, Speed Density and now have wideband hooked up?

You should post a fresh log.
 
I’ve brought up this issue in different threads, but since I couldn’t find a solution there, I felt the need to open a topic on the ECMLINK issue. I shared the log file in some places, but I’m honestly about to lose my mind. I have absolutely no idea why the car won’t go past 3000 RPM. I did a leak test. I did a smoke test. Unfortunately, nothing. The strange thing is that it’s the same with the Evo 8 ECU. It’s the same on this one too, but with my previous setup, there were no problems at all. So is there an issue with the mapping here? Is there something I’m supposed to do? I really don’t understand. I’m going to be crazy..my brand new ecmlink is broken?

You should post a fresh log.
i could not due to my job but i will do tomorrow and i will share here. when i press the gas pedal then it s stalling why it s doing that?
 
i could not due to my job but i will do tomorrow and i will share here. when i press the gas pedal then it s stalling why it s doing that?
Hard to say, but looking at your last log, your TPS is 0.55v when it should be 0.63v. Not sure how far out of spec starts to cause issues, but it would probably be on of the first things Id look at since it is easy to either adjusting manually or by using the TPS adjustment controls in the RPM/TPS tab of ecmlink... Not magically going to fix anything/everything, but still needs to be done regardless

Otherwise, I would
1. make sure my vehicle profile is up to date so everyone know what kind of car and mods to consider
2. make sure all boost leaks have been taken care of before messing with any other tuning settings.
3. run a new log and post it.
 
Last edited:
I went back through some threads. You have ecmlink now but is this a 2g or 1g ecu? You previously stated you had an evo8 ecu. What do you have?
We are aware you have a 1990 car/sensors etc.
i have 1990 eagle talon with 91 ecu now. i did 6/14 pin swap also. 255 wallbro, 560cc evo 8 injectors, gm 3 bar map sensor. AEm AFPR at 43 psi. idle is fine. i will upload videos of my car. You can see my effort on my instagram account “dsmturkey”

Hard to say, but looking at your last log, your TPS is 0.55v when it should be 0.63v. Not sure how far out of spec starts to cause issues, but it would probably be on of the first things Id look at since it is easy to either adjusting manually or byusing the TPS adjustment controls in the RPM/TPS tab... Not magically going to fix anything but still needs to be done regardless

Otherwise, I would
1. make sure my vehicle profile is up to date so everyone know what kind of car and mods to consider
2. make sure all boost leaks have been taken care of before messing with any other tuning settings.
3. run a new log and post it.
i can do that it s not problem but as you said is it big deal for this difference?today i gave smoke from intake brake booster inside so i put a glove in frimt of turbo air inlet hose and it kept my breath so there was no leak
 
i can do that it s not problem but as you said is it big deal for this difference?today i gave smoke from intake brake booster inside so i put a glove in frimt of turbo air inlet hose and it kept my breath so there was no leak
a smoke test is inadequate to check for boost leaks. We gave you instructions in one of your other threads. This continuing to point to something not ecu related. You have multiple threads with multiple suggestions. I never did see that you did a proper boost leak test. Did you or did you not pressurize for a boost leak test? If you did not I would make this your first order of business.
 
Guys I am just wondering about GM map sensor intake hose. Which hose line will be great for map sensor? From intake side( to the brake booster line). I connected to fuel pressure line. it s small than intake side. Am i wrong about hose line?
 
Hello guys,
I couldn’t connect the ZT2 wideband to pin 15 (EGT), which is why I couldn’t provide an ECMLink log. But I want to share some information about my car. I’m really confused about pins 6 and 14. @steve wrote that on a 1990 harness pin 6 is green and pin 14 is green/white, but as you can see, pin 1 on my MAF sensor is green/white even though this harness is from a 1990.
I bought this set from this seller..

I hope you can help me with all these issues. I won’t give up with your support.
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Pin 1 (MAF Reset) on the MAF connector should be green/white just like yours is and according to the 90 FSM that should go to pin 14 on a 90 ECU. The Idle Position Switch wire is green and runs to pin 6 on a 90 ECU. If you have a 91+ ECU those signals changed locations so the MAF Reset signal, still a Green/White wire, runs to pin 6 on the 91+ ECU and the IPS Green wire runs to pin 14 on the 91+ ECU.

This is exactly what I've been saying. I'm not sure what part of it you're not getting. It's not the color of the wires running to the sensors that changed but where those wires run to at the ECU. Between 90 and 91 the ECU pins changed and anytime you mix the two you have to correct for it.

Here's the 90 FSM diagram.

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Last edited:
I don't see a wideband gauge in there nor is AFRatioEst being logged. Please log AFRatioEst and if you have a wideband air fuel ratio gauge please assign it to a pin and log it as well then do another log and post.

Finally i got WB info's please have a check again..
 

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I don't see anything super weird in here. What exactly is happening around 4000rpm while you're driving? The log shows you got to 4100rpm one time and then you came out of the throttle.
i came out of the throttle because i don t wanted damage to my talon that s why i did it like that. if you say that i really doubt about my car. i had maf system it was one when mever i swapped to SD it happened to me. i did smoke test there is no leak but i could not test the boost leak because i can not hold the air in engine it realase from somewhere. it goes flawless until to 4000 rpm then i see 9.8 afr snd car is not going even WOT.
 
Your AFR's are doing pretty spot on. Your target AFR at 4000rpm is 10-10.2 which describes what you're seeing. I'm not sure what kind of fuel you're running but you shouldn't be concerned with the 9.8. Traditionally that is quite right but perhaps that's needed based on the fuel you're running.
 
i dont want to stuck at this issue i want a cure really i need it. what s the other options if everything is fine?
 
I don't understand what the issue is?

You said you backed off the throttle because you saw AFR 9.8 but according to your log, 9.8 is what you should be seeing.

Again I will ask, what fuel are you using?
 
The wideband is going blind (flat line) over 10.4. AFR - Its probably richer than what it is reporting. Might want to figure that out.

The timing table for a stock 1G is aggressive. Are you running 1G pistons?
 
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