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hybrid 4g64 / 4g63 head timing confirmation

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cavyracer666

15+ Year Contributor
39
0
May 7, 2008
chesapeake, Virginia
just want some confirmation on how these timing marks are lining up on my 2.2 4g63/4g64 hybrid with adjustable aem 4g63 timing gears. if I read and looked at pics correctly the exhaust cam should be advanced 1 tooth correct. I was also wondering why exactly this is done and since I have adjustable cam gears should I just adjust the exhaust cam so it is more in time. Thanx

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no the original timing mark on the adjustable cam gear did not come out well on the picture so I highlighted it with a sharpie . from other research I did on here the exhaust cam is supposed to be advanced one tooth when using the 4g64 block with the 4g63 head but I am not sure why and wanted some one to explain why and confirm that I have it right.
 
Do you have the cam card?
Degree the cams to the specs on the card.

You will probably need to adjust the sprockets, but for simplicity's sake you should keep the timing marks correctly lined up. I can't tell you how many degrees you'll need to move the sprockets. Your block and head could both have been resurfaced, your cams might be off more than usual, blah blah blah. There's no "fast and dirty" answer if you plan on doing it the right way.
 
so basically the length between the crank and cams is what is determining where the timing marks need to be. I need to degree them properly according to the timing card because variances in how much has been removed from the block and head change this by slight amounts but because I have adjustable timing gears I can get them almost if not perfectly timed then remark the 0 point and if I wanted to adjust it later I would just go from the new point rather than the original 0 point. Right?
 
Best way is to use two tensioner pulleys. Replace the idler pulley with a tensioner pulley. Line the cams gear up to tdc like a 2l setup. Lock timing the belt to the cams gears using zip ties. Put the crank to tdc for number one cylinder. Tension the belt on the old idler pulley side first. Then do the tension on the hydraulic tension side. You can use a standard 2.0 timing belt this way. Plus the car will idle perfect this way. You can degree your cams from this point if you like but you might better off leaving it alone.
 
Cómo lo hizo, yo estoy también con los punto






Simplemente alinearía las marcas como lo haría en el 2.0, y usaría engranajes de leva ajustables cuando lo haga, luego graduaría sus levas después de que sus engranajes de leva estén instalados con las marcas alineadas, usando los engranajes de leva ajustables para graduar ellos.
 
Simplemente alinearía las marcas como lo haría en el 2.0, y usaría engranajes de leva ajustables cuando lo haga, luego graduaría sus levas después de que sus engranajes de leva estén instalados con las marcas alineadas, usando los engranajes de leva ajustables para graduar ellos.
y en caso And in case you want to use the 2.0 oem pulleys, how would it be? could someone tell me or some diagram
 
y en caso And in case you want to use the 2.0 oem pulleys, how would it be? could someone tell me or some diagram
In that case you can use two of the tensioner style pulleys instead of a tensioner pulley and idler pulley like stock, line your cam marks up, line your crankshaft mark and balancer marks up if you have balance shafts, clamp the lock the belt to the stock cam gears with zip ties to temporarily hold them, put the belt on the crankshaft and around the two tensioner pulleys, then tension the tensioner pulley on the firewall side with slight tension and then set the rest of the tension in the normal way.
 
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