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How to Prime a Turbo

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Zmann42087

15+ Year Contributor
840
21
May 9, 2005
Portland, Oregon
I'm just finishing up my FP Big-28 install today. However, I'm wondering how you prime a turbo. I know what it entails... it allows oil pressure to lubricate the turbo's bearings before the initial start-up. But I guess I just don't know what the procedure is.

I've heard you pull the Muli-Port Injection (MPI) fuse to disable the spark and fuel. Is that correct? If so, where is the MPI fuse located? I can't seem to find it on the fuse box. After that is taken care of, what is the cranking procedure? How many times to I turn the motor over and at what intervals? Thanks in advance guys.
 
I know on my car it's in the fuse box near the battery. It may be the same for yours not sure. There are three fuses in mine, Ignition, MPI, and one other I forget. As for priming the turbo I'm not sure but hopefully your fuse is in the same spot.
 
On the 1G cars the mpi is by the battery. I have no idea about the 2G cars but if you have the fuel pump rewired you can just pull the fuse out to the pump.
 
When I did it recently I just unplugged the coil pack plug and cranked it for 10-15 second intervals 3 times.
 
Nope, just the spark. Worked fine. Any of these ways will work, it was just easiest for me to pop off the plug and start cranking.
 
On a 2g the fuse is called the "Engine" or "Motor" (I forgot, but it's a big one on the top row near the center). It is also a good idea to disable the ignition either through unplugging the coil pack or unplugging the sensor between the back of the upper timing belt cover and the firewall (crank angle sensor? I forget).
 
I've always just pulled the enigne fuse (like mentioned above). Personally I turn it over for about 10 seconds at a time (don't want to burn the starter out) wait 10 or so seconds & repeat. Do this 4 or 5 times and you should be good to go.
 
I always leave the feed line open until I'm ready to turn on the car and inject some oil directly into the CHRA before starting the car.
 
I disconnect the fuel pump connector in the trunk and unplug the transistor for the coil pack. This remove fuel and spark. I then remove the spark plugs so I have no compression, making it easier on the starter. I turn over for about 30 sec x 2.

With no compression the starter spins the motor alot easier and builds slightly more pressure on the 30 second runs.
 
Pull the plug to the CAS (crank and cam if you still have the 7bolt) and you no longer have spark or fuel.

Ding.. ding.. ding..

On 2g's disconnecting the crank angle sensor stops spark and fuel. The only thing is that you either must reset the ecu or use DSMlink to clear the fault code. Not a big deal.

I use the same thing for compression testing.
 
Ding.. ding.. ding..

On 2g's disconnecting the crank angle sensor stops spark and fuel. The only thing is that you either must reset the ecu or use DSMlink to clear the fault code. Not a big deal.

I use the same thing for compression testing.

Yup that's what the manual says for compression testing.
 
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